USS Constitution by xken - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76.8

[xken]

Greg, had a great time with them and if I had known how much fun grand kids were I would have had them first. I have purchased a ticket for a two hour cruise on Sunday>

[xken]

A lesson learned from the Niagara build was to do the rabbet cut on the center section prior to adding the keel parts. I carefully marked the cut to lines and then proceeded to cut and sand both sides. I also cut,tapered and sanded the bow keel part before gluing to the center section. The only minor mismatch was at the bow end.

Here is a close up of the rabbet cut once the keel was added.

Next I moved onto the bulkheads and I started in the center and moved fore and aft sanding the slots in the center section and bulkheads to achieve a snug press fit. TIP: Once the bulkheads were removed from their carrier I hardened the thin top sides with CA because they break off very easy. 

Once all bulkheads were in place I marked the area needed to be removed for the gundeck planking and the center support. I used a jeweler's saw to remove the needed material.

Here is a before and after showing the difference.

Here the difference can be seen with the bulkheads in place.

Now back to finishing up the rest of the bulkheads and then trimming the center section.

[GLakie]

Nice job Ken! This is essentially the exact same method I intend to follow. Building the gun deck and using "complete" cannon and carriages on the gun deck. Very nice. 

[xken]

Spent the afternoon on a two hour cruise on the Lady Washington. I now have a much better understanding of the dynamics of the rigging having seen the crew set sails, work them and then stow them. I took 147 photos of details of everything; enough to scratch build if I choose to. The cruise was fantastic once we cleared the harbor and got into the open sea with 8-12 swells. Loved watching the bow rise and fall and the ship roll; at one point almost at a 45 degree angle. I was on the rear quarter deck near the tiller and had a great chat with the captain and listen to him call out maneuvers for the crew.

This ship is rigged very much like the Niagara and as I looked around recognized most everything. This ship was the fast British ship in the movie "Pirates of the Caribbean". This was just a great personal learning experience.

Here she is heading out of the harbor at Morro Bay. 

[GLakie]

Looks like a fun trip Ken. Thanks for sharing. 

[xken]

In checking around I saw the need for replacing the center sections of the beams in the area of main hatch where the pinnace will rest. I am thinking that if possible this area will be able to be lifted to see the gundeck. I did not wish to cutaway the plywood beams and loose strength and geometry so I fell back on a technique from my airplane building days of delaminating plywood. The kit plywood is a three layer lamination. 

First I marked off on the two sides the length from the centerline that will be seen when hatch area is removed. Then I cut a vertical cut at each end to the depth of the first layer on one side.

Next I cut a notch back to the vertical cuts and by carefully twisting the blade removed the first layer material on the side at each end.

Then carefully inserting the blade and cut away the first layer of plywood. Once cut away the area was sanded smooth and level.

I then glued a 1/16" thick basswood strip into the gap and let set.

Once both sides were laminated with basswood strips and the glue completely set I used a small plane to remove excess material down to the plywood surface. Then finish sanded the surfaces.

Next the top of the beam was notched down 1/32" using a #11 xacto blade carefully maintaining the arc of the beam. Once cut a basswood strip was glued in place. When the glue was completely set the excess material on the edges was planed away and sanded smooth.

Here is a basswood claded center section of the beam ready for staining.

This process went fairly quickly since there was a continuous operation of working six bulwarks. Next to look to see what else can be done before gluing the bulwarks in place.

 

 

 

 

[usedtosail]

Nice technique for the deck beams, Ken.

[xken]

Tom, thanks this technique comes in handy at times. I have a question for you. In looking at your build it appears that in the center opening that the kit beams do not align with the beams you have installed or the openings for the grate frames; I am assuming that you referenced the book for accuracy and that your layout is correct versus the kit deck beams? I really would appreciate your feed back and if possible the dimensions of what the beams should be. Thank you in advance.

Ken

[usedtosail]

Ken, I think to make it easier on myself, most of the beams are at the same positions as the kit bulkheads. I cut them off the bulkheads but left stubs so I could attach the new beams to these stubs. Since I made the main hatch bigger than it is today, based on what I read about the 1812 version, I had to add a beam at each end of the hatch to support the hatch coaming. I got the dimension of the main hatch from the AOS Constitution book. I wouldn't say this is right but it worked for me. I also am not adding the grating over the  main hatch because I read it was probably open in the 1812 era.

[xken]

Tom, thanks for the feed back! Also is it worth it to purchase the book you have? I see it is available from amazon for about $30.

[xken]

My first "What the heck" major mismatch of laser cut parts. Not sure how this setup could miss so bad but will start to fix. I hope this is the only one; but I am always the optimist.

 

I will break and adjust the two outboard corners since they will be covered with planking. The thinner center ones can be brought into alignment with planking.

 

 

[HIPEXEC]

Welcome to the mis-cut club. It seems every kit has these problems. It improves your problem solving skills (after you fill the air with profanity!)

[usedtosail]

Ken, I remember having to fiddle with those corner pieces to get them to fit right. As for the AOS book, there has been a lot of criticism about it, so I am not using it too much. It may only suggest what the Constitution may have been like or it may describe a generic frigate, as I saw in one review. So, it is good for what it is but don't use it as a major reference.

[Geoff Matson]

Hello Ken

 

I agree with Tom, there was fiddling with them. I went back and here are a few pictures that may help you.

 

 

 

Hope this helps a little. I used weld bond glue from Ace Hardware which is easy to debond with rubbing alcohol. It saved me more than once.

 

 

Edited December 9, 2015 by Geoff Matson

[usedtosail]

Ken, I just went back to my notes and saw that I had to glue some wood onto the front of those side pieces so they would sit back far enough so the slots would line up with the middle pieces.

[shiloh]

Kind of looks like those two outboard frame members should have been parallel to the keel, with the cross beam in the notches. The planking probably is not straight there and using the notch and keel for alignment would allow a uniform curve of the planking. My opinion is based only on what I read and see in the last few posts, I have not built this model. Good Luck

jud

[xken]

Geoff, Tom, thank you for the advice! Here is my solution using some of the kit parts with new corners.

I also reinforced the tops of the bulkheads with an outboard plank since they are sensitive to breaking off. I also added the crown to the top of the transom as well. Next I will work on the filler blocks.

 

Jud good thought but look at the detail on the plan sheet in the background of the picture and you can see that it is not parallel to the keel.

 

[mrangus]

Ken I will be taking great interest in your build as I am considering the Constitution for my next model. I'm on rigging for my current model and think I'll be ready for something more advanced. Also - I live about 6 miles away from the real Constitution and so it's about a 1/2 hr bike ride to get there from my house -very easy to get there to see how it actually looks. Your modeling skills are exceptional and I look forward to seeing how this comes along!

 

All the best,

Robb

[usedtosail]

Ken, it looks like you have solved the transom framing problem very nicely. Great work.

[Geoff Matson]

Ken

 

Looks like you solved your problem. Sometimes I think think the save is more fun than building the model

[xken]

Tom, Geoff thanks for your encouragement. I moved onto the stern filler blocks which not having a bandsaw was a slow process of sawing by hand. Once cut out I carved away using my trusty #11 Xacto blade and rough cut the shape. Here are a couple of views of the rough cut.

This shows the starboard block on the plan with the port side still trapped in the wood block.

 

A rear view.

 

Here I test fitted the sanded block in place and blended in the counter block. I will wait until the port block is cut before gluing in place.

 

[Landlocked123]

Nice carving Ken!!!!!

 

Best,

John

[M. Pajulahti]

Hi Ken,

 

Your ship looks good, and I'm also following your build with great interest.

 

Markku

[xken]

John, thanks for the compliment about carving. I moved on to the bow filler blocks along with the bow posts. I am showing a sequence of carving the blocks with no power equipment since I have neither bandsaw or sanders.

First I used a 1/2" sharp chisel to rough cut the blocks down to size needed with drawn on profiles as guides. 

 

Once the blocks were cut I then used the jeweler's saw to cut the curve. I recommend using the bench pin to cut on.

Next again working on the bench pin I rough cut away the excess material using a new sharp #11 blade.

Next I set the block in place and fine tuned the fit now using the beading line and bulkhead as guides.

The block was then sanded smooth to eliminate the blade cuts. Tip: I found a selection of finger nail files at the drug store that are great and more cost effective as sanding sticks. The orange course one works best.

This shows both blocks held in place by a tight fit vacuum (no glue).

 

Once satisfied with the blocks I cut and fitted the posts and braces to finish off the bow structure. I cut the notches by plunge cutting first the top and then the bottom at 90 degress using the straight back of the blade as reference. Once the plunge cuts were done the two sides were cut resulting on the notch for the post. Once the structure was complete I test fitted the bowsprit and cut and sanded the shoulder to have the bowsprit fitting tight on the shoulder.

 

Here is a view looking down on the bow structure. I hope this explanation helps sort out some of the confusion that may be caused by the plans.

 

[Geoff Matson]

Hello Ken

 

Those bow filler blocks are looking great.

 

One thing you might want to consider is how you plan to mount the ship to a display board. Right now things are open and easy to install what ever means you wish.

[xken]

Geoff, thanks for the heads up! I think I will make a cradle for it much like I did for the Niagara. This one will go to my son who lives in New York City; but will go to his house at the end of Long Island. Thus it will have to survive a cross country drive and I think the cradle will be stronger and easier to cushion.

[xken]

I moved on to the gunports, logic being the side of the hull being much stronger to work around while adding the decks. Here is an overall of all the starboard gunports in place and the entire hull sanded smooth ready for planking later on.

 

Here is the stern section where filler blocks still need to be added.

 

I also fitted the bowsprit and filled around the area that penetrates the hull.

 

Here is a close up of the bow section.

 

Now to finish sanding the post side of the hull to smooth out the gunports. Then onto the gundeck planking which I intend to do the same way as I did the Niagara deck only in two sections that will be inserted at the widest station bulkhead "H".

[GLakie]

You're going like gangbusters Ken. quite a feat, and milestone, getting all of the gun-ports done ahead of the decks. 

[xken]

George hopefully the dimensions of the plans are accurate because that is what I used.

My next "what the heck?" Not enough wood strips to do the deck. Materials list says 30 -1/16" x 3/32" x 24". Only about half of what is really needed. See attachment.

Has anybody else have this issue and how was it resolved. I will be emailing ME for more.

[GLakie]

The fact that the planks are short, doesn't really surprise me Ken, but their "Customer Service" is pretty good. At least when I got a hold of them about broken parts, they responded in about a week or so.