Anchor Hoy by Maurys - POF Harbor craft c. 1825 -- 1:48 - Finished

[Maury S]

Recovering from a cold over the previous week, and I try not to work on the model if I'm not well.  Coughing in the midst of a delicate exercise with a chisel could be dangerous.  All of the knees have been installed and minor sanding to fair the deck beams is completed.  I have some more work to do at the bow but all is proceeding well.

 

 

 

 

Maury

 

 

[druxey]

Pleased to see you back and recovered, Maury!

[Maury S]

Starting on the hatch carlings.  There are three hatches.  The main hatch shown below, right above the dividing walls for the water tank,

 

 

A forward hatch near the great cat (below)

 

 

and an aft hatch between the last two beams (not shown).  They are cut-in and glued.  The next are probably at the capstans, then the outboard sets that run most of the length.  Once all are in, I'll sand them flush with the beams.  By the way, I'm selling my Proxxon Lathe.  It's posted in the Traders (for sale) section.

Maury

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Really wonderful project. I've never seen a working boat like this before as a model

[Maury S]

Details on the carlings:  They are fit between the beams with a 45 + / - degree  "flange".

 

The beam is marked with a jig (a 1/32" strip glued to another piece)  It is held against the beam and a pencil line is drawn, indicating the extent of the 45 degree cut into the corner of the beam.  You can see it resting on top of the beam:

 

 

 

One edge and the back of the notch can be seen.  The other edge of the notch will be marked with a (# 11) blade while the carling is being held on the beam.  The corner (edge) of the beams are then notched and the carling inserted.  It usually take a couple of filing adjustments to get it to fit nicely.

 

Maury

[Maury S]

A few more carlings have been installed and I worked on the steps for the capstans while glue dried.

The foreward (larger step) still needs to be trimmed.  Both need another layer below fitting between the beams.  A small challenge is to create a different sized block under the fore sides of the steps.  They are parallel to the keel and perpendicular to the axles.  The deck of course has an angle (different at both steps).  There is a difference of about 1.5" on the fore and 3" on the aft.

 

 

Looks like the meshed gears will not be very visible.  The aft capstan will hide it anyhow.

 

Maury

[Maury S]

Capstan steps are finished and about half of the carlings are in.  It's been slow with other things going on.  I opened and started assembling the Shereline Lathe and mill I got for Christmas.  Only one critical part missing so far.

 

 

 

Maury

[albert]

Beautiful work Maury.

[Maury S]

While waiting for the glue to dry on carlings I've done a few other detail items.  The hatch coamings (4 sets) have been completed but not attached.  The coamings surrounding the opening in the deck for the great cat may not be called "coamings" but they serve the same purpose.  Keeping water from running over the deck and into the lower decks.  None of these details are on the Grice drawings.  Some are on Robt. Cairo's sketches, which are still speculative.

 

 

Maury

Edited January 26, 2017 by Maurys

[druxey]

Nicely cornered coamings!

[Maury S]

Druxey,  Re. Coamings, Right out of the Echo Section build instructions.

M

[EdT]

Very nice work on an very interesting model, Maury.  Bravo. I appreciate the cutting of the carlings in place - not easy.

 

Ed

[Maury S]

Carlings are finished and the knees abutting the mast step have been installed.  Regarding ledges, I've looked thru Steel and do not find any guidance about whether they were between all beams or just those a certain distance apart.  Any input would be appreciated. 

 

The hatch covers are done.  There are no gratings on this boat. 

 

 

 

I've not decided about whether to show them open or closed.

 

 

 

There is also an issue as to whether the forward and aft hatch covers were hinged or "lift-off".  No decision made there yet.

The orange blob on the paper in the lower part of the photos is yellow glue.  When I work with glue, I squeeze a small amount onto a piece of paper and pick up what glue I need with the end of a pin.  Eventually (soon) I move on to a new piece of paper.

Maury

[druxey]

I suspect that there were no ledges: there are no guns or heavy on-deck items to be supported. It would be unlikely that the hatch covers had hinges: just square lift-off covers with ringbolts in opposite diagonal corners. Rectangular covers had ringbolts for lifting near their short sides.

[Maury S]

Druxey,  Thank you.  

Maury

[druxey]

For an example of hatches, see the RMG 'Collections' site and search 'hoy model 1750'.

[Maury S]

Margin plank / waterways:  What color might it be?  Deck is "oiled" ...figure dark grey...Bulwarks are yellow ochre,  rails are black, hatches, etc. are white.  Would they match the deck or be some other color?

Maury

[druxey]

This is a service knock-about vessel, not a ship with a proud captain willing to spend a bit on his command. She would be, in short, a very Plain Jane. Decorate accordingly!

[Maury S]

The waterways are 3" thick and 10" wide.  I traced the shape to a piece of card stock, divided it up into three parts and cut them out on the scroll saw.  Then came my first experiment with a hooked scarf joint.  I laid it out in CAD first.  Length of the joint is 5 times the width.  The jogs in the joint are 1/5th of the width.  I glued the pattern to some card stock and cut it into the two parts and used one to line out on the waterway.  Once "satisfied" with the shape, I traced the opposing side from the waterway.  The long cuts did not come out parallel.  A few minor adjustments still need to be made but not bad for a first attempt.  They are loosely set on the beams.  Much tighter joint when held tight.

 

 

 

The wide gap shown in the lower picture will be hidden by the spirketing.  In any event, the joints may not be visible since the waterways will be painted.

 

Maury

[Maury S]

Latest attempt at a hooked scarf.  Long legs are parallel and the short notches are perpendicular to the long legs.  This is before being glued, which tightens up the joint even more.

 

 

Much better this time.

Maury

Edited February 3, 2017 by Maurys

[druxey]

After cutting a few of these joints, they should be easy! That last one looks very good, Maury.

[Maury S]

Waterway set in place. 

 

 

Both the hooked Scarf and a lap joint visible.  Now for the other side.

Maury

[albert]

Very nice work.

[captainbob]

Ah yes,  practice, is what we all need and I do it over and over.

 

Bob

[Maury S]

The waterways are now painted and there is no sign of the joints.  Actually, if you look with a magnifying glass you can make them out.  I mixed paint for the "yellow ocher" that the description calls for.  That color from Model Shipways is WAY TOO Brown.  This test sample is about 50 - 60% "pure yellow" mixed with the MS paint.  Four or five thinned down coats on boxwood.  Photo is a bit brighter than real life. Second mate calls this "mustard" and says "it's not a pretty color".  Pretty is definitely not what I was looking for.  I think it's just what I wanted.

 

 

Once the waterways have dried for a few more hours, I'll install them on the boat and start on the spirketing.

 

Maury

 

[druxey]

The joints will show more through paint over time, Maurys. If they show too much when first painted, that's not a good sign!

[Maury S]

Waterways installed.  I cut and shaped the forward spirketing seen in the first and third pics. just laying in place.  I'm going to paint the spirketing before installing.

 

 

 

Maury

[druxey]

Looks very nice, Maury!

[Stuntflyer]

Coming together nicely, Maury!

 

Mike

[Maury S]

The spirketing is being installed.

 

 

 

The spirketing piece is held down on the waterway and against the frame with braces that are notched and  clamped to the bulwarks. The notches will be lengthened when I get ready to install the inner bulwark planking (? thin stuff ?).

 

 

I had to make up a dummy rudder to make sure the planking on the transom will not inhibit the turning of the rudder.  I'll shape the hole as I move up with the transom planks.

 

Maury