Dunbrody by Mahuna - FINISHED - 1:48 - Cross-Section - Irish Famine Ship

[HIPEXEC]

If we had to build another Noah's Ark...I'd pick you to build it. You are an amazing carpenter!

[Mahuna]

That should make everything really rigid! Very neatly done, Frank.

Thanks Druxey.  I'm definitely feeling more comfortable taking Dunbrody off the building board now that there's a lot of braces installed.

 

 

Sweet work, Frank.

 

Thanks Mark!

 

 

If we had to build another Noah's Ark...I'd pick you to build it. You are an amazing carpenter!

 

Thanks Rich.  LOL - You reminded me of a very old Bill Cosby recording:

[Omega1234]

I'm sorry, Frank, but all I can see when I look at your photos is 'care and attention, precision and craftsmanship, detail and symmetry'....

 

Mmmm, me thinks I've run out of superlatives! Damn, it's no wonder I always enjoy your updates.

 

Have a great weekend!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

[Mahuna]

I'm sorry, Frank, but all I can see when I look at your photos is 'care and attention, precision and craftsmanship, detail and symmetry'....

 

Mmmm, me thinks I've run out of superlatives! Damn, it's no wonder I always enjoy your updates.

 

Have a great weekend!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

 

Thanks Patrick.  I appreciate the compliments, but there actually are a lot of things I wish I could do over.  I guess we're always our own worst critics, but this is continuing to be a great learning experience.

[captainbob]

Fine workmanship Frank, very fine.

 

Bob

[HIPEXEC]

I love the Cosby piece on Noah!

[TBlack]

Frank,

Not only is your workmanship superb, as our colleagues have attested, but also your step-by-step explanation and photography are so easy to follow. I ALMOST think I could do it myself!

Tom

[Mahuna]

Fine workmanship Frank, very fine.

 

Bob

Thanks Bob!

 

 

Frank,

Not only is your workmanship superb, as our colleagues have attested, but also your step-by-step explanation and photography are so easy to follow. I ALMOST think I could do it myself!

Tom

 

Thanks Tom!  

 

 

I love the Cosby piece on Noah!

 

[EdT]

Frank, you're becoming my hero on precision.  That straightsided compass point (just one of many examples), is a great improvement on one of my favorite marking methods.  Thanks.

 

Ed

[Mahuna]

Frank, you're becoming my hero on precision.  That straightsided compass point (just one of many examples), is a great improvement on one of my favorite marking methods.  Thanks.

 

Ed

 

Thanks Ed.  I actually got the idea from reading some of Roger Cole's work.  I feel it keeps the line a lot more accurate than using the tapered point.

[druxey]

Funny, that. I've used the reversed compass point method for decades and simply assumed that everyone else did that as well!

[dvm27]

The reversed compass point was unknown to me also. It's so simple, yet improves accuracy significantly. Wish I'd known about it years ago!

[Elijah]

Very nice job! The ship has an interesting design!

[WackoWolf]

A person can always learn something new on MSW everyday of the week. That's why MSW is the best.

[Mike40]

 Besides admiring in general your precise work on this model Frank I am particularly impressed with what a great job you did on the decking. It greatly enhances the realism and is in keeping with the overall quality of your work.. 

 

The question I had about the reason for chocks between the frame futtocks has been answered by an excerpt from J.R. Adams book on maritime archeology, https://books.google.no/books?id=VprwAwAAQBAJ&pg=PA183&lpg=PA183&dq=futtock+chocks&source=bl&ots=RmBHMh9mlf&sig=Je3oD-5ckK8d1eauyJmPKL-HAU0&hl=en&sa=X&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q=futtock%20chocks&f=false

 

According to the book futtocks were made from naturally curved wood where the long grain was consistent throughout the work piece. Later, these curved pieces were increasingly difficult to obtain and straighter pieces had to be used instead with the consequence that there would be crossgrain towards the ends after cutting to shape. By cutting off the crossgrain  on the top ends of futtocks and inserting a chock, strength could be maintained. Further, it was specified that at least 1/3 of the futtock thickness on the bottom at the ends should be preserved. 

[Mahuna]

Thanks Mike. The information you found on chocks is very interesting. I'll be looking for that book.

[ggrieco]

I've been away too long and have a lot of catching up on your build to do. My glass of wine is ready and I'm looking forward to the read ahead. Your descriptions of your techniques are as fascinating as your work is precise. What a pleasure!

[Mahuna]

Thanks Glenn.  I've been missing your posts on Heroine and I'm glad you're back online.  I've been traveling, and then focusing on planking, so I haven't posted an update in a while.  I hope to have one in the next day or so.

[Mahuna]

Part 43 – Exterior Planking

 

It has been a while since my last update.  Work on Dunbrody was interrupted several times for some personal business – family travel and such – but I’ve managed to make some headway on the exterior planking.

 

Dunbrody’s exterior planks are of different widths, depending on the location of the planks.  The following drawing shows the dimensions of the planks in 64ths.  These measurements were taken from the cross-section on the construction plan.

 

                        

 

Based on photos of Dunbrody, the planks that can be seen above the waterline show distinct differences in thickness, so all planks were left at their measured thicknesses rather than trying to blend these thicknesses into a smooth side.  This also serves to break up the appearance of the fully planked port side of the model.  Without the varying thicknesses there would be no texture to the model, since it is not painted.  The actual replica ship has fake gunports breaking up the black sides, and there is a green anti-fouling paint visible at the waterline – none of this is present on the model.

 

As with the ceiling planks shown in a prior post, all exterior planks were cut to size and pre-drilled for treenails prior to installation.

 

                        

 

Various methods of clamping were used to secure the planks while the glue dried, depending on access to frames for clamping.

 

                        

 

                        

 

                        

 

                        

 

The last photo above shows binding clips being used as clamps.  These clips were modified as shown in the following photo (this idea came from a build log I saw some time ago – I don’t remember the name of the log).

 

                        

 

Planking started with the two planks immediately below the planksheer/waterway.  In the prior post, the waterway was shown with a rounded edge.  When I started planning for the planking I realized that this was an error on my part – the molding is actually on a different location, and the waterway needs to be flush with the planks to allow the chainplates to lie flat against the ship’s side.  So after installing the two strakes I reduced the rounded edge to be flush with the planks. 

 

                        

 

The next planks to be installed were the garboard planks.

 

                        

 

The upper planks were installed next.  These planks were followed by the wales, the first strake of which can be seen in the following photo.

 

                        

 

The planks at the turn of the bilge are located at the same height as the stringers inside the hull, and are fairly thick.  The center strake is the thickest of all the exterior planks, and needed to be boiled and bent in sections as seen in the following photo.  Black art tape was used to  position this strake in a fair line.

 

                        

 

                      

 

The bottom planks were then brought to the lower edge of the lowest strake at the turn of the bilge.

 

                        

 

And finally the planks between the wales and the turn of the bilge were installed.

 

The following photo shows the completed port side.

 

                        

 

The starboard side has minimal exterior planking so that the details of the frames can be seen.  Originally the plan was to install only the top two strakes and some of the bottom strakes, as seen in the following photo.

 

                        

 

During our recent club meeting, both Rich and Brian suggested that adding the wales to the starboard side would present a more pleasing appearance, so I did add the wales. 

 

                        

 

I’m much happier with the appearance of the model after adding the wales.  Many thanks to Rich and Brian for a great suggestion! 

 

The treenails still need to be installed, followed by final sanding and scraping and application of the finish.  After (or possibly during) that work I’ll be working on the railings, which is a fairly complex part of the build.

 

                        

 

Thanks everyone!

 

 

 

[Omega1234]

Hi Frank

 

Well, the wait was worth it, because you haven't disappointed us with this update. Beautiful work, as always.

 

Once again, I'm struck by your attention to detail, your slavish commitment to symmetry and uniformity (as witnessed by the accuracy of the pre-drilled holes for the treenails) and the fact that you've kept the original width of the planks to give a textured look to the hull.

 

Marvellous stuff!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

Edited September 21, 2016 by Omega1234

[captainbob]

Your attention to detail is amazing.  You are building a fine museum piece.

 

Bob

[Mahuna]

Hi Frank

 

Well, the wait was worth it, because you haven't disappointed us with this update. Beautiful work, as always.

 

Once again, I'm struck by your attention to detail, your slavish commitment to symmetry and uniformity (as witnessed by the accuracy of the pre-drilled holes for the treenails) and the fact that you've kept the original width of the planks to give a textured look to the hull.

 

Marvellous stuff!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

Thanks Patrick.  A closer look shows a lot of room for improvement, but overall I'm pretty happy with the results.  I guess each of us is always most critical of our own work.  One of my goals in this build was to see if I could improve my accuracy in the details - I keep trying.

 

 

Your attention to detail is amazing.  You are building a fine museum piece.

 

Bob

 

Thanks Bob.  Dunbrody will look fine in my museum (den), but I don't think it would stack up well to real museum models.  But I do appreciate your comments.

[AON]

Unique modification to the bulldog clip!

I've got to jot that one down.

[Mahuna]

Unique modification to the bulldog clip!

I've got to jot that one down.

Hi Alan.  These clamps will hold planks in place, but they don't have the force of other clamps so they don't impart much pressure on the joint.  That being said, they are useful in some situations.

[GuntherMT]

Another variation on those clamps is to simply glue a short piece of wood into them rather than using the steel clamp handle, that gives you a softer surface pushing against your planks.  You'll find a bunch of pictures of this in my build log, I made a couple dozen of them with wood instead of the other clamp handle.

 

Functionally they are the same thing though, and they are used in a fairly high number of build logs on MSW.

[popeye the sailor]

hello Frank!    Man.......I wish I had looked in on this build sooner!   getting caught up was a testament to the splendor of sculpted wood!   I enjoy looking in on builds like these......they give so many ideas,  but I lack the sort of tools that you have.     levels above my meager work, I can tell ya that!   just a super log all the way through

 

personally,  with all that there is to see.......no one will ever see the scarf joint mishap.   if that's the only minor {yea, I call it minor} boo boo you made,  then you still an expert in my book!   fantastic workmanship!  

[Mahuna]

Hi there Popeye!  Great to have you aboard.  Thank you so much for the great comments and all of the 'Likes'.  The scarf joint wasn't the only error by far - my scrap box can attest to that.  Some errors I've been able to do-over, while others can't be fixed and will always be there to make me cringe.

[Mahuna]

Part 44 – Bulwarks

 

As shown in the final photo of my last post, the main deck railings are fairly complex. 

 

                        

 

Scuppers are cut through the lowest bulwark plank, and partially into the next higher strake.  The upper corners of the scuppers are rounded.  The chainplates come through these scuppers, and are partially cut into the next higher strake of bulwark planks.   There are partial planks located at each stanchion, presumably to serve as spacers for aligning the next higher strake of planks. 

 

                        

 

The first order of business was to draft the construction of the main deck rails, as seen in the following photo:

 

                        

 

This drawing will help to determine several things: the angle of the chainplates, the depth of the rails and pin rails, and the size and shape of the smaller stanchions supporting the topgallant rail.

 

 

 

With all of this in mind, I decided to install the bulwark planks prior to any other work on the main deck rails.  The first step was to install the spacers, or pieces of what would have been the first strake of planks.

 

                        

 

The scuppers were then marked on the plank that would form the second strake.  Since the scuppers are partially cut into the plank, a line at the correct depth was drawn across the entire plank.  Then marks indicating the fore and aft sides of the scupper were made.

 

                        

 

           

 

The strake was then held upside-down in the vise, located so that the bottom horizontal drawn line was aligned with the jaws of the vise.

 

                        

 

Stop cuts were made with a razor saw, slightly inside the marked lines.

 

                        

 

The plank was carefully pared back to the stop cuts.

 

                        

 

The end of the scupper was then rounded, using a small round escapement file.

 

                        

 

The horizontal border of the scupper was then filed down to the jaws of the vise.

 

                        

 

The plank was then held against the stanchions and the locations of the bolt holes were marked.

 

                        

 

The bolt holes were drilled, copper wire was inserted as simulated bolts and blackened with liver of sulphur.  The strake was then glued in place.

 

After the strake with scuppers was completed, the top strake of the bulwark planks was installed.

 

                        

 

                        

 

The next step will be shaping the main rail and topgallant rail, followed by creation and installation of the small stanchions that will support the topgallant rail.

 

In the meantime, installation of treenails in the hull planking is continuing.

 

Thanks everyone for the ‘Likes’ and comments.

 

 

 

 

[GuntherMT]

Very nicely done on the rails so far.  Looking forward to seeing how you handle those complex chain plates.

[Omega1234]

Love your work, Frank!