HMS Triton cross section - FINISHED - by G.L. Scale 1:24

[G.L.]

Dear Administrator and forum members,

 

Today I started my cross section project. I want to build my model in oak and in scale 1/24.

Making the keelson and keel is not such a big deal, just sawing the pieces to the right dimensions. To make the rabbet in the keel, I made a scraper out of an old iron saw blade. First I sawed a groove on the location of the rabbet in the keel, afterwards I sharpened it with the scraper.

 

Edited September 2, 2018 by G.L.

[G.L.]

With these results I would like to join the project group.

[tkay11]

Looking forward to the build!

 

Tony

[Pete38]

Welcome to the build, 1:24 scale will make a nice big model. Looking forward to more

[G.L.]

Thank you administrator for access to the download area and thank you tkay11 and Pete38 for the welcomes and all the others for the likes. I will try to make an interesting blog of it. First thing I did when I was in town was going to a copy-center to make scale 200% copies of a part of the plans and now I am thinking about the approach of the project.

I hope to come soon with  a first report of progress.

 

[mtaylor]

I'm looking forward to your log also.

 

Definitely double check the copies for accuracy as sometimes (usually?) they don't copy at exactly 200% due to the machine not being accurate.  It's a function of copiers and scanners at 100% to prevent counterfeiting of currency and many times that inaccuracy continues for enlargements and downsizing.

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Welcome to the Triton shipyards

[G.L.]

I start my project with making a ground plan of the cross section and gluing that plan on a piece of MDF sheet.

[G.L.]

I glue the false keel on the keel. A friend made two brass tubes with screw thread to mount the model. The tubes are bolted on the building plate an two holes with a slight larger diameter then the tubes are drilled in the keel. The keel is pushed on the tubes with some glue in the holes.

[G.L.]

Time to start with the frames.

That's a whole frame ready to be saw.

 

[G.L.]

I saw them out with the fret saw a little bit outside the lines.

[G.L.]

I do not want to spoil my 200% copies, therefore I copy the frame drawing, using carbon paper.  I lay the drawing on a plate of glass to have flat surface to assemble the frame. The first layer of futtocks is glued on the drawing with rubber cement. Between the joints of wood pieces I put wood glue.

[G.L.]

The second layer is glued on the first one with wood glue.

[G.L.]

On top of the frame comes a second plate of glass and some lead weights. The glue can dry now.

[G.L.]

Next day the frame is ready for further treatment: Sanding with the drum sander.

You see the result on the second picture. Holding the frame in hands, I am bit surprised of the size of a 1/24 scale frame. Compared with a frame of another project, a 1/20 scale shrimper, it looks enormous.

[G.L.]

After sanding, I drill holes for the treenails. Some wood glue in it (goes easy with syringe) and then the bamboo nail.

[G.L.]

On the plans, no limber holes are marked. I although think that they existed, so I make them, hoping that they are correct.

[amateur]

That will be a massive model...

 

Jan

[G.L.]

I wish all forum members a happy and prosperous New Year with a lot of modelling pleasure in 2017! Before going to the family this afternoon, I have some time to line up with the progress on the cross section.

 

As an aid to place the frames vertical, I made two wooden perpendicular supports which keep a shelf vertical. On the shelf the middle line of the cross section is drawn. That will be my aid to glue the frames on the keel.

The lieutenant on the second picture is in scale 1,70 m high, just to have an idea of the proportions

 

[G.L.]

Between the frames, a small piece of wood is glued temporally to keep the correct distance from bottom to top.

[G.L.]

When all the frames are in place, It is time for a first sanding session. Thanks to the large scale, I can use normal tools. After sanding I install the keelson.

[G.L.]

After the sanding I make the notches for the gun port lintels. As can be seen on the picture the frames on the port side are a bit to short below the gun port. Fortunately there will be planking on top of it.

[G.L.]

The grove in the limber strakes is made with the Proxxon saw

[G.L.]

To determine the angle of the sides of the limber boards, I fix a piece of cardboard with some scotch tape on the end of the keelson and limber strake. This way it is easy to line the contours of the space between them. The result is a template of the limber board.

[G.L.]

With the template I make a pattern of the angle to set up  the angle of the Proxxon saw to saw the boards.

[mtaylor]

Looking good.  I like the way everything is going.  The limber strakes look great.

[G.L.]

Thank you Mark,

I have a question about the limber boards. I guess they were removable to check the level of the water in the bilges. I suppose they were shorter than the lenght of the cross section and there were (finger)holes in it in order to make it easier to lift them up. Do you have an idea of the lenght and the look (from above) of the limber boards?

 

Geert

[Pete38]

Geert, I had the same question in my build log. All the replies I got were they are about 3 feet long with a hole drilled at the ends for lifting out. So I scaled my accordingly. Turned out looking nice so that is what I went with.

 

Go to page 9 on my log and scroll down to about post #170 and you can read the replies.

 

Hope this helps

Edited January 3, 2017 by Pete38

[mtaylor]

What Pete said.  The removable part was more for cleaning out debris than checking the water level.  The limber channel was for the water to drain into the well and given the nature of the ships, it wasn't unusual for them to get clogged up.

[G.L.]

Pete and Mark,

 

Thank you very much for this useful information.

 

Geert