18th Century Longboat by BobF - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 - Tri-Club

[BobF]

Here are a series of photos of the third plank being worked on.  Nothing really different with this strake, other than the fact that it has a much more abrupt twist at the stern. Maybe it's my imagnation, but the curve at the bow also seems to be more pronounced.  Anyway, I like to concentrate on shaping the forward end of the plank first, since the stern hasn't given me much of a problem.

 

Once the forward portion fits pretty well, I mark where the plank starts changing shape at the stern, and begin working with it.

 

These photos show that abrupt twist and the final result.

 

 

[Ryland Craze]

Bob,

 

I have learned so much from your excellent pictures and descriptions of how you planked your Longboat starting with the garboard strake.  I had installed my garboard strake on both sides of my keel, but have since carefully removed one side and will use your method.  I left the other side intact for strength until I reinstall the garboard strake that I removed.  You have saved me a lot of issues with planking my hull and I thank you for that.

[BobF]

Ryland,

 

I'm really glad that I could be of some help to you.  Not a bad idea, leaving the other garboard strake in while you work on the new one.  If you're not sure about something I did, please don't hesitate to contact me.  Good luck, mate!

 

Bob

[BobF]

With the addition of the fourth plank on each side, it was time to put the transom on.  Like my fellow Tri-Club member, Toni, I decided to brace up the piece with two strips of scrap wood, rather than the two planks recommended in the instructions.  The tick marks seem to be working out pretty well, so I'm going to continue adding planks from the keel up.  As I approach those braces, the transom should be pretty stable, and the bracing will be removed.  Anyway, that's my plan.  We'll see what happens.

[Trussben]

Impressive planking there Bob, enjoying the ride.

 

Ben

[BobF]

Now that I no longer have to contend with the false keel, and I have a couple of planks glued to the transom, I've decided to change my approach as far as shaping the planks is concerned. You may recall that before gluing a completed plank in place, I used it as a template for the next plank.  This procedure, at least, got me in the ballpark. For the rest of the model, I'm going to use the "Magic Tape" method, which works pretty well, especially in a situation where you're trying to run one continuous strake from bow to stern.

I understand that some modelers duplicate the edge of the mounted plank by rubbing an impression in the tape, but I've found that a sharp pencil also works.  You don't have to press as hard, and since I'm working with basswood, that may be especially important.

The template you get from the rubbing may not be perfect, in fact mine rarely are, but they get you pretty close.

If I were spiling a plank for a larger model, I'd be using the concave part of the cutout.  However, since I'm edge-bending the planks, I'm going to use the convex portion as a guide.  The next two photos aren't pretty, but I think you get the idea.  The white pieces of paper under the clamps minimize the chance that the clamps will leave impressions in the soft basswood.  I'm using a sheet of glass as a base for this procedure because it's perfectly flat, impervious to water, and is quite thin, which allows me to use smaller clamps.

As suggested in the instructions, you can dry the plank with a hairdryer, or just leave it for a few hours, while you work on something else.

If the plank isn't quite right, I just dampen the area in question, and repeat the procedure.

[Chuck]

Bob

 

Wonderful photos.

 

That is exactly how I plank a hull...works a treat and saves a lot of wood. ... Instead of cutting the shaped plank from a wider sheet which ends up with to many scrap pieces.  Great demo on the technique.  With the strip clamped up,  I use a hair dryer on the hottest setting to quickly heat and dry the plank.  You can get really close to the plank so it gets really hot. After about two minutes of that, I let the strip rest for another few minutes.  This locks in the bend with minimal spring-back.  

 

Chuck

[JeffT]

Thanks for that tutorial Bob. So instead of cutting the planks from larger material, you are edge bending them. I like the idea. Looks like I need to get my own hair dryer.

[BobF]

Chuck -

 

I'm glad that you like the photos.  There's no doubt that basswood can be used when it comes to edge-bending.  I'm starting to get the knack of it, but I still buckle one, now and then, when I become a bit too agressive, or I don't use enough clamps.

 

Bob

[BobF]

Jeff -

 

This is my first experience with edge-bending.  It might work with basswood, but I'm not so sure about harder woods.  Next time the situation comes up, I'm going to do a little experimentation.

 

Bob

[hopeful]

Hi Bob,

 

Love your build log, wonderful "how to"!  You are going to end up with a build you will be very proud of. Good for you!

 

Because I have the kit I check on all the builds of Chuck's long boat. How sweet it is to have you all to follow when I start my long boat, priceless.

 

Wish you well as you move along.

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted Gallery

 

Current: Sultana (MSW)

Current: Phantom (MSW)

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

 

 

.

Edited May 6, 2013 by hopeful

[Chuck]

Bob 

 

Yes it works quite well with Boxwood too!!

 

The trick I think is the heat from the hair dryer.  It relaxes the fibers.    As long as you let the strip cool down and set,  it is OK.  But like you you said.  It must be clamped down to avoid any buckling.  

 

Chuck

[BobF]

Chuck -

 

I'll definitely try it with my next model.  This is going to make my club spiling presentation obsolete!  That's OK though, it was really too long to begin with.

 

Bob

[Geoff Matson]

Thanks for posting your build log. This one is one to do list.

 

Your presentations are always a joy and never too long. I hope to be at the meeting Sat if I don't have horses to haul and listen to your next talk.

[WackoWolf]

Bob and Chuck,

 

    I wish to Thank both of your for the more advance tutorial and presentation ( I think it was the presentation that did it ) on planking this way. Chuck I had talk with you some about this the last time I saw you but we never got to finish the talk, now this has finished what I was not able to go over with you. Thanks for the help, both of you.

Edited April 11, 2013 by WackoWolf

[BobF]

Wacko ( I really feel strange calling you that. )

 

I'm really glad that I could be of some help.  Although I understand the concept of spiling, I have to admit that this little model has been a learning experience for me as well.

 

Bob

[Chuck Seiler]

Bob,

    Are you tapering the plank before you edge bend it or after?  I would think you should taper before, but the photos in post #36 seem to show that you did not.

[BobF]

Chuck -

 

No, I don't do any tapering until the bends and twists have been made, and the spiled edge of the plank conforms to the edge of the plank already mounted. Often, that can require some shaping with a sanding block up forward where the plank sweeps around the mounted plank, and maybe a little at the stern.  Most of the time, introducing a bevel is also necessary. Then the tapering starts, and the tick marks come into play.  The outboard edge is sanded down until the tick marks become visible, which produces a properly proportioned plank.  Not a lot of wood needs to be removed, and you have to constantly check, so as not to take too much off.  If by chance you do take a little too much off, you probably can make it up with the next plank or two being a little wider.  It probably won't be noticeable.  I hope my explanation makes sense.  Please don't hesitate to contact me, if you have any questions.

 

Bob

[BobF]

Hello all,

 

Things have been a bit crazy for me lately, and I haven't had a lot of time to work on the longboat.  However, since my last post, I did finish the planking, but I certainly didn't break any records!  Here are a series of photos that show my progress.  In this next photo, I have five planks left on each side, and I'm using the Magic Tape method to spile the planks.

With only four planks to go on each side, the spiling is becoming noticeably easier.

Whith only three planks to go, I stopped spiling and formed the planks by eye.

At this point, because the curve of the planks wasn't that great, I was able to do a true edge-bend on the planks.

As you can see in this next photo, the bend is not that great.  There were only two left on each side at this point.

In this photo, the next to last plank is being mounted.  If I had to do it over again, I probably would have tapered the previous three or four planks a little bit more at the bow.

Here are a series of photos of the completed planking job.  This little hull has very pleasing lines,

[Chuck Seiler]

Bob,

 

   Superb!!!  And you didn't break off the stem piece.  :-)

 

    I wouldn't worry about being slow.  You are going great and the result is fantastic.

[BobF]

Chuck,

 

Thanks for the kind words.  As far as the stem is concerned, I came close once, but I just cracked it.  I think it happened with about three planks to go, which really ticked me off! Hopefully, the hard part is over.

 

Bob

[hopeful]

Bob,

 

Beautifully done!!! Thanks for the tutorial.

 

BFN,

Hopeful aka David

[BobF]

David,

 

I'm glad you like the photos.  Because this is a group build project, I've been documenting my progress for our meetings.  Anyway, I thought I'd post them on MSW as well.

 

Bob

[Geoff Matson]

Nice to see the boat coming together. Everything is clean and crisp. Nice job Bob.

[BobF]

Thanks, Geoff.  I'm glad that you like it.

 

Bob

[Jason]

Great Work!  

 

That is a pretty amazing, and precise, planking job.

[BRiddoch]

That sir, is one fine planking job.

 

           Bob R.

[BobF]

I have to admit that the bracing, which is being removed in the next two photos, served me well.  There were times during the planking process when I put a lot of pressure on the hull, and the frame handled it.  I decided to alternate port and starboard as I removed the bracing, just to make sure that no stresses were created.

Removing the center portion of the bulkheads/frames was a snap.  (No pun intended.)  Chuck did a nice job with this design feature.  I used a rather coarse file to get down to the laser cuts, which really didn't take long.

[Chuck]

Very nice images of the frame centers being removed.  That shows how it should be done.

 

Nice update.

 

Chuck

[Trussben]

Superb job on the planking Bob, really nice.

 

Ben