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Le Soleil Royal by popeye2sea - Heller - PLASTIC - 1:100


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Thanks, Henry, for the quick reply.  You have corroborated what I have found in my own reading, regarding the main and fore sheets.  On Dan Pariser’s Queen Anne’s Revenge, he incorporated sheaved fair leads into his bulwarks, but that ship is a little bit later - around 1710.

 

I know what you are referring to on Michel’s SR.  I’m not sure about whether that was a common practice for the time, on the beakhead bulkhead;  no idea, really.  From a mechanical advantage standpoint, it makes perfect sense.  I have, however, seen a similar belaying station between knight heads, aft of the main and fore masts.  Maybe also on Dan’s QAR.  I can’t remember clearly, but a little later I’ll reference his log to see what I find.

Edited by Hubac'sHistorian

We are all works in progress, all of the time.

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I know it is common for the main and fore knights and even other knights located about the deck.  For those it is absolutely necessary to have the line pass through a sheave at the bottom.  You would have massive problems if you tried to belay directly to the head of the knight.  But I have not seen it before at the beakhead bulkhead.  The line there can be redirected using the rail itself.

 

Regards,

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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  • 1 month later...

In a previous post I spoke about shifting the fore halyard knight off centerline.  Here are the promised photos.

 

Fore-knight-relocate-1.thumb.jpg.78f8ccbc51b4d80bccd550ab67e92295.jpg

 

The knight is removed and the hole is lengthened to starboard approximately it's own width.  A strip of styrene is glued beneath to hold up the new deck.

 

Fore-knight-relocate-2.thumb.jpg.188261904ce9903650395e4ff1a46f84.jpg

 

This photo shows the old centered location of the knight.

 

Fore-knight-relocate-3.thumb.jpg.e55108caad9794abe325f22b698114a3.jpg

 

Fore-knight-relocate-4.thumb.jpg.0c64ebd53f85c6f886b7d46973a0a276.jpg

 

A small section of matching deck was cut from a spare forecastle deck (old kit).

 

Fore-knight-relocate-5.thumb.jpg.8192dc466313a7c562d16b0ce8e49a2e.jpg

 

The section is trimmed and fitted.

 

Fore-knight-relocate-6.thumb.jpg.3e5d22320982255cdc3d842f8374211d.jpg

 

Gaps filled and deck painted.

 

Fore-knight-relocate-7.thumb.jpg.66318b5e523f98a0e517c62fc65232a0.jpg

 

Knight remounted in new location and paint touched up.

 

Regards,

 

P.S.  I really like the new set up I am using for photography.  I am using a macro lens filter attachment and photo flood lamps. Post processing using Adobe photoshop.  Still think there is room for improvement with the lighting and shadows.

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another small update.

 

I decided that the straps for the main yard tyes were too long.  Plus I did not like the contrast of the tarred strap with the natural tye.  So here is the quick correction.

 

First photo is the old strap.  These straps are made on a serving machine by taking 12 or so turns between the prongs then serving over, leaving an eye at both ends.  The eyes are then lashed together end to end to make a continuous loop.  This results in an unserved gap over the eyes that is then served manually (not using the machine).  The result is called a selvagee.  I also use this method, or variations of it, to make the strops of blocks.

Tye-strap-old.thumb.jpg.1b6171f04565d03f7c24821b4f317659.jpg

 

The second photo is a comparison of the new and old straps.  The blocks on either side are the main sheet blocks rose lashed in place.   The other unfinished loops are place holders for blocks that still need to be installed.

Tye-strap-new-1.thumb.jpg.a44c5ae28b9cbdc9c7ad8fe502ed7581.jpg

 

Here are both of the new straps installed.

Tye-strap-new-2.thumb.jpg.89daab429aac27448ddf213849589400.jpg

 

This last photo will give you some idea of how the tye attaches to the strap.  When installed on the ship a seizing will be clapped on above the hitch to secure it.

Tye-on-strap.thumb.jpg.8a34ea35a72372ab62c43514daf5757e.jpg

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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I started work on the main yard parrel.  Still trying to determine how these were rigged.  The sources I have are all confused on the issue.  There are lots of guesses but nothing definitive.  And the diagrams I have seen do not look like they would actually work.

 

Anyway,  here is what I have so far.  The parrel trucks are cut from .03 x .125 styrene strip.  Holes are drilled for the parrel ropes and then the trucks are given their final shape.

Main-yard-parrel-1.thumb.jpg.1fec59392caea273dbd03d2b58db0393.jpg

The parrels themselves are 10/0 glass beads I purchased from a craft store.

Main-yard-parrel-2.thumb.jpg.e0230fb331141022092e64121913616b.jpg

 

Main-yard-parrel-3.thumb.jpg.6d2bb155188ad2f1a5775238e52d1e0d.jpg

This is not the final configuration.  My initial thought is to reeve the parrel ropes such that there will end up being a thimbled eye splice at the top left and bottom right corners.  The other end of the ropes will emerge from the opposite corners and be left long enough to pass around the yard, through the eye, and then to a tackle at the deck.  The trucks will be painted.

 

Anyone have thoughts on the proper way to rig a yard parrel?  I'm eager to hear what others have done.

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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Here is the put together yard parrel.  It works, sort of.  It needs to be reduced by 1 or 2 segments.  And I probably need to lash together the eye and the hauling part so that it ends up middled at the end of the parrel .  The pull will be more even.  The center parrel rope will be finished off with a stopper knot.  The center truck is a slightly different shape in order to accomodate additional holes for the nave line

 

Main-yard-parrel-4.thumb.jpg.4e4797ecdf8c45b7d0181b391223842d.jpg

 

Main-yard-parrel-5.thumb.jpg.ed0dbabf985f89db037e8c3b53491065.jpg

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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The parrel looks good Henry! As for rigging them, I've used Anderson's 17th Century Rigging book as a guide for that. I do not remember precisely what he states in it and I am not at home to look it up. If you do not have that book, first I would highly recommend it and secondly, I would be glad to share what he says in it for the parrel when I get home tonight. Even with it, there is still room for variances and how/where the lines attach to the deck I am uncertain about. If you do have the book, then this post is relatively useless to you other than to say that I share in your confusion! :D

"A Smooth Sea NEVER made a Skilled Sailor"
- John George Hermanson 

-E.J.

 

Current Builds - Royal Louis - Mamoli

                    Royal Caroline - Panart

Completed - Wood - Le Soleil Royal - Sergal - Build Log & Gallery

                                           La Couronne - Corel - Build Log & Gallery

                                           Rattlesnake - Model Shipways, HMS Bounty - Constructo

                           Plastic - USS Constitution - Revel (twice), Cutty Sark.

Unfinished - Plastic - HMS Victory - Heller, Sea Witch.

Member : Nautical Research Guild

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Progress in very small increments, but progress nontheless.

 

Here is the finished main yard parrel.  The length of the parrel has been cut to four sets of trucks.  The center rope that holds it all together is stoppered, and the tackle trusses are seized to their eyes.  This parrel actually works.  The ends of the truss are passed around the yard and then through the thimbles before leading to a tackle at the deck.  The span spliced into the center rib takes the nave line which helps lift the parrel over obstructions on the mast as it is lowered.

Main-yard-parrel-6.thumb.jpg.36c2ba46f74c1c001a892baddeb72055.jpg

 

Next up are the materials and tools I used to make thimbles out of brass tubing 1.6 mm o.d.  The tubing is from K&S Precision metals and is stocked at my local hobby store.  I use the punch to start opening out the ends of the tubing.  The tubing is cut into @ 1mm lengths.  Once the edges have been opened out and the inside diameter of the hole has been opened to about 1mm I hammer the thimbles on the bench block to reduce the thickness a bit and further spread the edges.  These thimbles are just over 2mm  diameter

Tools-for-thimbles.thumb.jpg.e9542532bf4439260084fb842d894d6c.jpg

Brass-thimbles.thumb.jpg.26458563f66bff4aa66a1ecb2ff30d21.jpg

Here is another item I am working on.  I will let you guess what they are, but I will give you a description of how they are made.  An eye is spliced around a thimble at one end.  The eye is served over and the service extends form the eye a scale 30 inches along the length.  The remaining length is unlayed and then made up into a flat sennit braid. The end is whipped to secure the braid.

The one addition I made to this is that under the serving I have wormed the rope with some thin wire to make this section stiffer.  BTW this work would be impossible using the Morope I have for the main rigging.  I purchased some rope from Chuck Passaro.  It will hold together beautifully while making these eye splices and sennits. 

S-1.thumb.jpg.dfc2a8693f21b50ceed1c87808483920.jpg

S-2.thumb.jpg.23df4d146af4aecf68abb272cd11dcfc.jpg

 

Crazy?   Probably!!

Let me know your guesses!

 

Regards,

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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Well, either no one is interested in this build anymore because of the glacial pace of the build, or no one wants to surmise what these are.

 

So, they are the stirrups that suspend the horses (foot ropes) from the yard.  The braided portion wraps around the yard and is nailed in place.  They are evenly spaced along the yard, three to a side on the main and fore yards.  As soon as I make a few more I will mount them and provide a photo.  I may want to buy some thinner wall tubing to improve the performance of the thimbles.  The thick wall may not allow a fair lead for ropes and hooks.

 

Regards, 

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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Just to mention I make thimbles in a similar way using tubing with a 0.1mm wall. Care is required. I find I cannot open 1 side fully and then turn it over and try to do the other side, it just opens the first side more. Turning frequently is required. Also I get some cracking, but most of the time this can only bee seen using x10 magnification.

 

How do you cut your 1mm lengths? I use a jewellers saw but with the wall thickness being only 0.1mm the teeth catch so I have to cut by drawing the blade backwards after starting the cut.

 

Glenn

 

Current Builds

Scottish Maid, V108 Torpedo boat

 

Future Builds

Snake (Caldercraft)

 

Previous builds

HMS Shark (Sergal), Sirene (Coral), Armed Pinnace (Panart), Etoile Schooner (Billings)

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8 hours ago, glennreader said:

Just to mention I make thimbles in a similar way using tubing with a 0.1mm wall. Care is required. I find I cannot open 1 side fully and then turn it over and try to do the other side, it just opens the first side more. Turning frequently is required. Also I get some cracking, but most of the time this can only bee seen using x10 magnification.

 

How do you cut your 1mm lengths? I use a jewellers saw but with the wall thickness being only 0.1mm the teeth catch so I have to cut by drawing the blade backwards after starting the cut.

 

Glenn

 

I use a jewelers saw also, the blade I am using is about 32 teeth per inch.  I also use a the tubing cutter vise shown below.  The distance between the adjustable head and the blade guide is just over 1 mm.  It is the shortest length capable on this tool.  The blade does have a tendency to bind halfway through the cut.  I too found that frequent turning is required while swaging the ends of the tubing.

5ade1c5146d1c_tubingtools.thumb.jpg.050d7852ef86d0071d47fd5e9ecbba71.jpg

 

Regards,

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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Thanks henry. I had not seen the tube cutting vice before. It looks very usefull, I have put it in my wishlist on Amazon. Now I need to wait for a family member to spot it and a special event. Unfortunatly my birthday was in January. Fathers day in the UK is June 17th (74 days to wait):)

 

I do not know how many tpi the blade I use is, its just the finest one I have. The other thing I do is push some solid stock down the middle, but I always feel that is such a waste. What can you do with lots of 1mm lengths of 1.6mm brass rod; the tubeing I have been useing riecently is 1.8mm o/d.

 

glenn

 

Current Builds

Scottish Maid, V108 Torpedo boat

 

Future Builds

Snake (Caldercraft)

 

Previous builds

HMS Shark (Sergal), Sirene (Coral), Armed Pinnace (Panart), Etoile Schooner (Billings)

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  • 4 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Oh dear, Henry, I have a horrible feeling you are going to be the cause of many more fretful evenings for me. I’m still in the early stages of my 1:100 victory, which is supposed to be the only major kit I’ll ever do, but the Soliel in your hands is becoming a siren call. Please keep posting, I’ve only grazed your log but, if I am foolish enough to buy this soon, I’ll be using your log to guide me through.

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

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  • 2 months later...

Greetings!  Great job so far!  I know you are working on another build, but have you made progress on SR?  If I may, I'd like to recommend that you look at the build by David_K on the Fine Scale Modeler.  He did an outstanding job that answers common questions about this build.  You won't regret it!

 

Bill

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  • 1 year later...

Thanks Bill,

 

This build and modelling in general keeps getting pushed to the back of the priority list.  Work, running a non-profit business and life in general keep getting in the way.  The SR keeps staring at me from the top of my desk and I will get back to work on it eventually.  The total build years has accumulated to over 40 now.

 

Regards,

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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  • 3 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Thank you, Bill.

 

I have just taken the build down off the shelf to start dusting it off after a couple of years of non activity.  I am going to enter it in the USS Constitution Model Shipwright Guild annual model show as an in-process model.  As I continue to work through all the other stuff I have going on the build continues to work it's way higher on the priority list. Hoping to start construction again soon.

 

Regards,

Henry

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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Anxious to see some of the photos. 
I read through this blog over and over. I see where you used Easy Mold years ago to make ornamentation. Trying to understand how it works. I looked it up online. I understand using the substance to press onto what you wanted to mold to get the design, but then what do you put into the mold to get the final product?  Does Easy Mold come with an additional product you put into the hardened mold to get your finished ornament?

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There is a product in the same line called Easy Cast. It is a clear epoxy casting resin. Once you have the mold you mix the two part resin and pour the casting.  Once it sets you can unmold, trim and paint.

 

Regards,

Henry

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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Thanks Henry. I ordered that as well as the Easy Mold. I also ordered ca spray can of cast releaser just in case I need it. Did you have any problems with getting the casts to release from the mold?  
Speaking of casts, I have read through your build here over and over again. Today I noticed, I guess for the first time, that way back in the early pictures you showed the gammoning done on the bowsprit. At that time there does not appear to inclusion of the carved piece between the knees nor your added ornaments. Did you have to go back and remove the already completed gammoning in order to add the pieces you made?

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