J-Class Rainbow by MrBlueJacket - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1:180 - RESIN

[MrBlueJacket]

I'm building this model to give as a Thank You to someone. It is inexpensive, easy to do, and looks nice. The Rainbow was the winner of the 1934 America's Cup race, followed by Endeavour in second place. Here's the box and the contents.

[shane762]

Neat little kit.  Once it's finished what are the length and height?

[MrBlueJacket]

Fist thing to do is to wash the resin hull in soapy water and let it dry. Then fill the minor holes and stuff with putty. I use automotive glazing putty, it is laquer based and dries pretty fast.  Here's the hull after filling and sanding.

 

Next comes gluing a handle on the hull so I can maneuver it better. It's just a basswood block and superglued down. SInce there is a dack part to go over the resin, when I take it off and sand down, it will not show when the model is finished

.

[MrBlueJacket]

By the way, I started this over the Thanksgiving holiday. Here's how it looks after the first coat of primer and sanded down with 320 wet. That handle was perfect while spraying the primer.

 

And here it is after a second coat of primer, this time sanded with 600 grit wet to give a really smooth base, since the finish will be gloss.

[MrBlueJacket]

And last night I sprayed the bottom copper. It was from my  very old 1/4 oz bottle of Testor's and the tag on it said 59 cents. That 600 grit paper really paid off. This weekend I'll mask it off and spray the gloss white.

[MrBlueJacket]

6 minutes ago, shane762 said:

Neat little kit.  Once it's finished what are the length and height?

It is  8 1/2" long by 12 1/2" high with the mounting stand. The Plexi case is 11 x 4 x 14.

[gsdpic]

I'll follow along.  I built "version 1" of this kit and the Endeavour some 20 years ago.  They still sit in their glass cases on my shelf.

[MrBlueJacket]

So I decided to assemble the laser-cut display base. It is a very artistic, delicate looking 3-piece assembly out of mahogany wood

[robdurant]

I like that stand - it looks really smart

[MrBlueJacket]

So this past weekend I masked off the hull, using the kit-supplied waterline template to mark it off.

[MrBlueJacket]

And then I sprayed gloss white from the rattle can. Got a nice shiny finish, but when I pulled the making tape off, I discovered the folly of my ways. I didn't burnish the tape enough, and left a slight flap of overlap unsealed. The result is less than professional.

 

 

So now I have to mask off the white, and re-spray the copper. *SIGH*

 

I have often said that there are very few true craftsmen, the majority of us just learn how to hide our mistakes! (like me)

[MrBlueJacket]

Last night I masked off the white and re-sprayed the copper.

 

It looked great until I pulled off the masking tape, and some of the white paint came off with it.

 

 

So tonight I will strip off all the paint and shoot another coat of primer. once again, *SIGH*

[yvesvidal]

You need to use a better masking tape. That blue stuff is too strong.

I would use Tamiya yellow masking tape. It is the absolute reference for the plastic modelers and small scale projects.

 

Yves

[shane762]

6 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

You need to use a better masking tape. That blue stuff is too strong.

I would use Tamiya yellow masking tape. It is the absolute reference for the plastic modelers and small scale projects.

 

Yves

I'll second that.  I've been using the Tamiya tape for years and love it.  The only thing I ever use besides the Tamiya is the very narrow 3M pin-striping tape.  I used to use loads of both when I painted helmets for a friend's roller derby team.  

Edited December 5, 2017 by shane762

[ScottRC]

 I have had the same problems with painting copper over gloss surfaces and vise versa until I was taught the following technique:

 

 - Spray a coat of matte clear over the entire model, including your topcoat, this will seal the topcoat and give both the tape and bottom paint a textured surface to "bite" into.

 - Lay your mask down, as was said, the Tamiya range of masking tape is the best.  They now make tape that fits contours.

 - Spray a coat of clear over the mask at your demarcation line, this will add an additional seal.

 -  Then spray your next color and let sit for at least a full 24 hours if its enamel.  It takes a long time for this to cure.  If not fully cured, it will peel off in sheets.

 - De-mask, inspect, wipe clean all mask residue with a mild solvent, then spray on a few light coats of clear gloss, let sit and enjoy the finish.

 

Scott

 

Edited December 5, 2017 by ScottRC

[MrBlueJacket]

Thanks for the tips, guys. I never have this problem with flat paints. I also have some Sig vinyl pinstripe tape that I'll try.

[MrBlueJacket]

So last night I hit the hull with 320 wet sandpaper, here's the result.

 

Then I shot more primer, tonight I'll do the 600/wet routine (again)

Edited December 6, 2017 by MrBlueJacket
spell correction

[MrBlueJacket]

So this past w/e I sprayed FLAT white paint, which I have never had trouble with. Let it dry overnight, then masked off and sprayed copper. FInally, a good result!

 

 

 

[MrBlueJacket]

So onward to the 1/16" black boot-top tape, and the 1/64" gold cove moulding tape, followed by three coats of gloss clear. I'm happy with the result.

[MrBlueJacket]

Inbetween coats of clear, I took the photo-etch pieces off and started to work on them. The skylights are half-etched to show the guard rods, but it is all brass color. I painted them with dark grey, then wiped off the highlights with a paper towel (dry) The net result I think gives them some depth.

[MrBlueJacket]

The kit includes a small (7/8") replica of the America's Cup trophy, cast in Britannia metal. I sprayed it with rattle can chrome which I think is a good impression of polished silver at this scale.

[robdurant]

That hull looks fantastic now! 

[MrBlueJacket]

Last night I attached the laser-cut deck to the hull.Having the locations of the major components cut in is a big help, no need to measure where things go!

 

To make a work cradle, I cut an oval out of a cardboard box bottom and lined it with foam. I used the waterline template as my guide, cutting about 1/2" larger all around.

 

Now I can start to do some fun stuff, like populating the deck and getting to the rigging. I consider the hull work a necessary evil that has to be done so I can get to what I like to do.

(makes no difference if its' a solid or planked hull)

Edited December 14, 2017 by MrBlueJacket
spelling

[popeye the sailor]

don't be hard on yourself....paint can be very unforgiving.   flat and gloss is two different compositions.......flat lack the suspensions that gloss paint has.   if that's a resin hull,  then that would account for more heart ache.   resin isn't enamel friendly,  so I've read.   I've never dealt with resin before.....I have the Polar Lights Batmobile and it comes with resin figures of Batman and Robin.....guess now I have my chance.

    I also have a few bottles of Copper paint......bought way back in the mid 90's.  I did the bottom of my United States with it,  with no ill effect.   of course,  it needed to be thinned down a bit more than if it was a fresh bottle,  but I'm good with that       the tip of giving the hull a clear coat before paint is a good one,  it will give the paint something to adhere to {be sure to use a flat and not a gloss}.  metallic paints are also different.....anything added to a compound will either weaken it or change it's structure.  it has the suspension additive,  but when the metallic additive is added,  it slows down the curing process and dries to a soft finish.   it needs ample time......I didn't touch my hull for at least a day or so.   even then,  it can be prone to finger prints and scuffs,  unless it is given a clear coat {I use a flat or semi gloss lacquer}.

 

very nice kit you have here.....small,  but all the processes are there,  so there's no loss of experience {just because it's a small scale kit}.  look'in good!   

[popeye the sailor]

I missed that you gave it a clear coat afterwards.......see......you have things well in hand   

[MrBlueJacket]

So I'm working on some pieces, and looked at the small steering wheel. It is a photo-etched piece, and I decided rather than just paint it, I wanted to leave the ring brass colored. So I took an 18/0 paintbrush and brown gloss paint and did this: (that's my index finger)

[MrBlueJacket]

And moving onto other bits and pieces, I painted the liferings. Boy, are they tiny!

 

[MrBlueJacket]

Time to drill all the holes needed in the deck. Something like 26 holes altogether. Sooo glad they're pre-marked.

 

 

[MrBlueJacket]

And here's a picture of the deck all fitted out, and also the boom with the spreaders attached. now to work on the mast........

[robdurant]

Lookimg great!