US Brig Syren by Jason - Model Shipways - 1:64

[Jason]

Plate Production:

 

After getting the stamps squared away, it was on to the production of plates to cover the underwater hull.  As I wrote above, originally I wanted to create the relief of the stamp above the surface of the plate rather than emboss the simulated bolts into the plate.  I thought that this would simulate the appearance of nail heads or bolt heads in a more realistic way, However, in practice all that I was able to accomplish was a mess.  So I went into plate production stamping the plates on the copper side of the tape.

 

To start I cut 16" strips of copper tape, and then straightened them by running them through my fingers until the curve from being coiled was taken out.  I marked the stamping jig with a stop line, so that I could advance the tape through the jig and stamp it without any waste in copper.

 

 

After the strips were stamped throughout their entire length, I cut them into the individual plates using a chopping machine.

 

 

 

 

When I started to apply the plates, I was pleasantly surprised by something unforeseen.  While applying each plate, I burnished them with a pencil eraser.  No only did this get the plate to stick to the planking very well, it also produced an effect on the stamped pattern that was very welcome.  The burnishing process raised the center of each simulated nail head, while leaving the perimeter of the circle indented below the plane of the surface.  The visual effect produced is much like the head of a fastener surrounded by a large flat washer.  I am not sure if this would be correct on the real thing, but since we are really just simulating a pattern in a scale that would be extremely difficult to produce a truly accurate pattern, I think the produced effect is a credit to the model.

 

Up to this point, I have coppered the port side.  I will continue with the starboard and dressing belts next week.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Love the look of your coppering Jason, great production system you have for the plates.

 

B.E.

[Marsares]

Nice progress and she's certainly starting to look like a beauty!

 

Thanks for the in-depth explanation on how you made the stamp for the copper banding. Out of curiosity, are you using the Proxxon IBS/E with the MB200 drill-stand? I'm thinking about acquiring this - probably with the KT70 compound table - and was wondering how you felt its performance is?

[Jason]

Thank you B E!  

 

Marsares, I am indeed using the IBS/E, MB200 tool combination.  To this point in time they perform very well.  Both of them are obviously built to a high standard of quality, which is apparent the moment one lifts the tools from their packaging.  The Drill stand in particular is very durable.  When I started using the MB200, I was a little concerned about being able to adjust the height of the tool.  However, I have found with use, that the height adjustment mechanism works well with very little play.

 

There is one adjustment that has to be checked regularly, and that would be the tension adjustment on the press slide.  On the picture above, where the tool is being used to grind , you will notice three small, black, hex nuts.  These keep tension on the slide, and if they are not cared for there will be some play in the slide.

 

The IBS/E is by far the best rotary tool I have ever used.  Again, there is a sense of durability imparted by the feel and weight of the tool.  The rotational speed adjustment is smooth, and the rotation lock for changing bits is well designed.  It also comes with a set of 5 collets of various sizes.  However, anything smaller in diameter than say a # 70 drill bit will need an additional collet.

 

I will be picking up the KT70 table in the coming weeks as well, I think the combination will make a quality, versatile tool for a modest sum.

 

I hope that helps!

 

Regards, 

[Marsares]

Thanks, Jason. That really answers my question.

 

I think the IBS/E + MB200 + KT70 makes for an excellent rotary/drill combination from the reviews I've read so far, and your experience seems to underline that. I'd like to it the MF70 mill in due course, but that'd be of a later concern once I start to modify kits more in preparation for scratch build. I'm quite some years away from that though I'd imagine! 

Edited February 15, 2014 by Marsares

[Jason]

Copper, Finished at Last!

 

This had to be the most tedious part of this build up to this point.  However, the result is really satisfying.  I am not sure I will ever copper the bottom of a model again, but I am glad that I finished this one.  I have to say, that the day that I bought this kit, I opened the box to examine the contents.  At that time, I was not sure I could ever get to this point in the build.

 

As you can see from the last photo, I have started to prepare the ship to receive the rudder.  This was a very nerve wracking step, as I did not want to wreck the counter.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

[augie]

Copper looks terrific.  I know how you felt drilling that hole for the rudder.  WELL DONE!

[NWdiverTodd]

What steps did you take to make the drilling process successful?

Your model looks so clean and trim!  Well done on the copper!

 

-Todd

[Blue Ensign]

Great finish Jason, well worth the effort.

B.E.

[Azzoun]

Really impressive job so far...

[Jason]

Thank you everybody!  It has been a really long time since my last update!  So much has happened that it has kept me from working on any models, but things are finally calming down enough to start updating the build log again!

 

Todd, in answer to your question,

 

 

What steps did you take to make the drilling process successful?

 

I used the X/Y table on my proxxon tool stand to get a really reliable placement of each hole.  The resolution on the table is 1mm per turn of each axis' control knob.  So you can be quite precise!

 

Here is a picture of the whole setup with my apprentice helping me.

 

Edited June 16, 2014 by Jason

[fnkershner]

I am glad the apprentice is starting our with eye protection.

[Jason]

Twelve Pounder Chase Guns:

 

One of the first things that I was able to do after life started to slow down a little bit, was to start on two really small models.  I purchased a gun carriage kit form Chuck Passaro's Syren Ship Model Company.  I also purchased the beautifully turned brass 12 pounders to go with them.  I had so little time to spend on modeling in March, April and May, that these little models gave me the 5 minute fix that I needed every so often to keep me involved in the hobby.

 

I was very pleased with the products offered by the Syren Ship Model Company.  I have also since had the opportunity to try their blocks and rope, which were of equal quality.

 

 

I bought these pieces to replace the kit provided 12 pounders, though the kit long guns really are not that bad compared to the carronades that are provided.  I made the decision to use an all turned brass armament as a matter of taste, and as a matter or accuracy in the case of the carronades.

 

The downloadable instructions on the Syren Ship Model Company's website were easy to follow, and provided a clear path to not only put the pieces together, but also to add a few details to make the finished carriages all the more realistic.  Another nice touch, is that the carriage kit comes with a few pieces of boxwood stock to make pieces such as the quoin and it handle.

 

I used a 1/16" square piece chucked into my rotary tool, and a small file to produce the tiny handles.

 

 

 

 

Next I filed the quoins to shape, then drilled the correct size hole in the back of the quoin to accept the handle.

 

 

 

I also added a few of the details suggested in the downloadable directions, such as simulated bolt heads, and the suggestion of a two piece carriage side made by scoring a line across the piece.  You will notice in the picture of the completed carriage, that one of the "bolts" came through the inside of the carriage.  I have since fixed the problem, being a "bolt" that was too long, and forced into the pre-drilled hole.

 

 

I still have to install the gun retention straps, and associated ring bolts into the carriage, but I am holding out on that until it is time to install the finished cannon onto the deck.

 

More updates to follow shortly!

[Jason]

Rudder and Transom Decoration:

 

I have had the rudder mostly complete for some time, but I have been holding off on installing it, because I just did not feel up to the task of fabricating gudgeons and pintles.  So I decide not to do that.  I have created simulated gudgeons, but there are no pintles on this model.  For the sake of durability, I decided to pin the rudder to the stern post using three, 0.072" brass rods.  The rods were inserted into pre-drilled holes in the rudder, then used to mark the locations in the stern post.  Once those positions were located, corresponding holes were drilled in the stern post.  Everything was then press fit together.  The small rods were just flexible enough to allow for some fine tuning to get the rudder straight.  

 

 

 

Before I hung the rudder, I decided that I would create a mortise in the rudder head to accept the tiller when it is installed.  I used a drill bit that was the correct size, then used a 2mm micro chisel to square the hole.  Initially I only made the mortise a little more than half the depth of the rudder head, but then decided to go the whole way through, to allow the tiller tenon to pass through the rudder head to be fidded on the after side.

 

 

 

 

I also installed the carved moldings along the transom.  I decide to use the kit provided castings, as I do not feel the call to learn carving at this point.  I started by cleaning the castings up with a burr grinder and added some detail.

 

 

Next I painted them.  In order to give them maximum effect, I painted them with a three tone scheme.  A base color, a slightly darker color for the low spots, and a slightly lighter color for the high spots.  This provides the piece with added depth, and makes it look closer to carved wood.

 

 

Finally I attached it to the transom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jason]

The Current State of the Build:

 

The Syren, with a woodcut of Dr. Warren of Bunker Hill fame looking on...

 

Edited June 16, 2014 by Jason

[Azzoun]

Nice to see you back.  I recently acquired this kit from a gentleman who started however I think I'm going to have to re-do the side planking above the main deck.  Cool to see your kid getting into it, should get him a starter kids kit to do...

 

Josh

[Gahm]

Jason, your Syren is really coming along very nicely! And I love your long guns! I just would check the middle part of your stern decoration again. I may be wrong but I always thought it should be mounted the other way round - flipped around by 180 degrees. Not that it would make a big difference. And as I never used these parts of the kit myself I may be completely wrong here, too 

 

Thomas

[Littlebob]

Great build of your Syren, when done it will be a beautiful ship.

[ca.shipwright]

Great way to make copper plates. One question I have is: do the nail heads sit proud of the copper plate or are they recessed like you show? If they are raised, do you think you can turn the tape over and punch the paper side to get this affect.

 

Bye the way, this series on plate making would  make a great single topic reference posting. I just stumbled across you post and am very glad I found it.

[Jason]

Thank you everybody!
 

Josh - Thanks for stopping by, Enjoy the kit, it produces a wonderful ship, solid with nice lines.  I in fact do have a nice little project lined up for the little boy and I to enjoy.  I will be posting on it later in the summer.

 

Thomas - You are correct about the center casting.  I didn't even realize it until I read your post and checked the pictures in Chuck's practicum.  It should have stood out to me that the garland was defying gravity, but alas it did not.  At this point, I am okay with it, and being that it is glued on with CA, I do not want to go through the trouble of taking it off and making the wood underneath presentable again.  It will be a great reminder to pay attention in the future.  Thank you for pointing that out.

 

Robert - Thank you!  I hope you stop by again.

 

Michael - The center of each "nail" is raised for the most part.  This was accomplished by burnishing each plate with a pencil eraser.  It creates an effect similar to a nail head and washer.  I did experiment with stamping from the paper side, but I did not have any luck with it.  I suspect, that if it were tried on a hard, yet semi forgiving surface like a cutting mat, it might work.  I was trying it on basswood with pins that were way to big to start out with.  I just could not get a reliable pattern out of it stamping through the paper.  I do not think it impossible though.  Thank you for suggesting making the plate series a how to post.  I may take you up on that suggestion as time permits.

 

Best Regards,

[aliluke]

Great looking work Jason in every regard. Superb.

 

One wee thing that Dirk put me onto is miniature rivets from Scale Hardware www.scalehardware.com I used these for the bolts on my Syren Models cannon carriages. I used the brass ones with the 0.7mm head. You can see them in my log as well as Dirk's. Might be a nice little add for you on forthcoming parts.

[DCIronfist]

Looking good     

[Jason]

Thanks Alistair and David!

 

Alistair - I will look into the bolts.  Thank you for providing the link.

[Jason]

An Interesting Point of Comparison:

 

I have been pondering what to do about the main armament for my Syren for some time.  I knew from the moment I first rummaged the box contents that I did no want to use the kit supplied carronades.  To me, they look proportionally similar to a swivel gun.  It took a long time to figure out what I wanted to use, because for one thing there are not really that many commercially available carronades out there.

 

I toyed with the idea of making them, or at least one and then casting the rest, but I had it in my head, that I was going to use brass pieces.  

 

So enter Caldercraft's 1:64 24lb carronades.  I could not find them in the US, so I ordered them from Cornwall Model Boats.

 

I only bought a couple to be sure that I wanted to use them.

 

So, lets compare them to what was supplied,

 

To me there is no comparison here.  The brass piece has much more accurate proportions than the white metal piece.  

 

So, how do they compare to the plans?

 

 

as you can see they are actually both a little long.  However, you can also see that the brass piece has the appropriate width and proportions.

 

The Verdict:

Overall I am happy with the size and shape of the Caldercraft pieces, and I will order the remaining 

number from Cornwall Model Boats.  As an aside, I received my order from the UK to New Jersey in about a week.  I am interested to see what sort of issues will pop up down the road, but I am fairly certain that the overall look will be satisfying.  I hope this helps anybody that my be thinking about going a similar road with their Syren.

[Gahm]

Dirk is right! I am just working on my carronades, too. I am using the 18 pounders, and they are a great fit . . . kind of designed for the Syren 

 

Thomas

[Jason]

Thanks Dirk and Thomas!  18 pounders it shall be!

[rtropp]

When you purchase the carronades, do they fit the wood carriage assembly supplied with the kit or do you get the Caldercraft set that includes the carriage and other fittings?

 

Thanks,

Richard

[Gahm]

They fit the wood carriage assembly from the Syren kit perfectly. Just buy the barrels - I think they come in pairs with the elevation screws included. If you buy the whole assembly including carriage it is getting quite expensive. The one thing you have to design yourself is the mounting mechanism between the barrel and the carriage. But the best reference there is Dirk's build log. He came up with a beautiful solution.

 

Thomas

[scott larkins]

Jason,

 

All of it is coming along really well.  Your work is outstanding.  And I would have to agree with you, those new carronods do seem to fit the model better.

[Jason]

Thank you Scott,

 

It has been awhile since the last post, and a lot has happened in the interim.  Though the happenings have little to do with ship building, and mostly to do with big life changes, including an out of state move.  So we have been really busy.  One of the many good things to come out of the move, is our new house, when we can finally move in, has a conditioned outbuilding that will be the new model ship yard.  Looking forward to that!

 

In the interim, I was able to do a few things model related.  Such as paint the quarter galleries.  For quite some time I thought that I was going to scratch build the quarter galleries.  However, the more I thought about it, the more using the kit supplied pieces appealed to me.  I now have a supply of premium woods available to me, but there was something about the idea of a certain tradition that won me over.  When I was growing up, any exposure to these kinds of kits always had their white metal pieces.  And for some reason I was always enamoured of them.  I feel that they are a part of the tradition of model ship building going back at least a century, and for some reason I find a sort of resonance in my being toward that kind of thing. 

 

That being said, in the future, I plan on doing scratch builds, using traditional and cutting edge materials and techniques.  So I do not see these types of castings in my future.  But, I am proud to have them on my first serious model.

 

Now, on to the painted quarter galleries...

 

I employed the same technique used in painting the transom molding.  Using three close shades of the same colour.  However, I varied from the prototype in that I wanted to add some colour to the galleries.  I painted the drop and the roof as if they were real quarter galleries on a frigate.  With the roof, I scumbeled together black and a very little German field blue.  These pictures are of the process, and an almost finished product.  This was literally the last thing I did before all of my hobby stuff was packed away.  Once it is unpacked, I will edit the post with the finished product.