HMS Speedy by Delf - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64 - Master Shipwright edition

[glbarlow]

Congratulations Derek on your Speedy being featured on the MSW Facebook page!

 

My Fair American was featured recently. It’s nice to see our work shared, so thanks MSW. 

[glbarlow]

On 7/12/2020 at 3:29 PM, DelF said:

Quadhands

How’s the footprint working out?  I saw they have a smaller 4 hands model as well. My big question is do the magnets hold when you’re tensioning lines?

[DelF]

Thanks Glenn. I’m not on Facebook so I hadn’t seen that - I’ll have to find out how to look at the MSW page. 
 

I’m using Quadhands extensively for rigging the cannon. The magnets are very strong, and should be more than adequate for any rigging jobs. 

 

Derek 

[ccoyle]

1 hour ago, DelF said:

I’m not on Facebook so I hadn’t seen that - I’ll have to find out how to look at the MSW page. 

 

Here ya go, Derek -- you're famous! One hundred likes already since just this morning. 👍

 

[DelF]

Thanks! Fame at last.

[DelF]

Gun Rigging - Port Broadside

 

Phew! That took even longer than I anticipated, mainly because I kept havering about details like the length of the side tackle; redoing work then reverting to the original. I started with the tackle short, as per post #301, then after SpyGlass's helpful input I lengthened it (post #316). Looking at the two side-by-side on the model I was minded to revert to the short version, but was eventually persuaded by my wife, who usually has a better eye (she tells me), that she preferred the longer tackle (stop giggling on the back row!).

 

Duly persuaded I lengthened it another 3mm, which I think makes the tackle hang better and show off more frapping. 

 

Anyway, here's the port broadside finished:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hopefully the starboard broadside won't take as long now I can stop chopping and changing.

 

I've taken a few photos of the rigging process which I'll put in a separate post to avoid making this one overlong.

 

Derek

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[chris watton]

My God that is absolutely stunning!

[Ronald-V]

Magnificient!  

[glbarlow]

Truly excellent and the reference model for the rest of us.  This is where I’ll come to see how to do mine. 

[DelF]

Gun rigging - the process

 

As promised, here are a few notes on how I went about rigging the guns. None of these techniques are original, but if nothing else it'll remind me what to do for the starboard battery! The material I used was as follows:

 

Blocks - 2mm single blocks from Vanguard Models. Superb quality. Larger guns would have a single and a double block for each tackle; two singles are acceptable for these tiddlers

 

Breeching - I ran up a 0.75mm rope on my Syren Rope Rocket, using 3 strands of DMC 20  Cordonnet thread. This is ecru colour - better than pure white but I like to darken it slightly with a very weak solution of van dyke crystals. If you've not come across this, it's a traditional water based wood dye made from walnuts. I use it for most of my rigging - a strong solution will dye standing rigging to a brown that is almost black. 

 

Other ropes - DMC 100 thread, the finest they do, close to 0.10 mm

 

Seizing - I use very fine fly fishing thread for small ropes at this scale (see post #301). For no particularly good reason I use black for standing and brown for running rigging.

 

I covered the stropping of blocks and making ringbolts for the carriages in an earlier post so I won't repeat that (Update - see post #345 below for an updated version of the jig used to strop the blocks) 

 

Breech ropes are typically three times the length of the barrel, just over 80mm in this case. I cut mine to 85mm to give a little leeway.

 

I started by seizing one end to a ringbolt then running the free end through the ringbolts in the carriage:

 

 

It was a tight fit and I found I needed to put a bit of thin ca on the free end to make it stiff enough to thread through. This is all much easier to do off the model.

 

Next, I shifted to the Quadhands  to seize on to the second ringbolt. On the left hand side I'm using a small clip to hold the end of the seizing closed. Once I get the first couple of knots done I remove the clip, otherwise it just gets in the way:

 

 

 

This shows the seizing technique more clearly. I do a series of half knots, alternatively above and below the rope being seized. With thin stuff like this you don't see it as knots. In fact without magnification you'd be hard pressed to see the individual strands.

 

 

When I've done sufficient turns I finish with a reef knot then a dab of fly tying cement (see post #301).

 

Then, with the barrel held in the Quadhands I gently persuade the breech rope over the cascabel:

 

 

Seizings trimmed, and she's ready to be mounted on the deck (a blob of ca under each truck and one for each ringbolt - on previous builds I've put pins through the carriages into the deck, but you have to do that before mounting the barrel, and with Speedy I was too impatient).

 

 

 

On to the side and train/inhaul tackles. The seizing technique is the same, just using brown thread this time:

 

 

I think this gives a nice scale appearance. As with the breeching, I had to put thin ca on the running end of the rope and trim it to a point with a scalpel to get it to thread through the blocks:

 

 

To frap, I found it much easier to use a separate piece of rope rather than trying to wind the running end around. To make the job easier and ensure consistent lengths I made up a little jig - just two pins in a piece of wood. I put a clip on the running end to hold the rope in tension while I started the frapping:

 

I 

 

 

Next step was to take a 150mm/6" length and wrap it once round the tackle with a half knot. I didn't photograph this step, but the result is clear in the next picture, where I've lifted the tackle from the jig and mounted it in the Quadhands (simply to make it easier to handle):

 

 

Then, it's back to the half knots, alternating above and below:

 

 

Even with this thicker rope I think this technique gives an acceptable result, with the individual knots hard to see except under magnification. As before, I finished with a reef knot for added security and a blob of fly tying cement - I've found this works as well as other methods for securing knots prior to trimming.

 

 

Here's two guns-worth of side tackle trimmed and ready for fitting:

 

 

I made the inhaul tackle in the same way, the only difference being a rope coil instead of frapping. I made the coils in a standard way, putting a small amount of PVA glue on short lengths of rope by running them between my finger and thumb, then wrapping them round 5mm dowels mounted on a block. It's important to wrap the rope loosely so that when the glue is dry and you carefully pull the coils off the dowel,  the results lie more naturally. 

 

 

In each case I trimmed the ends of the rope short, underneath the coil, then glued the coil on the deck over the running end of the tackle:

 

 

I hope this is not too long-winded or simplistic. I am conscious there are some very experienced modellers watching this, but also relative newcomers who might find some useful tips.

 

To complete the update, I've started one or two more jobs whilst fretting over the guns. I've cut the blanks for the remaining masts from boxwood - I'll use the kit material for yards as they'll be painted black. Before too long I'll start shaping the spars, using the technique I set out in post #187. I've also made a start on the little ship's boat - a mini project in itself:

 

 

Finally, I took time out to paint and fit the belaying pins - I must say it's a real pleasure to find a model with proper scale pins and not the usual Christmas tree bulbs!

 

Derek

[DelF]

Thanks everyone, for the kind comments and likes. SpyGlass - I didn't see your post until I did my second one on techniques, where you'll see great minds think alike!

 

1 hour ago, SpyGlass said:

Instead of actually frapping the rope I sometimes just put a series of overhand knots round the tackle

[glbarlow]

4 hours ago, DelF said:

rigging process which I'll put in a separate post

Whoops, crossed posts. I have added this to my reference folder.

Any reason for fly fishing thread vs the common thread I steal from my wife?

 

Great and informative posts.  I’ve rigged lots of cannons, but this puts steps in a new light with clever techniques.  

[VTHokiEE]

This is awesome and really timely for me as I'm quickly approaching my guns. Thank you for all the details!

[DelF]

2 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Any reason for this vs the common thread I steal from my wife?

Apart from the fact that it doesn't earn you a clip round the ear from an irate spouse?

 

It's just so fine Glenn. If you're seizing 0.10 mm line with 0.10 mm line it looks clunky to my eye. The fly tying stuff is just 0.04 mm - less than 2 thou in imperial. It's so thin it adds virtually no thickness to the rope you're seizing - hopefully you could see that in some of my recent shots? Fly tying thread comes in various types and diameters. 18/0 is the thinnest I've found - you may find it described as 30D (Denier). I don't know if my brand - Semperfli - is available in the States but if not a fisherman's supplier should be able to advise on an alternative.

 

Or you could just continue with clunky seizings and sore ears 😁.  And thank you for the very kind comments, by the way.

 

Derek

[VTHokiEE]

32 minutes ago, DelF said:

Fly tying thread comes in various types and diameters. 18/0 is the thinnest I've found - you may find it described as 30D (Denier)

You sent me off on a hunt hopefully I can find some Black and Brown varieties in the states. The fun of determining if a random fly fishing website will actually deliver on the sale 😀

[glbarlow]

37 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said:

some Black and Brown varieties

Amazon  I already checked.

[Nunnehi (Don)]

Derek, 

 

Huge thanks for the tutorial - that’s got to be one of the most useful things I’ve seen posted here! It’s got everything, how to do it, materials, tools, the whole package! Just great!

 

Don

[DelF]

Thanks Don! Glad you found it helpful. 
 

I’ve learned a great deal from this forum and I enjoy trying to put something back. There’s a selfish reason too - it might be a year or more before I rig guns again, and without a log I’d probably forget how I did it. 
 

Derek

[hwe]

14 hours ago, VTHokiEE said:

You sent me off on a hunt hopefully I can find some Black and Brown varieties in the states. The fun of determining if a random fly fishing website will actually deliver on the sale 😀

Please tell me, if you find Brown stuff... - I only got Black and White. But I got even 20 DEN(ier). --- 20 DEN means '20 Gramms for 9 Kilometers', if I understand this correct.

It is produced by UNI Productions Inc. and is called UNI-Caenis. It is made in Italy and I have it in Black and White.

 

Have you tried Ebay?

 

Best regards,

Herbert

[DelF]

On 7/23/2020 at 7:00 AM, hwe said:

Please tell me, if you find Brown stuff

I get brown and black fly tying thread from The Essential Fly, based in North Yorkshire - the link is here. They ship worldwide, and as the thread is so light (a 100 metre spool weighs 7 grams, about a quarter of an ounce) shipping costs should be reasonable.

 

I note they also stock the 20 Denier thread mentioned by Herbert - that is ridiculously thin! I think I'll get some just to try it, but for now 30D is fine enough for me. Also, according to the website the 30D is over 30 times stronger than the thinner stuff. The latter has a breaking strain of only 3 oz (less than 90 grams) which I suspect would limit its usefulness for rigging. In contrast, the 30D is remarkably strong for its size - hence the term spider thread - and I've not yet managed to break it accidentally.

 

Derek

 

[DelF]

Gun rigging techniques

 

For completeness I ought to describe how I updated the little jig I made to strop the tiny 2mm blocks for the gun tackle.

 

The original jig was OK for a few blocks, but it quickly became obvious it wasn't up to rigging all 84. It was awkward to use, and the 0.3mm brass wire pegs that held the block in place were too soft and bendy.

 

 

So, I replaced the two brass pegs with  pieces cut from a broken 0.35mm drill bit.

 

Next, I cut the base of the jig away just in front of the new steel pegs - when the jig is mounted in the vice this gives me more space to wrap the ends of the wire round to form the hook.

 

Lastly, I glued a small piece of wood directly behind the pin that forms the ring (becket?) in the strop. The top of this piece of wood is level with the groove in the block. This stops the strop slipping to the bottom of the pin, and leaves the wire nicely lined up with the groove. The pictures probably explain it much better than I can - first without a block and then with a block being stropped:

 

 

 

One further little detail - I staggered the heights of the two steel pins deliberately. When they were both the same height, I found it quite difficult to get them both through the holes in the block at the same time. Remember, these things are tiny! Staggered like this, it's comparatively easy to get the first pin engaged then slide the block down to slide over the second.

 

Derek

[DelF]

Deck fittings

 

Thanks as always for the kind comments and likes - they are much appreciated.

 

Just by way of a break from gun rigging, I was prompted by a question Glenn raised in the Masting & Rigging sub forum to replace the octagonal mast bases.

 

I posted a step-by-step guide in that topic so rather than repeating that now I'll just provide a link here.

 

I made the bases out of 2 mm boxwood sheet on my Proxxon micro mill. Arguably they would be quicker to make on a lathe, although I timed myself and it took just 20 minutes to make both bases. So I don't think there's much in it, and it provides an interesting little exercise if you have a mill and a dividing head/rotating table.

 

 

Derek

[glbarlow]

Nice to see it In practice 😊

[DelF]

On 7/17/2020 at 4:50 PM, glbarlow said:

My Fair American was featured recently

Remiss of me, but I've only just followed this up and found your gallery album of Fair American - stunning! You certainly achieved your goal of 'painting with wood' - absolutely gorgeous. I particularly loved the exposed frames, and I also noted a very neat example of joggling and some nicely turned belaying pins. Lots of other points of merit of course, but they're items I've recently been concerned with so I was especially interested to see them. 

 

I was surprised to see the album listed under kit built models as she looked scratch built to me (and I mean that as a compliment!). Can I ask what model and if it is still available?

 

Derek

[glbarlow]

Thank you, it is one of my best results and took a couple of years to build (working almost every day), just the frames took 6-8 months. It was a semi-kit, I got the basics from Bob Hunt of Lauck Shipyards, but bashed it heavily with woods from Jeff of Hobbymill (I miss that guy) and other parts here and there.  Unfortunately he sort of went under (he still sells practicums) and none of his ship models are still in production. Actually he sold the rights to some plastic modeling company then they never did anything with them. The cannon were my true test of no paint and no blackening, because that's kinda paint. I debated a while before leaving them just as they were.

 

I appreciate your looking - and compliments from someone of your skill are appreciated.

[DelF]

On 4/27/2020 at 11:18 PM, glbarlow said:

Where did you get the boxwood, it seems like it’s a magical wood that no one can find.

Glenn - just seen this, if you're still interested...

[glbarlow]

Thanks! I appreciate you're remembering. I don't have an immediate need now but I'll try getting some to see how it looks.  It would be nice to have a US source.

[DelF]

Fly Tying Thread

 

I've just realised that I pointed my link to the wrong thread in my earlier post. I linked to Nano Silk rather than Spyder Thread. The colour and size are the same, but I'm not sure the properties are. I have rectified the link now, and can only apologise for any problems caused. The slightly better news is that Spyder Thread is cheaper!

 

Derek

[DelF]

Cannon Rigging contd.

 

Starboard battery finished!  Once I'd got myself sorted out on the port side it took much less time to complete the second set of guns. Real production line stuff - instead of completing one gun at a time I did all the breechings, then all the blocks, then all the frapping and so on.  Much more efficient if a little tedious doing 50 blocks at a time, for example.

 

Here's the result:

 

 

I've temporarily refitted some of the deck furniture just to see how she's looking, but I'll probably remove some of the snaggable items such as deck pumps until later in the build.

 

 

On 6/15/2020 at 5:25 PM, DelF said:

I'll blame you and VTH if I'm still struggling and cursing in a month's time😀.

Well, it took just over a month but I must admit it was worth it. I really do appreciate Glenn, Tim and Maurice persuading me (against my better judgement, as I saw it) to rig all the guns. I honestly didn't think I could make an acceptable job of it, so I'm very grateful I was persuaded otherwise.

 

I love this forum!

 

Next I think I'll fit the rudder, then get on with shaping the spars.

 

Derek 

[JpR62]

Superb ! This battery of guns is absolutely magnificent ! The time invested was worth it 😉