HMS Cruiser by Wahka_est - Caldercraft - 1:64

[Wahka_est]

1 minute ago, ccoyle said:

I think that was SOP back in the day. I had to purchase extra material for tackles for Sherbourne.

What does SOP mean?

[ccoyle]

"Standard operating procedure." 😉

[Wahka_est]

Just now, ccoyle said:

"Standard operating procedure." 😉

Haha now it all makes sense

 

But like a said, i take it as big educational proccess for future builds. Learing how to do something and also why its there and how it really should look like.

[clearway]

yeah kit manufacturers can cut corners to suit their standard fittings (you have seen the fun keith s and i have had with occre's HMS Terror)!

 

Keith

[Wahka_est]

I started with Terror also but is has been put on side for now. The chainplate solution was terrible so ordered new ones.

Then i noticed how terrible my work was on ship quality wise - didnt like it at all. So started Cruiser. Much better quality here. At some point i will finish the Terror but not yet.

Doing the Terror i didnt even imagine you can go so crazy with the build like you guys are going.

 

What i see is that most of us pay 200 + eur for a kit and then replace most of the parts. WHY???? So total cost would be at least twice that.

Just send us drawings and false keel - we will take it from there

 

Vahur

[clearway]

i hear you there, sometimes think it might have been easier to just scratchbuild her, but your cruiser looks good keep up the good work.

 

Keith

[Wahka_est]

2 hours ago, clearway said:

i hear you there, sometimes think it might have been easier to just scratchbuild her, but your cruiser looks good keep up the good work.

 

Keith

Tnx Keith

Just need to order some extra parts. Have to go it trough once again, maybe im missing something else.

Wondering if i can attatch cannins after doing the ratlines etc.

[Thunder]

I would definitely complete the rig of the cannons before starting the rigging to the masts. It would be far to fiddly afterwards.

 

I think the kit only expects you to show  the breech rope, which is the thicker rope that goes around the Cascable. There are plenty of eyebolts in the kit to complete correctly, just not enough blocks.

 

One thing I did end up doing is removing the pumps from the base of the mast, they were in the way for completing the rigging.

 

I have used different thread sizes to the kit instructions but other than that have not ordered any extra parts. I expect to add rigging blocks as include more rigging than the kit suggests and modify depending on my research. I am away for two weeks now so do not have my sizes i can tell you that the main and fore mast stay sizes were increased, off top of head worked out at 1.27mm 'but don't quote me,' and I ran out of 0.25mm. I seem to have an abundance of other size threads in the kit which has always been the case with their kits in the past.

 

I would use your time waiting for your order to plan your rigging. I always used to do this in depth and thought I would get away with it this time. Unfortunately I have paid the price.

 

First thing to do is to check your order of the rigging, I then used to make notes of how to complete each step and do a more accurate belaying diagram. It is worth the effort. The kit drawings do not describe what each item is for so it is worth labelling. By checking James Lees most is correct but i didn't agree with all of it. 

[Thunder]

On 9/10/2020 at 7:58 PM, clearway said:

i hear you there, sometimes think it might have been easier to just scratchbuild her, but your cruiser looks good keep up the good work.

 

Keith

Trouble is, if your in the UK, is getting good quality timber to scratch build. You can buy the same as the kit but it is a costly job. Truith is I don't really even like the kit wood either and do not have room or facilities to mill my own.

 

This and accuracy is why I will be watching the Vanguard models so closely. For my kits purchased I really hope he starts selling timber or, even better, starts selling replacement timber packs for other manufacturers kits.

[Thunder]

THE ORDER OF DRESSING THE MASTS AND YARDS - HMB Cruiser 1796.docx

 

attached the order I rigged but remember I rigged the lower yard on the main mast as a cross jack, as you are depicting a later date you may want to rig as a sail carrying yard arm. The kit depicts a half way house calling it a cross jack but rigging Jeers.

[chris watton]

3 hours ago, Thunder said:

Trouble is, if your in the UK, is getting good quality timber to scratch build. You can buy the same as the kit but it is a costly job. Truith is I don't really even like the kit wood either and do not have room or facilities to mill my own.

 

This and accuracy is why I will be watching the Vanguard models so closely. For my kits purchased I really hope he starts selling timber or, even better, starts selling replacement timber packs for other manufacturers kits.

Not sure about selling timber packs for other kits, as what I buy is quite expensive and purchase enough for a set amount of kits.

 

However, after my next development, I do plan to develop a 'Cruiser-Like' brig, but not Cruiser Class, and will look similar (although curves are more agreeable), being an earlier brig (by only 2 years). It will have 16x32 pounder carronades and 2x6-pounder long guns, standard set up for brigs of this period.

[ccoyle]

3 hours ago, chris watton said:

I do plan to develop a 'Cruiser-Like' brig, but not Cruiser Class, and will look similar (although curves are more agreeable), being an earlier brig (by only 2 years).

That pretty much narrows down the possibilities!

[jwvolz]

On 9/9/2020 at 3:18 PM, Wahka_est said:

Thought it might be my kit as it has some curse on it-starting with replacing all wood as it was horrible, following wrong bulwarks as openings are now sized for carronades(Snakes it parts).

But it seems terrible wood is something others have said and Thunders build confirms that parts are missing for cannons.

 

I understand it was early designs etc but still for that much money. Now you can get superb kit from Chris for that.

 

But i take it as learning process-i have learned so mich with having little info. I search from books, builds etc. Soon i could concider muself little educated man  . I should take a picture of my library  

But you know you have to let that frustration out...cant do that home as wife doest not share that passion  she said it still will look pretty nice    

Stay with it!

 

There's a great model buried in there. I experienced some of the same frustrations with the kit, but ended up replacing a lot of things anyway so it didn't matter. You do hate to pay for sub-par product though...

[Wahka_est]

Tnx all for the input, specially Thunder as the mentors me in this build by giving good tips.

And to everyone else also by motivating.

 

I just sent in order for extra hooks. Hope to get them in 1-2 weeks. Cornwall didnt have them so took it directly from Jotika.

 

Until that point i will continue with a lot of small details still to do before rigging can actually start . Also im going to put cannons first before the rigging as proposed by all.

 

Vahur

 

[clearway]

for fittings there is also The Model Dockyard in the u,k, who ship overseas.

 

Keith

[Wahka_est]

12 hours ago, clearway said:

for fittings there is also The Model Dockyard in the u,k, who ship overseas.

 

Keith

Hi,

 

Know them also but Jotika was the only one who had those hooks in stock.

[clearway]

i think a lot of model shops are having problems due to manufacturing being messed up with this covid mess, same is happening with model railway suppliers.

 

Keith

[Wahka_est]

Some progress.

 

Finished rudder-not perfect but im happy as i have postponed it quite some time.

 

Mast have blocks now. It works when i dont dillutate pva.

 

Started with chainplates and as usual it wont fit. Strops if i call them right are about 3mm too shrot. Also checked Thunders build and yes im right here. Also strops need individual approach each as i understand. Will try to make new ones from brass wire and solder it together as it dont seem logical for them to be open.

Or should they be open?

[BenD]

The chain plate loops are supposed to be closed.  Using some wire and soldering your own is the best way to go about this.  Soldering kits are pretty cheap, even a $30 kit can get this done easily.

 

The Rudder looks good! 

[Thunder]

Hi. yes should be closed. To be honest it has annoyed me that I didn't make new ones ever since I fitted them as should not be hard to do. Also if you solder them there is less chance of them pulling open. If going to solder will be worth doing the bottom of the loop with the deadeye in as these are a bad design and will pull open the split being at the point of most importance.  

[jwvolz]

On my build I made several jigs of varying length to bend new wire loops for the chainplates. They can't all be the same length, due to the angles. There are pictures in my build log. 

[Thunder]

As my shrouds are rigged was considering replacing one at a time. the other shrouds and ratlines should keep everything in place whilst i do it. Then all should be perfect size. Would be very fiddly though. 

[Wahka_est]

38 minutes ago, Thunder said:

As my shrouds are rigged was considering replacing one at a time. the other shrouds and ratlines should keep everything in place whilst i do it. Then all should be perfect size. Would be very fiddly though. 

Thunder kit provides only 10 3,5mm deadeye rings. Need would be for 20. Did you use rigging line top mast top deadeye on platforms? Looked at books and it should be steel not rope.

[Wahka_est]

Also forgot one thing. Is it total 2 cleats on shrouds or 6? English isnt my 1st language so its little hard to understand.

[Thunder]

Hi,

 

I used rigging line for the topmast shrouds. Should be steel around deadeyes with metal plates through to just below top and hooks for futtock shrouds.

 

It is just two cleats to each of fore most shrouds on each mast for the topgallant yard lifts.

 

 

[clearway]

while i scratch built new chainplates for my victory to replace the billings fittings, i soldered the strop around the deadeye and the lower most link but didn't solder up the middle link (just made the link the twisted to one side to fit then bent back into shape). if you are only replacing the middle links i would recommend anealed iron craft wire which is stronger than brass. if you pull the links apart while rigging you have it too tight!

 

Keith

[Seahawk1313]

I would put cleats on all topmast shrouds, if you put sails or the rigging for sails, you will need belaying points.   Learned the hard way that I under estimate the number of belaying points that are needed- Hal

[Wahka_est]

Getting somewhere with cannons. I cant imagine if i should do 50.... its really timeconsuming.
 

Hooks have been shippe so hopefully will finish cannons and place them in few weeks.

 

[Wahka_est]

And the cannons have wheels...

Also decided to paint that steel rod black and fake ends also balck woth circle dots.

 

What would be optimal ring size that goes to eyelet and rooe from back of the cannon runs trough that? Smallest circle infound from hobby shop is 4mm but it too big in my opinion, should be 2-3mm.
 

Great find few days ago. My local handycraft, painting etc shop had great brushes with cheap prices so i got a bunch. 3 times cheaper than cheapest in hobby shop....

 

 

[Thunder]

Hi,

 

I am away so cannot measure what size i used at the moment. I know I probably gauged by eye as finding accurate sizes is near impossible. They are smaller than most people think if taking those on HMS Victory and HMS Trincomalee as a guide.

 

 

You can see on the attached that all but the breechings are a single loop so depends what detail you want to go to. Mine are all single loop. The kit sized eyelets on the etched sheet were a good size but think mine made from enamelled wire. If you have a set of miniature drill bits you can use the shaft to twist wire round and make any size you want.

 

Another source i am just investigating are eyed fishing hooks. You can buy down to size 26 which are tiny. Cut the eyelet off and use or use complete as hooks for rigging. Buy barbless. They come in different shapes of shaft as well as sizes. Cutting the eyes off two and gluing to a third with an eye also makes a nice little grapnel.