Pegasus by hdrinker - 1:48 - POF - Swan practicum

[tlevine]

You could try copper tubing or sterling silver tubing, patinated with liver of sulfur and then burnished.  The silver will look just like pewter but the copper is cheaper.

[hdrinker]

Thanks to you all for your recommendations. I actually tried using brass tubing cut at an angle and soldered to brass sheet. The sheet I trimmed to an oval and bent up on the top to create the angle between the waterway and sperketing. A recess was then cut around the hole in the hull into which the metal was set to create a flush fit. This was done in two sections, inboard and out. I had many solder failures until I learned to predrill the sheet, as the heat tended to melt the solder otherwise. The result isn’t too bad.

[hdrinker]

Just now, hdrinker said:

Thanks to you all for your recommendations. I actually tried using brass tubing cut at an angle and soldered to brass sheet. The sheet I trimmed to an oval and bent up on the top to create the angle between the waterway and sperketing. A recess was then cut around the hole in the hull into which the metal was set to create a flush fit. This was done in two sections, inboard and out. I had many solder failures until I learned to predrill the sheet, as the heat tended to melt the solder otherwise. The result isn’t too bad.

I’ll paint them . I also used a drill guide to line up the scupper holes correctly.

[hdrinker]

On 2/16/2023 at 7:13 AM, hdrinker said:

I’ll paint them . I also used a drill guide to line up the scupper holes correctly.

 

[hdrinker]

Hawes pipe liners, rudder and interior camp painting complete. 

[hdrinker]

On 2/22/2023 at 4:30 PM, hdrinker said:

Hawes pipe liners, rudder and interior camp painting complete. 

 

[hdrinker]

Starting the Brody Stove.

[hdrinker]

Starting the Brody Stove. Has anyone made the stove in metal? How does one solder tiny brass or copper pieces next to each other without melting what you just joined before? It can be impossible sometimes to apply a heat sink when the pieces are really close /together. Have tried silver solder but can’t get it to melt with my mini butane torch. 
Henry

[hdrinker]

Well, the stove was delayed until I figured out what soldering method would work best for me. Decided to tackle the chain pumps first. Wow! It took days of frustration trying to get everything lined up so the driving rods would passs through all the various bearings, more - less straight. Turned out to be less than more. But it was an opportunity to try out soldering tiny parts. Resistance soldering proved my favorite. I think I’m ready to tackle the stove. 
 

[hdrinker]

Well, this is as far as I got. When adding further details, it all fell apart! Any suggestions?

[hdrinker]

First real attempt. Very challenging! Inside grates didn’t line up correctly and things a bit askew, so am starting again.

[hdrinker]

[hdrinker]

Progress, although not of the standard set by Captain Giampierocicci!

[Kevin Kenny]

Really very hood Henry

[hdrinker]

Thanks Kevin. As it turned out, I used a blackening solution which after several applications undid much of the fine detailed soldering. So several steps back, I persist. But I no longer shake in fear at the soldering process. I’m using resistance soldering almost exclusively and find that with a sharpened tip, the heat can be applied to a very small area without threatening adjacent joints. When there’s an issue, yellow ochre paste applied to the joint at risk works well .

[hdrinker]

Beginning work on the stern lights while I await delivery of narrower brass rod for turning cannon barrels. 

[hdrinker]

Cannon barrels turned on my MicroMark mini lathe using a follower set up. They’re not as exactly identical as those made from a casting but once blackened it’s difficult to tell.

[dvm27]

With so many commercial CNC brass cannons available now I give you full credit for making a set of your own!

[hdrinker]

Second iteration of the stove, the first not fitting between decks well. Ready to begin blackening the cannons.

[hdrinker]

Taking encouragement from Kevin Kenny, I embarked on the scrolls with some satisfaction in the results.

[hdrinker]

Transom lites and mouldings.

[hdrinker]

Have started the gun carriage tackle. Not including the hardware on the carriages themselves, there are a total 96 blocks, 96 eye hooks and 80 ring bolts. All to be blackened and lacquered. A daunting task of which making the metallic components alone occupied the day today and will do so for another several days for blackening, etc. Haven’t begun the blocks.

[druxey]

Those look very neatly done. Just repeat after me; "I'm glad this isn't a 74 gun ship." There, isn't that better?

[Kevin Kenny]

I just love this hobby. Keep at it Henry

[hdrinker]

After guns and lids done. Preliminary quarter deck beam fitting.

[hdrinker]

Aft bulkheads added. I found these a challenge. The construction varied a little from the book. I found it worked OK to use holly of the prescribed thickness and make the beveled panels with a #11 blade cut in at an angle. Getting the right fit to the inner sides was done first for the fore and aft bulkheads using heavy cardboard. These were then incorporated into a cardboard blank which provided an exact pattern of the whole bulkhead. The section and panel lines could then be drawn on this template. I used the band saw to cut the sections so the kerf of the saw blade had to be considered, as subsequent assembly of the various sections together would otherwise result in a shortened bulkhead. So a new pattern was made in cardboard redrawn to a greater length with the kerf lines added. The pattern was then transferred to a wooden blank with all the lines drawn and the sections and doors cut out. The result was a pair of bulkheads very close to the necessary width with the lines for the panels straight all across. 
 

The final challenge involved the fore and aft bulkhead between the transverse bulkheads. This joins the transverse bulkheads at the inner frames of the starboard doors and is meant to be parallel to the center line of the model. To accomplish this, the starboard doors of the transverse bulkheads need to line up with each other accordingly. This required that the door positions of those bulkheads be drawn in the right location initially. That location, moreover, needs to be close enough to the center line to accommodate the ring bolt of the gun tackle between those two bulkheads. I admit to not being aware of this last detail when I drew the original lines for the doors and panels. As a result, my fore and aft bulkhead does not lie parallel to the center line. Not a big deal since it won’t be seen anyway. But for the perfectionist these considerations might avoid redoing the bulkheads after the matter is discovered.

It will be noted in the second image that the gun port lid tackle has been added only for the port gun lids.

 

My plan is to tackle the focs’l next before completing the deck beam construction.

[hdrinker]

Further progress .

[Kevin Kenny]

You are going along at a rate . Well done

[hdrinker]

Stove cowl and baffle.

[hdrinker]

I put the cowl away somewhere so I wouldn’t lose it, and of course, I couldn’t find it…..so, made a second one.

They’re soldered brass made over a dowel template which I left within.