Cutty Sark by NenadM

[Piet]

Yup, that's the learning curve most of us go through from time to time.  You'll get there Nenad and it'll look great in the end.

 

Cheers,

[cog]

Nenad,

 

Even if you go from 4 to 3 mm - which is a lot at he scale you are building - you'll have them to close up to each other still with the 0.5mm wire ... You'll need to sink the wire deeper in the dead eye to, so only half or less shows ... or replace the wire with still thinner ... you could use, for instance, the copper wires from a network/telephone cable ... twist 2 or 3 together ...

[NenadM]

Nenad,

 

Even if you go from 4 to 3 mm - which is a lot at he scale you are building - you'll have them to close up to each other still with the 0.5mm wire ... You'll need to sink the wire deeper in the dead eye to, so only half or less shows ... or replace the wire with still thinner ... you could use, for instance, the copper wires from a network/telephone cable ... twist 2 or 3 together ...

 

 

Thanks Carl for your input. Many options are around me right now. I`ll make some 3 mm dia dead-eyes tests with 0,5 mm Cu wire, and we`ll see how it will look.

 

I was considering your solution, and, If I can, I`d rather keep 0,5 mm wire -  it visually fits better with 0,5 mm Cu wire holder under rail, and it is, for sure, stronger than couple of twisted thinner Cu wires. With all ratlines on place, there will be constant force pulling them up, and I do not dare to make something which visually fits, but which is not strong enough and can crack at any time

 

Anyhow, it is impossible to follow right proportion published by Campbell on his plans in scale 1:100

 

Mr. Campbell on his drawings shows dead-eyes with dia: 10", 9", 7" and 6". That means :

 

 

And that means that even 3mm dia dead eye is too large. We agree that 3mm with three holes inside is really small devil 

Edited June 10, 2016 by Nenad

[cog]

Nenad,

 

You are dead right!

[popeye the sailor]

too bad you can't simply  fashion wire with an eye bolt on the end.   I found these at the jewelry dept of my favorite craft store.....

 

 

run these though the pin rail and into the deck,  positioned in such a way that will allow the dead eye to pivot and make room for each other.   they will find their own center and hopefully solve most,  if not all of the problem  

 

BTW.........I can get these in any metal style........copper,  steel.........antiqued........and at different lengths too  

[NenadM]

Thanks for your input, Denis. Did you know - you are not only stuborn builder on MSW!

 

Alea iacta est !!!

 

3mm fit well, and I think this is a limit

 

 

[NenadM]

First 25 ( for one side)

 

[mtaylor]

There is more than one stubborn builder here?     I'm shocked.  Shocked I tell you!      

 

That looks like a great solution to the problem, Nenad.   

Edited June 10, 2016 by mtaylor

[Gerhardvienna]

Lookin`good friend! You are on a good way!

 

Regards

Gerhard

[cog]

You did it Nenad. The first two look good, the first twenty five as good as those initial one's

[NenadM]

All 50 done. Next is CA in microscopic drops and coloring

 

 

Edited June 11, 2016 by Nenad

[omarcs]

You have a picture of the deck and what struck me is that is what it looks like - a worn deck. Everything it the photo looks right.

 

You just keep raising the bar!

 

Omar

[NenadM]

Thanks Omar for nice words

 

Move forward to final look of dead eyes

 

 

 

 

CA drop - done. Re-drilling holes - done. Coloring wood - done. Coloring wire - started. Follow nice fiting of holes and applying mat acrylic transparent warnish.

 

It is raining whole day, and no work in homeyard can be done. After 2+3 hours of looking throught magnifier, my eyes dropped somewhere, which told me to stop.

Edited June 12, 2016 by Nenad

[CaptainSteve]

Your stubbornness has paid off, Nenad. Those 3mm dead-eyes look good !!

[mtaylor]

So both you and Her Majesty have dead eyes?    Yes, it's time to quit for the day when your eyes go dead.   Looking pretty great, Nenad.

[NenadM]

My eyes are recycled, and all 50 pieces have got white collars

 

[Gerhardvienna]

Hi Nenad

 

I always must remind me of the scale you are doing this! Unbelievable to do it on that small things!

 

Regards

Gerhard

[NenadM]

Thanks Gerhard.

 

I expect to be more easy from today.

 

A new tool arrived at evening ...

 

[Sailor1234567890]

Awesome. That will come in handy for sure. Now that you're done so much small fiddly stuff.

[Piet]

Awesome looking dead eyes Nenad.  They do look like the real thing. 

 

Cheers,

 

[cog]

New job, Nenad ... Gold-/silversmith? Seems to me a nice extension for the fiddly work you are doing!

 

Cheers

[NenadM]

Proudly present upgraded man's cave

 

 

Professional tool. My eyes celebrate ! Old one you can see on back

Edited June 14, 2016 by Nenad

[usedtosail]

At the scale you are working Nenad I am really impressed that it has taken you this long to get one of those. Have fun with it, it should make your work a whole lot easier.

[NenadM]

I am proud to announce: left side of fore mast dead eyes - mounted and glued, after mat warnishing and correcting of holes. Much much easier and more comfort with my new magnifier

 

I am satisfied, it has almost the same look and feel as on photos. Efforts payed off every minute I spent in do/redo works

 

Target

 

 

Result

 

 

Under rail look

 

 

 

Bird sight. All in straight line

 

 

And scale

 

 

Cleaning and color correction has to be done after all dead eyes mounting

[usedtosail]

Wow, that looks great. You have done a fine job indeed.

[mtaylor]

Spectacular, Nenad.   The rework was worth it.

[cog]

Do the redo-do ... you are right, it looks terrific, Nenad. If that's he result that magnifying glass gives you, yuo've raised the bar for yourself, and we will expect even more stunning workmanship from you

[Piet]

Fantastic looking row of dead eyes Nenad. 

 

I deleted two paragraphs to my message yesterday regarding Carl's comment on using 2 each 0.1 mm copper wires twisted together for your dead eyes.  Reason being that I didn't run a test myself but made an educated assumption on the 0.1 mm wire.  I meant it be for general information in case someone wants to use it, or even you Nenad.  I am also a certificated metallurgist, a little rusty right now but still know enough.

 

In any case, I stated that the 0.1 mm copper wire could easily take the strain of the rigging and certainly 2 of them twisted together.

I first twisted two two of the 0.1 copper wires together and they measured 0.5 mm!  Conclusion?  Use your 0.5 mm wire, case closed.

 

Okay, now I wanted to know whether my educated guess was correct.  I ran one strand through a 2 mm single pulley block I had made for my VOC ship, twisted the ends together and spot-soldered it close to the pulley.  The twist length was only 2 mm.  I put the pulley in my vice and clipped two vice grips to the other end.  The weight of the vice grips is 1.5 US pounds or 0.68 kg.  I even tugged on it and the wire held.

 

The point is that yes indeed, 0.1 mm copper wire is strong enough.  The next question is the holding power of the cement used to cement the wire into the deck.  I don't think there is an issue with using CA to cement the wire at the dead eye end.  A double or triple twist-end can be made where it goes into the deck for better holding power.

 

Having said all this your decision to use the 0.5 copper wire is the right decision for you.  Copper wire at that small size is rather delicate and can't stand much abuse.  I would use 0.1 or 0.2 brass wire for the added strength.  If you can't get brass wire then again, your decision is the right one.

 

Here are two pics I took this morning of my test as proof of what I am telling you.  Sorry to hijack your log but let's look at it as an educational dissertation

 

This shows the test setup with two vice grips clamped to the end of one single 0.1 mm copper wire.

 

This is a close-up of the small pulley in the vice with the copper wire attached to it.

 

Cheers,

[NenadM]

Thank Piet for this very usefull imput. Let it stay here !!! No hijack!

Just wait for me to find something and I'll continue posting ...

Ok, I'm back

I had to dive deep in my log, to the section where I was playing making tests trying to make boomkin with chain ( post #1601 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad/page-81#entry257937 )

Chain, if you can call it so, was made from two 0,1 mm twisted Cu wires, and second attempt was made with knots on those thin wires, trying to simulate chain rings, and yes, it is quite strong. Very very strong







Testing this "structure" I forced "boomkin's" chain with some imaginary rope lines, and it holds very well

My decision to use 0,5 mm wire for dead eyes was aesthetic, not technological. With 0,5 mm wire colored white, it looks better simulating white rounded cackle on dead-eyes. Just a bit more visible, and that was my goal, to have this nice detail

Dead eye strops are glued in their holes on deck with drop of CA, dead eyes are also glued with CA drop, by thiny drop in holes on rail. I think it will be strong enough

On the other side, thinking about further rigging, and watching my photo collection, I noticed some chain lines along masts, not ropes, and I am seriously considering possibility to use twisted 0,1 wire to simulate this vertical chains 0,2-0,4 mm dia, which I doubt I can find on market



Still far from now, but it is usefull to know strenght of Cu wire, even 0,2 mm thick

Thanjs again, my friend. Very usefull

Edited June 15, 2016 by Nenad

[Sailor1234567890]

Those chains are likely tops'l sheets. Since there are two, I'd say there's a pair for the upper tops'l sheets and a pair for the lower tops'l sheets but Campbell's I'm pretty sure shows which ones they are. Lower tops'ls for sure though, they were pretty much set when the ship sailed and never furled until she arrived at her destination. They were the first set when sailing and last ones taken in when the weather blew up. I may be wrong but I think some of the big 4 post cape horners didn't even have lower tops'l sheets, they simply shackled the sail to the course yard below it. I may be wrong on that though.

 

There are some interesting details in that image. There's a spectacle plate (also known as a monkey face plate. Has the large ring with two smaller rings on top. It's in the top of the image, just left of center) in there which would have been fitted to the corner of the sail. As it stands, it only has sheets and clewlines fastened to it with no sail bent on. The riveted iron of the mast is clearly shown as well. On the left of the image there's a wooden hook fastened to the forward most shroud of the starboard main gang of shrouds on the outboard side. This was to keep the sheets from dragging in the water. All the way to the right is a spar on the boat boom. There's some sort of fitting on the end which leads me to believe it may be a stuns'l boom. Not sure though, there's not much to go on. It's not a bare spar though.

Edited June 15, 2016 by Sailor1234567890