HMS Fly by Starlight - Amati/Victory Models - 1:64 - first build

[Richard44]

Very well done with the margin plank. I'm glad my suggestion worked for you.

 

Cheers

[TimC]

Awesome planking!  Looks great, very clean and crisp 

 

 

[starlight]

Thanks Richard and Tim for your kind words.

 

I made some progress on the gunport strips, with three rounds of soaking and shaping. Am hoping to get some feedback before I glue them on. I ended up trimming around 3mm off of the front ends. Here's what I have so far:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 8, 2020 by starlight

[TimC]

4 minutes ago, starlight said:

Thanks Richard and Tim for your kind words.

 

I made some progress on the gunport strips, with three rounds of soaking and shaping. Am hoping to get some feedback before I glue them on. I ended up trimming around 3mm off of the front ends. Here's what I have so far:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looking good! I had to trim a bit off of the front as well then reshape the sprite hole. I ended up pre gluing the jig saw before putting it in place the final time.  No idea if that was smart or not but it’s on there.  Before final gluing I ended up half cutting the bulkhead posts that are removed later on.  I felt like cutting after everything was on there would have been difficult to do cleanly   
 

anyway it looks great to my eye! 

[Richard44]

That looks very good Starlight. Like you, Tim and many others, I had to trim a few mm off the front of the patterns and redo the hole for the bowsprit. And like Tim, I slightly cut the outside edge of the bulkheads that have to be removed before gluing the patterns in place.

 

Cheers

[mugje]

Looks good indeed! If you need more curve in the middle, you can always use some planks between the clamp and the strips. But maybe that isn't necessary...it is a bit hard to tell on the photos.

[TimC]

8 hours ago, Richard44 said:

That looks very good Starlight. Like you, Tim and many others, I had to trim a few mm off the front of the patterns and redo the hole for the bowsprit. And like Tim, I slightly cut the outside edge of the bulkheads that have to be removed before gluing the patterns in place.

 

Cheers

You’re probably where I got the idea from!  I’m doing it and I’m sitting there like where the hell did I get this idea from? Fantastic advice.  Made it much easier I suspect 

[starlight]

Thanks to everyone who commented.

 

On 11/8/2020 at 12:44 AM, TimC said:

Before final gluing I ended up half cutting the bulkhead posts that are removed later on.

 

On 11/8/2020 at 1:13 AM, Richard44 said:

And like Tim, I slightly cut the outside edge of the bulkheads that have to be removed before gluing the patterns in place.

@Tim, Richard: I appreciate the reminder to cut the outside of the 3 waist bulkheads before gluing. I'll have to buy a flush-cutting saw when it comes time to remove them...

 

On 11/8/2020 at 2:46 AM, mugje said:

If you need more curve in the middle, you can always use some planks between the clamp and the strips.

@mugje, I followed your suggestion and it worked quite well. There is some curvature at the bow that I found difficult to clamp, but I'm happy with how things turned out overall.

 

On 11/8/2020 at 9:21 AM, SpyGlass said:

If you havent glued yet - the jigsaw joint may be just a teeny bit too far back  - perhaps shift it forward a tad so just mm of so of the BH shows - but it only a little bit so may not matter. Maybe dry fit the beams and quarter deck and ensure the "break" in the gunport strips matches the start of the upper deck

@SpyGlass: Thanks once again for your expert advice. I think I managed to move them forward about half a mm, but then I started to feel that further fiddling was only making it look worse. I dry fitted the upper decks and the start of the quarter deck is roughly in the middle of the "step" in the gunport strips (at BH 8), which is I think how it should be?

 

After gluing I had some slight waviness along the bottom of the strips. It's hard to see at a glance and difficult to fix, so I'll probably have to leave it as is. As well, the upper part of the strips are slightly separated from the waist bulkheads, since there was no glue to hold them in place. For the most part, I'm happy with how they turned out though.

 

Anyways, here are some pictures. Am hoping to start the hull planking next week.

 

-starlight

 

 

 

[TimC]

20 minutes ago, starlight said:

After gluing I had some slight waviness along the bottom of the strips. It's hard to see at a glance and difficult to fix, so I'll probably have to leave it as is.

Looks great!  Everything appears lined up nicely including your cannon compared to the strips.  And don’t worry about the wave at the bottom.  Mine had the same thing but with the thickness of the first planking layer you’ll be able to sand it down flush extremely easily.  Keep Up the great work !!

[Richard44]

It all looks really good.

 

If you did half cut from the outside the three bulkhead extensions, you shouldn't need a flush-cutting saw to remove them. A simple twist with pliers and they should snap off quite cleanly. A sanding stick smooths the broken tops, then you finish your deck planking over them.

[starlight]

Hi all,

 

Finally finished the 1st planking. It's certainly not a work of art but it still turned out better than I had hoped. Some notes:

• Unfortunately I did not fair BH 12 enough and I ended up with a kink at the stern curve
• I only used water to form the strakes (no steam, iron, etc.)
• No CA glue, just PVA and temporary pins
• 3 small stealers per side used at the stern, none at the bow, no drop planks

Pictures below. Will spend some time sanding and filling before moving on.

 

 

 

[Richard44]

That looks good Starlight - well done.

[starlight]

Thanks to everyone who has been following along so far. I am with family for the holidays so please excuse the change in background.

 

I finally finished sanding the 1st planking to a state that I am reasonably happy with:

 

 

 

 

I have been slowly working up the courage to start the 2nd planking. In preparation for this, I glued on the rudder post and stern counter:

 

 

Then I tried my best to lay out the main wale using the kit-suggested method of measuring down from the gunports, followed by pinning a temporary strip along the profile. The bottom edge of the strip represents the top edge of the main wale. I would certainly appreciate any comments on the placement of this feature.

 

 

 

Thanks again to all and happy holidays.

 

-starlight

[Richard44]

As far as I can tell from the photos, you seem to have the wale positioned correctly. A build log from some time ago warned not to get the wale too high at the stern, otherwise the quarterlight won't fit - you may want to check this.

[starlight]

Hello to all,

 

I have not been able to dedicate much time to my ship since my last update, and I can see that I have fallen behind significantly compared to the other Fly/Pegasus modelmakers.

 

I am slowly progressing on the second planking, although by my reckoning I am only averaging one strake per side per week. I fear I will be stuck on this stage of the build for quite some time. Pictures below.

 

-starlight

 

 

[TimC]

What you’ve done so far is looking great! Don’t worry about speed , just enjoy when you have time! 
 

Tim 

[starlight]

Hello all,

 

I have made very slow progress these past few months but I am finally finished the second planking below the main wale. Pictures below.

 

-starlight

 

 

 

 

[starlight]

Hello all,

 

I've made some more slow progress these past few months.

 

I decided to add the two additional sweep ports on each side:

 

  

 

 

I then completed the outside second planking above the main wale. I decided (against the wise advice of Richard44) to do the outside planking first before the inner bulwarks. My justification was that I could keep using the bulkhead tabs for more stable clamping. I'll have to live with this decision when it comes time to drill holes on the inside.

 

 

 

I made a little key from some of the walnut strip to verify the size of the sweep ports:

 

 

I have two major concerns about the work I've done so far. Firstly, I was not able to get the proper curvature at the bow. Is it worth trying to force the plywood and walnut into position?

 

 

Secondly, I'm not sure how to terminate the walnut planking at the stern. In particular, how does the intermediate section between the stern counter and gallery look? Any resources would be appreciated.

 

 

After these two issues are addressed I'm still a bit unsure on the best way to proceed:

• Do I stain/seal the hull?
• Do I break off the bulkhead tabs and complete the deck planking?
• Do I fit the stern gallery?

Regardless, I will probably spend some time filling and sanding before moving on. Thanks to all for looking in, and I would appreciate any and all advice.

 

-starlight

 

 

[Richard44]

10 hours ago, starlight said:

Is it worth trying to force the plywood and walnut into position?

Probably not.  Maybe the ply/walnut could be trimmed to shorten them and thus close the gap, but I certainly wouldn't force them into place. This would probably result in a disaster sometime later as the glue gives up. So long as the ply/walnut fits correctly elsewhere, then planking the deck will eliminate the gap.

 

10 hours ago, starlight said:

Secondly, I'm not sure how to terminate the walnut planking at the stern.

I'm not quite sure what you're asking. The side planking should overlap the planking of the upper and lower counters. Above those you have the stern fascia (this may be what you are calling the gallery)  which itself extends out to the side and so overlaps the side planking.

 

I would next plank the decks, only because you'll be able to run the Qdeck planks out over the stern, if the fascia is not in place, and so easily trim them to length.  Then the fascia (?gallery) and finish the hull. 

 

All I can really say about the order in which you do things is - think it through and preferably several steps ahead.

 

You're doing well, keep it up.

 

Cheers.

[starlight]

Richard, thank you for the kind words and for continuing to help a novice such as myself. If I could ask a few questions about your reply:

 

9 hours ago, Richard44 said:

I'm not quite sure what you're asking. The side planking should overlap the planking of the upper and lower counters. Above those you have the stern fascia (this may be what you are calling the gallery)  which itself extends out to the side and so overlaps the side planking.

 

Do forgive my ignorance of the correct terminology. For some reason I thought that the piece with the windows was called a gallery...

 

If I may show this picture from your build log:

 

 

I believe the circled feature is the upper counter(?), which sits between the two kit-supplied pieces for the lower counter and the stern fascia. If I understand correctly, this piece must be made to size out of the walnut strip. Therefore my question is, how high is the fascia supposed to sit? The kit instructions are rather light on detail regarding this aspect. Also, is there any info on these moulding strips that separate each section?

 

10 hours ago, Richard44 said:

I would next plank the decks, only because you'll be able to run the Qdeck planks out over the stern, if the fascia is not in place, and so easily trim them to length.  Then the fascia (?gallery) and finish the hull.

 

If I plank the quarterdeck (and foredeck?), will I be able to remove them afterwards to complete the fittings underneath? I will have to go through your build log again to see how you've done it.

 

10 hours ago, Richard44 said:

All I can really say about the order in which you do things is - think it through and preferably several steps ahead.

 

I am very much trying to think several steps ahead as you say, although this usually results in a paralysis of action: in which I am too afraid to start a new task for fear of overlooking something crucial.

 

Thanks again,

starlight

[Richard44]

9 hours ago, starlight said:

I believe the circled feature is the upper counter

That's right it is. The first image, from a Pegasus plan, shows the the fascia and both counters (excuse the poor "straight" lines 🙂).  In the second image, of your model, the lower extent of the fascia is shown by the red circles - not all of which are in exactly the right place, but you'll get the idea. Dry fit the fascia until you're happy with its placement. Some slight sanding of the four stern extensions may be required.

 

 

For the moulding strips that seperate the different pieces, you could use 1mm square strip. I actually used 2mm square strips that I shaped using a tool made from a Stanley knife blade. I cut a profile in the blade using a Dremel with a cut-off wheel , but files could also be used. The image shows the blade with two profiles and a piece of strip with a profile cut in it. Simply drag the blade along the wood till you get the profile you want.

 

 

Once you plank the decks you won't be able to remove them. Everything that you need/want on the upper deck has to be in place before you finally fix the ply false fore and quarter decks and plank them. This importantly includes the cannons that will be hidden by the fore and quarter decks.

 

"Paralysis by analysis" strikes most of us at some stage 😁.

 

Cheers

 

 

 

[starlight]

Hello all,

 

I completed the planking of the main deck. I decided to add a margin plank with the scarph joints as others have done. Made numerous mistakes creating them and they're still not perfect, but probably as good as I can get with hand tools. During the process I realized that I had forgotten to account for the thickness of the inner bulwark planking on the previously-completed margin planks, but fortunately those are hidden under the upper decks. The new scarph joints are offset inward slightly to account for the bulwark planking.

 

 

 

 

Next, I decided to follow many other modelers again and create a stove. Special thanks to @Blue Ensign for allowing me to copy his Pegasus stove based on his build log photos. I decided to 3D print most of the stove.

 

CAD model that I made:

 

Print sitting on the build plate with supports still attached:

 

Stove with supports removed:

 

I will now work on adding handles, the firebox grill, the exhaust pipe, etc., and then painting the stove.

 

-starlight

Edited October 6, 2021 by starlight

[Blue Ensign]

Neatly cut scarph joints starlight, and your stove looks excellent, well done.

 

B.E.

[JimArr]

I am new to the forum and have been admiring all the beautiful builds of the Fly and Pegasus.  Encouraged enough to purchase the Fly myself.  I am to the point where I am about to glue the rear gunport strips in place but find that they are quite a bit longer than the end of my hull.  Is this normal?

 

Thanks

Jim

[JimArr]

Thanks for the quick reply.  Alas,  too late to trim the fore strips.  I have already glued them on.   Should I just trim the rear strips towards the fore where the jigsaw puzzle pieces fit.  Or in other words, make new jigsaw cuts so that the ends line up with the end of the stern.  

 

Jim

[starlight]

Hello all,

 

Life has gotten in the way these past few months but I am finally able to work on the Fly once again.

 

After some discussion in another thread I settled on Vallejo Red (70.926) for painting of the inner bulwarks.

 

Some progress pictures below of lining the inner bulwarks. I followed the kit instructions of painting the lowest walnut strip before installing. I won't bother to plank the small gap between the first two bulkheads.

 

 

 

 

Next I will spend some time opening up the gun/sweep ports again.

 

-starlight

[starlight]

Hello all,

 

I have been steadily working away at filing out the ports. As a diversion, I decided to make a little captain to help visualize the scale of the project.

 

I found some excellent paid and free 3D models from Alf Scherer here: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-sailors-and-officers-to-crew-model-ships-1750-1820-130700

 

I chose one of the English officer designs to print. It was originally modelled for 1:72 scale so I simply scaled it up for 1:64. Here is what the STL looks like:

 

 

Below is the printed figure before painting. It stands at around 27 mm tall.

 

 

Here is my attempt at brush-painting with Tamiya acrylics. I tried to depict him as a commander (as would befit a small sloop-of-war) circa 1800. Unfortunately the details look a bit muddled in the photo, so I will try to obtain a macro lens or something.

 

 

Any comments are appreciated.

 

-starlight

[Moonbug]

I think he looks great!

[starlight]

After a lengthy process I have finally finished cutting out and squaring up the gunports and sweeps. I learned halfway through that the upper/lower faces of the ports are supposed to be perpendicular to the center plane, instead of angled perpendicular to the hull surface... (see the late Dan Vadas' Vulture build for clarification).

 

 

I am now proceeding with lining the ports with stops (another excursion from the kit instructions). I am using the kit-supplied Tanganyika here. It's very difficult to work with but is the only material I have of suitable thickness. I chose to leave the external planking unpainted (something I took from aliluke's build) to provide some highlighting contrast for this detail. Contrary to most other builders, I find the sweeps easier to do than the gun ports...

 

 

Thanks to all who continue to follow my slow progress.

 

-starlight

[starlight]

I finished lining all the gun and sweep ports, and gave the inner bulwarks a coat of paint. With this larger surface now painted I am not satisfied with the colour... it looks overly cherry-red in the daylight. I will probably spend some more time looking for a replacement.

 

 

-starlight