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Fifie by GBModeler - FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - Typical late 1800s Scottish Herring Drifter


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Very good paint job! Impressive.

I'm having troubles visualizing the size of the model. Can you add something for reference. A ruler will do 🙂 

 

 

Happy modelling!

Håkan

__________________________________________

 

Current build: Atlantica by Wintergreen

Previous builds

Kågen by Wintergreen

Regina by Wintergreen

Sea of Galilee boat, first century, sort of...

Billing Boats Wasa

Gallery:

Kågen (Cog, kaeg) by Wintergreen - 1:30Billing Boats Regina - 1:30Billing Boats Dana

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'Lothian Lass' is looking very good, with lots of very interesting and creative features.

 

Part of my family also comes from Leith and I have many fond memories of spending time there with my grandparents.

 

Richard

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11 hours ago, Gbmodeler said:

Also applied the registration number (LH 5) for Leith (Edinburgh), Scotland and dubbed her the "Lothian Lass."

Very nice work, it's got that 'working boat' feel all over it.

Good job on the lettering, can I ask how you did it?

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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2 hours ago, bruce d said:

Very nice work, it's got that 'working boat' feel all over it.

Good job on the lettering, can I ask how you did it?

Thanks Bruce D!  The lettering is made from water-slide decals from Microscale.  They are individual letters and numbers made for model railroads, and come in various sizes, fonts, and colors.

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There are lots of examples, just search for 'ropewalk'. It's not difficult and a ropewalk can be improvised easily - the guys of old also used 'home-spun' ropewalks. Properly done 'rope' is much tighter and better 'defined'. Particularly in the larger scale you are working in, this is quite visible. I think it would add a lot of extra value to your nice boats.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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Really nice boat and a lot of small "extras". Love it!

 

And may I salute Scotland for their historic win over the England today?

I didn't watch the game, but the Admiral yelled her lungs out when the whistle blew.

Happy modelling!

Håkan

__________________________________________

 

Current build: Atlantica by Wintergreen

Previous builds

Kågen by Wintergreen

Regina by Wintergreen

Sea of Galilee boat, first century, sort of...

Billing Boats Wasa

Gallery:

Kågen (Cog, kaeg) by Wintergreen - 1:30Billing Boats Regina - 1:30Billing Boats Dana

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10 hours ago, wefalck said:

There are lots of examples, just search for 'ropewalk'. It's not difficult and a ropewalk can be improvised easily - the guys of old also used 'home-spun' ropewalks. Properly done 'rope' is much tighter and better 'defined'. Particularly in the larger scale you are working in, this is quite visible. I think it would add a lot of extra value to your nice boats.

Thanks for the hints Wefalck!  You always have very constructive comments.

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Sail making has begun.  As I have shown on previous builds, it starts with cutting 15mm wide strips of graphic marker paper and gluing them together with diluted PA glue.  The overlapping seams are 1mm wide.

 

4925B8C1-FF79-4FFF-8E41-4181C8575CEB.jpeg
 

I embed wire under edge-trim pieces along the leech (sail's back edge) and the foot (sail bottom edge).  The wire can be bent later, to make it appear the sails are filled with wind.

25F36C52-0535-41D4-9860-124B13ECC58B.jpeg


I also embed loops of rope at the corners for clews.  Here the fit is being tested...

2C020355-BA87-4C05-9C07-C80D60EA6900.thumb.jpeg.821fb29a50168d38e7b974a81df24851.jpeg

 

Next, the sails are colored, if needed.  In this case a rusty mix of Tamiya acrylic model paint was airbrushed over the sails...

D82E9969-9393-4F3D-B362-93C2C78E282B.thumb.jpeg.f7388c7817281b6829f513d213d98b40.jpeg

 

C9E87AAD-058B-4289-B658-DE176D03EE3E.jpeg

Edited by Gbmodeler
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After painting the sails, boat registry numbers were applied with dry transfer rub-on lettering.  Then, burnt umber powdered pigment was gently rubbed-in with a makeup brush.  This darkened the color and enhanced the highlights and recesses. 

63D584B4-50DB-46B3-8972-4C56CEE2175B.jpeg

27E13E1D-EA9A-40C2-BDD2-FAA0F86E21EE.jpeg
 

I poked holes at appropriate locations for installation of reef lines.  I find installing the reef lines very tedious business, but necessary...

AEEBEEBC-CCBA-49B5-B384-71BC726A037B.jpeg


A knot is tied and the line is threaded through the hole

211A6FE0-C2C3-4595-A9EB-653CF345704C.jpeg

 

Another knot is tied on the opposite side.  

D3A9261B-34D2-4A2C-8BC5-2F44E513E327.jpeg


The reef lines formed on both sides are extra long, to accommodate trimming later...

83078069-CB36-4A1D-BA43-A4D1FDDB7678.jpeg

 

Trimming the lines to equal lengths by using scissors and a piece of plastic tube, as a guide...

90C05522-1DBF-4A03-8D51-7BE55122CF74.jpeg
 

The lines will be glued down with diluted PA glue, in the direction of gravity.

E006E383-4A94-4568-826D-1D3FA695C794.jpeg

Edited by Gbmodeler
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Your sails are really great.  Can you describe the paper you used in a bit more detail?  Also, I’m wondering how you attached the wire to the foot and the leech.  Beautiful, GB.  Thanks!

 

Erik K. Evens

Architect and sailor

Evens Architects

 

Currently building:  Brig Sloop HMS Flirt - Vanguard Models

Completed"Lady Isabella" Scottish Fishing Zulu - Vanguard Models

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10 hours ago, EKE said:

Your sails are really great.  Can you describe the paper you used in a bit more detail?  Also, I’m wondering how you attached the wire to the foot and the leech.  Beautiful, GB.  Thanks!

 

Thanks EKE.  Here's some more info on the sail building...
 

I found this graphic marker paper makes great raw material for sails...

3855EE3E-A284-4161-8DB6-8B639AB5677D.jpeg
 

Cutting the strips...

DA4A68B1-4284-4709-AC5E-D7BE21625A01.jpeg
 

I find taping everything down before gluing helps to keep the panel lines even.  Gluing is done with diluted white (PA) glue applied with a small brush.  Excess glue is "dabbed" off (NOT rubbed) with cotton swabs...

0ABA3E48-3EEE-41D6-9ABF-1785406D70D1.jpeg
 

A finished sheet.  At this stage, I sometimes have to go back and re-glue short segments of seams that did not stick with the initial gluing...

A20845DA-3D9E-4586-8BD6-4851FD0DC5A7.jpeg
 

I use patterns cut from copier paper (not shown) to get the final sail size and shape before I cut out the sail from the sheet.  At this point, I sometimes put the sail between two paper towels and hit them with stream from a clothes iron to give them a little wrinkled texture.  You have to be careful because the steam can re-activate the glue and make it stick to the paper towels a little.  The paper towels protect the sails from direct contact with the iron.  Don't want to get glue on the iron!

031389E9-0610-4C84-B7F7-8AAE074689CE.jpeg
 

I use strips of the graphic marker paper, folded in half ( the long way), as edge trim pieces.  Both the wire and/or rope loops can be glued inside the seams.  The trim is glued with the same diluted white glue.  That's it!

B02460DA-45F3-4534-9003-F6FA528A6CB7.jpeg
 

 

66ED4B8D-E3DD-4969-96C4-A65CEEE3CF3F.jpeg

 

 

003B7C35-9F9C-4B0C-A91C-9C2BE20D474F.jpeg

Edited by Gbmodeler
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Americans determine the weight of paper (and hence indirectly its approximative thickness) quite differently from us Europeans. They just give the weight, while we use grammes per square-metre (g/m^2). The weight is measured for a ream of 500 sheets of the paper in questions.

 

Taking your layout-paper, I arrive at the following conversion: 0.229 m x 0.0305 m x 500 = 34.9 m^2. Dividing the weight, i.e. 13.5 x 455 g = 6142.5 g by 34.9 m^2, I arrive at 176 g/m^2, if my arithmetics are correct. This is in fact a very heavy paper for the purpose ... I am rather surprised.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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GB, thanks for your great description of sail making. I had a lot of trouble fixing the reef lines on my previous Emma Berry. Finally, I did exactly whaat you did but gluing the lines vertical became a mess. For my Fifie I was going to make each side independent with a little knot at the end. R Then I would glue the knots on each side if the hole in the sail. Let's see how this works out. You have great model there

Ras

 

Current builds:

Stern Paddle Wheeler ZULU-1916-1/48 scale

Previous builds:

Freccia Celeste-1927 350cc racing motorcycle-1:9 scale-Protar kit

Boeing B17F- 1/72 scale- Hasegawa kit

HMS Mimi-scale 1/24-Fast Motor Launch                               

Amapá 1907-1/64 scale-Brazilian Customs Cruiser

Scottish Motor Fifie. 1/32 scale. Amati kit

Patricia. Steam powered R/C launch. 1/12 scale. Krick Kit

African Queen. Steam powered  R/C launch. 1/24 scale. Billings ki

Emma C. Berry. Sailing fishing smack. 1/32 scale. Model Shipways kit.

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5 hours ago, wefalck said:

Americans determine the weight of paper (and hence indirectly its approximative thickness) quite differently from us Europeans. They just give the weight, while we use grammes per square-metre (g/m^2). The weight is measured for a ream of 500 sheets of the paper in questions.

 

Taking your layout-paper, I arrive at the following conversion: 0.229 m x 0.0305 m x 500 = 34.9 m^2. Dividing the weight, i.e. 13.5 x 455 g = 6142.5 g by 34.9 m^2, I arrive at 176 g/m^2, if my arithmetics are correct. This is in fact a very heavy paper for the purpose ... I am rather surprised.

Wefalck, you will have to recalculate.  I wish we used the European system for paper size.  Ours is totally crazy!   In the US system, the size of a sheet of paper for determining weight in a "ream" is not what is listed on the package (i.e. the dimensions of the paper as it is sold is not the same as the dimensions of the paper when it is weighed).  The dimensions also vary by type of paper.  So, assuming graphic marker paper is considered "sketch paper" when determining weight, the size of a sheet in a 500-sheet ream is 25 inches by 36 inches (635mm x 914.4mm).  
 

If this paper is not considered "sketch paper," then is is most likely considered "drawing paper."  A sheet of "drawing paper" is 24 inches by 36 inches (609.6mm x 914.4mm) when determining the weight of a ream.  
 

I'm not sure of my skills using a micrometer, but I got 0.10mm for the thickness of a sheet of common copy paper and 0.065mm on the paper I use for sails...

Edited by Gbmodeler
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1 hour ago, Ras Ambrioso said:

GB, thanks for your great description of sail making. I had a lot of trouble fixing the reef lines on my previous Emma Berry. Finally, I did exactly whaat you did but gluing the lines vertical became a mess. For my Fifie I was going to make each side independent with a little knot at the end. R Then I would glue the knots on each side if the hole in the sail. Let's see how this works out. You have great model there

Sounds like your system will work well!

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