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Posted

 Dang good thing they don't look like turkeys!

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

looking great, are you put her into the cabinet to protect it from the feathered friends

Posted

Yea I have a bookshelf with a piece plexiglass over it as a temporary spot I am going to put it until I get a more fitting display for it. @Kevin but while I'm working on it I keep it in my work office which my feathered friends "should" not be in lol. 

 

Well besides the repairs I need to do to some of the .... Wow I can't even remember what they are called....lol .... The cross sections of the masts(someone will correct me) I have finished the 1000 knot challenge for the first time!!! Boy I think I can do a clove hitch in my sleep now lolIMG_20211031_193617705.thumb.jpg.c4198e8c28e6811baf1aa6f23c158648.jpgIMG_20211031_193614027.thumb.jpg.99a9ba451a87fdf3b006add45097791e.jpgIMG_20211031_193606537.thumb.jpg.1b73a4edc41850844602ddffa8916263.jpg

 

Posted

Alright so all the running lines are coming together and it's starting to get tight lol. For sure found that I made the right choice with multiple long length and different sized tweezers and surgical tools. Also I redid a bunch of the blocks because the foremast I used thin CA and that made almost the whole length of the string solid but then I decided to try medium and it doesn't have that effect at all and it is much easier to work with. IMG_20211104_162142116.thumb.jpg.bdac0c9fe48037760010000dfdc40ef0.jpgIMG_20211106_121357718.thumb.jpg.463054d7b63a4a423eea80e9c255d9ad.jpgIMG_20211106_133552811.thumb.jpg.6fda9a69577b4ac85af4ed37f5052b32.jpgIMG_20211106_133559173.thumb.jpg.6f34dd59d39304788654c996572a298f.jpg

 

I am also going to do loops of hanging rope on the belay hooks I just need to play around and see how a couple different kinds look to see what I want to keep IMG_20211106_133530249.thumb.jpg.ffcc71546bad42495f460d22b290d0b5.jpg

Posted

Alright so all the running lines are coming together and it's starting to get tight lol. For sure found that I made the right choice with multiple long length and different sized tweezers and surgical tools. Also I redid a bunch of the blocks because the foremast I used thin CA and that made almost the whole length of the string solid but then I decided to try medium and it doesn't have that effect at all and it is much easier to work with. IMG_20211104_162142116.thumb.jpg.bdac0c9fe48037760010000dfdc40ef0.jpgIMG_20211106_121357718.thumb.jpg.463054d7b63a4a423eea80e9c255d9ad.jpgIMG_20211106_133552811.thumb.jpg.6fda9a69577b4ac85af4ed37f5052b32.jpgIMG_20211106_133559173.thumb.jpg.6f34dd59d39304788654c996572a298f.jpg

 

I am also going to do loops of hanging rope on the belay hooks I just need to play around and see how a couple different kinds look to see what I want to keep IMG_20211106_133530249.thumb.jpg.ffcc71546bad42495f460d22b290d0b5.jpg

 

It's not great because I didn't make my own rope and it's the .15 string so I will for sure want to use better rope for my next model but I wanted try. Any suggests for getting the fraying away? I have been wax but I don't see much difference from using it and not using itIMG_20211106_135703036.thumb.jpg.a974d1db040acfbebb18e29d1cfde9a2.jpg

 

Posted (edited)

Top side is the bee wax and the bottom is without. Putting it side by side the bee wax looks better. I'm open for suggestions to any improvement for this. I won't be mounting them until I get to the sails so I have time but justing trying to see what I want to do. IMG_20211106_140609574_MP.thumb.jpg.ca41883a58bdb369d3abab22cc63f4dc.jpgthis picture is the bee wax one. IMG_20211106_141132686.thumb.jpg.4ea3d79d130834d55476c1aaedb48ef9.jpg

Edited by Robp1025
Posted

Are you using the thread from the kit? I had slight fraying with my Beagle but nothing like as much as what it looks like you are getting.

 

Also, a tip on the belaying, the rope should go round underneath the pin. That way it is impossible for the pin to be pulled out by tension on the rope. There's a good description half way down this page: http://www.sdshipmodelersguild.org/public/scuttlebutt/frmRigging.htm

 

 

Posted
2 hours ago, Techtonic said:

Are you using the thread from the kit? I had slight fraying with my Beagle but nothing like as much as what it looks like you are getting.

 

Also, a tip on the belaying, the rope should go round underneath the pin. That way it is impossible for the pin to be pulled out by tension on the rope. There's a good description half way down this page: http://www.sdshipmodelersguild.org/public/scuttlebutt/frmRigging.htm

 

 

Yea I am using the kit thread. I am going to try a diluted moge podge solution that is for fabrics to see how the lines come out. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I

Quote

 

am also building this, my second I build the J Class ends our first then wanted something more challenging.

Noticed a couple of mistakes (I think) for the main mast chain plates the instructions show it the wrong way round so the gun port is obscured. Because I had already done it I moved one of the lines and moved the link I clears the port now. 
Doing the rigging and found another issue the bowsprit is extremely delicate and I snapped it off whilst turning the boat around,  going to leave the repair until I have finished the main mast rigging to avoid doing it again. 
I have the same question about the spreaders though and will j be adding a line from the end of the outriggers down to below the figurehead and a block up to the foredeck to hold them down.

I started to wipe the thin raw lines with beeswax to get rid of the ‘furry’ look it also helps with keeping the knots in lace without having to use CA

Thinking about what to do next though

8D229AD9-55DD-425D-9ABA-7385155E8D29.jpeg

D8EA5F12-3EFA-41F5-89EB-31EF45ACA196.jpeg

Posted
On 11/17/2021 at 4:55 PM, MMcWilliams said:

I

am also building this, my second I build the J Class ends our first then wanted something more challenging.

Noticed a couple of mistakes (I think) for the main mast chain plates the instructions show it the wrong way round so the gun port is obscured. Because I had already done it I moved one of the lines and moved the link I clears the port now. 
Doing the rigging and found another issue the bowsprit is extremely delicate and I snapped it off whilst turning the boat around,  going to leave the repair until I have finished the main mast rigging to avoid doing it again. 
I have the same question about the spreaders though and will j be adding a line from the end of the outriggers down to below the figurehead and a block up to the foredeck to hold them down.

I started to wipe the thin raw lines with beeswax to get rid of the ‘furry’ look it also helps with keeping the knots in lace without having to use CA

Thinking about what to do next though

8D229AD9-55DD-425D-9ABA-7385155E8D29.jpeg

D8EA5F12-3EFA-41F5-89EB-31EF45ACA196.jpeg

You got a beautiful build there my friend. I am going to try and use a diluted modge podge and see how that works. I haven't had my bowsprit snap on my because I didn't do too much tension so that's good lol

Posted

Did some work and going and finding these sails to be quite big compared to the videos I am seeing. I made everything 1 - 1 so kind curious why it's off. I compared the sails to the chart and they are the right size so idk maybe I messed up who knows. It is my first ship so it might be my fault possibly. Maybe if someone who did a beagle can confirm if the sails were larger than needed? 

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Posted

Waiting on some single blocks in the mail but here is some more work. All the belay pins are going to have the spun bunch's of extra rope so it will hide a lot of the glued rope on it. Or do you guys know if all the belay pins actually had extra rope on it? There isn't many pictures showing what is going on with the rigging. 

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Posted

 Rob, it's looking lovely. You speculated as to the sails being too large. It might be an optical illusion due to the panel sizes. If the panels were narrower it might help make the sails look smaller while still being the correct size overall. Even if that's the case, were I you, I don't know that I would change them at this stage. It maybe something to tuck away for your next build. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted (edited)

Hi Rob, with respect to the belaying pins: You've decided to make the ship with her sails and yards hoisted, so it would seem logical that there will be lots of rope coiled about. Because of course the sailors will have pulled all those ropes to get the sails up. If the sails and yards were down, then there would be more rope up in the rigging and less on deck, if you see what I mean.

 

Looking at your model, I feel a bit annoyed when I compare your kit to the one Occre makes for the "Terror". The guys here who are building that kit, including me, have been examining plans and old drawings, trying to work out where all the winch-drums, deck pumps, deck houses, pin-rails, trysail masts, et cetera, were supposed to go, because the kit doesn't include any of these things. Every bit of extra detail we have included is the result of hours of poring over old Navy draughts and reading Lees' book about rigging, because the "Terror" kit comes with what amounts to a basic 18-century "pirate ship" caricature of a rig that is totally inappropriate to her era. Now I see the same company puts out this excellent kit of the "Beagle" with all these details, and a proper rig. Honestly the "Terror" kit was a rush job to capitalize on the enthusiasm from the AMC series, and is nowhere near as nice as your "Beagle" kit.  Especially annoying for me as a first-time model builder. 

 

Sorry for the rant. You're doing a great job on this kit. 

Edited by Keith S
Posted
3 hours ago, Keith S said:

Hi Rob, with respect to the belaying pins: You've decided to make the ship with her sails and yards hoisted, so it would seem logical that there will be lots of rope coiled about. Because of course the sailors will have pulled all those ropes to get the sails up. If the sails and yards were down, then there would be more rope up in the rigging and less on deck, if you see what I mean.

 

Looking at your model, I feel a bit annoyed when I compare your kit to the one Occre makes for the "Terror". The guys here who are building that kit, including me, have been examining plans and old drawings, trying to work out where all the winch-drums, deck pumps, deck houses, pin-rails, trysail masts, et cetera, were supposed to go, because the kit doesn't include any of these things. Every bit of extra detail we have included is the result of hours of poring over old Navy draughts and reading Lees' book about rigging, because the "Terror" kit comes with what amounts to a basic 18-century "pirate ship" caricature of a rig that is totally inappropriate to her era. Now I see the same company puts out this excellent kit of the "Beagle" with all these details, and a proper rig. Honestly the "Terror" kit was a rush job to capitalize on the enthusiasm from the AMC series, and is nowhere near as nice as your "Beagle" kit.  Especially annoying for me as a first-time model builder. 

 

Sorry for the rant. You're doing a great job on this kit. 

No worries I understand completely. As for the sails the plan is to have it at full sail so I think by your logic then their would not be a lot of rope correct? 

 

Sorry the terror was rushed because that is never good and when I'm further experienced in my ship building skills I will be more keen on those finer details. I am very appreciative of people like you who do their full research and deep dive into how the model is suppose to be. I look forward to learning from you more and the rest of the community! 

Posted
23 minutes ago, Robp1025 said:

As for the sails the plan is to have it at full sail so I think by your logic then their would not be a lot of rope correct? 

Kieth may have more to say, but it depends on the rope in question.

 

Lines like lifts, used to hoist the yards would have more slack when the yards were hoisted.

Braces would have more or less slack deepening on the tack at the time & etc..

 

Rather than striving for modeling actual practice in this regard (who's checking ) just go for some nice looking coils that represents several feet of rope..

 

Here is one of my favorite examples..

image.png.64682a1bc7a84601e05210a830d294d5.png

 

 

From Glenn Barlow's Cheerful..  He provides some technique in his log.

 

 

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

Posted
2 hours ago, Gregory said:

Kieth may have more to say, but it depends on the rope in question.

 

Lines like lifts, used to hoist the yards would have more slack when the yards were hoisted.

Braces would have more or less slack deepening on the tack at the time & etc..

 

Rather than striving for modeling actual practice in this regard (who's checking ) just go for some nice looking coils that represents several feet of rope..

 

Here is one of my favorite examples..

image.png.64682a1bc7a84601e05210a830d294d5.png

 

 

From Glenn Barlow's Cheerful..  He provides some technique in his log.

 

 

Yep that's the plan though my rope is not great quality so as much as I want it to look that good it will probably look like a fuzzy circle more than a coil lol

Posted

Gregory did a better job of explaining what I meant. But picture this: the sail (let's say a jibsail) is down. To hoist it up, you grab the appropriate rope and start pulling. As you pull, you end up with more and more rope in your hands. Now the sail is up, and you need to tie the rope off to the belaying pin and coil it up. Later when the sail goes down again, all that rope disappears up into the rigging. So a ship with her sails UP is going to have a lot more rope coiled up on the pins than she would if the sails were down.

Posted

Ok so I think either I am saying the wrong things or being misunderstood either way I understand. The sails will be totally open so therefore not too much rope hanging but regardless I have made a first attempt at a coil but I am going to try a couple different ways to see if I can make the scale better and also make the rope more defined. But I think for the first go it looks pretty nice. 

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Posted

 One on the right and the middle one, the middle one looks the best IMHO. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

I would've said the one on the right, but the middle is good too. Least of all the left-hand one.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Got the other mast besides the bottom most sails and I am going to work on some running lines and things that would have gotten in the way in place. Also found an issue where I have lost two of the four metal pieces that are for the life boats so can I just submit something OcCre or how does getting those replaced work cause I'm confused. 

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Posted

 Rob, she's turning into a grand lady. Merry Christmas to you and yours. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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