Hannah by Mike_In_RI - 1:48 scale - Plans by Randle Biddle published by Nautical Research Journal

[GrandpaPhil]

I used a painting from the Navy’s Historical Office as my reference for masting, rigging and sails (and color scheme/details).  

I hybridized that painting with Hahn’s drawings in “The Colonial Schooner” and a Model Shipways model of the Sultana that I built a long time ago.

 

I made paper templates of the sails using my model for dimensions.

 

Here’s the link to the painting on the Navy’s Historical Command’s website:

 

https://www.history.navy.mil/content/history/museums/nmusn/explore/photography/american-revolution/continental-navy-ships/continental-schooner-hannah.html

 

Although, as pointed out, that’s conjecture too.

Edited July 10, 2021 by GrandpaPhil

[Windships]

I will guess you’ve not had access to my article. 

 

This Leavitt is the son of the Leavitt who built two models named Hannah. I’m traveling and only have use of my IPhone so I don’t have easy access to images. But in short, those Hannah models were heavily influenced by an 1865 model named Friendship, including the color scheme. As was an obscure painting by Leavitt (“Sr.”) also reproduced in my article. 

 

Which brings us back to your comment: conjectural. 

Sadly, once a painting or a model made by someone at that time who is considered to be an authority is given the name of a vessel, that image sticks. And all too often, undeservedly. 

 

Much, much more about how this came about for Hannah in my article...

 

That said, unless one was willing to challenge the conventional wisdom, they would have done just what you did. Run with what is readily at hand. 

 

That’s what I did with my 1970 model I named Hannah and it is incorrect for essentially the same reasons the Hahn models are, and the Smithsonian model.

 

Thanks

 

I’m very grateful for any comments. Just difficult to properly respond on my iPhone

 

Home 14 July. 

[GrandpaPhil]

no, I do not have access to your article.

 

Joining the NRG is on my to do list in the near future.

Their journal (including your article) is a gold mine of information.

 

I will have to read it when I join.

[Mike_In_RI]

On 7/9/2021 at 8:08 PM, lmagna said:

........ clean and lined up.

Thanks Lou ... "lined up" ... you hit the nail on the head. This scale, which I love to work at, made it difficult to use the more traditional method of fashioning six transom frames by hand and have all the angled surfaces line up. So I'm reversing the method and installing the counter first. I repurposed a dial indicator to help with this issue as well as marking out of the frames. You can see on the (dummy) stern board a curved outline just above the stern light. Per the plans, the curve should be coincidental with the quarterdeck planking and follows along the sheer which makes the height of the counter a key reference. So, the counter too high or too low either subtracts space from the cabin/sternboard or raises the quarterdeck.

 

 

The counter is sturdy now and with no stern board in the way, I can reach into the cabin area more easily.

 

On 7/10/2021 at 12:22 AM, dvm27 said:

For me, the most difficult part of the build (as it was for Hahn as well) was the open bulwarks/margin deck planking arrangement. I found it easier to fit the margin planks before planking the outside of the hull. You're a long way from there but you'll need to give this some thought.

 

Greg, thank you for that. I had been thinking about putting the wale in early to firm up the hull. You may have just saved me a lot of time! This being my first scratch build, forward planning is my shortest short-coming.

 

Re:Rigging... thanks again for the heads up. I have the the Hahn Hannah plans and see your point about the rigging. In this case I'm comparing it to some shots of William F. Wiseman's Hannah that I recently took at the Mystic Research & Collections building and see a difference. That being said, my current strong point regarding rigging is that I know how to make rope.🤔

 

In that this model will (I hope) feature the great cabin and have a partially open quarterdeck, I expect to have minimal rigging or maybe have the stubbed mast look... or... so I'm not sure yet.

 

Thanks again for the help and the likes. Comments are always welcome.

 

Mike

Edited July 11, 2021 by Mike_In_RI

[Windships]

Wiseman’s craftsmanship is phenomenal no matter what his subject is. I too, saw some of his models at Mystic in 2019. 

[dvm27]

I think you're OK with placing the wale after finishing the framing. The deck margin planks are above the wale so there shouldn't interfere with each other. At least that's the way it is  in my version of Hannah.

 

[Windships]

Mike

 

take a look at the colored pencil drawings I sent you a while back. They explain how everything goes together:

frames, beam shelf, deck beams, planksheer, margin plank and etc. 

 

helpful to sketch your own

reinforces your understanding

 

or make a mock-up 

 

nice looking Hannah

dvm27!

Edited July 11, 2021 by Windships
Praise

[Mike_In_RI]

Time for an update. Thanks again guys for the input and comments. I must mention Randy's special behind the scenes incite in that this is my first scratch build and he has been a great help.

 

Much of the work since the last update has been put toward removing wood rather than adding it. The forward bulkhead stanchions are just about to final size but still a little high until the cap rails go in. The forward deck is is about ready for the 1/32" false deck pending trimming in the bow stanchion curvature. Also, the open areas between the frames under the great cabin are now filled in with balsa.

 

The trickiest part yet has been the stern deck beam. It's bowed up for the deck and back for the stern boards. It's also slanted back and in for the transom timbers and shaped underneath to allow for the port lights. The transom timbers are left long and temporarily braced.

 

 

The sternboard is still a moveable template and the framing areas are left as open as possible while there is woodworking and painting to be done in the cabin areas. 'Sorry for the tilt in this photo.... a large wave no doubt.

 

This shot shows the scale size of the raw cabin area. It's about 12' 3" long and 11' 3" wide narrowing back to 7' aft. The ladder leads forward in a decent.

 

Once the tough-to-get-at work is done in the cabin area, the current plan is to fit he deck clamps and the final pair of futtock-ish frames just forward of the transom timbers.

 

Mike

 

Edited August 1, 2021 by Mike_In_RI

[Mike_In_RI]

Thank you again for the  likes. 'Well appreciated.

 

Most of the additions shown here since the last update are dry-fit. The fairing in the cabin is done. The floor boards in the cabin are made from individual cherry planks glued to a 1/64" plywood backing and is removable in one one piece  at the moment. There is one thin layer of shellac on the planks to bring out the tone but it actually looks a little too new. I may dull that down a little somehow. The quarterdeck clamps are in place and the beams are dry-fit so I can still do some carpentry in the cabin. 

 

 

Save for a little more shaping work at the bow, the hull is fair. The deck beams are faired and a false deck of 1/64" piece of plywood is marked out and dry-fit in place. 3/64" boxwood for the deck planking from thewoodmansshed along with other sizes for the great cabin are on order. 

 

I put a little time into a practice section of covering board (port side). It went fairly well but I expect it will be a lot more challenging with the stem curvature.

 

 

Comments, tips & corrections are always welcome.

 

Mike

 

Edited August 18, 2021 by Mike_In_RI

[Windships]

I find it helpful to make a thin cardboard pattern for the covering board. A lot of trial and error to fit.  I get the notches correct then once that piece is installed (in scarphed sections) I install the outboard edge as one long bendable strip. 

[Mike_In_RI]

Thank you again for the likes. Just a quick update. Thinking it might be more risky to leave the (1/8" x 1/8") frames exposed for too long, I began planking the hull. The AYC planks were originally ripped to 3/64" however I have thinned them down a bit for easier bending around the tighter curves toward the stern. The 1/32" batten at the shear is temporarily placed in the position of the lower edge of the wales.

 

 

A small milestone here... just today making it to the turn of the counter. Only six more planks needed to get to the bottom of the wales.

 

 

At this scale, hindsight says a more narrow plank would have been easier to contour to the curves. Given that the hull will be painted, I have not simulated any caulking. However, I have lightly "broken" the edges of the planks hoping for the edges to show through the paint just a bit.

 

... back to planking. 😊

 

Mike

[Windships]

Beautiful, clean work Mike!

[lmagna]

Really nice seeing you make some progress on your Hannah Mike. She is already showing that she will be an impressive little ship in your hands.

[Mike_In_RI]

Slow but sure... Hannah's hull planking is now at the level just below the wales. Much of the time spent was working on bending the planks. The aft end of the two upper planks have a twist, a bend and a taper to mate with the counter boards (whew!). 

 

 

 

 

Currently, I'm favoring white or a turpentine-ish brown color for this part of the hull. The wale planking will be natural boxwood.

 

I'm just now marking out the lines to have the top of the wales coincide with the top of the false deck. The way I envision the construction, the bottom of the deck planks and covering board should match the top of the wales. Please comment if I'm wrong here.

 

Best,

Mike

 

[KenW]

Planking looks excellent!  And it's not easy.  Yours is outstanding.

[lmagna]

Good to see an update to your Hannah Mike. Your work is looking fantastic to say the least! I do not know if I have ever seen a better rendered round tuck stern, NOT an easy accomplishment!

[Mike_In_RI]

Thank you guys for the comments and likes. Much appreciated.

 

Without the maximized cabin, the twist/curvature of the planks up to the counter would be more mellow as per the plans. That being said, fingers crossed, the cabin will be worth the effort.

 

If I were to repeat this (1/4") scale, I'd would go with 5/32" wide hull planking or 3/16" max to make bending easier. Even taking off a 1/64" in plank thickness in the aft planks made a difference bending around the tuck.

 

... back to the wales...

 

Mike

 

[Mike_In_RI]

Before getting to the wales, the covering boards were next in line. There are three sections on each side and the width of two of the sections can be cut straight in with a razor saw, slightly undersized. The depth was cut in with a 1/8" file by lightly creeping in to the final depths.

 

The bow covering board sections can't be inserted horizontally. They must be fit from the top down while the timbers are slightly more bowed out at the top. Template #3 finally worked giving the best fit at the base. Yes, it's sad looking...but I'll take it. 🙄

 

 

At this point the widths of the covering boards are still oversized.

 

 

Some small gaps still remain between the covering board and the timbers. I will air brush as much as possible which I doubt will fill these gaps. After a few tries ... "home brew" wood filler V1.0 is made with "wood flour", which is more fine than regular saw dust, along with a 1:3 mixture of white glue and water. The mix uses the least amount of glue that can still stick two pieces of paper together. Too thin a mix will not bind the wood flower. For me, regular saw dust was too large to pack into the fine gaps.

 

   

 

Now, back to the wales. Thank you again for looking in and commenting.

 

Mike

 

 

 

Edited December 9, 2021 by Mike_In_RI

[kurtvd19]

Mike:

Looking good.  Airbrushing will not fill in gaps.  Don't even try.  Your plan to use the filler is the way to go.

[Mike_In_RI]

Two months certainly went by fast. 'Hope everyone has stayed healthy.

 

The planking is finished on the Hannah by Randy Biddle. The plans are published by the Nautical Research Journal and are available to NRG members for download. Now that the planking is done, the ship lines have come into view which I have been looking forward to for quite some time.

 

At first the quarterdeck beams were not at the correct level to match the quarterdeck sheer strake so the 1st level of planks had to be removed and the beam dropped down slightly. The rails are temporarily glued at this point. The beam area will be partially open to expose a view to the main cabin.

 

 

Boxwood is used from the main wale up. In this design, the main wale does not show as protruding. I made a slight groove in the sheer strake to give it a little shadow line.

 

This shot shows the outside portion of the main rail extending all the way around as well as the first quarterdeck plank.

 

Per the plan, the forward section of the quarterdeck planks have scuppers. They were cut in using Proxxon MF 70 with a .4 mm bit.

 

The inside sections of the waist rail are dry fit here. I'll likely wait putting on the rails until the stanchion area is painted.

 

 

The sternboard is next on the list along with some paint color testing.

 

So I'm happy to say, this Hannah design shows as a beautifully fair merchant ship of the times!  My complements to Randy.

 

Mike

 

 

Edited February 20, 2022 by Mike_In_RI

[KenW]

You are really doing excellent work on this model.

Very impressive!

[Windships]

My Dear Friend Mike,

 

I am both elated and truly humbled to see these images of your beautiful transformation of the drawings into a living creation.

As you know, from the beginning, I was more than a little anxious that there would be significant issues (unfair lines for example) which wouldn't reveal until you had invested precious time and materials. But alas, the Good Lord favored us both, and thanks for that.

 

She really is lovely--in an honest, earn your keep kind of way, and to see her in three dimensions evokes thoughts of what it might have been like to build her, work her, and ultimately to fight her against the British in 1775.

 

I don't recall whether you intend to mast and rig the model, but of course now we're all excited to see how that will look too.

 

You are a superb craftsman, and I can't think of anyone I would have preferred to make this voyage with.

HUZZAH!!

 

RANDY

[lmagna]

Great to not only see that you are able to make progress Mike but also that the progress is so impressive. I also am glad that you have either solved any issues with the unproven plans or that there were none to solve, making the build that much more enjoyable. Looking forward to seeing even more of your very impressive talents at work. Thanks so much for sharing.

[Mike_In_RI]

Thank you guys for the comments.

 

Lou, the plans were perfectly fine for the build method I used ... plank on bulkhead... but can generally be applied to bread and butter or fully framed. It's up to the builder to decide their own amount of detail to be added. It does not include any extra detail regarding "how to" for each of the methods. For instance, I want to add cabin detail. There is no specificity in the plans for the shape of a cabin or counter so I fell back on the shape in my previous model... 18th Century Merchant half-hull for the counter and am looking through assorted references for the cabin. That caused me to find a non-typical way to build out the transom timbers. All of the is fun for me but does take extra time to keep the overall visible areas true the the era and/or design.

 

For sure there are "if I were to do it again" issues. At this scale, I would have used less wide lumber to allow for better bending. Or, more likely, I would go one step larger in scale.

 

On 2/19/2022 at 10:20 PM, Windships said:

I don't recall whether you intend to mast and rig the model, but of course now we're all excited to see how that will look too.

 

It's likely that the model will be rigged.  I need to do some research on rigging in that era. So far, I have the Harold Hahn plans and lots of photos of the William F. Wiseman Hannah model (based on the Hahn plans) at Mystic to check out. That being said,...

 

......I'm curious if this 45 ton schooner might be rigged more lightly than the Hahn 78 ton Hannah (???)

 

Comments always welcome.

 

Mike

 

 

 

[Windships]

Friends,

 

Very glad Mike has chosen to rig the model. A few other comments/recommendations.

 

The Drawings were never intended to be as complete as what we may have come to expect in a very good kit, or practicum.

As explained in the 270-page Hannah monograph, I thought it would be presumptuous to provide that level of detail because no one knows exactly what this vessel looked like--at any point in her life--nor will anyone ever know that.

 

But, I believed there was enough data to put forward a new interpretation based on that data, and with the caveat that it was an "informed speculation".  I'd have to check, but I recall encouraging readers to come to their own interpretation based on the research we did, and to add their own informed opinions and reliable sources. I was very hopeful that the article would stimulate lively discussion. For a variety of reasons, that hasn't happened...or if it has, no one has shared those exchanges with me.

 

If anyone chooses this Hannah as their next project, then I strongly encourage they read the entire monograph. If you are not a member of the Nautical Research Guild, then make the small investment to get access. Within the article I have provided sources and suggestions about her color scheme, armament, boat complement, sail plan and rig. There are two variants available to you. West Indies trader and lightly armed schooner. There is plenty of latitude for you to create your own depiction.

 

My hope is that whatever you do, it has a sound basis in research.

 

IF I were to model her, like Mike suggested, I would choose a larger scale, and I would build her POF. The framing arrangement I provided is fully supported in the nautical archaeology record for vessels of her time, size and purpose. My second choice is lift-style. I never cared for POB, just a personal preference.

 

As to a lighter rig for a 45-ton vessel, sure. Her masts (heights and diameters) and spars (diameters and lengths) would be in proportion to her size.

If you have access to the Model Shipways drawings of Sultana, that is a good basis for beginning. Merritt A Edson Jr studied 18th-century vessel rigging extensively and his influence is seen in those drawings and for Earl of Egmont and Sir Edward Hawke. Just keep in mind, those were much sharper vessels with more drag in the keel, and so the rake of the masts is greater.

 

If you read the monograph, it will be abundantly clear why this Hannah should not be called an example of a "Marblehead (fishing) schooner" (except as to where she was owned) and certainly not a "Heeltapper".

 

Have fun, and thanks again Mike for bringing this little schooner back to life.

 

BIDDLE

 

JUST NOW - I was reviewing early editions of the Nautical Research Journal available on CD. Coincidentally, in NRJ 5, Chapelle introduces his new plans for John Shedd and Model Shipways new kit of SULTANA. As above, still a good point of departure for developing a rig for HANNAH, and...another reason to become a NRG member. Just sayin'

 

BIDDLE

 

Edited February 21, 2022 by Windships
Additional SULTANA reference in NRJ

[Windships]

MORE ON HANNAH from the early NRJ 5

 

One Richard Orr, whom I do not know, built a series of models, and writes about them in this piece. Here's what he has to say about Hannah.

“HANNAH –

Thence to the Marblehead heel tapper HANNAH of 1760 – one of our earlier fisherman. Lines from a drawing by Chapelle. However you have it, it would be a reconstruction and I chose Chapelle’s because of the faithfulness to type in lines. My model on the panel (a display) is representative of the type and period. I named the model HANNAH for want of a better name. It is reported that the first vessel commissioned by authority of Continental Congress was a heel tapper which was commissioned by General Washington. According to “American Ship Models” by Grimwood, the heel tapper prevailed with the slight modifications as the favorite type when in about 1850 it was replaced by schooners on the lines of pilot boats.”

__________________________________

I applaud Mr. Orr's candor. The comments contain numerous factual errors, but

let's be fair, he had very little to go on when making his model. If you read the Hannah monograph you will see how Grimwood and Chapelle figured in Harold Hahn coming to the erroneous depiction of Hannah which persisted as the choice for model builders for decades.

A few days ago, in The American Neptune, I found a rather scathing review of Grimwood's book. Oddly, there was no mention of Chapelle's contribution or endorsement of that work.

BIDDLE

[Mike_In_RI]

On 2/21/2022 at 12:26 PM, Windships said:

If you have access to the Model Shipways drawings of Sultana, that is a good basis for beginning. Merritt A Edson Jr studied 18th-century vessel rigging extensively and his influence is seen in those drawings and for Earl of Egmont and Sir Edward Hawke. Just keep in mind, those were much sharper vessels with more drag in the keel, and so the rake of the masts is greater.

 

Thank you Randy for the tips. I'll check. Much appreciated.

 

Mike

[Mike_In_RI]

The sternboard and fashion pieces are finished. As usual, the forum is great for finding different approaches to a build. In this case, I emulated a neat way to make the jambs/sill pieces stay square while placing them in the ship structure. I have to apologize in that I lost the link to that site.

 

The port casing is built around a wooden shaft to the correct size, rough sanded to the angle of the stanchions then aligned and inserted into the frame. It protrudes enough to allow for the thickness of three layers of sternboard.

 

 

The first layer of planking is 1/32" boxwood and will be seen from the quarterdeck. 

 

The port planks below the lower curved molding have 3 layers. The middle layer of the sternboard is sanded flush with the jambs. The top layer cases around the port. The plans call for three curved moldings.

 

The jambs .... much smaller than a dime...look off center but are OK with a straight on view.

 

 

It's nice to see the ships lines come together with the fashion pieces, ports and molding. She's shaping up nicely... another complement to Randy.

 

Thank you again for the likes and comments.

 

Mike

[Windships]

Your model really is lovely Mike!

Mike has used many innovative approaches toward building this design in the POB fashion.

 

Every new post is inspiring to us all.

Thank You Mike!

[Mike_In_RI]

Time for an (overdue) update. The cabin area needs to be finished in order to follow through with the quarterdeck margin planks. I decided to change out the original dark cherry floor boards and replace them with thinner, white-washed boxwood. For the aft ceiling planks, very thin basswood was used to get enough twist. The lower part of the aft storage wall incorporates a step/seat with drawers. The dark areas on each side are frames that protrude in into the cabin area.

The wall has lots drawers for maps, etc. and a drop down table. The horizontal area between the inner counter boards and the storage will have a shelf for lamps and other odds & ends.

A barn door look seemed appropriate for the cabin access to the hull spaces. 1/32" x 3/64" box was edge glued with CA and the trim boards were built up to allow for the diagonal brace. The bunk beds are made up of scrap basswood.

 

I stuck with the barn door look for the cut-away privacy walls.

There is a small storage shelf just forward of the inner counter planks. At this point, the quarterdeck beams are only temporarily placed.

I decided not to add much more to the cabin. It's width is only 3" and I fear it would look overcrowded. OK, maybe a chair :).

 

So, on to the ladder, quarterdeck beams and margin planks. Thank you for checking in and I appreciate any comments.

 

Mike

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 12, 2022 by Mike_In_RI