HM Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 by glbarlow - Vanguard Models

[DelF]

What Gregory said! Excellent first planking. You’ve shown that using proper techniques needn’t take an inordinate amount of time, and will pay dividends in terms of providing a good base for the second layer without the need for excessive sanding and filling. 

[glbarlow]

52 minutes ago, Gregory said:

serve as final planking on any ship,

Thanks for saying so. It will get a bit more dicey with the very thin deadwood required around the sternpost. 
 

39 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

Good training also for when builds such as Cheerful  or Winnie

Thanks BE. That’s exactly my thoughts. I have the first chapters of Winnie waiting for me. 

[glbarlow]

On 8/16/2021 at 1:50 PM, DelF said:

You’ve shown that using proper techniques needn’t take an inordinate amount of time, and will pay dividends

Thanks Derek, I appreciate your saying so. 

Edited August 18, 2021 by glbarlow

[BobG]

4 hours ago, glbarlow said:

 

I used my Byrnes Sander to sand the angle (67 degrees for the first several)

Beautiful planking, Glenn. How did you determine the 67 degree angle? Do you change this angle as you continue along with the planking?

[glbarlow]

On 8/16/2021 at 5:08 PM, BobG said:

How did you determine the 67 degree angle

By checking it against the stem, and yes it changes as you move to the keel. I just had to keep checking and adjusting. 

Edited August 18, 2021 by glbarlow

[desalgu]

I found it amusing that I use same #11 xacto blade knife for tapering planks and that I have the same travel iron for plank bending.  My forms that I bend around are a little different, but I like what you did, and I believe that's what Chuck did in his video.  I thought mine would work as well, but they don't, and I think this will work better.  Plus it's simpler.

 

Love the Byrnes sander!   Had to look them up and I see they make small table saw also.   Do you have one?  or any of their other tools?  I do it the old way with sanding blocks, so I can't be very accurate.   I assume extra accuracy make a difference, it usually does.

 

I will lookup your Cheerful log.  I've thought about that being my next model.

 

[glbarlow]

12 hours ago, desalgu said:

I see they make small table saw also.   Do you have one?

The Byrnes table saw is the best tool I own and the one I’ve had the longest. I consider it essential to model building. You’ll find dedicated threads and testimonials all over MSW. It is a family owned (just Jim and his wife) business with amazing customer support. I highly recommend it and the sander. 
 

I change the forms for bending different size planks but I haven’t found the top tab necessary. #11 blades is the most used blade for all of us. While both the Swan Morton scalpel and Excel blades are #11, they handle differently. The scalpel is sharp but very thin and breaks if twisted. 
 

I’m pretty proud of my Cheerful, it’s also my best log. I learned so much. 

[niwotwill]

Glenn on plank bending station what is the metal piece holding the radius wood?

 

[glbarlow]

Just a metal spring clamp with the plastic tip removed so I don’t melt it. 

Edited August 23, 2021 by glbarlow

[glbarlow]

First and Second Planking

 

I’ve completed the first planking and the stern second planking.

 

 

 

 

 

The first planking turned out ok I think. I once again confirmed how well plank bending works and the importance of taking the time for a proper fairing before the first plank is laid. I wasn’t as precise as I needed to be on the lining work, consequently I had gap issues on the bottom of the hull, no problem since it isn’t seen and will be covered by the second planking. I had some some wider basswood of the same thickness, taking some lessons learned from Cheerful I used it for a better fit, why limit myself to a single width when I have options. (The pencil marks the widest/longest part of the hull, bulkheads 7 & 8).

 

 

I am surprised by how much sanding is required around the stern. The second planking is only 1mm thick so the fit has to be taken into account by the first planking and by reducing the former for the sternpost to match up. The lime wood is plenty thick to allow sufficient sanding to get a smooth finish. I’m a fan of these Soft Sanders. I learned of them here on the forum, they get put to good use with 80,180, and 220 grit to prep the hull for the second planking.

 

 

 

 

As I always do, I prepared the hull for mounting at this early stage, making it easy to mount the final model. While I appreciate the clear stand Chris provides, all my models are mounted the same way using walnut bases with brass pedestals. I make sure to drill the hole is at least a ½ inch past the keel into the former and having the rod run from there to the bottom of the walnut base. Epoxy later makes sure none of it moves once finished.

 

 

 

Here I chose to deviate from the excellent instruction manual by attaching the stem and keel (but not the sternpost, its clamped there in the photo just to ensure it and the keel are aligned properly) before the second planking instead of after. I checked with James and Chris on this, their answer is its up to the modeler, after the second planking is how they do it. In my opinion it is much more of a benefit to have it installed now to ensure a tight fit of the garboard plank, plus now it looks more like a ship than a rowboat 😄  Clamping the long strips of lime wood either side as a splint kept the three pieces making up the stem in alignment with each other and the hull while the rubber bands held it firm to the hull while the glue dried. I used white wood glue here to make sure I had time to adjust all the alignments and did each of the three pieces one at a time starting at the stem.

 

 

Next up is adding the second planking of boxwood, I love boxwood, to the stern and stern counter. More sanding, filing and chisel work to get a tight fit. There are slight curves to the counter, the curve seen from the side and also a slight bow from stern post to transom. The first I addressed by beveling one edge of each plank, the second with a touch of plank bending (using a new 1mm form cut from the kit laser board waste).

 

 

A moment’s deviation. I never used chisels before Cheerful made it necessary for me to learn, I had a few but they were junk. I learned about Veritas mini-chisels from @DelF and purchased this set. I thought I was doing great until I also learned from Derek that even brand new chisels require sharpening. So I now have my own sharpening station made up from honing fluid and different grits of sandpaper after watching a Youtube video (again linked from Derek as I recall). Then one more Derek gift, the lead on the Richard Kell sharpening guide tool, which is amazing in its simplicity and results. As a test used from my Army days for a blade’s sharpness, can it shave off the lightest bit of a fingernail (I said lightest bit, not trying to remove it, the thinner the sharper). With this set up my Veritas chisels are nearly as sharp as my best Benchmade and SpyderCo knives (I’m a bit of a collector of those). I can’t tell you how often and how effectively I now use these chisels. So once again, thanks Derek.

 

 

Back to the program. I completed the transom and as with the stern, using top to bottom (instead of side to side) planking. I hadn’t seen it before, but I trust Chris’ has done the research, and I like the different look it creates. As is my process, I run full planks then cut out port openings with a #11 Excel blade as I go (don’t cover up the opening entirely before notching). For those of you enjoying the which is better debate, a scalpel, no matter how sharp, will not do this job, the thin blade would shatter. I like tapering planks with the scalpel, but the sturdier Excel blade is required here, at least for me, Chris probably does this with his Stanley Knife. Also, notice how thin the stern post area is, much thinner than I’d like but necessary given the thickness of the sternpost and second planking. It will all be fine, I’ll just feel better once the second planking is complete.

 

 

I’m already running color board tests from my upcoming build of HMS Winchelsea, which I hope to complete before the end of the decade. I’m pretty much settled on Winsor & Newton Crimson, because why not be RED. It will also have Cerulean Blue to match the hull decorations. I was surprised how different the shades (three of the five, the other two are different blues) are between different paint manufactures. Deciding on it will depend on which matches the printed decoration best. These color boards are always helpful and entertaining to make. I mention all this because….

 

 

Flirt is a trial run of those colors, I’ve painted the interior of the transom Crimson already and I’ve elected to paint the counter one of the Cerulean Blues to match the blue that will later be added to upper strakes. Adding to the counter now is a touch tricky, I don’t want to paint the back edges of the second hull planking, which will be sanded flush to the counter, so it’s touch up now or touch up later. We’ll see how it goes. I already have a little more touch up on the red around the stern ports, often I don’t see these things until I do a close up photo. I also did a like coat of WOP more to seal the wood than anything else at this point.

 

On with the second planking. I said I was going to make these posts shorter, I seem to be failing at that. 

 

Thank you for all the likes and especially the comments.

[DelF]

Beautiful work on the planking Glenn. Good to hear you're getting on well with the chisels and honing guide.

[BobG]

Gorgeous work, Glenn, you're light years ahead of me in modeling skills! You're moving through this build fast too!

 

I have a set of those small chisels but haven't used them much because they weren't very sharp brand new. So I'm glad to hear they are useful when they are sharp! It looks like I'll have to order one of the Richard Kell Honing Guides from England since I haven't been able to find any online vendors in the states or even in Canada.

[glbarlow]

Bob, I ordered mine from England, took very little time to get it. It’s a great tool. 
 

Thanks Derek, I look for opportunities to use those chisels now😁

Edited August 24, 2021 by glbarlow

[Beef Wellington]

Beautiful work Glenn, those colours really pop against the boxwood.  Appreciate you sharing your chisel philosophy and tools, I really need to invest in some of these rather than chewing through exacto blades.

[desalgu]

Thought I'd let you know I'm following along and love your build logs.  You do incredible work!

 

I've wanted some mini chisels so now I know what to get and that I need to learn how to sharpen them even before 1st use.  I have a chisel like xacto blade, but I believe these will work much better.

 

[glbarlow]

6 minutes ago, desalgu said:

chisel like xacto blade

Thanks for the comment. 
 

There is no comparison between the two, it’s a worthwhile investment. 

[glbarlow]

1 hour ago, Beef Wellington said:

I really need to invest in some of these rather than chewing through exacto blades.

Thank your for the comment. I still chew through blades😁but quality chisels are an excellent investment. 

[glbarlow]

 

2nd Planking - Part 1

 

I’ve  completed the first belt of the second planking on both port and starboard. My progress has been a bit slow because I’ve had a bit of a difficult time with Flirt. I had to work attaching the keel to address a slight warp in the former, but it and the keel are quite thin and I managed to break it off while using my Amati keel holder, this despite firmly gluing it using PVA. So a good deal of time was spent repairing that.

 

 

Nonetheless I’m pleased with the result of the first band. I found the line for the first belt by determining 21 planks are required between the master plank and the keel. So I marked a line between bulkheads 7 & 8 (where full width is required at midships) ten plank widths down from the master plank and from there used artist tape to determine where to run the belt. To the stern is easy, its full width planks all the way. The bow is the artistry part, there is no magic answer, you just know it when you see it, maybe. I did better marking the second planking learning I’d marked it high on the first planking. It is wonderful affirmation to see the planks following the tick marks as I progressed.

 

It takes time to line the hull like this, using a planking fan to determine the width at each bulkhead. I’ll say once again its time well spent. Sure there are other methods, on this model I probably could have winged it and been ok. I won’t be able to do that when I start Winchelsea some day, so I want to learn to do it right now.

 

 

Once again the Byrnes Sander gets the right angle and bevel down the stem. It changes a bit with almost every plank, the sander really helps keep the planks tight to the stem.

 

 

I spent some time on the garboard strake, never as easy as you’d think. One because it’s a good time to do it. After I line the lower belt I’ll add one or two planks above it and meet them coming down. More importantly in this case it added some needed support and strength to the keel. I always plank with CA, however in this case I used PVA and clamps on both garboards, they are now one with the frame. I haven't done any sanding I'll wait until the second belt is finished.

 

 

The boxwood second planking looks good coming into the stern, even only rough sanded, again the plank bending including inward twists make it happen. I knew I’d chew up my painted counter some going in, it’s an easy fix later.

 

You can see with the garboards how much sanding was required on the frame to fit the stern post. All that I did and I’ll still need a little more off the boxwood to get a good fit, really have to take that into account at the outset. The instructions aren’t kidding when he says remove wood from the frame to a 1 mm width.

 

 

As I've noted before I really enjoy plank bending. Nothing more than a travel iron is needed to form the planks to fit to follow the curves and bends of the ship. It’s only rough sanded at this point, with the boxwood only 1mm thick I’ll wait until its completely planked to sand carefully sand it out.

 

Off to finish the planking. As always, thanks for the likes and especially the comments.

[BobG]

Great planking as usual, Glenn. You've practically got this skill mastered and it will pay dividends for you when you build the Winnie.

[DelF]

Can you come over and do my second planking please Glenn? I'll rig your cannon in return 😁

[glbarlow]

Throw in the rat lines and we have a deal!  We can meet In he middle. Wait that’s the ocean. 

[Gregory]

Are you going to leave the hull un-painted?  

 

I think it will finish well with WOP..

[glbarlow]

8 minutes ago, Gregory said:

going to leave the hull un-painted?

Not at all. I’ll add WOP once I’ve finished the 2nd planking and likely paint white below waterline. Not there yet. 

[Gregory]

Sphinx would be a great preamble for Winchelsea..

[BobG]

10 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

I’m going to finish planking Flirt and then consider something I’ve never done; stop one model to build another. The quandary is Sphinx or Winchelsea. Frankly both are more compelling than Flirt at the moment. 

You've been asking me about when I was starting my Flirt build. Well, I've been procrastinating because I've been salivating over the Sphinx. We live in a small house and there isn't much room for many large models so I've been thinking that maybe I should try and sell the Flirt and get the Sphinx when Chris has the second batch ready. With models like these that take a lot of time and commitment, I really need to love it and want to build it badly and the Sphinx keeps attracting my attention. 

 

The Flirt would be great practice for me before tackling the Sphinx but the Vanguard instructions are so good that I think I could probably do ok building it. It would be my first model with guns and ratlines and lots of square masted rigging but I'm game for it and there are several good build logs already going on the Sphinx which would be very helpful.  

 

I'll try and finish my Pen Duick currently and continue to mull over my dilemma: Flrt or Sphinx?  

[glbarlow]

Thanks for the likes and comments. Starboard planking complete with first coat of WOP. 

 

 

The boxwood absorbed it like a sponge. It seemed it was dry before I finished. I need more practice on the lower belt, not that any one would know after it’s painted white. 
 

I’m not thrilled with the uneven color of the boxwood. I spent a lot of time sorting pieces to color match then the WOP found whole new colors to display. 

I’ll do more sanding later, need to do that in conjunction with port side. More details and photos after the planking is completely finished. 
 

Back to work. 

 

 

[niwotwill]

Planking lines are very nice the flow pattern is brought out by the boxwood wop. I just looked at Jim's Flirt and the white waterline covers most of the planking so it looks like the uneven colors are not going to be an issue. It looks up to your standards. What thickness is the boxwood 2nd layer"

 

 

[PRS]

That looks gorgeous!

 

In fact I didn't see the differences in the colors of the boxwood until you pointed it out but it still looks great.

[glbarlow]

27 minutes ago, niwotwill said:

What thickness is the boxwood 2nd layer"

Thanks.  It’s only 1mm thick. 

[glbarlow]

24 minutes ago, PRS said:

I didn't see the differences in the colors of the boxwood

Thanks, I’m sure color variation is a nice characteristic of boxwood. It stood out more after the WOP.