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Posted

Have you tried using mica.  I don't know where you might get it but it does look very good.  It flakes off the larger piece and can be cut with an exacto blade or scalpel.  The openings look too large for Krystal Klear.  Acetate would work as well.

 

Tom

Tom Ruggiero

 

Director Nautical Research Guild

Member Ship Model Society of New Jersey (Past President)

Posted

Amazon sells mica sheets, so the post will delivery some in due course. As always, thanks for the ‘likes’ and sage advice as always!

Posted (edited)
  On 7/27/2022 at 2:48 AM, TomShipModel said:

Have you tried using mica.  I don't know where you might get it but it does look very good.  It flakes off the larger piece and can be cut with an exacto blade or scalpel.  The openings look too large for Krystal Klear.  Acetate would work as well.

 

Tom

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Funnily enough, there are chunks of mica just lying on the ground all around our cottage. There was once a mica mine in the hills across the other side of the access road. Every time we dig a post hole we find more. The kids used to be fascinated by it, peeling it apart endlessly.

 

I used to joke about going into production of capacitors.

 

If ever EV batteries need mica, we'll be RICH!! 😆

 

LATER EDIT: Was at the cottage this weekend; here are a couple of pieces of mica I picked up. The one in my left hand is small, but so thin and clear you can hardly see it in the shot.

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Edited by Ian_Grant
Posted

Absolutely, when it comes to scraps of plastic and off-cuts from nice furniture projects;  one never knows when they may have to splice a dutchman with perfectly matching color and grain - kids being kids, and all.

 

I do at least go through my plastic scraps and use the just big enough piece for the next little thing I’m making.

We are all works in progress, all of the time.

Posted

Regarding experiments with mica, as suggested by @TomShipModel, (thanks again for help!) that is the way to go!! Easy to flake/peel easy to cut with an x-acto blade and it can flex to some degree without cracking! Much less fuss and mess! In the photos, you can see the product I bought via Amazon, my first attempt to peel off a single 'sheet' (using my fingers and an x-acto blade) and my first attempt to cut the same. I can't express the easy in comparison to using glass. There is a very slight tint to the mica but that is tiny price for ease of use.

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Posted

A little work towards the deck fixtures. I stained the wood before sanding the char off. A couple touchups and then CA glue applied with a needle.

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Posted
  On 8/10/2022 at 2:57 AM, EricWilliamMarshall said:

A little work towards the deck fixtures. I stained the wood before sanding the char off. A couple touchups and then CA glue applied with a needle.

Expand  

That's some crazy small stuff, Eric. Good job getting those stairs to look even. The companionways look good too.

 

Ron

Director, Nautical Research Guild

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

 

Current Build: Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner)

Completed Builds: HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS GodspeedHMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

Posted
  On 8/10/2022 at 3:26 AM, hollowneck said:

That's some crazy small

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Agreed! It was easy to ensure the first joint was correct (90 degrees, etc.) Then it got ‘fiddlely”. In the end, I would glue two rungs to a side, eyeballing the angles and glue the other side on and then the last rung, holding the assembly in my hand the whole time. It would only take a minute or two, once I got rolling. 
 

Thanks again to everyone for the kind words and likes!

 

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Excellent build thread and fine workmanship.  I currently started this project myself and your build thread is a wealth of detailed information, thank you.

     Past builds:                                                                                                                                                                                       https://modelshipworld.com/topic/35783-lightship-112-nantucket-1936-by-jeff-preisler-finished-bluejacket-shipcrafters-scale-                                                                                                                                                                   https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33624-uss-perry-by-jeff-preisler-finished-bluejacket-shipcrafters-scale-1/8 =1'

  • 2 months later...
Posted
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Nice work, looking forward to next post.

Take care folks, always appreciative of everyone's support!

Bill T.

 

Finished Builds:

Revell:  Cutty Sark 1980 (1/96 Plastic); Thermopylae 1981 (1/96 Plastic); USS Constitution 1983 (1/96 Plastic), USS United States 1985 (1/96 Plastic)

Midwest Products: Chesapeake Bay Skipjack Success Series (2001 Wood), Booths Bay Lobster Boat Working R/C Success Series (1"-1' 2002-2019)

Blue Jacket Shipcrafters: Yankee Hero (3/8-1 2020 on MSW), Revenue Cutter 1/48 11.03.2024

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Joshua Mark was kind enough to record my presentation on sharpening chisels (from this year's Joint Clubs get-together) and post it on Youtube: 

 

Posted

I was lucky enough to finally travel to Europe with the family in tow this year. I was able to stop by the wonderful National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam. It Is well worth a visit! I will also add that Amsterdam is a very very English language friendly place, so don't let language stop you from a visit. I dumped a bunch of snapshots here:

 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

For those working on this kit, the catheads should be fitted in earlier then the instructions state. I suggest doing that work after attaching the bulwarks but before adding the rails. Otherwise, if you’re like me you will find it difficult to cleanly cut the correct angles without damaging the delicate curved bulwarks and breaking the rails. Note: the instructions state to paint the catheads black but everyone (including the writer of the instructions) has painted them white.

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Edited by EricWilliamMarshall
Added image
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
  On 7/29/2023 at 9:12 PM, EricWilliamMarshall said:

For those working on this kit, the catheads should be fitted in earlier then the instructions state. I suggest doing that work after attaching the bulwarks but before adding the rails. Otherwise, if you’re like me you will find it difficult to cleanly cut the correct angles without damaging the delicate curved bulwarks and breaking the rails. Note: the instructions state to paint the catheads black but everyone (including the writer of the instructions) has painted them white.

 

Expand  

If it makes you feel any better, I made the exact same mistake when building the kit! Thanks for flagging it - hopefully they adjust the instructions.

Posted (edited)

I mis-stepped in working on the windlass. The instructions state one should use 1/32” wire. I didn’t see it in mix and grabbed what appeared to be the smallest wire which was 1/16” I broke the photo-etch while trying to expand the holes before realizing the error.

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Edited by EricWilliamMarshall
Posted

The kit comes with the most delicate boxes to support the delicate laser-cut gratings. Unfortunately, the laser cut gratings are a different size than the supporting boxes. My solution (eventually) was to cut the boxes at the corners (on the short-grain side, due to ease) leaving me with two “L” shaped pieces. I then could glue each piece separately and then trim allowing for a tight fit around each grating. In retrospect, I could have also built an interior “lining” for each box for the grating to rest on, but it didn’t occur to me until writing this. ;) 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Which way do folks think the kitchen’s chimney should point? The photo of the model points to the aft but others point the other direction. 

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