HMB ENDEAVOUR by Peter6172 - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1/65

[Peter6172]

Ok onto my second build and I expect this one will be a little more of a challenge than PORT JACKSON.

 

The framework was a little loose so I had to be rather careful in assembly to ensure the frames not only lay flat but also symmetrical about the centreline and had the right space at the deck level for the beams to be fitted later.

Laying the deck was a relatively simple process having previously marked the centrelines on the false deck I laid full lengths of the 0.5mm strip material after rubbing the edges with a permanent black marker.  I chose to insert perimeter planks (not sure what these are actually called) so that the deck planks did not end in sharp points at the bulwark.  The plank joints and nails were marked by a 0.1mm permanent ink marker.

As can be seem in the picture, I had lots of time to spare while glue dried so I started work on the Foremast.  The mast pieces were turned in a mini lathe tapered by holding sandpaper on each side to support the material under pressure and runs the sandpaper up and down the tapered length until the diameters were met.  The squaring was achieved by marking a square on the end of the material and then running lines down the length and then sand to the lines.

It was at this point that I noted that some of the work done by ENDEAVOUR builders in the past reveal some potential errors in the Artesania kit so I bout the Parkin book but alas it does not provide sufficient detail on masts and yards.  It does however reveal some missing features in the deck which I will have to mark and amend.

Edited December 28, 2022 by Peter6172

[Peter6172]

I have moved along a little with ENDEAVOUR having started on the planking.   PORT JACKSON was done by wetting timber and bending over a soldering iron.  After finding that putting the timber strip in very hot water for a short while, I could achieve a nice even bend without the need to use a soldering iron which unfortunately can burn the inside of the curve.  This ship is also much bigger and requires three planks per row rather than a single plank.  So far I am following the Artensania instructions but I'm not sure I am going to stick to that as all the joins are close together which I am sure would not have been prototypical.I also did my first yard and although it meets the Artesania design, I feel is is in no way prototypical.

 

[DaveBaxt]

Nice to see another recent build log of the Endeavour. Looking good so far. Good luck with this build and I look forward to watching your progress.

[Bob Fraser]

Hi Peter

I'm along to watch as I've this one on the shelf at the moment, at the same stage as yourself with the hull. Complete lack of time at the moment means all my builds are on hold. :-(

 

I don't know if you've looked at the NMM site but they have 14 technical drawings and a 1947 model that show a lot of detail.  Link ->   Endeavour at NMM 

Anatomy of the Ship Endeavour by Marquardt (Conway Press) is a good book, but you'll need to look around for a reasonable price near you as they're going for £35 to an incredible £230!

 

All the best,

Bob

 

[BANYAN]

Nice work Peter, looking good!  AL's hull is fairly accurate so should make for a nice model.  I ignored everything else AL provided and scratch built or 'bashed' most of the other fittings when I built mine.

 

I'll tag along with interest.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[shipaholic]

Welcome Peter good stuff so far, I will follow your build with interest. I just checked out that new version of Endeavour on the AL website, its completely different to their old version, with many laser cut wood and metal parts it looks so much better, and I think the hull paper template idea is a great to get everything where it should be

Edited February 6, 2022 by shipaholic
extra text

[Peter6172]

Well I made some changes on the Foremast I had already made to Artesania's instructions.  The Fore Topmast (before per Artesania instructions  and after) and the modified Fore Topgallant Mast are shown.  The new Topmast is made from Tasmanian Oak and to the design of Marquardt.  I have also been making some adjustments to the Lower Mast section but having already assembled with Cheeks, Cross tree Platform etc I was loathe to throw 'baby out with the bathwater'.  The variations were minor in nature. 

Edited February 8, 2022 by Peter6172
spelling errors

[BANYAN]

You're making good progress, every improvement no matter how minor adds to better detailing of your model.

Peter, if you have Maquardft's AOTS be aware there is a scaling error printed for the masts (page 88) Masts and Yards G4.  I spoke with the author whom informed he provided all his drawings at 1:48 but the publishing team rescaled them but in this instance put the wrong scale on the page.  shipaholic found and alerted us to this error and may be able to point out any further issues, but I found the rest of the book OK (leaving aside any differences in opinion of some of the fittings, such as bumpkins, etc.

 

cheers
pat

[Peter6172]

Finally received replacement blocks and cleats and scale rope so I can do some actual pre rigging work rather than practice for ENDEAVOUR.  I received some excellent material on masts and yards from ANMM so changes have been made to Artenasia's instructions and used the tables in The Art of Rigging to align block size and rope size for each of the rigging components (based on 300t ship).  I have made up one of the Burton Pendants with Thimble (per table) rather than SB (per Marquardt) on 0.9mm rope served laboriously by hand with Gutermann thread.  I have also progressed first planking to about 25% and made up the basic bones of the Bow sprit.

I can see that this ship will be a challenge base don the limited working space that I have.  At least I have a 27in screen to read the 516 pages of pdf instructions that Artesania provides.

 

[Peter6172]

Another day and some more challenges to tackle.  Today I set about replacing the oversized d spritsail support with a correct sized (and correct mounting) support for the Foremast lower yard.

I used 3/16" bendable tube, 1mm rod and 1/16x1/32 flat bar brass for the components.  A 1mm hole was drilled into the tube and bar which were then cut to length and filed (the bar was bent around a former slightly smaller than the final resting point on the yard before being cut to length).

I then soldered the rod into the tube, cleaned up the joint and then mounted on the yard by drilling a 1mm hole into the yard so the final assembly was fixed in the right position when the tube/rod was pushed through the bar into the yard.  Photo attached.

Final fixing was with CA.  

I also used the 1/16x1/32 bar for the brass collars on the first anchor formed with needle nose pliers and the join soldered, before cleaning and chemically blackening. 

[Peter6172]

Some progress since receiving my blocks and scale rope.  I am making up and bagging discrete rigging elements that can be fitted when time comes.

[Peter6172]

Bay...bathwater... sound familiar?

I received my "serving machine" in the post and have redone my serving - so much better than my manual efforts so the previously made served rigging has been dumped.  

I have fitted out the bowsprit with Fore and preventer stay deadeyes and the Bobstay deadeye as well as lashing the jib boom to the bowsprit.

I have also bee busy with the deck fitting, features, structures but they remain unfinished as I am loathe to paint everything red per the instructions.  I will have to do more reading before committing to painting everything.

I have also temporarily fitted wooden hoops to the foremast and bowsprit using white heat shrink.  Only coloured with a caramel marker to see what they look like (waiting for some paint).

Planking continues.  I have got to the point where straight planks are no longer working to I will need to start tapering at bow and stern.

[allanyed]

Very nice Peter (except maybe the screen shot of SOS, on your computer screen instead of MSW.🤐)

[Peter6172]

Did a light sand on the port side of ENDEAVOURs hull to see how I was going.  Looks like only slight seems to fill so far so I'm happy with the way the first planking is going.  Might consider no doing second planking and simply stain hull

I have also completed the Ships Bell stand and finished planking the longboat.

[allanyed]

Peter

Have you studied the planking tutorials?  There appears to be no taper to the planks you have installed so you will run out of the space needed to land them at the rabbet where they should be.   If the planks are not tapered properly you will wind up with this, which no shipwright would have ever considered.

 

 

Edited February 20, 2022 by allanyed

[Peter6172]

6 hours ago, allanyed said:

Peter

Have you studied the planking tutorials?  There appears to be no taper to the planks you have installed so you will run out of the space needed to land them at the rabbet where they should be.   If the planks are not tapered properly you will wind up with this, which no shipwright would have ever considered.

Allan,

 

Yes I have. ENDEAVOUR has a particularly bluff bow.   I have just go to the point where I need to start the taper:  10 Planks from main deck complete; 22 more 5mm planks tapering from 5mm midships to 3mm at bow and 2.3mm at stern.

[DaveBaxt]

      Hope  your method works out for you. Further to what Allan has suggested .If you get a chance have a look at Chucks videos on marking off the planks then cutting them to fit . Also not forgetting edge ways bending. with a bit of practice the planks will fit much better. Sorry if you are already aware of this otherwise.I hope this helps. Keep up the good work. Best regards Dave 

Edited February 21, 2022 by DaveBaxt

[Peter6172]

6 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

      Hope  your method works out for you. Further to what Allan has suggested .If you get a chance have a look at Chucks videos on marking off the planks then cutting them to fit . Also not forgetting edge ways bending. with a bit of practice the planks will fit much better. Sorry if you are already aware of this otherwise.I hope this helps. Keep up the good work. Best regards Dave 

Yes Dave,  I have marked our all the planks now I'm at the taper stage (not shown in the image).  I remeasured after Allans comments made me a little apprehensive and have I confirmed 2.9mm Bow, 5mm Midships and 4mm Stern.  I am also bevelling all the planks top edges.

The visible seem gaps I have were a result of me not waiting till my planks were completely dry before glueing in place.  I have slowed to one plank layer a day now to make sure the planks are thoroughly dry before glueing in place.

[Peter6172]

After some discussion on and off line about tapering I felt I needed to do some testing of plank bending to see if I should follow tutorial instructions, Artesenia's instructions or Marquardt's drawings. 

I 'steamed' a plank in boiled water in a thermos for and hour then put it to the framing and started the compound bend required to meet Marquardts drawings.  I was pleasantly surprised to see just how forgiving the plank material is.   There are a couple of flats that have occurred due to clamping but the plank was pretty well unsupported as I bent it on the frames away from any other planks but following the planking lines I drew on the frames.  Still its pretty well followed the contours without objection so I will continue to follow the Marquardt drawings for the planking of ENDEAVOUR.  

NOTE: The loose piece on the outside of the bend is not a split.  Its a loose piece on the outside corner I caught when I thought about tapering but decided not too bother in case the bend failed.

 

Edited February 23, 2022 by Peter6172
extra info

[BANYAN]

Your making some good progress there Peter, and gad to see you are sorting out the plank bending.  Spiling (shaping) planks to fit correctly is an art that requires some practice.  Attached is a photo of the Endeavour replica which was posted previously on this site (I think -source unknown).  It may help to see how they did it on a real life replica.

 

cheers

Bluff Bow Planking Primer.pdf

Pat

[Peter6172]

Ahhhh.  Another finding today.

I looked more closely at the Artesania kits planking instructions of the transom and stern and then compared it to the Marquardt and Parkin drawings to realise that there is a vast difference.

It will mean I have 3 rows of planks to remove at the stern and removal of half the material on the transom below the windows before I can recommence planking at the stern.

[Peter6172]

Regrettably I have had to walk back in time and remove three rows o planks at the stern of ENDEAVOUR so that I could examine the framing structure to determine how much modification is required to plank the stern to match the original ENDEAVOUR.

It would appear that the replica did not follow the planking arrangement of the original which is understanding considering the financial pressures the replica project was under at the time.

Thankfully, the planks were persuaded to let go with the use of a very sharp thin blade.

I have fitted my first test plank at the stern and await the outcome.  Again the planks were very forgiving.  I also did a test bend at the keel line and again the planks will form the compound curvature needed to meet the originals planking profile.

 

[Peter6172]

sed my hand drilling was not as accurate as needed when creating the pulleys in the ends of the catheads.  I had some odds and ends hanging around so I put a small pillar drill together.  

The old 1560 aluminium extrusion base from the mini lathe, a linear bearing, 775 12/24vdc motor and mini chuck all connected to a square shelf.  Just need some wire, a switch and a DC plug.  The rubber band works a treat in lieu of a spring.

Edited March 1, 2022 by Peter6172
spelling

[Peter6172]

Building seems to have slowed but I have only 10 rows of planks to go.

I have been dabbling with a Cannon and ist associated rigging but I am struggling with identifying the right combination of thread and serving to strop the blocks with.  

I tried 0.5mm first before quickly dropping to 0.15mm.  The image below shows a 3mm SB stropped with 0.15mm Amarti thread served with Guttermann 2776 thread while the smaller combination is a 3mm block with Guttermann 2776 Thread served with the same thread.   Both have 0.5mm wire hooks as are the hooks, rings and ring bolts.  I think I will try using 0.3mm wire instead.

Finding that my serving is not tight enough as the completed served rope need to be pushing to the start to make the serve more right-angled but this also has a tendency of loosening the serve.    More serving practice is required.....

 

I have used 0.6mm Ropes of Scale for the primary retarder rope seized with 0.15mm Amarti thread.

Edited March 14, 2022 by Peter6172
add detail

[Peter6172]

Well I have finally finished the first plank and preliminary sanding.  There's a couple of small gaps to be be filled that revealed themselves when the planks were sanded back (bevelling not done as accurately as I should have).  

I am using finely sanded plank material mixed with PVA, water and detergent to fill the gaps between planks.

The dark areas on the planks were a result of a previous fill with the PVA mix eating with a steel applicator.  I have to do a little more shaping sanding around the deadwood area before getting onto the cherry whales I plan to use.

I am happy how the planking went keeping as close to the original line of planking as I could.

 

 

[Peter6172]

Rather than remove the entire plank I have chosen to remove the offending section using a small chisel and replace with a short piece of plank material. I did not remove the entire depth of plank so the new piece will be planed then sanded down. If this transition works well I will consider the small section right on the bow along the same plank.

[Peter6172]

Progress has moved on a little since completing first plank.  

 

I have sanded and faired the hull and added whales (pre-stained black) as well as the bulwark/deck line trim.  I have added some fine baltic pine woodlblend filler on the unstained area of the hull and put a fist coat of royal blue on the bulwarks.  

 

The lower hull has been stained walnut to represent the muddy dark shade that the hull was described as on the Australian voyage.  Some minor areas filled to be sanded and the bow.

 

The anchor rubbing timbers are installed per the Marquardt drawings.  Not sure how large the bolster was but I made a guess and installed.

 

I will spend the next week sanding and finishing the hull and progress to the stern decorations and rudder installation.

Edited April 3, 2022 by Peter6172

[Peter6172]

Made some more progress however the weather has been appalling here in Eastern Australia with high humidity low temperatures and non stop rain.  My first coat of varnish has been on for 4 days and its still tacky but it is slowly drying.

Have test fitted the deck fitting to see where things go before I mark up the deck and bulwark for holes for ring bolts and securing cleats plus holes for the bitt posts.  I also need to remove the square ends on the bitt posts to make them upright on the sloped quarterdeck.

Some imperfections under the blue paint need to be dealt with too.

[Peter6172]

After drying out the varnish in the sun, I found a couple of gaps open up in the planking of the lower hull.  The material used in the kit must really soak up moisture.  I have had to putty, sand and revarnish the lower hull and now its time to put varnish on it again so its likely to set me back a few more days.

In the meantime, I have cut the heads off the windless support castings and manufactured my own windlass supports from wood gluing on the heads when completed.  Getting the metal to look like wood is a little beyond my skills at the moment.

[BANYAN]

The heads may have been painted anyway Peter, that was my choice anyway :).  You're making good progress and I like that 'brown stuff' bottom..

 

cheers

 

Pat