Niagara by lb0190 - Model Shipways - 1/64

[lb0190]

Brian,

 

Sorry I did not answer your questions regarding battens, but I suspect you rec'ed a lot of good advice. I also did not like the approach of pinning battens in place. I used the battens to find my belt lines and then traced the batten edge on each bulkhead with a pencil. Once my belt was defined, I found the widest spot and measured the width to determine the number of planks needed. I then measured the distance at each bulkhead, divided the measurement by the number of planks to determine the needed plank width at each bulkhead. If you look back on pg 14 of my build log you will see an example of the spreadsheet I came up with.

Edited August 9, 2014 by lb0190

[kenr]

Larry

Regarding your deck planking .

Are you first fitting the hatch skylight and companionship coamings  

If you have a look at page 18 in the Instruction Manual you will

see that is how they recommend to do it

 

Regards

Ken

[lb0190]

Hi Ken,

 

I'm using the alternate method of attaching them on the top of the deck, by adjusting the overall height. If I do not like the results I'll cut the deck planks and attach to the sub-structure.

[Don Quixote]

 

spreadsheet I came up with.

I used that, and the fan template and compared. The fan template is great but spreadsheet or template, I can't get an exact measurement from the calipers. I split the difference, miss by a mile and try to do better the next time. I don't dare toss too many mis cuts... I've already asked model-expo for several packages.

 

It's been about 3 weeks and I just finished band A on both sides. Between 3 or 4 hours a night. Or is it 3 hr, 59 min. on MSW and 1 minute on the ship?

[milosmail]

How is the planking going? Here are a couple of thought. Planks do need to be tapered within the belts (duh) as they approach the bow, but no plank should be tapered less than half its width. Are you aware of the joggle strip technique? I don't have any photos, but essentially you make a custom fitted piece to dove tail into two narrow pieces near the bow. Sort of the opposite of stealers, which you will need at the stern. If you have access to recent issues of Ships in Scale, there are a series of articles on planking by Bob Hunt which demonstrate the use of stealers and joggle strips. 

Planks will not necessarily lie flat (although this is the ideal), but you must exercise care that planks doe not curve downward at either end. There is a tendency for planks to do that on some models, if not corrected.

Have you been beveling your pieces? This helps with the fit as well, especially where hull curvature is pronounced. Otherwise you will have gaps between planks. These can be filled with wood putty, but I find that the puttied areas do not look the same as the natural wood after painting. I prefer beveling.

The planking layout shown on sheet two do not show any joggle strips, but no two models are exactly the same. In fact, the two sides of the ship will not be the same, so don't try to force it. And remember, painting will hide a lot of the planking detail (and errors).

If you can't find the SIS articles, post a reply and I will try to find a photo. 

[Laxet]

I installed a couple of these "joggle" strips on my ship. I tried not to but sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do. I also installed a couple of stealers on each side, too.

[lb0190]

I've finally completed installation of my deck planks, which now require sanding and re staining. If you look closely you will see some plank seams appear darker than others. This darkness is due to the plank being slightly higher than the plank it's mated to, showing more pencil marked edge than intended. Sanding should eliminate that issue but I am a bit concerned about being able to sand the deck evenly.

 

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I decided to install full deck length planks and not to install the nibbing plank. I realize this is definitely non-scale but I believe this keeps the build well within my skill-set and due to the size of the ship keeps what will be a busy deck, more appealing to me.

 

Home life has been very busy and hectic, keeping out of the shop (as well as MSW), but laying 2-3 planks at a time has finally resulted in my laying the last plank this morning. 

 

I hope all my friends on MSW are doing well and in good health!

[russ]

Larry:

The deck looks good. No deck was ever perfect. Just get it as even as you can and I am sure it will be fine.

 

Russ

[Sjors]

That's not bad at all Larry !

When you are doing a little bit of sanding and then stain on it, I think there will be not much difference between the planks.

And just what Russ is saying....no deck was ever perfect !

 

Sjors

[lb0190]

Hi Russ and Sjors,

 

Thanks for looking in and for your input as well as the compliments. I understand what your saying and agree it's very easy to get caught up in looking for results that are beyond reasonable. I'll do a little sanding and try not not to overdue it. Most of what I do not like is in isolated areas.

[Laxet]

It's amazing how different it looks without deck furniture. Nice work so far.

[popeye the sailor]

nice looking deck Larry........if it's that plank on the starboard side edge,  it might be covered with a cannon.   I wouldn't sweat it

 

sand + a nice light stain for tint + nice clear coat = a sweet looking deck!

[lb0190]

Thank you Dale and Popeye. Yes, it's that plank and a few more. I started light sanding using an Emory board glued to wood. So far the sanding has helped and all I need to do is not sand too much.

[aliluke]

Looking good to me Larry.

 

Keep it up and I look forward to more.

[lb0190]

Good morning Alistair,

 

Thank you. Since my post yesterday I sanded and scraped the deck to where I'm satisfied with the how it looks. Now all I need to do is reapply the pre-stain and restain with my 50% diluted Golden Oak - hopefully I'll get a fairly even color. The photo was taken after sanding and scraping.

[lb0190]

Here ya go... one completed deck. The room was a little dark and I did not use the camera flash due to my usually getting too much reflection, resulting in slightly dark photos and the deck stain is not quite as dark as it appears. Even though I used a pre-stain, I still ended up with some light and dark planks but I convinced myself that is closer to reality than a very consistent color.

 

I sanded with 220 grit paper glued to a piece of wood, a fine Emory board glued to a piece of wood, plus I used an electric mini sander in places where needed (THANKS Augie for pointing out this wonderful little tool!) and finished up with 0000 steel wool.

 

Overall I'm satisfied with the final outcome.

 

I have a question for you modelers who been down this road before. Should I coat the deck at this time with wipe on poly to help protect it (that's my current train of thought)? I'm open to ideas. I also have the Model Expo Clear Satin Coat and plan on using Dull Coat afterwards to remove and residual shine. What is your favorite way to protect the deck finish?

 

Since the deck is basically complete, I'm doing my normal second guessing myself for not leaving openings for the deck furniture. Current plans will be make one item to see how it looks attached to the top of the deck. If I do not like the appearance, I'll bevel the bottom edge inward and scribe the outline and remove deck material so it's slightly recessed (the thought of doing this curls my toes.  

 

 

[russ]

Larry:

The deck looks good. I generally do not put any finish on the deck before I get all the deck fixtures in place. I like to use hidden dowels in the bottoms of deck fixtures so that they will be fixed in place on the deck. I can remove a hatch coaming and know that when it goes back it is in the same place every time.

 

Russ

[popeye the sailor]

I do.......couple coats of semi gloss lacquer.   decks are usually a flat shine anyway......it sucks into the deck and is pretty much fully cured,  by the time I do the fittings.  I like to leave the structure placements unplanked...when they are set in place,  you won't see any separation lines.  it's a real pain to get them to sit flush on the deck....to me,  anyway.   smaller fittings,  I may use pin locators....but for the most part,  a little CA,  and they stay put

 

I've not tried a wipe on poly.........it's a urethane,  so it may seep into the wood and cure.  I don't use a varnish,  since it deals with mineral spirits,  rather than acetates.  the suspension in varnish,  I believe,  would sit on the surface of the wood,  rather than seep in.  an unprotected deck would attract dust faster and invite scratching.  you've done a beautiful job on that deck Larry 

[augie]

 That deck looks great, Larry.  On the finish, I generally complete the staining and then a light coat of poly after that.  Like Russ, I pin everything with wire (not the guns).  When all is in place, I go with Dullcoat over almost everything.

[lb0190]

Good morning Russ, Popeye, & Augie,

 

Thanks everyone for the input. Since I have WOP, I think I'll do a sample test to make sure the outcome looks OK to me, if it does not appeal to me I'll look into using lacquer. I'm pretty rough on the model when working on it and the finish would hopefully prevent me from scratching the deck. I'll plan on pinning deck structures - thanks again!!!

 

After applying the finish, I'll move on to applying the exterior details to the hull take I believe should be mounted before painting, ie fashion piece, bow plank doubler, Hawse pipe holes, stern mooring chocks, etc..

[milosmail]

Very nice deck, Larry. Wood finish looks natural as is.

I usually mount or mark deck coamings positions, cut planks to fit around. But I may try installing on top this time. I still hope to use nibbling strake, but if it gets too difficult, I will abandon. I probably will run planks full length, as you did. 

[lb0190]

Hi Steve,

 

Thanks for the compliment and for taking time to visit. I lived in Ca. (Lancaster) for eleven years, working at Mojave Airport and Edwards AFB furing my flight test years.

 

I thought the nibbing strake looked a bit too difficult for me, especially at this scale. I hope to give it try on my next build and will choose the kit carefully in regard to scale, to make sure the planks are larger than what I'm currently working with. 

[scott larkins]

that came out really nice.

[lb0190]

Good morning Scott - thank you, It's been a fun and challenging build.

[lb0190]

I have a small update, regarding what I'm working on and my approach to what I thought would be a very difficult if not impossible task, due to the size. I've postponed framing in the gun and sweep ports for a while and even thought about skipping that detail, but seeing how much it dressed up the ship I started working this item yesterday.

 

The first photo shows what tools and wood i'm using.

• clothes pin
• Dental tools
• chop sticks sanded into wedges
• emery-board 
• 1/32" x 3/8" wood

As the photos show, once the side planks are cut to size I use white glue and wedges to hold the plank in place as the glue dries. Once it dries I cut the excess wood away and then sand it down flush. Finishing all twenty two gun ports and eighteen sweep ports will take a while at my present pace, but time is what I have 

 

[scott larkins]

That seems to have worked out rather well for you.  When I get to this step I'll have to keep it in mind.  Seems like a clean alternative to framing before hand.

[augie]

Shaping up nicely.  Glad you decided to include these details.

[lb0190]

Hi Augie - Thanks and welcome back from your trip. I wonder sometimes if I provide too much minor detail such as the above, but hopefully someone will benefit, including me if another builder responds with another method easier or better. Your Confederacy build is very impressive!

[augie]

Thanks Larry.  Haven't gotten back to the shipyard yet but will soon.  

[Sjors]

Everyone has is own way to do something Larry,

 

I like yours       

Nice progress !!!!!

 

Sjors