king derelict Posted February 24, 2022 Author Share #31 Posted February 24, 2022 On 2/22/2022 at 4:46 AM, Baker said: Nice start. I sometimes use a small dot of CA glue until the parts stay in the right place. And then very thin liquid glue for the stronger connection. Thank you Patrick Thats a good tip; I will follow that next time. Many Thanks Alan popeye the sailor, Canute, lmagna and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted February 24, 2022 Author Share #32 Posted February 24, 2022 I retreated from the Wasp PE this afternoon with shaking fingers and worked a little more on the Abrams as a bit of stress relief. I moved onto adding details to the turret. The lovely Flyhawk detail is there in large amounts. This is a lovely single piece moulded part for the main hatch It even has a clear insert for teh viewing ports There are several clear pieces for the viewing ports. I am trying to work with subassemblies that can have the clear parts added after painting before final assembly rather than masking. The 0.50 cal is another well detailed item. The barrel is hollowed and the individual rounds are visible in the belt More details added with the side rails and plates. There are still several parts to finish the turret and then its off to the paint barn. I have a naive question for the experts. the kit instructions has the clear plastic pieces for the viewing ports painted clear red. I'm not sure what that is trying represent. So far all the images I have seen don't show any red at the viewing ports. I had planned to leave them clear but would welcome input on this. Many Thanks Thanks for looking in Alan Jack12477, popeye the sailor, Baker and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted February 24, 2022 Share #33 Posted February 24, 2022 17 minutes ago, king derelict said: I retreated from the Wasp PE this afternoon with shaking fingers and worked a little more on the Abrams as a bit of stress relief. I moved onto adding details to the turret. The lovely Flyhawk detail is there in large amounts. This is a lovely single piece moulded part for the main hatch It even has a clear insert for teh viewing ports There are several clear pieces for the viewing ports. I am trying to work with subassemblies that can have the clear parts added after painting before final assembly rather than masking. The 0.50 cal is another well detailed item. The barrel is hollowed and the individual rounds are visible in the belt More details added with the side rails and plates. There are still several parts to finish the turret and then its off to the paint barn. I have a naive question for the experts. the kit instructions has the clear plastic pieces for the viewing ports painted clear red. I'm not sure what that is trying represent. So far all the images I have seen don't show any red at the viewing ports. I had planned to leave them clear but would welcome input on this. Many Thanks Thanks for looking in Alan Alan some people paint the (inside) of the clear blocks with Red/Orange/Purple, it can look quite good - like these pics of the net. OC. Baker, Edwardkenway, Jack12477 and 4 others 7 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted February 24, 2022 Share #34 Posted February 24, 2022 6 hours ago, king derelict said: I have a naive question for the experts. the kit instructions has the clear plastic pieces for the viewing ports painted clear red. I'm not sure what that is trying represent. So far all the images I have seen don't show any red at the viewing ports. I had planned to leave them clear but would welcome input on this. Many Thanks Alan, that tinting is the polarization of the viewing ports so they don't get glare and reflections when the look thru them... On my kit of the Abrams I have the aftermarket films used to replicate it... you see it on all the glass where they look thru it from the inside, including the targeting and range finders... and yes it is different colors on different glass panels... You guys are going really trying to get me to start this thing aren't you.... {chuckle} Two ways to go about it putting that tint on the windows, get the various colors of clear paint washes, or cheaper, food coloring mixed in Future/Pledge acrylic finish coating the insides... Just enough to give a decent coloring to the future... Then, when colored and dry, dip the entire part in clear future to seal it in... Jack12477, Canute, Edwardkenway and 3 others 6 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
popeye the sailor Posted February 24, 2022 Share #35 Posted February 24, 2022 magic marker can also be used sweet look'in tank! Old Collingwood, Egilman, Canute and 2 others 5 Quote I yam wot I yam! finished builds: Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build Billing T78 Norden in dry dock: Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20 Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400 Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted February 25, 2022 Author Share #36 Posted February 25, 2022 23 hours ago, Old Collingwood said: Alan some people paint the (inside) of the clear blocks with Red/Orange/Purple, it can look quite good - like these pics of the net. OC. Many Thanks OC I'll try that. My initial experiment seems to suggest that with teh tiny clear parts in question I may get a better look by using transparent paint on the outer surface.. More experiments I think Thank you for the help Alan Old Collingwood, mtaylor, Canute and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted February 25, 2022 Author Share #37 Posted February 25, 2022 17 hours ago, Egilman said: Alan, that tinting is the polarization of the viewing ports so they don't get glare and reflections when the look thru them.. Egilman; as always you provide great help. Many Thanks. I found I have some transparent photographic inks (for hand colouring black and white or sepia prints) and the colours look promising. On their own they don't lay on the surface well so I mixed them with Future which improved things but still not too good. I'm going to try again with a clear coat of some sort. I have some AK that I can try. I may be onto a possible solution. Experiments on the clear sprue. The magenta and blue look good. The red may be showing its age Thanks for the help alan Jack12477, Old Collingwood, Baker and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted February 25, 2022 Author Share #38 Posted February 25, 2022 6 hours ago, popeye the sailor said: magic marker can also be used sweet look'in tank! Thanks Popeye. I have a red and blue magic marker that I can play with. This is a great little kit Alan Old Collingwood, mtaylor, Edwardkenway and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted February 25, 2022 Author Share #39 Posted February 25, 2022 The garden demanded attention today so not a huge amount of progress. I'm still on the turret. I added the last bits of PE and worked on teh baskets (for want of a more tank-like word) at the rear of the turret. Some nice PE gratings go into the very delicate railings. Its a bit fiddly but looks nice when its done. There is a second optional set that mounts onto the inner ones. I decided to go for it having already made it up before realising that it was optional. The plates on the forward sides of the turret and the additional basketwork at the rear pretty much locks me into my choice of markings given as options. Thanks for looking in alan Baker, popeye the sailor, Egilman and 7 others 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted February 25, 2022 Share #40 Posted February 25, 2022 2 hours ago, king derelict said: Many Thanks OC I'll try that. My initial experiment seems to suggest that with teh tiny clear parts in question I may get a better look by using transparent paint on the outer surface.. More experiments I think Thank you for the help Alan No problem Alan, glad to help. OC. Canute, popeye the sailor, king derelict and 3 others 5 1 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted February 25, 2022 Share #41 Posted February 25, 2022 2 hours ago, king derelict said: The garden demanded attention today so not a huge amount of progress. I'm still on the turret. I added the last bits of PE and worked on teh baskets (for want of a more tank-like word) at the rear of the turret. Some nice PE gratings go into the very delicate railings. Its a bit fiddly but looks nice when its done. There is a second optional set that mounts onto the inner ones. I decided to go for it having already made it up before realising that it was optional. The plates on the forward sides of the turret and the additional basketwork at the rear pretty much locks me into my choice of markings given as options. Thanks for looking in alan That is looking so nice. OC. popeye the sailor, Canute, lmagna and 3 others 6 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted February 25, 2022 Share #42 Posted February 25, 2022 6 hours ago, king derelict said: Egilman; as always you provide great help. Many Thanks. I found I have some transparent photographic inks (for hand colouring black and white or sepia prints) and the colours look promising. On their own they don't lay on the surface well so I mixed them with Future which improved things but still not too good. I'm going to try again with a clear coat of some sort. I have some AK that I can try. I may be onto a possible solution. Experiments on the clear sprue. The magenta and blue look good. The red may be showing its age Thanks for the help My pleasure, I've never tried inks before, food coloring was always what I used cause it seems to mix well with whatever I put it in, besides, I have a ready supply of it from the Admirals baking supplies... My technique on tinted glass panels was to dip them in a little cup of the solution of coloring and Future rather than paint them, then place them face down on a paper towel allowing the paper to wick the colored future off the surface.. After a few minutes, (3-4) I would move them to another section of the towel so they didn't dry to the paper... Once dry, then dip them in completely clear future to give the outside a clear and shiny appearance... (also if the outside still had a bit of tint you could clean it off and the second dipping would restore the shine) Dipping ensures a smooth even coat which is what is required for tinting clear plastic and future dries ultra thin so an even coat is vital... I'm sure there are other techniques that will do as good a job, the secret is to get an even thin coat on the surface you want to tint... I'm sure you will find a solution that will work well for you... Old Collingwood, Edwardkenway, Jack12477 and 4 others 7 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted February 26, 2022 Author Share #43 Posted February 26, 2022 22 hours ago, Old Collingwood said: That is looking so nice. OC. Thank you very much OC. It has some very crisp detail. I'm enjoying how it is coming together. Alan lmagna, Old Collingwood, Canute and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted February 26, 2022 Author Share #44 Posted February 26, 2022 17 hours ago, Egilman said: My pleasure, I've never tried inks before, food coloring was always what I used cause it seems to mix well with whatever I put it in, besides, I have a ready supply of it from the Admirals baking supplies... My technique on tinted glass panels was to dip them in a little cup of the solution of coloring and Future rather than paint them, then place them face down on a paper towel allowing the paper to wick the colored future off the surface.. After a few minutes, (3-4) I would move them to another section of the towel so they didn't dry to the paper... Once dry, then dip them in completely clear future to give the outside a clear and shiny appearance... (also if the outside still had a bit of tint you could clean it off and the second dipping would restore the shine) Dipping ensures a smooth even coat which is what is required for tinting clear plastic and future dries ultra thin so an even coat is vital... I'm sure there are other techniques that will do as good a job, the secret is to get an even thin coat on the surface you want to tint... I'm sure you will find a solution that will work well for you... Thank you Egilman; that is more great advice. I will try that technique with the coloured Future using the ink as the colouring agent. I have some more clear sprues to play with before trying it on teh real parts. alan lmagna, Edwardkenway, Egilman and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted February 26, 2022 Author Share #45 Posted February 26, 2022 I was able to finish the turret as far as I want to go before painting. The 7.62 mg is another nice detail The kit provides some insanely small PE numerals to fit to one side of the turret. I'm not sure what they refer to as they seem to be independent of the unit markings in the decal set. I doubt they will be very visible after painting but I thought I would accept the challenge. Just cutting them out of the fret and getting them on the turret without losing them was a nerve wracking exercise. They are not as straight as i would like but they are in place. I used Future as the adhesive to set them. I would have lost them in the white Gators Grip glue. Its the first time I have tried it (I think @Landlubber Mike mentioned it somewhere) and it seemed to work well. Pure hubris! Thanks for looking in and have a great weekend everyone Alan Jack12477, oneslim, Egilman and 9 others 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardkenway Posted February 26, 2022 Share #46 Posted February 26, 2022 Really nice progress with the turret Alan, those numbers you've put on must have been almost impossible to keep hold of! Great dexterity 😉😄 Jack12477, mtaylor, Canute and 4 others 7 Quote Current builds; Henry Ramey Upcher 1:25 Providence whaleboat- 1:25 HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48 Completed: HM Cutter Sherbourne- 1:64- finished Triton cross section scratch- 1:60 - finished Non ship: SBD-3 Dauntless 1:48 Hasegawa -FINISHED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted March 1, 2022 Author Share #47 Posted March 1, 2022 On 2/26/2022 at 6:47 AM, Edwardkenway said: Really nice progress with the turret Alan, those numbers you've put on must have been almost impossible to keep hold of! Great dexterity 😉😄 Thank you very much Edward. I used a pin with a bit of beeswax on the point but it was really still an exercise in patience and bad language. I just put the first paint coats on and haven't dared look to see if they are still there or even visible 😄 Alan mtaylor, Egilman, popeye the sailor and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted March 5, 2022 Author Share #48 Posted March 5, 2022 A small update; its really all painting. i put down a coat of black Mig One Shot primer. I'm getting to like that paint; it seems to go on very evenly. Then a series of thin sand colour. I'm trying to get more shading in the paint by using the thin colours. Its bleached out a bit in the photos but it looks better in real life Now the road wheels and tracks Have a great weekend everyone Thanks for looking in Alan Canute, popeye the sailor, Egilman and 7 others 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted March 5, 2022 Share #49 Posted March 5, 2022 Thats looking really nice Alan - such a smart kit to start with and you are doing a fine job of it - remember its scale😲 OC. Egilman, mtaylor, Canute and 2 others 5 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
popeye the sailor Posted March 5, 2022 Share #50 Posted March 5, 2022 that a nice looking luggage rack on the back of the turret.......really nice detail paint looks great Egilman, Canute, mtaylor and 2 others 5 Quote I yam wot I yam! finished builds: Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build Billing T78 Norden in dry dock: Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20 Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400 Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted March 29, 2022 Author Share #51 Posted March 29, 2022 The jet lag is easing from the UK trip and I came back to this build after fraying my nerves with the Wasps netting PE. I painted the metal parts of the road wheels. Flyhawk provide a nice brass mask to mask the thin rubber rims. It fits over the rim of the wheel and is quite effective. Thirty two wheels painted Generally they came out quite well although some touch up is necessary. Looking at @Old Collingwood beautiful vision blocks made me vey dissatisfied with my trials will dyes and tints in gloss varnish. I'm looking at other ideas now This is my current inspiration Obviously I discarded the chocolate bar because I wanted the wrapper. I'm thinking the coloured foil might work if I can find suitable colours. I can then colour each aperture differently Now I need to do research at the grocery store Thanks for looking in Alan popeye the sailor, Edwardkenway, Canute and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted March 29, 2022 Author Share #52 Posted March 29, 2022 On 3/4/2022 at 9:39 PM, Old Collingwood said: Thats looking really nice Alan - such a smart kit to start with and you are doing a fine job of it - remember its scale😲 OC. Thank you OC Its another Flyhawk gem Alan popeye the sailor, lmagna, mtaylor and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted March 29, 2022 Author Share #53 Posted March 29, 2022 On 3/4/2022 at 10:41 PM, popeye the sailor said: that a nice looking luggage rack on the back of the turret.......really nice detail paint looks great Thanks Denis I now need to look at a suitable load for the bustle alan popeye the sailor, Egilman, Canute and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted March 29, 2022 Share #54 Posted March 29, 2022 Thats a great idea with that tinted foil - there should be loads of it around, love the idea for the wheel mask - so much easier than hand painting each one I will have to try and make something similar. OC. Edwardkenway, Canute, mtaylor and 2 others 5 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted March 30, 2022 Author Share #55 Posted March 30, 2022 3 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said: Thats a great idea with that tinted foil - there should be loads of it around, love the idea for the wheel mask - so much easier than hand painting each one I will have to try and make something similar. OC. Thanks OC. Wispa bars come in purple foil and i brought several back along with teh Crunchie bars and Twirls. I wish I had thought about this earlier and brought some Quality Street chocolates back; they have a great set of coloured foils. Alan Old Collingwood, Egilman, Jack12477 and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted March 30, 2022 Author Share #56 Posted March 30, 2022 Apart from the metallic foil research being conducted in the candy aisle I built up the tracks today. Flyhawk made quite a nice way to create them The inner road wheels and the return idlers go onto the axles and the rear inner sprocket half is installed The inner half of the track is added and keys into the sprocket. The outer road wheels are put on Then the outer half of the tracks and the outer half of the sprocket And the lower hull is ready for the deck Very restful stuff after the PE on the Wasp Thanks for looking in Alan Canute, Egilman, Baker and 7 others 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
popeye the sailor Posted April 1, 2022 Share #57 Posted April 1, 2022 I wouldn't be too critical with the touch ups on the bogies........it may help with the weathering you'll likely be adding other stuff to muddie them up. I've never seen split track before.........kinda neat! Edwardkenway, Egilman, Old Collingwood and 2 others 5 Quote I yam wot I yam! finished builds: Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build Billing T78 Norden in dry dock: Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20 Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400 Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted April 1, 2022 Author Share #58 Posted April 1, 2022 7 hours ago, popeye the sailor said: I wouldn't be too critical with the touch ups on the bogies........it may help with the weathering you'll likely be adding other stuff to muddie them up. I've never seen split track before.........kinda neat! Thanks Denis Thats a good point. I plan a fair amount of dust and sand around the road wheels and that will obscure the faults with the tyres. Alan Canute, lmagna, popeye the sailor and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted April 1, 2022 Author Share #59 Posted April 1, 2022 The research into appropriate foils for the vision blocks continued. I found I could buy 600 foil squares in six colours from Amazon for $12 or I could buy a grossly over priced box of Quality Street for $8. This left me with the dilemma of what to do with 594 squares of coloured foil or what to do with the chocolate. It arrived yesterday and my raw material stock was complete Its sort of like @Egilman metal finish research but without all his expertise and skill but with more calories The foil was a bit delicate to handle but I managed to place it into all teh vision block apertures and fixed it with PVA glue. Once this had set I gave it a coat of clear gloss to complete setting it in place and stiffen it. The hatch covers and turrets are just dry fitted to see how it looks Not as nice as @Old Collingwood but I think they are better than paint or dyes The deck was glued onto the lower hull and the warp mentioned earlier resulted in a poor fit at the rear bulkhead. I was able to pull it together with a bit of CA and a clamp but it will stull need a bit of filling. Thats all the bits together; now its time to add detail Thanks for looking in and have a great weekend alan Edwardkenway, Canute, ccoyle and 4 others 5 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted April 2, 2022 Share #60 Posted April 2, 2022 1 hour ago, king derelict said: Its sort of like @Egilman metal finish research but without all his expertise and skill but with more calories I think that is the chuckle of the day. king derelict, Edwardkenway, Canute and 5 others 5 2 1 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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