HMS Sphinx 1775 by aydingocer - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Revision #2

[aydingocer]

Photos 718-723: Some photos showing the progress and the completed mast. 

[aydingocer]

Photo 724: I am left with one confusion. What are the "[" and "]" shaped drawings around the mast caps? See the photo from the plan where I marked them (Ignore the question mark pointing at the loop at the block). At first I thought if they are the threads used for the crossjack lift blocks but it is not the way the blocks are tied.  There is no such thing in the photos either. This is the case in the plan for all three masts. Any clarification is appreciated.

 

That's all for now. Thanks for watching!

[chris watton]

Those [] are the drawings for the thread that the blocks are attached to. The thread wraps around the mast cap for the lower yard lifts. The loop at the end of each block indicates where the running tackle starts for the lift.

[aydingocer]

57 minutes ago, chris watton said:

Those [] are the drawings for the thread that the blocks are attached to. The thread wraps around the mast cap for the lower yard lifts. The loop at the end of each block indicates where the running tackle starts for the lift.

OK what gets me confused is that if I see correct, in the instruction photos (page 121) the blocks are wrapped around the mast, not around the mast cap. Is this a change from the prototype?

 

[James H]

18 minutes ago, aydingocer said:

OK what gets me confused is that if I see correct, in the instruction photos (page 121) the blocks are wrapped around the mast, not around the mast cap. Is this a change from the prototype?

 

 

More likely me not knowing anything about rigging and just wanting to get the job done. 

 

Do it the way Chris explains. 

 

This is also a reason I hate doing rig for instructions as I am clueless with it.

[aydingocer]

24 minutes ago, James H said:

 

More likely me not knowing anything about rigging and just wanting to get the job done. 

 

Do it the way Chris explains. 

 

This is also a reason I hate doing rig for instructions as I am clueless with it.

 Alright. I'll do the Main Mast and Fore Mast like that. I have already done the Mizzen Mast like in the photo, but I guess I can wrap a dummy thread around the mast cap just to make it look like in the plan. Thanks Chris and James for clarification.

[James H]

I don't doubt there's probably a few more anomalies on my rigging, but don't tell anyone if you see them 😆

 

I figured Chris didn't need me hassling him any more than I normally do during a prototype build, so I go into 'get it done' mode more often than not.

[OllieS]

Just a guess, but I would say that those blocks would be attached to the cap and not the upper mast because otherwise you would have a real problem if that mast ever needed to be replaced. Which they did.

[aydingocer]

1 hour ago, James H said:

I don't doubt there's probably a few more anomalies on my rigging, but don't tell anyone if you see them 😆

 

I figured Chris didn't need me hassling him any more than I normally do during a prototype build, so I go into 'get it done' mode more often than not.

Deal . Anyway, inaccuracy in instructions is common even in the most major manufacturers' kits and often they occur more than in this one. As opposed to with other brands, what we builders have here with Vanguard Model kits is the privilege to get instant first hand response to our questions from Chris and you and it is a big deal.

[aydingocer]

Build day 103-104: 6,5 hrs / Total 229,5 hours

 

Foremast Part 2.

Photos 726: This is how I keep track of the accessories to ensure I "leave no man behind". It will be a nightmare if you realize during rigging that you have missed installing a block. Red dots are "to do", green checks are "done".

[aydingocer]

Photo 727-729: Heart shaped blocks. There are a few different size of them but construction is the same. I need one of the closed hearts for the Foremast.

I brushed diluted glue and waited long enough for it to dry.

Edited June 13, 2023 by aydingocer

[aydingocer]

Photo 730: After a similar work as the Mizzen mast, now Foremast is ready (except for lower top rail stanchions in this photo)

That's all for now. Thanks for watching!

Edited June 13, 2023 by aydingocer

[aydingocer]

Build day 105-107: 5 hrs / Total 234,5 hours

 

Main mast Part 2.

 

Photos 730-732: Finally with the main mast details ready, the masts' construction is complete, to be followed by the bowsprit.  

[aydingocer]

Question about yards construction: On the plan (Sheet 19) it is instructed to paint all yards and booms in black, while in the photos the booms are left natural.

Is it a question of preference? 

[Glenn-UK]

2 hours ago, aydingocer said:

Question about yards construction: On the plan (Sheet 19) it is instructed to paint all yards and booms in black, while in the photos the booms are left natural.

Is it a question of preference? 

I went black

Edited June 14, 2023 by Glenn-UK

[aydingocer]

2 hours ago, Glenn-UK said:

I went black

Is it me seeing only small part of your photo? (most of the photo shows black)

Edited June 14, 2023 by aydingocer

[Glenn-UK]

12 minutes ago, aydingocer said:

Is it me seeing only small part of your photo? (most of the photo shows black)

No idea why that happen I have deleted and readded the picture and seems OK now

[aydingocer]

33 minutes ago, Glenn-UK said:

No idea why that happen I have deleted and readded the picture and seems OK now

Looks quite nice this way, too. I may try this. Haven't started the yards yet, though. I am currently building the bowsprit.

[James H]

I’m sure @chris wattonasked me to leave the booms in natural 😆

[aydingocer]

Build day 108: 2 hrs / Total 236,5 hours

 

Bowsprit construction starts.

 

Photo 733: I use this rough sand paper for flattening one end of the dowel. It works like a rasp, but with a better control.

 

Photo 734: Dry fitting with the cap during sanding. Here the cap has been already trimmed to the shape and holes treated to fit the dowels with an angle.

 

Photo 735: Bee and the cap glued in place.

 

Photo 736: Filling the gaps with the wood filler. Work pauses here for now, waiting for the filler to dry.

 

That's all for now. Thanks for watching!

 

[chris watton]

On most contemporary models, stunsail booms are left all natural, and some having the tips only painted.

[aydingocer]

Build day 109-110: 3,5 hrs / Total 240 hours

Bowsprit construction finished.

 

Photo 737: Painted the section to black after sanding the filler.

[aydingocer]

Photos 738-742: This is the way I attached the four blocks to the tip of the bowsprit. Gives a chance to adjust their positions accurately before fixing them on their final locations.

[aydingocer]

Photos 743-745: Installation of the heart shaped blocks followed by a photo of the finished bowsprit.

 

[aydingocer]

Photo 746: Short update after retuning from a one week trip. The hull is back on the table after the masts and the bowsprit constructions. Glued the bowsprit carefully into place. I dry fit first to make sure (following with the plans) to insert the bowsprit correct amount. It was a relief that when the bottom of the bowsprit finally touched the stopper inside the hull, it was exactly the right length. Here a cotton swab stick is holding the bowsprit in correct height until the glue has dried, preventing it otherwise from resting on top of the lady's head.

Next I will continue with bowsprit gammoning and rigging the bowsprit shrouds and stays once I have gathered my courage 😅.

 

 

Edited July 10, 2023 by aydingocer

[aydingocer]

Question: In step 689 of the manual, just before construction of the boats, we are advised to leave the Quarterdeck Hammock Cranes for now, as this could impede the fitting of the shrouds. When is the good time to install them? I can't see them in the final completed model photos either.

Thanks in advance.

 

[chris watton]

As they are very close to the shrouds, it may be better to leave them off altogether.

[aydingocer]

13 hours ago, chris watton said:

As they are very close to the shrouds, it may be better to leave them off altogether.

Looking at the photos from Blue Ensign's build log, indeed they would obstruct the shrouds. Hence I'll skip them. Looked fine on his model since he skipped rigging.

 

[aydingocer]

Yards' construction.

 

Photos 747-752: As the yards need tapering from both ends, here is how I do it.

I cut the dowel around 2cm longer than the yard. The excess amount is for inserting into the screwdriver. The red arrow shows the full yard length. Yellow tapes mark the sections (exclusive) that will be tapered.

Then I turn on the drilling machine and use the rough sandpaper on a sand block, starting from the far end of the dowel. It helps to press slightly on the dowel with a finger to put the necessary pressure, without burning your finger with the heat from the friction.

Once I have achieved the final shape, I use a 400 grit sanding stick for smoothening the surface.

Next the other end (i.e. close to the drilling machine). Handling this part after the far end reduces the risk of breaking the dowel, as otherwise it could get too thin to stand the vibration while tapering the other end.

Tapering done. It is time to chop off the drilling machine insert.

Ready

 

 

[allanyed]

Hi Aydingocer

This is great as you show a very clever way to do this with a simple tool such as your drill. 

 

Do the yards on a sixth rate have an octagon center quarter?  The octagon shape in the center quarter of the yards started about 1690 according The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, page 13 but Lees does not say if all yards on all rates had this design feature after 1690 so I am curious.  Volume IV of TFFM by David Antscherl describes the octagon on the yards of a 14 gun sloop.  If they do take this shape, it is probably easier to make the octagon at the maximum dimension needed, then sand as you have clearly shown leaving the center quarter as an octagon. 

Allan