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Vasa By 72Nova - FINISHED - Airfix - PLASTIC


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Made a little progress starting with securing all the lower dead eye lanyards, the main futtock-shrouds, the main topmast halliard, I had to fabricate a two sheave rams head for this and the main top gallant halliard that I'm actually quite pleased with how it turned out even though they are not secured yet. As Always thanks for looking.

 

Michael D.

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The main top gallant halliard  is now completed with the excess crowfeet lines trimmed and the fall led to the inside sheave of the main bitts. The supplied masts and spars are holding their own thus far, stretching the lines for a few days and preparing the halliards and crowfeet off the model prior to rigging helps a lot to prevent distortion of the masts and spars.

 

Michael D.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Making a little progress on the Mizen mast, the lower and top mast shrouds, lanyards and ratlines are completed. While I will not be displaying any canons on the ship, I will display three of them at the base to represent the ones found, so here's a sample one using what's supplied in the kit, I'm still pondering whether or not to add the eye bolts, if I do, I'll use 32ga wire for scale purposes.

Thanks for looking.

Michael D.

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The main top gallant yard for the most part is complete, as you can see, I have setup temporary topsail lifts to facilitate rigging the clews, the top gallant lifts are led to the top mast top and the clews are brought down to the main top, I usually leave the lines slightly weighted for a day or so to hold their shape before tying them off. Up next is the top sail yard. As always thanks for following along.

 

Michael D.

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While working on the main top sail yard, I've completed the fore top gallant port bowline, to simulate blocks on the bridles I used .030" styrene rod and introduced just enough slack so I wouldn't distort the stay, I think it looks presentable enough.

 

Michael D.

 

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The exercise the last couple of days is finishing up the bowsprit area, while not quite there yet I did manage to complete about 90% of the needed work. Overall, I'm pretty satisfied with result.

Michael D.

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17 hours ago, Hubac's Historian said:

As you should be, Michael.  Just outstanding!

Fully Agree!

Great!!!

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With the spritsail sheets left do, I needed to mock them up along with the anchor so I could get a sense of how much slack I can introduce into the sheet and clear the anchor. The anchor mods once again start with the kit supplied piece, scribed a line down the middle to give the elusion the stock appears as two pieces, next I needed to give the stock a heavy distressed look before adding the bolts. For the ring I used 0.74mm wire and wrapped it with 100wt thread, the double cathead block measures under 4mm and 24ga wire for the band and hook.     

 

Michael D.                                                                                                                                                                                    20230623-191243.jpg20230622-202628.jpg20230623-143731.jpg20230623-200232.jpg 

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The port side anchor is in its final placement, I did redo the cathead block to a 3mm instead of the 3.95mm as it looked rather too large, the spritsail sheet pendant is .20mm line and is led trough a bullseye hanging from the foremost fore shroud and the anchor line is .88mm. Thanks for looking.

 

Michael D.

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Thank you, Marc, what started out as an experiment ended up a keeper 😁. Thank you for the compliment Daniel, very much appreciated! I reattached the double fairlead under the knee I had removed earlier when reworking the trail board, I also rerouted the spritsail sheet pendant below the anchor and installed one gun port lid, up next, I will add the clews to the fore course sail so I can proceed with rigging the tacks then the bowlines and that should complete the rigging up front, also I will not be adding the anchor bouy's.

 

Michael D.

 

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Good day Michael,

Anchor assembly looks very good!

All the best!

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Small update, the starboard anchor is completed, as you can see just left it in the hanging position, the brass wire you see aids in creating some sag as the sheet pendant passes through the bullseye when gluing.

 

Michael D.

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Good day,

All looks good, however have question ,how did You rig spripsail sheet ...it is not clear from the pictures... as I understood...at least looking at old dutch pictures...there should be long pendant which passes throug hanging bulleye attached to the first shroud area, than this pendant ended with single sheeve block, and than there should be simple whip tackle with this block started and ended somewhere in the waist...?

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Edited by kirill4
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Some thoughts ... as I understoo with this hanging bulleye (fixed above fm upper deadeye) spritsail pendant passes clear/and above of anchor gear, but not below as You arranged presently... ?

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Looking at the pictures we could noted ,when anchor secured in stowed position, than anckor tackle  should be disangaged and single thick rope arranged instead of.

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Looks like I had it half right in post #315 regarding the routing of the sheet pendant, those pictures are great but do not show what is done with the cat-block?, I like the added detail of it and do not want to omit it, looking at the illustration in John Harlands book of the areas you highlighted, he shows the cat-block hooked to a strop on the shank which is an option I really like but mentions this as a Spanish method?.

 

In my preliminary mockup I rigged as displayed on the 1/10 model and looks pretty good, I guess another option would be to bring it inboard of the beakhead? What's your thoughts on this Kirill?

Regarding the spritsail pendant, it indeed is run through the bullseye but I have yet to rig the whip.

 

Michael D.

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Good day Michael,

As I understood from John Harlands book, and what exactly we could see on the contemporary dutch pictures - in stowed position, cat- block in this case - removed, and ring stopper rope used instead of it. During stowing process , cat- block hooked to the strope on the shank, and used for heaving up anchor more up than it could be done in regular way, when catblock hooked to the anchor ring...

but this process described in details in that highlighted section...as soon as anchor is in desired position, than ring-stopper rope used ... that what we clearly could see on the Velde's drawings posted above...

" spanish" method , as I could understood from the book - it is one more option to secure anchor in stowed position, there is again cat block removed, ring stopper rope used again passes trought sheaves in cathead but anchor ring used as set of lower sheaves... this method didn't show on the Velde's drawings... 

 

Spritsail sheet bulleye looks like need to be in position above upper deadeye of the first fore shroud, not lower as You shown presently - means sprit sail pendant need to be positioned clear of anchor gear...outside and above of anchor and its gear...that what we could see on the Velde's drawings and other artists of this time  as well ....

 

There is a third variant, I saw it on Sophia Amalia model... I don't know is it correct or not , but it looks quite logical...there is cat block is not dismantled but just disangaged from the anchor ring, and ring stopper rope used in the same time...

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Good day Michael,

*Coming back to anchors securing methods, I saw / found that variant which You demonstrated on your model in one of the last version.

I think it could be realized as well, why not?... as You shown, catblock is not removed but just moved aside and fastened to the railings ...

for me personal, when I was busy with my model anchors gear, I prefer to follow strictly John Harlands book,regarding using ring stopper rope in its " spanish "as he said, variant of second catting stage, I shown this arrangements of anhcor stowing on one side( cat block removed) and anchor's heaving up action on another side where fish davit could be seen  angaged as well.

 

I don't believe that option ( Vasa 1:10) to bring it ( anchor)inboard of the beakhead is good idea... a few times moving anchor in and out of beakhead we finaly just destroy it heavily... I think that why on old pictures this way of anchor stowing was never shown.

 

*pozition of leading block of spritsail pendant...I noted that on the 1:10 model shown variant when this bulleye fastened not to the one of fore shroud as used to be, but straight  to the fore channels, pendant passes trough ring bolt on the channel... this arrangements I never saw on the old dutch drawings , but I saw it in the Mondfeld book about Vasa.- he shown two possible positions of blind sheet pendant lead block.. I would prefer to use traditional way and to secure this spritsail lead pendant block on the  fore shrouds above upper deadeye...

 

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Edited by kirill4
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Hi Kirill,

I've included a few pics, one shows the cat-block positioned on top of the cathead, I know it's of Victory of 1737 but still a lot of similarities and the other is the port side of the Sophia Amalia showing the cat-block and spreaders for the sheet whip but like you said who knows if this is correct.

The other option I had mentioned was to simply swing the cat-block assembly over the beakhead and out of the way rather than the anchor.

 

Taking in account your recommendations, this is what I've come with, I did raise the bullseye a bit and looks to be a logical representation, I still need to tie off some loose ends though, thanks for the kind compliment, Shipman and as always Kirill your input along with others is invaluable and greatly appreciated!

 

Michael D.

 

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Somewhat redundant but the anchors are completed, and the fore course tacks are tied off at their kevels with the tacks themselves still needing to be rigged.. gotcha thinking now😄

 

Michael D.

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