USS Constitution by Hipexec - FINISHED - Constructo - 1:82

[robnbill]

I did the same. However for the forestays i used seized loops and mice.

[HIPEXEC]

You guys are all great! Happy Thanksgiving 

[HIPEXEC]

My first shroud is installed. I haven'y fully attached the chain plate yet. It's just held by tape.

[augie]

A hair hard to tell from the photo angle but just be certain your chainplates line up exactly with the shroud (if possible).

[Sjors]

Rich,

 

Two things....

For the chain ,let them try to follow the line of the shroud.

Second, I see that you cut off your lanyard just behind the deadeye.

Make the lanyard longer and when you are going true the last eye, turn it a few times around the shroud.

If you are now putting strength on the shroud, the lanyard will come out of the eye.

 

Sjors

[HIPEXEC]

The chainplates will line up with the shrouds when permanently installed and I shall put a few turns of the lanyard before I'm finished. You guys have good eyes.

 

What you didn't catch is the fact that I made theses deadeyes and shrouds off the ship. I'll show you my shroud factory in a later edition.

[robnbill]

Still you probably want to leave some extra line. I am assuming this would still be coming out of the forward lower deadeye hole. Then once you have them installed on the ship and the shroud attached, then tie half hitches (I used three) around the should and serve the end to the shroud. 

[src]

Rich,

looking forward to that factory picture.

sam

Edited November 29, 2014 by src

[Paul0367]

Looks beautiful, I like how the canons would protrude through the doors when closed. Saves the crew pulling the heavy canons back and forth I assume. Did your kit include the brackets for the doors and you make the doors to suit, this is far nicer than the victory kit, or is this your upgrade. I ask as the victory of the same manufacturer is cast iron and paint affair and no where near as nice as those on yours

Edited November 29, 2014 by Paul0367

[HIPEXEC]

Paul,

I made the gun port doors, but the hinges came with the kit. Thanks for looking.

[HIPEXEC]

Well...here's my shroud and deadeye factory.

 

I made five  jigs out out of paperclips and bent them to hold the upper and lower deadeyes, then wove the line in the appropriate pattern, then painted them with a thinned 50/50 mixture of PVA glue. Then I cut shrouds to the different lengths needed for th different masts and CA glued them with rough seizings by simply wrapping thin line. Not exactly the super neat seizings you all make, but they're okay. I made the brass clip out of brass straight pins by bending them on a steel rod the size of the inner deadeye circumference. They have a "tail" that I pushed into a pre-drilled hole and I will finish the underside with a fake chainplate made of brass that I bought via the internet from an outfit in Maine.

Edited November 30, 2014 by Hipexec

[GuntherMT]

Interesting idea Rich, looks like they came out pretty well.

 

How are you attaching these to the masts since you didn't make them in pairs with a single line?  Are you planning on serving the shrouds at the top?  How are you securing the lower dead eye if the chain plates are false, just gluing them into the channels?

[foxy]

Great idea Rich.

 

Will be going down the same lines me self, but with Dafis etched parts.

 

Thanks for showing.

 

 

Frank

Edited November 30, 2014 by foxy

[captainbob]

Nice looking assembly line.

 

Bob

[Karleop]

Hola Rich:

 

An interesting form to do the shrouds, but as GuntherMT says how will you secure them to the mast?  I find more practical to do the complete line (with the 2 sides) and then fixed to the deadeyes than are already fixed to the board.  The trick is to have sliding knots to adjust the final dimension of the shroud line.  You can see my post #108 for more clarity.  Anyway, as we say in Mexico: there are thousand forms to kill fleas.

 

Saludos, Karl

[HIPEXEC]

Here's my deadeye jigs.

[HIPEXEC]

The tail of that brass ring is 0.55mm so I drill a 0.50mm hole ane slip the tail into it with a dab of CA.  The shroud tops are attached individually to the mast with seizings. My masts are permanently glued.

[GuntherMT]

The tail of that brass ring is 0.55mm so I drill a 0.50mm hole ane slip the tail into it with a dab of CA.  The shroud tops are attached individually to the mast with seizings. My masts are permanently glued.

 

Rich, might want to make some tests with rigging rope - by doing it that way you'll have twice as many loops of shroud rope around the mast as you should, and my concern would be whether you can get it all to fit by doing it that way instead of in pairs on a single continuous line.

 

If it works like you expect, seems like you should have nice results as far as consistency goes, by using the jigs and doing all your adjustment at the top instead of the bottom.  Good luck!

[src]

Rich,

What are the purple handled plier in post 1325 above? They look like a flat jawed box joint plier. Do to they have a groove for wire or just a flat face?

Sam

[HIPEXEC]

Sam,

They're just flat faced and smooth. This way they made no marks on the brass like pliers would have.

[HIPEXEC]

This is how the deadeye is mounted. After the hole is drilled, I widen the entrance a bit with a pin. Then I place the "tail" into the hole and with slight force slip it down until it is flush. It's a good tight fit. Then I straighten it and touch it with CA after the shroud is roughly at the correct angle angle. After the CA sets, I will loop the shroud around the mast and fix it with a seizing and drop of CA.

[HIPEXEC]

I know many of you master modelers think I'm a Phillistine for this unorthodox approach, but for me, ship modeling is to create an illusion of this great fighting ship and not an exact replica as she was built. I do not have the skills to do that. 99.999% of the people viewing my model when it's done will never know of these tricks. I apologize for all you highly skilled ship builders, but I know my limitations and it will be many models and years before I ever even approach your superior skills. I really do appreciate your tips and suggestions though. Please keep them coming. I need your support.

Edited December 1, 2014 by Hipexec

[GuntherMT]

Rich, so far I'd say the results look just fine, and I certainly don't have a problem with your different approach at all (of course I'm also a newbie, not a 'master modeller' by any stretch) - I was concerned with doubling the number of loops around the mast, and look forward to seeing how it works out!

 

I imagine that you could use zip seizings at the masts to make securing the top of the shrouds much easier (if you aren't already doing that).

[GLakie]

I think what the other guys are concerned about is there being enough room up on the mast for all of the shrouds done separately. What they're saying is making them as 1 hoop, 2 lines, will cut down on congestion up at the mast top. But I'm sure you've already figured those factors into your later rigging plans. The deadeyes look good and I like the jig you made for them. Very cool.

 

Cheers 

[robnbill]

You build it how you like it Rich. I am enjoying watching it. You have brought a new method to all of us.

[Paul0367]

Ha ha Phillietine

[Paul0367]

Ha ha Phillistine

[captainbob]

The reason most modelers ask how you do something is because it looks good and it might be easier then the way they are doing it.

 

Bob

[src]

Rich,

If it works and you like it it looks, do as you will. If it doesn't then there are tried and proven ways to fall back on. We would be hunting with rocks if somebody hadn't said,"there has to be a better way"

Carry on.

Sam

[HIPEXEC]

This is the method I've been copying....from Wolfram zu Mondfeld's book "Historic Ship Models"

 

He shows clearly stacked shrouds pretty high.