Medway Longboat 1742 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Syren Ship Model Company - ½” scale

[Blue Ensign]

When I came back to the build I re-read Chuck's log and many others, to refresh my memory. I consider myself lucky that I have all these excellent builds, including yours Bob, to refer to.

I picked up the  tip of  using the thinner stuff from Chuck's log, but it's not mentioned in the download instructions.

I was concerned about using too much pressure on those open frames.

 

B.E.

 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 23

Completing the boarding.

 

The outer boards, one each side are a construction of two 1/32^nd strips, one atop the other leaving a rabbet on the outer side.

As with the wide boards I opted to glue the base layer first followed by the top layer.

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There was a degree of fettlin’ to get the planks tight against the broad planks, and an even rabbet along the outer side.

The nail positions were marked with the top planks in situ and removed for the drilling and ‘nail’ insertion.

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On completion a coat of w-o-p was applied.

 

Moving onto the platforms.

 

 

B.E.

05/06/2024

[Blue Ensign]

Post 24

Platforms.

After a break in Devonshire and taking advantage of recent fine warm weather to work in the garden, I return to the Longboat build.

Has it really been a month, better crack on.

 

Fore and aft platforms are now to be fitted. 

 

Aft Platform

Initial assembly is quite straightforward, it’s the notching to fit over the frames that is the tricky part.

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I followed the sensible approach of using card templates to mark the notches to fit over the frames before committing to the real thing.

Even so, fine tuning the notching proved to be a frustrating business.

 

Chuck indicates that the platform should be ‘pretty low’ on the model, but how low is low?

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I made a simple height jig from the plan to gauge where the forward edge of the platform sat above the floorboards, and notched away until I got close to the level.

 

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For me this involved cutting notches somewhat deeper than the  guide photos indicated.

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I hadn’t otherwise modified the boards at this point which seem to finish at the forward edge of frame seven from aft. Mine extended beyond frame 7 with a complete notch.

 

One final puzzlement I had with the platform was the nailing pattern.

There are five rows of nails running across the planks, but to secure to what? There are no corresponding supports below these points.

Chuck has indicated the use of three random beams across the underside to secure the boards and provide lateral support but they bear no relation to the nail runs except perhaps for the  fore-most one beneath the front edge.

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In terms of a fully planked version this has little relevance but for the open framed version what lies beneath is open to scrutiny, not a good look I think.

 

As the frames drop away from the boards with their ‘V’ shape, a more logical approach would seems to be to have support beams holding the planks together either in line with the frames or between them.

 

I think I need to change this.

 

 

B.E.

10/07/2024

 

 

 

[Thukydides]

11 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

One final puzzlement I had with the platform was the nailing pattern.

The nails appear to be just in front of or just behind the frames. The most logical answer to me seems that you add some cross beams secured to the side of the frames right below where the nail patterns would be. This makes intuitive sense as the platform has to be secured to something and that something really should be secured to the frames.

 

Great work as allways.

Edited July 10 by Thukydides

[BobG]

14 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Even so, fine tuning the notching proved to be a frustrating business.

Nice job getting those notches done, BE. That was a tricky step for me as well.

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Daniel, I obviously didn’t have my old brain in gear when I followed Chuck’s lead which is directed towards a fully planked hull, where such details don’t matter.

What I don’t know is how permanent these platforms were. Could they be removeable for access to the space below, merely slotting into place between the frames, even fitted in two halves?

Either way, I will replace the random supporting boards with specific support beams which match the nail runs and hopefully look aesthetically better from beneath.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 25

Platforms continued

 

Modification of the aft platform has been made.

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The forward end has been trimmed to create a half notch and  support beams added to fit adjacent to the aft sides of the boat framing.

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For these I use 3.3 x1.3mm strip that I just happened to have in stock.

Each beam was pva’d into place and the nail points marked.

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Using 10lb fishing line the ‘nails’ are inserted, secured with pva.

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Regardless of any authenticity aspects I think the underside now looks acceptable.

 

Still some finishing off to do but I’ll complete the bow platform first.

 

B.E.

 

12/07/2024

[Ronald-V]

Larger then I expected seeing your hand in comparison (can't read imperial system🫠) but nice job! Love these open construction little boats. 

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Ronald, at 390mm long by 132mm beam, she is quite a chunky model,  and takes up a fair bit of room if masted and rigged.

Just imagine how big the 1/2" scale model  ship that carried her would be.😮

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 26 

Bow Platform

To make this platform, as suggested by Chuck you really need to start with a card template.

The pattern of this platform is oversize so won’t conveniently fit between the forward frames to get a start with the notch for the bow stem.

 

I found it necessary to indulge in a little origami to achieve the result.

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The pattern is folded in half and the notches marked and cut out on one side and when flattened out should fit across the board.

The platform has to sit low down, a mere 16mm or so above the footwaling.

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I again used a height gauge to check the correct level of the platform.

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By these means I was able to get a reasonably close fit at the right level.

 

Not out of the woods yet, with an open framed model there is no defining outer planking to guide the internal fitting.

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I used Tamiya tape to give a guide for the missing planking, to aid the platform final shaping.

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This shows the variation necessary to the basic wooden platform. (My build only, other builds may vary)

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Supporting beams were added as with the aft platform.

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I have not applied w-o-p at this point or fixed the platforms in place. I’m not even sure if I need to, the platforms are a nice snug fit.

 

 

B.E.

13/07/2024

 

 

[CiscoH]

pretty genius methods of construction BE

thanks for posting your continuing tuitorial

[Diver]

7 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Post 26 

Bow Platform

To make this platform, as suggested by Chuck you really need to start with a card template.

The pattern of this platform is oversize so won’t conveniently fit between the forward frames to get a start with the notch for the bow stem.

 

I found it necessary to indulge in a little origami to achieve the result.

0109

The pattern is folded in half and the notches marked and cut out on one side and when flattened out should fit across the board.

The platform has to sit low down, a mere 16mm or so above the footwaling.

0098

I again used a height gauge to check the correct level of the platform.

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By these means I was able to get a reasonably close fit at the right level.

 

Not out of the woods yet, with an open framed model there is no defining outer planking to guide the internal fitting.

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I used Tamiya tape to give a guide for the missing planking, to aid the platform final shaping.

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This shows the variation necessary to the basic wooden platform. (My build only, other builds may vary)

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Supporting beams were added as with the aft platform.

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I have not applied w-o-p at this point or fixed the platforms in place. I’m not even sure if I need to, the platforms are a nice snug fit.

 

 

B.E.

13/07/2024

 

 

Looks very good.  I seem to remember I tried 4 or 5 times to get a front Platform that I was happy with

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Diver, I had more than a couple of card template goes to get the pattern that fitted.

You will see that I have deviated from the  kit pattern for the bow platform by notching it into the bow stem, which was a good fit for my particular version.

The contemporary model of the Longboat, seems to have a different set-up around the inner stem and framing, with two platform notches before the stem, but there is no really clear photo of this area.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 27 

Installing the Risers.

This is always a tricky area; getting the risers at the correct height and ensuring that the thwarts sit level and square across the boat.

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Careful measuring is required and as with my Queen Anne Barge build I used a simple depth gauge to mark the positions at each frame along the hull.

There is a degree of sheer to the risers and the position does vary slightly along the hull.

Before I commit to glue I do a lot of dry fitting.

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This extends to making up dummy thwarts to check the alignment.

 

At near midships the thwart sits 32mm above the footwaling.

This equates to 30” at full scale.

The thwart above the aft platform is 20mm equating to 19”

 In modern parlance this is about the difference between a desktop and a chair.

 

 The dummy thwarts  allow me to use my ½” scale rower to check relative heights.

The 1:24 scale figure at 70mm represents a figure of 5’6” height.

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Something looks a little awry here, there seems a very long drop to the footwaling.

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Except that is for the stern sheet section, where the fit is spot on.

The thwarts can’t be any lower because that would throw out the angle for the rowing action.

 

The conundrum is that the same figure used on the 1/2” scale Royal barge model fits well for a realistic rowing position.

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Note the stretchers sitting above the bottom boards.

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Royal Barge seating.

 

Unlike the Royal Barge, there are no stretchers fitted to brace the rower’s feet. I don’t recall seeing stretchers or cleats on the bottom boards of 18thc boats.

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Even so he does look somewhat incongruous sitting there.

 

 

Fortunately, I’m not thinking of crewing this model so the disparity will not be apparent.

 

On with the show.

 

 

B.E. 

16/07/2024

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 28

Risers fitted

Before gluing the risers I followed Chuck’s lead by applying the ‘nail’ heads using 10lb fishing line.

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I double checked the fixing marks before committing to glue and completed the Starboard side first.

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The port side rear riser was then clamped into place and the temporary thwarts used to confirm level and squareness.

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Moving onto the forward section riser on the port side.

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Multiple checks and re-checks are made to ensure that the thwarts are level.

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The temporary thwarts are used to confirm the levels at each point.

I use the Proxxon vice to support hull and get a true level, and tweak as necessary.

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Forward portside risers glued into place, always relieved when this part is over.

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Moving onto the thwarts proper.

 

B.E.

19/07/2024

[Blue Ensign]

Post 29

Mouldings and friezes

 

I was going to move onto fitting the thwarts but decided this was a better stage to fit the friezes and fancy moulding.

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The paintwork of the cap rails was firstly re-done and the outer edges cleaned up.

 

The decoration which follows the contemporary model of the Medway Longboat 1742, is probably an artistic embellishment.

It is unlikely that a heavy workhorse boat would in reality have such fancy work, although she may well have had a plain painted topside and stern panel.

 

Still, it makes for a nice enhancement on the model.

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Before cutting out the frieze patterns, they were sprayed with Artist’s fixative. This also brings out the colour a little.

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The friezes were applied using slightly diluted pva.

No issues in fitting, if only I could say the same for the Transom.

Chuck has provided several slightly differing transom patterns to hopefully give a little leeway to compensate for slightly differing stern shapes.

NMM Fully planked Medway Longboat

The idea is that an evenly sized border is created around the pattern, formed by the hull planking at the lower end.

NMM in frame Medway Longboat

On this contemporary model the margin is apparent at the lower end of the transom where one otherwise might expect the planking alone to form that border.

 

None of the provided kit patterns were a good fit for my stern so I converted the pdf to jpg and tweaked it by degrees on a word doc to create an acceptable fit.

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I followed the contemporary model by trimming the lower part to show a margin on the lower transom. I thought this was aesthetically more appealing.

 

Decorative strip.

The makings are provided in the form of Boxwood strip.

I scribed a simple moulding using the Artesania Latina micro shaper set.

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One of the profiles is similar to the style used by Chuck; a 3mm x 1mm profile which fitted the strip.

 

It requires 4 strips to complete the moulding run. I made the joins around 2/3^rd along the hull from the bow.

The forward section required edge bending to facilitate the round of the bow and a touch of lateral bending to take the spring out of the strip.

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The moulding is clamped to the hull and given the heat treatment to further assist the fit.

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I used spots of ca to attach the moulding to the hull. Care must be taken to avoid any spread particularly onto the frieze work.

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I can now clean up the outer planking and apply w-o-p.

I think w-o-p can also be applied over both the friezes and stern panel to further protect them.

 

B.E.

25/07/2024

[Ronald-V]

That moulding run looks really beautiful!

[Blue Ensign]

Post 30

Thwarts ‘n all.

The next stage is fitting the thwarts, pre-cut in cedar and formed of two layers to create a reveal on the thwart edges.

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Five of the thwarts require notching to fit over the frames and sit cleanly close to the run of the hull planking.

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At this point I have also started to add paint to the cockpit area.

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Fairly straightforward with careful measuring, but I did use ‘false’ thwarts  as templates.

I am satisfied that nothing untoward catches my eye in either level or squareness.

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Nothing is fixed at this point and the thwarts have yet to be  given the w-o-p treatment.

 

B.E.

29/07/2024

 

 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 31

Cockpit benches 

I found fitting the side benches of the cockpit somewhat tricky, and they took quite a bit of fettling.

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There is a lot of tweaking to get an acceptable fit.

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Several coats of paint were applied to the benches prior to fitting, but final coats will be applied once fitted.

 

I couldn’t quite manage to get the aft end as close to the hull planking as I would have liked, but you reach the point of how much is too much, with the risk of taking it that one step too far and scrapping the whole piece.

 

It is perhaps fortunate that this area is painted, as it allowed me to take a few liberties that otherwise wouldn’t have been an option.

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Side benches fitted and further coats of paint applied. The added support tabs for the central seat can be seen at the aft ends.

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The central panel has been fitted atop the stern post, and here the transom knees are tested for fit.

I found it necessary to add small sections of wood to the knee ends to give a tight fit against the central panel.

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The final piece is the centre seat, this required a little tweaking to get a nice tight fit between the side benches.

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Additional coats of paint added, rubbed down with 1000 grit paper. The final coat will be applied once the whole area is complete.

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Starting to look like a Longboat now I think, the thwarts will be removed for the next interesting little construction.

 

B.E.

01/08/2024

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 32

Windlass

One of the most striking features of a Longboat is the Windlass, used for anchor handling.

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These can be tricky to make from scratch but Chuck has thoughtfully provided templates to set out the octagonal barrel of the piece.

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Cedar wood is provided for the makings, and early stages went well.

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I found it difficult to get clean square holes for the windlass bars. Repeated fiddling made the situation worse, and it all ended up like a dogs breakfast. As a significant feature I had no option but to reject it.

 

Version two

This time I went for Boxwood, being a harder wood I was content that it would hold a sharper edge and cleaner cuts.

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I was fortunate to have some very old English Boxwood of 10mm square section.

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Planed up, this wood is a joy to work with.

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I used a No11 scalpel blade to cut the octagons, and a 3mm micro chisel to form the windlass bar mortises.

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To finish the windlass small spindles are created at the ends which are rounded.

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The windlass brackets are pre- formed and only require the addition of ‘nails’. They sit level with the underside of the adjacent thwarts and are fixed directly to the risers.

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I use a section of dowel to check the alignment before the glue set.

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Not given the w-o-p treatment at this point.

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Satisfied I can now move on.

 

B.E.

11/08/2024

[RossR]

Your windlass looks fantastic.  The mortises turned out great.  

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Ross, others have managed very well with the cedar, but Boxwood worked for me.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Thukydides]

9 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

One of the most striking features of a Longboat is the Windlass, used for anchor handling.

Fantastic work BE.

 

I do have a question on the windlass. Were these on all longboats or only the larger ones?

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Daniel,

Brian Lavery, Arming and fitting of English Ships of War  writes that Longboats were equipped with a windlass, as did the Launch that largely superseded it.

Whatever size of the ship the Longboat was the heavy work horse required to  carry the kedge and stream anchors, and lift the cables of  the main anchors.

It is difficult to say whether  the smallest Longboats (19' - 21' ) were fitted with a windlass, but the Medway Longboat according to  W.E. May, scaled to a 28' boat and clearly had a windlass.

Vanguard don't have a Longboat in their ships boats line- up, but in terms of modelling I would always include one, if for no other reason that they are an interesting fitting.

 

Always more questions than answers, Daniel.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

 

Edited August 12 by Blue Ensign

[Blue Ensign]

Post 33

Finishing the mast thwart

This particular thwart has supporting braces for the Mainmast.

The kit supplies brass strip, to be drilled, shaped, blackened, and glued and pinned into place.

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I use a mast jig to form the clamp shape which is held in position by the thwart straps.

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Once satisfied the parts are chemically blackened.

The straps are not glued into place, held simply by cut off brass pins smeared with ca.

 

There are also four belay pins made from some Boxwood strip.

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These are chucked in the Proxxon mini drill for shaping.

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Delicate hands required for this task, seven started, five completed, but a morning’s work and it’s done.

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The thwarts will not be glued into place until I have finished  with the construction work, and completed the w-o-p finish.

 

 

B.E.

13/08/2024

[glbarlow]

I’m enjoying your rake on this great model.  It’s up next for me after Winchelsea.  Boxwood for the windlass is an excellent choice. 

[CiscoH]

apologies if i missed it.  what process do you use for blackening?

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Glenn,  I understand why Chuck included Cedar for the Windlass, a 10mm square section of Boxwood would be far more expensive.

It is a preferable wood tho' if you can get it, and I quite like the colour shade difference for this fitting.

 

@ Cisco -   I use stuff called Carr's Metal Black for Brass, diluted with distilled water 50%.

                   The brass is  cleaned using fine steel wool, and a mild acid solution, before immersion for  a minute or so.

                   I then buff it using a cotton bud.

                   It took well the first time, but I gave it a second immersion  to deepen the tone.

                   I think the main thing is making sure the brass is perfectly clean before starting the process.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

 

Edited August 14 by Blue Ensign

[glbarlow]

19 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

It is a preferable wood tho'

Most of the Winchelsea parts that must hold an edge like pillars, moulding, etc. are provided in boxwood. I love AYC, but as you note the boxwood is both critical where an edge is needed and provides a nice accent. 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 34

The Rudder

A Cedar blank is supplied but requires some tapering fore to aft and shaping to get it to the finished article.

 

The precise degree of taper is not covered in the guide, but the rudder piece is 4mm thick overall, and I am initially working to a 2mm thickness at the aft edge.

 Chuck’s rudder dimensions are a close fit to Steel, who for a 30’ Longboat circa 1800 gives the following.

 

Breadth at heel.    1’10”  - at scale =23.3mm

Breadth at Hance. 1’3½” - at scale =16.4mm

Breadth at head.     8½”-  at scale =9.0mm

 

The thickness of the rudder is given as 1½” but doesn’t say at what point, I have taken it to be the aft edge.

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To this end I temporarily fix a 2mm Pear strip to guide the taper.

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Gudgeons and Pintles.

I have always been a fan of Chuck’s rudder fixings, and this is no exception.

A neat if delicate little Boxwood set is provided.

 

The standard setting for rudder set up on boats is a long lower pintle on the sternpost, with a long-braced gudgeon on the rudder.

The upper set are reversed with a gudgeon fixed to the transom, and a short pintle to the rudder.

 

This set-up facilitates easier removal and replacement of the rudder at sea, where it may need to be removed during anchor handling operations.

 

Before I attached the fittings, I dry fitted them to make sure that the pintles would easily and properly engage.

 

The trickiest part is fixing the Transom Gudgeon in position which is glued over the decorative pattern. As little movement as possible is desirable to avoid marring the decoration.

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My approach was to fix the lower pintle first on the sternpost, followed by the rudder fixing.

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The Gudgeon for the transom was then placed in position on the upper rudder pintle, held in place by tape.

A smear of Ca was applied to the inner face of the Gudgeon, and having set the lower rudder gudgeon on the pintle the rudder was pressed into place keeping it vertical.

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With ca the set is quick, and the rudder can be removed leaving the transom Gudgeon in place.

 

Tiller

This is cut from a 2.5mm square Boxwood section.

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I couldn’t be bothered to get the large woodturning lathe out;  this Heath Robinson set-up worked perfectly well for the size of the turning.

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The tiller has a circular tenon shaped on the inner end.

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A Mortise is cut in the rudder to take the Tiller.

This is of a 2mm ø

 

Rudder finish

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The straps are thinned down on rudder and hull and fine brass pins used to represent the bolts.

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The final part is to add the small decorations to the rudder head.

I found these tricky little beggars to get a clean oval shape, and had several goes at it.

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I found that small, curved nail scissors worked best for me.

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Moving on….

 

B.E.

17/08/2024