Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper

[bhermann]

Ed

 

The Canon I use has the ability to set a time delay of 2 or 10 seconds between pushing the shutter release and actually opening the shutter.  That allows a few seconds for any shaking to die down before the exposure begins.  It also allows you to set up a shot, then move into the photo yourself, if you want to do that.  The remote shutter release provides the same elimination of camera shake - by keeping your hands away from the camera while releasing the shutter.

 

Mirror lock-up is a different matter.  When the shutter is released, normally the mirror that directs the input to the viewfinder moves out of the way immediately before the shutter is opened.  This allows the image to be directed to the sensor instead of the viewfinder.  Sometime that mirror "bounce" can introduce a bit of shaking as well that could be noticed in long exposures.  Mirror lockup allows you to compose the shot through the viewfinder, then swing the mirror out of the way and delay the opening of the shutter for some time afterward to allow that shaking to dissipate.  I certainly don't see any sign of shaking in your photos, so just keep doing what you are doing!

 

Bob

[EdT]

Thanks for the input, Bob.  I actually do what you describe in your first paragraph - using the 10 second setting - and I do use the interval to get set up if my hands, for example, will be in the picture, which is the case in many photos.  The shutter release on the remote - the part of it attached to the camera - has a more sensitive button that works exactly like the release button on the camera - partial depress to focus, etc. so I use that button rather than the remote itself.

 

I did not know that the mirror could be locked out of the way after composing the shot until you mentioned it, though I am familiar with the SLR mechanics.  As you say, so far I have not seemed to need that feature and it would add another step.  I could see where the mirror flipping could induce some bounce if the setup is not very rigid - and some of mine are not, so I will keep an eye out for that problem.

 

I am normally shooting at around f16 with an ISO setting of 400 and that seems to work out well.

 

Thanks,

 

Ed

[Jeronimo]

Hi Ed.

Fantastic work.

Karl     

[cpt. Tom]

Hi Ed,

 

you're doing a fantastic work on your ship, I think it is absolutely amazing.....great....!!

[the learner]

The little camera I use is just not going to cut the mustard

[the learner]

Ed the beams appear to be sitting just proud of the knees, is that how they are suspose to fit?

[EdT]

Hi Guy,

 

I assume you are referring to the tops of the beams being slightly higher than the tops of the lodging knees.  If so, step back to the previous page.  Mark had the same question.  Short answer - yes.

 

Ed

[alangr4]

 

Ed

 

A question if I may about your framing.

 

When you built Naiad you designed and used a very nifty framing jig which you don't appear to have used, adopted/adapted for your YA build.

 

Instead you appear to use pins.

 

Was there any particular reason why you didn't go the jig route? 

 

The frames looks superb by the way on both vessels.

 

Many thanks

 

 

Alan

[EdT]

Alan, thanks again for your comments.

 

The pin-indexing method is a major improvement over the assembly jig  for the following reasons:

 

          the alignment of the individual parts of the frame is very accurate

 

          assembly is much faster

 

          final frame is very accurate in shape

 

          assembled frame has patterns left on both sides allowing almost complete beveling before erection

 

          no clamps are needed

 

          cross-spales - if needed - can be attached and center-marked while the frame is still accurately pinned to the pattern

 

          final alignment/fairness of frames on the assembled hull was more accurate - almost no fairing required.

 

          with only one assembly clamping jig, it becomes a bottleneck - its easy to cut multiple pin boards

 

 

However, there are some additional requirements:

 

          a pattern is required for both faces of the frame (also with the jig method)

 

          matched indexing holes are required on the patterns

 

          pin holes must be drilled perpendicular and on the marks

 

If the pinholes are placed on the pattern using CAD - in other words precisely aligned - then the only source of error in the process is the placement/verticality of the drilled holes in the parts.   A drill press and some care eliminate most of this.

 

Preparation for this approach begins with the frame lofting.  It is an integral part of the entire process.  Pin holes have to be placed on each pattern of the assembled frame half with the frame patterns aligned.  I believe this could be done manually on printed frame patterns of assembled frames but may not be as accurate.  I have not tried this.  It could not be done if there are only patterns of the parts.  If there were spacers between the frame partners and/or if the sidings were reduced before assembly I believe this would still work, but have not tried it.

 

I believe if you check back through the earlier posts you will find some more explanation of this.

 

Ed

Edited June 7, 2014 by EdT

[alangr4]

 

Thanks Ed very much for the comprehensive response.

 

I had a feeling you may have answered my question earlier. My apologies for not finding it.

 

You have built up quite a collection of pages with your three builds.

 

Regards

 

 

Alan

[EdT]

Please don't apologize, Alan there is a lot of stuff to look at on this site.  I am happy to get the question, especially on this - one of my pet subjects.

 

Ed

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 68 – Lower deck framing continued

 

In the first picture the beams around the opening for the main mast have been installed.

 

 

The forward beams and half-beams around this opening have double pillars – one on each side - set on the base timbers on the hold planking.

 

Making and setting these pillars, with their four knees each, is a large portion of the work involved with these beams.  The next picture shows a monofilament bolt being installed in an upper knee that has already been glued into an assembly.

 

 

The next picture shows the three parts of a pillar assembly ready for installation.

 

 

The lower knees will be installed after the top assembly is set in place and glued.  In the next picture the final beam – a half beam – is ready to be installed.

 

Unlike the other pillars, this one has been pre-installed since there will be insufficient space to do it later.  The hanging knee has also been pre-attached to the half beam for this reason.  The pillar is pinned to the base with a piece of wire.

 

The next picture shows the final beams installed.

 

 

Copper wire bolts have been installed through the tops of the beams to help secure the them, their hanging knees and each of the pillars   these are glued with epoxy that has not yet been sanded off the tops of the beams.

 

The next picture is another view of this area.

 

 

All of the work below the beams has been finished with beeswax solution before installing the ledges.  Missing lodging knees, carlings, ledges and a lot of monofilament bolts still need to be installed to complete the lower deck framing. 

 

The last picture shows most of the lower deck at this stage.

 

 

 Ed

[dgbot]

You have the patience of a saint.

David B

[alangr4]

 

Brilliant Ed. Absolutely brilliant!!!!

 

Alan

[Mahuna]

Ed

 

The precision continues to amaze me.  I start my day by looking for your latest post, and it seems like I learn something new with each one.  Thanks for sharing your work with us.

 

Frank

[druxey]

Lovely, lovely. But Ed - with all your sophisticated tools, jigs and fixtures, you are still using a razor blade??? Try a #11 surgical blade in a surgical handle.

[EdT]

Thank you all.  David, you highly overrate my patience.  Druxey, I am no snob when it comes to tools.  I cherish my lowly razor blades - 100 for a dollar.  Besides, after shaving (sorry for that)  off a dozen monofilament bolts, the edge is completely gummed up with CA glue from one end to the other - so, at the going price,  I can either toss it and peel open a new one, or drop it into a jar of acetone for a bath and pull out a clean one  - all without dismantling a surgical blade holder - always a dangerous proposition for me.

 

Ed

[dgbot]

Good way to do it.

David B

[alangr4]

 

Ed  I am absolutely with you on the preference of razor blades over surgical blades. I have the no11 that Druxey refers to and have on several occasions done some not so neat surgery to my fingers, thumbs, hands and foot trying to fit said no11 to surgical handle.

 

One may ask how does the foot fit into this story. Dropping the said no 11 after doing surgery on my hand and having it land point down in my foot! 

 

Stay with the blades Ed.

 

If nothing else, the cut on the skin is straight - much easier to sew up!

 

Alan

[gjdale]

Stunning Ed - just gorgeous!

 

Alan - ouch!

[allanyed]

Ed,

 

Cudos.

 

Ahh, the lowly single edge stiff back razor.  A fresh one for scraping deck planks, snipping ends as you show, and then grind a profile in the dulled ones to use as a molding scraper.  A rather useful, yet inexpensive little tool for sure.

 

Allan

[EdT]

Druxey, it looks like you stirred up a hornet's nest of razor blade afficionados.

[druxey]

OK, OK! In my defence: I use a pair of pliers for changing blades and have never performed inadvertent surgery upon myself. I'm sorry that I ever brought the subject up, Ed! Enjoy your razor blades, ladies and gentlemen.

[alangr4]

 

Hadn't thought of pliers Druxey. I'll give that a crack tomorrow.

 

Thanks for the tip

 

Alan

[EdT]

Druxey, also in your defence, I too use pliers to change blades and do not really feel threatened by it.

[amateur]

Hi Ed,

 

I can sit still and watch these pics for hours.

It makes me wonder where all the trees grew in the time of those sailing ships....

 

I see some blue tape in the rear end of the ship. Why didn't you attach those timbers along the full length of the hull before

starting your deck-framing?

 

Jan

[EdT]

Jan, thank you for your interest and for your question.  The blue masking tape is to protect the ends of the iron strapping strips until they get covered with planking or other members.  The deck clamps above the middle deck have not yet been extended to the stern because I have not yet decided how to handle the main deck clamp in that area.  The main deck ends at frame 36 where the poop deck begins.  Below the poop is a cabin deck set below the main deck by a few feet, so no deck clamp is required for the main deck aft of 36.  I will probably install it any way for structural integrity but have not yet added that arrangement to the drawings.  I should probably add the aft deck clamps soon.  The unsupported stern timbers are vulnerable to damage at this stage.

 

Ed

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 69 – Final lower deck framing/

Waterways

 

In the first picture the last ledge of the lower deck framing is being marked for cutting.

 

 

Once all of the beams and carlings were set, the remaining ledges went quickly – a morning’s work.  These are 9” wide and 7” deep – hard pine on the original like the rest of the deck framing – except for the hanging knees – white or live oak.

 

The next picture shows the completed framing – looking aft.

 

 

Sometimes it is hard to decide from which direction these pictures were taken.  The fore and aft ends of this deck are very similar.  The next picture shows the area around the main hatch and main mast.

 

 

At this stage the deck members – beams, carlings, ledges – have been sanded flat and finish sanded.  All traces of the bolt glue are gone.  Below is a picture taken above the foremast area.

 

 

No time to celebrate - on to the waterways.  These monsters are 15” square – hard pine on the original – as long a log as possible.  The first picture shows the foremost section on the starboard side.

 

 

The outboard face has to be beveled back to fit tight against the frames and flat on the deck beams.  There is a slight gap between the waterway and the tops of the lodging kneses.  This was discussed earlier.  The next picture shows a closer view..

 

 

In this picture the section has been glued in and clamped.  As many copper wire bolts as the interference with the clamps would allow were then inserted and epoxy-glued from both ends.  When the clamps are removed the remaining bolts will be installed down into the beams and through the frames.  The hook scarph connecting this piece to the next section was fit before installing the forward piece.  I wish I had made this piece longer to get the joint into a straighter area.  It was hard to close on the curve.  The next picture shows a wire beam bolt being inserted in the next section.

 

 

The pin coming through in the lower left corner is a marker for the hole drilled from the outside so I can find it to fill it with a bolt.  The outsides of the frames are becoming “bolt-dense.”  The air gaps above the lodging knees between the beams and ledges show clearly in this picture.

 

The last picture shows the second section of waterway after filing off the bolt heads and epoxy.

 

 

The waterway has been sanded smooth.  A 12” wide by 10” deep “standing strake” will be installed along the top of the waterway.  A thick “binding strake” – the outer strake of planking will butt against the side of the waterway and bolted horizontally through it as well as into the deck beams. I believe a “margin plank” was installed inboard of the binding strake, but I am still researching this.

 

 

 Ed

[Jeronimo]

Hello Ed,

wounderful work.

I can only to express my admiration and appreciation.

Reagards Karl

 

 

( Google Translator )

 

 

[Erebus and Terror]

Ed, beautiful as always. I'm amazed by the architecture of this ship - and I thought bomb vessels were sturdy!