Byrnes Table Saw Configeration

[Guyuti]

Hi,

 

I am looking to buy a 18 inch Byrnes Table Saw. I have not used one for many years and have never owned one, however I would like your advise as to what parts I should buy with the basic saw to make it perfect for scratch building. i am looking to eventually build a first rate in 1/48 scale and will be ripping my own planks for decking and hull. As I live in the UK getting all the parts in one go makes sense due to custom and postage costs. Can anyone please tell me what Should i buy :-

Sliding Table

Auxiliary Tilting Table

Extended Rip Fence

Miter gage Adjustable Extension ]

Rip Taper Gage

Micrometer Stop - inch

Micrometer Stop - Metric

Miter Bar

Zero-Clearance Insert 4in. Carbide Blade 24-tooth - .055 kerf     4in. Carbide Blade 36-tooth - .055 kerf     4in. Martindale 110T-.04 kerf Slitting Blade (recommended for use with the Tilt Table)     3 in. Martindale 90T-.04 kerf Slitting Blade     3in. Martindale 90T-.03 kerf Slitting Blade [pic]     3in. Martindale 90T-.02 kerf Slitting Blade     3 in. Martindale 90T-.023 kerf Slitting Blade     3in. Martindale 90T-.028 Slitting Blade Replacement Miter Gage for Saw     Replacement Belt     Accessory pack (Extra miter pin and all the removable screws)   Thanks in advance   Guy

Edited July 5, 2023 by Guyuti

[Roger Pellett]

I would buy the auxiliary pack and extra belt although I have used my Saw for many years without having to replace the belt.  The screws that hold down the insert plates are tiny and easy to lose.  I have the micrometer stop and always never use it.  I like the 3in 90 tooth blade for cutting wood.  I also have a very fine, sorry, I don’t know the tooth count, blade for cutting brass sheet and tubing.  I have a 10in table saw so don’t use the Byrnes saw for cutting heavy wood stock.  Zero clearance inserts are easily made from thin craft plywood.

 

Before you use the saw-  Paint the miter pin a bright color!  Mine is painted Day-Glow orange.  I have dropped it many times and would have lost it if it was not painted.

 

Roger

Edited July 5, 2023 by Roger Pellett

[glbarlow]

The mitre bar, extended fence are essential, the cross cut table is of great benefit and a must. Zero clearance inserts are handy, but I seldom use it. The 3 inch, 90T, .03 slitting blade is all I ever use. I’d get a couple of those. I have the micro meter stop and never ever use it.  I’ve had my saw since 2008 and never replaced the belt. The other might be useful, but not for me. 

[CPDDET]

Well, this may not help.

I use the zero clearance plate all the time and use the micro meter stop often enough. It took a bit of getting used to but is nice. I also have the extended fence. 90 tooth / .03 slitting blade is about all I use. 

[javajohn]

I used the sliding table with a jig for making gratings the first time and it really helped to prevent wandering or yawing of the piece as I cut grooves. It was easier and much faster than using the micrometer stop which resulted in a less than stellar attempt. I talk about my grating journey in my Rattlesnake build.

 

@Roger Pellett - good advice on painting the miter pin!

 

I agree with others the extended fence and miter bar are essential. I have not had an opportunity to use the rip taper gauge and didn't purchase the tilting table. That 90T 0.03 blade is definitely the workhorse.

 

 

[kurtvd19]

15 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

Before you use the saw-  Paint the miter pin a bright color!  Mine is painted Day-Glow orange.  I have dropped it many times and would have lost it if it was not painted.

Good idea Roger.  I got tied of searching for the pin and after I had to make a replacement pin I drilled through the center as shown by the RED arrow and tethered it to the miter gauge with some flexible, multi strand (7) stainless steel jewelers wire - so I couldn't drop it!.  There is a small loop that the screw used to lock the gauge adjustment secures to the gauge - GREEN arrow -  with the other end looped through the pin.  Jewelers crimps secure the ends of the wire to the wire - they will not come undone.

Before I get a bunch of cautions regarding the wire and the saw blade I considered this carefully and experience has shown that the wire is just stiff enough that it will not flop over to the right due to the pinching of the wire by the gauges locking screw - with the knurled knob.  I have used this set up for over 10 years w/o a problem.  If I ever have a need to undo the wire from where it is held under the screw I will probably shorten the wire a bit.  I made it long so I would not have a problem with it being in the way when using the miter gauge but it has proven to be absolutely no problem - and if anybody checks with me in another 10 years I will probably never have actually followed through with shortening the wire.

I have never regretted using the wire and from past experience I know I have saved a lot of time.

I have never had a need to use the miter gauge to the right of the blade and the extended miter bar will not allow me to do so without it's removal and I am sure I would reverse the wire's positioning to go to the opposite side of the blade.  That is when I will shorten the wire for sure!

Kurt

Edited July 5, 2023 by kurtvd19
Added use of the miter gauge to the right of the blade.

[Bob Cleek]

At the risk of thread drift, I'll mention that I've found the cheap and readily available magnetic dishes used by auto mechanics to hold small parts are really very handy around the shop. I've got four of them here and there and I try to keep in the habit of using them to hold nuts, bolts, screws, and the like whenever I'm working on taking things apart and the like. They've saved me tons of time that otherwise would have been spent on my hands and knees searching for parts that went walkabout of their own accord. I can't bring myself to criticize a single thing about my Byrnes tools, but I'll "mention in passing" that using them often entails the removal of small grub screws and tiny flathead bolts which make having the factory "replacement parts set" on hand reassuring. 

 

Three bucks from Harbor Freight: 4" Magnetic Parts Tray (harborfreight.com)

 

 

[kurtvd19]

I use them in the shop too Bob.

[Roger Pellett]

Thanks Bob,

 

I had no idea that these things existed.   With nerapathy in both hands and consequent loss of grip strength I am constantly dropping nuts, bolts, and washers

 

Roger

[Andy Whincup]

Hi Guy, just read this feed, did you get the byrnes tablesaw yet. I’ve been waiting to order but they were temporarily 

closed to mid August, then it changed to mid September, did you get any information regarding which parts were best to order. 

 

Cheers bud

 

Andy

Edited September 25, 2023 by Andy Whincup

[Guyuti]

Not bought one yet but once my workshop is completed, not easy saving on disability

will let you know when i do

[No Idea]

On 7/5/2023 at 3:22 AM, Guyuti said:

Hi,

 

I am looking to buy a 18 inch Byrnes Table Saw. I have not used one for many years and have never owned one, however I would like your advise as to what parts I should buy with the basic saw to make it perfect for scratch building. i am looking to eventually build a first rate in 1/48 scale and will be ripping my own planks for decking and hull. As I live in the UK getting all the parts in one go makes sense due to custom and postage costs. Can anyone please tell me what Should i buy :-

Sliding Table

Auxiliary Tilting Table

Extended Rip Fence

Miter gage Adjustable Extension ]

Rip Taper Gage

Micrometer Stop - inch

Micrometer Stop - Metric

Miter Bar

Zero-Clearance Insert 4in. Carbide Blade 24-tooth - .055 kerf     4in. Carbide Blade 36-tooth - .055 kerf     4in. Martindale 110T-.04 kerf Slitting Blade (recommended for use with the Tilt Table)     3 in. Martindale 90T-.04 kerf Slitting Blade     3in. Martindale 90T-.03 kerf Slitting Blade [pic]     3in. Martindale 90T-.02 kerf Slitting Blade     3 in. Martindale 90T-.023 kerf Slitting Blade     3in. Martindale 90T-.028 Slitting Blade Replacement Miter Gage for Saw     Replacement Belt     Accessory pack (Extra miter pin and all the removable screws)   Thanks in advance   Guy

Hi Guy - I have pretty much ordered all of the above for my saw and I use everything that I ordered too.  Over the past few years I have found that a UK builder should order as much as possible as the shipping costs here are very expensive.

 

So here is what I have learnt as a UK builder - I don't use carbide blades for anything other that cutting down big pieces of wood.  The edge finish is rough and not suitable for modelling.  Also if the piece of wood moves even slightly sideways as you are feeding it through, the blade will cut sideways and leave you with a piece of wood that varies a lot in thickness through its length.

 

Buy at least two accessory packs as you will loose screws and its a bargain for us.  All of the threads are UNC which we do not use here.

 

We are metric here so go for the metric stop.

 

Get as least 5 - 6 zero clearance inserts - They are as cheap as chips and you will need one for each thickness of blade.  You will accidentally fit the odd bade incorrectly as it will trash the insert.  Get some spares.

 

Buy a couple of belts as they do wear out over time and you need to think of the cost of shipping one here.

 

Buy as many blades as you can!  I use three types of blade now.  The 4" blade for cutting planks as it had much less deflection and the 3" blades for finer work.  I go through a lot less of the 3" blades.

 

Regardless of how often you use these parts I have not regretted buying anything and I can honestly say that Jim and Donna Byrnes properly support their product.  There's nothing better that I know of in our hobby and I'm very glad that I have mine 

 

Mark 

[Roger Pellett]

Guy, if you have bought your Byrnes saw or (or any other mini saw with a 1/2 in miter gage slot), by all means buy the NRG’s thin rip fixture.  I just finished cutting 70+ hatch boards with my saw using this little fixture.  These boards are only 1/32” thick (1/2 mm?).  It made the job quick and easy.  Buy directly from the, NRG office.

 

Roger

 

 

[GGibson]

Reading all of this with great interest, as I've sent Jim & Donna a message on their website for when they return from their break.  Appreciate all of the recommendations given above... 👍