HMS Victory by JPett - Corel - 1:98

[Bill Hime]

Hey JPett,

The finish on your filler block is beautiful! lol, almost too nice to cover up . Nice to see you posting again and more importantly, building!

 

Warm Regards, 

 

Bill

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Dragzz: your a better man then I. Not knowing what I am doing; I did not have the courage to bring out those guns. 

 

GuntherMT: Welcome to my build. This would not be the first time I did something backwards on my build. 

 

Bill Hime: Ditto on my last reply and thx for stopping by. I am primarily using 320 and 400 sandpaper, I have some 150 but use it sparingly. I don't trust myself with anything stronger. Slow would be an understatement. 

 

Back to the build: 

 

Well in typical JPett fashion we are totally over thinking these fillers ' I think"

 

 After spending over 2 hours with my little battens and sandpaper I have made yet another change. It seems to me that the "tuck' of this filler should allow for the planking to lie flat up to the point where the thickness of the two layers of planking matches the space between the filler and the stern. Only here it should curve in to meet the keel. Should it do so where the gap exceeds the space taken by the planking there would be a space on the finished hull.. Like I said, it is entirely possible that there is way to much thinking going on here and the reason for this post 

 

Please let me know what you think

 

Note for those following: I sanded the filler to match the stern on the top where the planking curves into the stern and enough so that the two layers planking will fit without having to sand one layer down to nothing.  See the pic in my previous post. This required me to take quite a bit off the filler. I believe that this could have been prevented by having bulkhead 14 positioned slightly more forward as i see this could have been done on my build. There is some space and I would recommend using the stern fillers to position this bulkhead

 

In the pic I have highlighted the "tuck" You can see that on one side where it used to be bring the planks into the stern well before the two marks. The marks show where the thickness of the planking matches the space between the ends of the keel and the filler. On the other side i have raised the position where the planks will still lie flat up to just before this point. 

 

The second image shows my batten and the new path of the planks 

 

The third my "Vic SticK" which is a jig I made using the two layers of planking for the kit. i seem to have developed an obsession with these little jigs. They all have names "lol"  

 

Please feel free to comment, Suggestions are always welcome here and I have no problem with criticism provided it is accompanied with a suggestions. I can always glue some wood back on and consider my time spent learning. 

Edited September 28, 2014 by JPett

[dragzz]

hello jpett good to see the post on that on the right side the filler look much better the plank sits much better then the left side to me keep up the great work

[mog]

Nothing wrong with over thinking, how many times do we find ourselfs  just setting in front of the build ,your mind going in all directions, visualizing all the different ways a piece is going fit, finding the best way,  only to look at it  from a different direction and find a better way, guess this is why we love this hobby.  You know I have all the high speed tools for quick sanding, but like you I spend hours hand sanding and filing, something about getting the feel for the part your working on.

After 6 months away I have had to rethink my entire build sequence, hoping to find some flow in the building, anyway will be following both your builds

MOG 

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Mog: I find myself doing just that "way too much" 

 

Dragzz: I thought so too "until today' 

 

 

Back to the build 

 

DANGER WILL ROBERTSON 

 

Well it seems that I may have made a blunder here on my build. I have been postulating these rear fillers for many hours. Something was just not right. Well today I think I may have found that thing that's 'not right" 

 

The keel on Corel's Vic is 5mm wide. This is the same thickness as the material for the rudder. Hummmm

 

So if I add the planking thickness to this equation it means I must sand it to zero to meet the rudder. Even so where is the Keel post: there is no kit supplied part. Or does the planking terminates before the keel post and the keel is the post. It is my belief that the rear fillers on this "KIT" should have been shaped similar to the bow fillers where as "all the planks turn into the hull" and terminate as they come back to the keel the same as they do in the bow. Fake planks are then scribed into the keel along with the keel post. It all makes sense. Although one could argue that that is not correct practice in real shipbuilding as the planks on the lower half should lie against the hull up to a point and then turn into the keel this is a kit and kits are always full of compromises. I do believe this being one Corel choose here. Trust me i have looked at this from all angles including the one through my drink. It has been a very upsetting day in the shipyard.   

 

What to do: 

 

After much thought I have decided to have the kit try and stop my Tundra tires from rolling forward. After failing that I will repeat the test in reverse.

 

"lol" Just kidding but it did cross my mind and make me laugh. 

 

I think i can fix this by planking the hull as it would be on a real ship or most other kits (NOT WHAT COREL INTENDED) and then heavily fairing the planking into the stern post/keel end.  Next  remove/cut away any planking that covers the space that would be occupied by the stern post; insuring any planking here has been been sanded down to 1 mm. This would be followed by a complete "redo" of the keel post and entire exposed keel stem to stern with a 1mm walnut veneer. I might have to taper the end of the keel a bit where I remove the planking before applying the veneer so it meets the Rudder at the correct thickness. Or I could do the Rudder in slightly thicker wood. I could also do something nice here with the bow by using multiple pieces. .  

 

 

 If you have a better solution I would love to hear it. 

 

Either way unless I hear a better plan I will start planking the lower half of the hull to confirm my plan.

 

My fall back will be copper and paint 

 

There is always a way 

 

If I were to start this kit anew I might cut a rabbet where the stern post is or really just do it Corel's way which would not look bad

 

Lets see how my idea works. 

 

EDIT: My original thinking was wrong regarding that all the planking  should terminate at the filler: Please disregard it. I am terminating the first layer here. Read on  

Edited October 11, 2014 by JPett

[dragzz]

copper plate is what iwas think of doing . i did not like the rear fillers as it to late for me to fix that now good luck to u on your fix

[augie]

Wishing you good luck here, JP.  I think the rabbet into the keel post would have been the way to go but I'm sure you can hammer this out.

[Beef Wellington]

JPett - I think this is one of the more challenging areas of these builds, I probably going through similar pains with my 'Jason' stern.  I've been thinking through the same problem long and hard.  My suggestion would be to bite the bullet and try to cut a rabbet basing it on where the sternpost would be.  It might be a bit trickier doing it now, but it is possible (I had to make some adjustments myself with bulkheads already on), and I suspect would make life easier in the long run.

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Dragzz: As my fix here involves sanding down the first layer it might help you too 

 

Augie: Do I hear you making another challenge.

 

Beef: I looked long and hard at that. I do not think my skill set is up to it. There is no room for error and I am Mr. Error 

 

Back to the build

 

I posted in the planking section and NMBrook has responded with what maybe the best way. 

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8365-question-planking-corels-hms-vic/?p=247800

 

I am going to cut out the part of the keel that represents the Stern post. Then taper the cutout similar to what you would do when you cut a rabbet but just not stopping,  having it taper all the way to the edge. Then plank the first layer "short" sanding it flush to the keel as far back as i can: How short I am not sure yet. 

 

I will do the second layer of planking terminating it at the cut out. Then add a piece of wood to represent the keel post sanding the planking down to match this wood. 

 

I could use a piece of 7mm  walnut which would give me 1mm step on each side where it will meet the original keel on the bottom. I would taper it to meet the 5mm  Rudder. Realize the keel post sits on top of the "keel" wood that runs the full of the hull (I am sure this has a name) Then I could use a thin laminate and cover all the kit supplied plywood used for the keel as Ferit suggested earlier to match the 7mm  thickness of the stern post. This of course means I will need to redo my jig as the kit will no longer fit.   

 

This would also disqualify my OOB goal. There was a purpose here and I think that I have proven that I do not have enough discipline when it comes to "the extras". On this build it could easily get way "way" out of hand and my reason for doing this kit strictly OOB. Stay tuned, I have to think about all of this 

 

The big problem for me is this is causing me to want to rush into the planking to resolve this and doing the gunports second would be harder. We all know how that is a specialty of mine 

Edited October 10, 2014 by JPett

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Just an update and some pics to show what i am thinking, seeing, and doing

 

First I have found Evergreen Strip styrene to be very useful for tuning my hull. This strip is their .040 x.250 which bends much like a wet plank. Not much side to side and plenty to form around the bulkheads to check for discrepancies. Most hobby store carry it

 

I have also found these push pins. The are of a slightly higher quality then normal and can be hammered in with my hobby hammer after a starter hole is drilled. They can be removed and reinserted and hold planks firmly. Much better then the suggested nails that many kits include for planking. I need to find more. In the pic you can see I have a bulkhead that is low. So far it is the only one.

 

You may or may not be able to see that my highlighting of the bulkhead corners worked really well. It was done with the side of a 4B pencil. I do not think I over sanded any bulkheads. I may or may not have over sanded the stern fillers just a bit.  I did completely remove my pencil marks on the last bulkhead when doing the stern fillers but I was aware of it and only just barely removed them. I followed the shape of the filler. I also had an issue with that bulkhead not being centered. I did build out the short side but ended up sanding 99% of it away and reducing the other side as per the fillers. 

 

 

In the third pic i have been running some planking tests. You can see i have decided the first planking will terminate at the end of the filler. Hey maybe I was "half right" in my rant 

 

The final planking will continue onto the keel end. I am not sure if I want to remove the full width of the stern post or a slightly shorter version and loose a scale point for having my rudder back (2 to 3mm) The plans show there is room and I don't think anyone will notice. It would also help me, the planks that come around the filler on my build would need to be thinned considerably to allow the stern post to protrude as much as shown in the plans near the top.  Currently I have about 1mm after planking. Hence my thought to just maybe extend the stern post rather then continue reducing the fillers or thinning the planks so much. I will make this call after the first planking when it will be hardest to remove the stern post material from the keel. . 

 

Because this really bothers me I need to address it. Call me weak. 

 

With this in mind I am going to commence planking instead of doing the gunport cannon supports as I should. I will do from the wales down. I am thinking 4 belts. I will start from the first belt down, then from the center up. I am hoping that while these planks are drying I can finish the cannon supports. I do not want to plank belts 4 and then 3 with those not done and feel I should know if this will work after two belts. If this is all starting to sound confusing. like a possible disaster, or the start of some 2 year adventure. Your not alone "lol"  

 

PS: I am also going to plank the first layer like it is a single planked hull and document it like i did in my Ratt build. I feel that anytime you get a free chance to screw up your planking you should take full advantage of it. I am hoping for steelers and drop planks galore. 

Edited October 11, 2014 by JPett

[mtaylor]

Interesting conundrum.  On the kits I've done, the stern post went on after the planking.   It should probably go on after planking on my Licorne... but.. I'm an idiot at times.   Give some thought to trimming down the deadwood and adding a post.  Or fake it with thin veneer and not trimming down the deadwood. 

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Mark: The idiot club does have a lot of members. I am on the board. Really it isn't a horrible thing but does highlight why many prefer scratch. Having someone someones else do the  thinking (here it is Corel) does have it's drawbacks. 

 

Back to the Build 

 

Speaking of idiots and the things that can occur when they think 

 

I am always trying to learn and perhaps I have too much fascination for the working of the world. With this in mind; I have decided to try and take advantage of this situation to better understand the dynamics of hull shape and plank direction 

 

Here it is more filler shape as it seems the hull shape is fine. See pic 1. The sweep of the plank as it lies on the bulkheads is excellent. I used my mounted pencil jig and marked the hull where the last Wale plank should be. Where it follows the contour I designed in my fillers "not so good". My pencil jig allows me to achieve a much higher level of accuracy then the method I previously used. This is highlighted where I marked the false cannon support which I now see is 2mm too high. We will let this slide.  

 

As this is just the first layer of planking I have room to play and play we will 

 

In the stern you can see I need to make an adjustment to get the plank to come up more as it wraps around the filler 

 

In the bow i have the exact opposite. The plank needs to come down a bit to hit its mark. I tried "brute force" and the plank started to clinker. Where as i could buy some Walnut sheets and spile these planks on the second planking I want to see if I can make some adjustments to my fillers and correct this. I also have some room here. I can make minor changes when I sand this first layer to alter the direction of next layer of planks.

 

The last pic shows I still have a ways to go learning to sand. While sanding the deck to match the outline of the bulkheads I beefcaked the bulkheads and now need to repair them. When will I learn "not" to do this "lol" 

Edited October 11, 2014 by JPett

[NMBROOK]

Looking good JPett I am following along in the background I wouldn't be overly worried about getting the plank run bang on,it is always preferable to have a little miss match between planking layers for strength reasons.Spiling the second layer in this area is a good idea and you can alleviate the need for any stealers.When you come to buy the walnut sheet,I do advise you either take with you,or mail an offcut to your supplier.Walnut can vary massively in colour.

 

Kind Regards

Nigel

[JPett]

Ahoy Nigel

 

First and foremost: Thank you. I consider it my good fortune to have someone of your caliber follow my build. 

 

As for the strength issue when considering the two layers of planking. "As is" Corel's keel, bulkhead, and stringer combination has created a mass that could be considered a deadly weapon. It really is a testament to the strength of a box. With the hull being so rigid I was hoping to do the first layer of planking as a guide for the second working out the steelers. drop planks and my planking skills. On the wales the kit uses different widths which should stagger the seams. I do agree that crossing the seams would create additional strength but I am not sure that much strength is needed. Currently without any planks this hull is as rigid as my fully planked Rattlesnake.  I plan to put some treenails in the first layer to "lock" it down to the bulkheads; just to be safe. 

 

Also Thank you for the tip on the Walnut. i had previously purchased a sheet from ME and sadly you are spot on. It is a beautiful piece but isn't even close 

Edited October 11, 2014 by JPett

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Thank you for the likes

 

Having your friends "like" what your doing really helps. Especially when your not sure what your doing 

 

Speaking of which 

Back to the build 

 

First I marked the path that the plank wanted to follow. 

 

Then I decided that because I could not subtract wood safely I would use positive numbers and then multiply by -1 

 

I used painters tape to slightly raise areas on the filler and tested with the plank to see how it was affected; paying attention to the any change in direction the tape caused. I would love to say my big brain got it on the first try but I wasn't even close. Anyways I found that by slightly raising the bottom near the bulkhead the plank's preferred course moved in the desired direction. Once this was discovered I very carefully started to sand the area opposite of the tape; again checking with the plank. The pic shows the plank properly positioned although there is still a very slight klinker at the bulkhead it is very close. I may or may not fix this but just let the plank drift up to reduce the klinker and then do the final repair when I sand the first planking. 

 

The stern is not going to be so easy. Testing there did not go well at all. Suggestions welcome. I might need to actually add wood to correct this and if this is so I will just plank it "as is" and then lie more planks over those and then sand it back down to the correct shape for the final planking 

 

 

[scott larkins]

Building another ship hug JPett?  I look forward to peeking in occasionally on this one.

[Sjors]

Very nice JP !

 

Have confidence in your self and all the pieces are falling at the places they have to go...( make sense ? )

I think you have found it how it has to be.

Surprise me a little bit more and go on 

 

Sjors

[dragzz]

hello jpett looking great so far .the frist planking is not fun to do at the back ther where u want to take your time as i did u are going the right way keep up the great work

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Scott: Yes, its an ADHD thing 

 

Sjors: Thx, not too sure about the falling thing though. 

 

Dragzz: Taking time is something I don't have a problem with. Now taking too much time, that is a different story. Slow would be an exaggeration to explain my progress.

 

 

Back to the build

 

Planking has commenced. I have found that planking is one of my favorite things to do in shipbuilding

 

I spent a lot of time making sure the first two planks which represent the last wale plank were correct. I knew from my last endeavor that this first plank would determine the run of ship. Normal procedure in my shipyard seems to be to do one side, followed by the other. Then after doing the second side finding flaws with the first and redoing it. Actually it went even further here: After making corrections to the first I then proceeded to find more things on the second (see pics). As I stated getting this right and starting off on the right foot is "to me" very important. Any time spent making these repairs always comes back to me during planking. I am not a big fan of this work but I know that it lets me enjoy the planking stage. 

 

One of my fixes was to raise the point in the bow. Although I took careful measurements from the plans and spent some time on it: it just did not look correct. I made the call to go with what I "with lack my experience" thought was correct and not what I was seeing on the plans. I am sure there will be retribution but this is the first layer of planking; and we have some room to experiment. My adjustments in the last post did reduce the klinkering but not enough and the planks that followed let me know if I did not change this I would be spiling sooner then I would prefer. 

 

In the pics you will also see that I have started on the cannon supports which also do not follow the plans. This was me just being stupid. I am not sure if this mistake will cause a problem but will need to check these after the first layer of planking. I really need to develop a habit of referring to the plans more before I start anything. I did look at the plans , just not all of them. Checking this sheet is even mentioned in the little book which makes my mistake even dumber.

 

 What I did was to measure the height of the gunport and put the wood between the bulkheads at that height on both bulkheads and at a depth 8mm or 5/16" on center. It should be fine where there is a single gunport between the bulkheads but might require a correction on any that have two. What I missed was the wood should not be at the same height on each bulkhead. Thankfully the port supports I have completed so far are in an area that has very little sweep. I also used a full length filler where the entry is supposed to be. The plans show this has a half filler which I will not be doing. I could hear it rattling inside the hull after I knocked it off. After I finished with the planking off course. I will have to give this some more thought. The rest of these will need to follow the sweep which will make them considerably harder to install. I am not good at measuring and then cutting angles but I guess it is time to improve that skill too.  I also have the first two that I installed which are 2mm too low to contend with. These are not easily removed and I am thinking of recessed holes or washers to adjust the cannons should they need it. I can always remove/cut out the planking around that bulkhead if I remember to check them before starting the second layer.  

 

In the pics you will see that I am following Chucks planking method using the fan and tick strips to mark every plank. I made a slight change where he uses string to create the belts. I like the 1/32 by 3/32 basswood. It tends to let me know how much klinkering my paths will cause and allows me to adjust them to reduce it. It was here that I made the call to change my first plank. I am going with 3 belts 7, 7 and 8 planks. For anyone following this build that equals 22 which is considerably less then shown on the plans. This difference has caused me a bit of a conundrum in the stern as I do not know how to plot the planks here. My measurements tell me that the space I need to cover here is equal to the width of 25.5 planks.  Where this totally confused me on my first build I now know that because the planks will be terminating here at an angle their widths will be greater. This does not however mean I know at what width and where so I will be winging this area on this first layer. It will be a learning experience that thankfully I have the good fortune to experience and then cover with the second layer. I was hoping for a drop plank in the bow but my measurements tell me otherwise. I purposely measured for one less plank where the filler meets the keel on the first belt to cause one. 

 

I am also using a plane to shape the planks. A really cheap POS I found at home depot and spent a few hours tuning. I might upgrade it. I am really hoping to improve my skills with this tool, I really don't see how they could get any worst. I am enjoying it but can see I need a jig of some sort to hold the plank. That and cheap ones really are worthless. At least this one is

 

Planking in the stern is also not as bad as I expected. The planks don't seem to mind the bend I have created for them. I use a piece of PVC pipe first then switch to a prescription pill bottle to preform them. I actually have found that if work them, bending them repeatedly around my forms; flipping them over and bending them in both direction they soften up and have no problems with the complexly of this stern.   I am also using a rather large pin that I predrill and actually hammer in to persuade planks. I need to miss less with the hammer. The pins leave a rather large hole  that is perfect for a treenail. We all know how much I like tree nails. Not as much as I like beer but it is on that list. 

 

Thanks for stopping by and comments are welcome. Please do not hesitate to critique my work. All I ask is that it is constructive 

Edited October 18, 2014 by JPett

[bhermann]

JPett - I go to Florida for a few days and see - THIS!  I'd say you've made a pretty decent leap here.  I will be following along with interest.  Lokks like you are off to your usual thoughtful start.  The run of the planking battens looks pretty sweet to me.

 

Bob

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Bob: What a pleasure to have you aboard. As I think I have told you before but will mention it again. It was your original Bluenose log that got me interested in this hobby. It has a greatly influenced me on how I post my builds. So there you have it. We can all blame Bob 

 

Back to the build 

 

Ahh the mystery deepens 

 

Planking is proceeding well. I am half way through my first belt. Without jinxing myself I would like to report that planking Corel's Victory so far has been an absolute pleasure. The supplied wood for the first layer bends like licorice after soaking for 15 minutes and then being worked over my PVC and pill bottle.  

 

Not so pleasurable but more like solving hieroglyphics prior to finding the one ring to rule them all; or was that a stone, has been Corel's instructions. To further exacerbate the mystery of the stern post I bring you this tidbit I found last night. 

 

On the very bottom of this image on plate 5, it shows #15 which is the rear and mid section of the plywood keel. Covering this on three sides is a piece of #33 which you can see also covers the lower half of the hull. It is the finish planking which means that the plywood keel is to be covered. While you might think this is a good thing, and it does solve the stern post debacle it now becomes a not so good thing in the bow. I have not yet found any images showing the large expanse of wood representing the bow/cut water of the plywood keel covered; nor does the kit include any wood wide enough to achieve this.

 

Either way I will have to take this one step at a time. Thankfully I have a few months to work this out. If anyone wants to spoil my little mystery by exposing the secret, please feel free to use my log. 

Edited October 17, 2014 by JPett

[augie]

JP, I keep looking at your drawing.  Is 33 not the final layer of planking and actually consists of strips rather than a "large expanse'. ?

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Augie: They are planking strips 5 mm by 1 mm 

 

My query is does Corel  expect me to also plank the the plywood keel in the bow (the large expanse). This would not look very good nor would it follow any know method of shipbuilding, Kit or otherwise. I do agree that the exposed wood here would look much better covered in a way to represent it's actual construction. Sadly I can not find "or have not yet found" any image on the plans, mention in the little book or wood in the kit to do this. In my first post for this log I show all the included wood

 

By adding the planking to the lower keel and I am now sure the keel post; one would think that something must also be added on the bow so that the keel thickness is consistent throughout the build (aside from any tapering)

 

That is my quandary 

 

So "YES"  

 

Back to the build 

 

I keeping with my usual method of the great execution of a flawed plan I have found that after starting my planking i have done my belts wrong "AGAIN". Yes I did this same thing on my Ratt. Thankfully I caught my error much sooner this time and do not think it will cause me the headache it caused on the Ratt.

 

My mistake is that I did not do plank widths for all the belts before starting to check my belts. I see now that the planks in the lowest belt would need to thin more then necessary and then flare out to full width tho meet the stern post. Sound familiar. With this in mind I will be redoing my belts and posting some pics. I do not think you need to do all the plank widths before starting but you do need to do some for each belt Bow, mid, and stern. 

 

Although I seem to be getting better at fighting the urge to lie a plank before its time; I see I still suffer from this dreaded infliction that causes so much suffering for so many in the world of shipbuilding. . 

Edited October 18, 2014 by JPett

[mtaylor]

 

My query is does Corel  expect me to also plank the the plywood keel in the bow (the large expanse). This would not look very good nor would it follow any know method of shipbuilding, Kit or otherwise.

 

 

The short answer to your question about planking the stem... yes they do.  I did a quick Google for images of the Corel Vic... and they all "factory" or "built OOB" show that funky planking on the stem/bow.

[JPett]

Ahoy Mark

 

You are so right 

 

Yuck 

 

This picture is courtesy of 

 

http://www.eltallerdelmodelista.com/victory-corel-sm23-p-9348.html?language=en

 

I am sure they do not mind me reposting it 

 

PS: As it this is an OOB build we will be doing this. I think if I match the wood carefully and cut it to show the parts that should make up the bow highlighting the seams with black paper caulking or dying the glue it will look acceptable and still be OOB 

 

Mystery solved: I will still be looking for this in the plans and will post it should I find it. Corel's plans are a puzzle but I am finding that the information always does seem to be there. 

Edited October 18, 2014 by JPett

[augie]

Aha --- the mystery has been solved.  We can all sleep tonight!

[dragzz]

hello jpett this going fun for us lol looking good

[dragzz]

hello jpett   here are some pics from a book that i have its called plank on frame models volume 2 from harold a underhill just trying to help here it is the pic are of hms vic scale   1/150  hope it helps

 

 

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Augie: And it will be without the plans tonight 

 

Dragzz: Fun is the only reason to be here. Thx for the pics too. I would have never thought that planking the bow would have been the solution. Just shows what I "don't know"  

 

 

Back to the Build 

 

Well with one mystery solved, and thank you Mark for making the effort: the shipyard is knee deep in planking. I have completed my first "drop" plank and while it did come out "OK" I do not think it would be appropriate on the finished planking. I will repeat this on the Port side only maintain a consistency in my problems planking.

 

The drop plank did relieve some of the klinkering but after installing it I see that I am over the line on bulkhead 1 and under on B2. I had this same problem on the Ratt. I have also re-re-re done the measurements and belts. I have way too many of these tick strips, they are like Tribbles in my shipyard, and still do not get this belt thing. Its so bad I had to switch to colored pencils. Thankfully this is just the first planking. My new brainstorm is to finish this belt which now only consists of 5 planks, i have 4 belts now 5,6,6,6, then redo the belts one more time. This time only doing 3 bulkheads 4,7, and 10;  dividing them into three equal belts then do the battens marking the other bulkheads as per how the battens lie. 

 

I am very happy with my planking so far. I work each plank as its own small project. My order is to taper the wood, cut it just a bit longer, soak it and then use "brute strength and superstition" to make them comply. With my little trick to soften them kinking planks has become a thing of the past. After they dry i use sandpaper to fit them. I only work one side so I always have one true side. I do work the true side of the plank above the new plan when i think i can get some more room. I have made up some special sanding sticks to alter already installed planks. I am also only using the Original Titebond which is not waterproof. This allows me to go back and make small adjustments after installation to reduce my final sanding. By adding water and a little heat; the glue debonds allowing me to make corrections. I might be getting a little too carried away with this.

 

I am however slightly concerned about the plethora of seams in the bow and whether this will have any negative effects on the final planking.  I might just tree nail the crap out of the bow just to be safe. The stern is still a mystery but it does look like it is coming along. Only time will tell here. I am trying to make sure the wood has full contact with the fillers because it looks like I will be sanding the planks pretty thin to allow for a stern post. 

 

Until next time. Thanks for stopping by and comments are always welcome. 

[NMBROOK]

Your planking is coming on well JP,you are quite correct,as long as the planking is in full contact with the stern fillers,no worries about how thin you have to take the planking at the sternpost.I think that the fact you are getting clinkering at the bow is a good pointer that you may have to spill some of these planks from sheet when it comes to the second layer to maintain the same line.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel