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Posted

I've found that scalpel blades are so much better than hobby blades. But I don't like the standard flat #3 scalpel handle. I like that it doesn't roll away, but I find it rather difficult to hold and determine if I'm holding it the right way. Are there any alternatives? I've got a Fiskars finger grip knife, which I really like. But it doesn't hold a #11 scalpel blades, only #11 hobby blades.

 

Suggestions?

 

TIA

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Posted

These handles are much better regarding comfort.  They are available from several sources UMM-USA.com -  put "Scalpel" into the search box and hit "enter" - blades and handles will come up.  Scroll down a bit.  Metal handle is about $8 and the plastic type is $5.   I much prefer the metal handle as it is a better fir to my big hands.  There are many tools here and John's prices are very good and he's a small business.

Amazon is another source.

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Posted

The notorious on-line auction houses have 'shops' that sell scalpel blades where the'best before'-date of the sterilisation has expired so the medics can't use them anymore. Boxes of 100 tend to by quite cheap.

 

The same 'shops' also offer heavier handles for the standard blades. Keep in mind that such scalpels are not designed for lateral forces ...

 

These micro-scalpels look interesting, have to look for a European source ... 

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Posted (edited)

I suggest getting real carving knives and relegating X-Acto and scalpel blades to tasks too abrasive for your good knives.😊

 

The advantages:

 

1. Much, much sharper. Both X-Acto and scalpels are made from relatively soft steel that is incapable of taking a real edge.

2. Edges last weeks instead of hours

3. Upkeep is about 15 minutes per knife every couple of weeks once you're comfortable with sharpening.

4. A real knife is a one-time investment. You'll spend way more over a lifetime of modeling on X-Acto and scalpel blades than you would on a carving knife, sharpening stones, and a strop.

 

If anyone wants to take the leap, DM me and I will walk you through what and where to get. I promise it will make a difference if you do😊

 

My knives. The three on the left I made for myself with Ron Hock blades, the two farthest left are a matched pair of left and right hand single bevel knives that I made specifically for how I do planking. The rest are a mix of American and Japanese knives.

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Edited by vossiewulf
Posted

How thick are the blades on those knives?  The single bevel ones are interesting.

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Posted
2 hours ago, RossR said:

How thick are the blades on those knives?  The single bevel ones are interesting.

.02"/.6mm on the one with the tiny blade up to .07"/2.01mm on the Japanese knives. These are all detail knives specifically for general-purpose precision trimming and cutting and carving.

 

Actually the single-bevel knives were made out of Japanese marking knives, not Hock blades, I forgot. You can get a matched pair of RC63 (very hard and therefore can be made very very sharp) sans handles here. For $14 each which is a steal in my opinion. The Japanese don't use them with handles, so we're the odd Westerners making wood handles for their marking knives 😊

Posted

@vossiewulf Your knives are amazing and I think that knives like these are far superior to scalpels.  They take commitment and skill though to make them effective  - alas I don't have your skills and I have tried over a quite a period of time to learn.  It's a skill I will never possess as I just don't have the patience.  It's so easy just to load another blade into the handle.  

Posted
13 minutes ago, No Idea said:

@vossiewulf Your knives are amazing and I think that knives like these are far superior to scalpels.  They take commitment and skill though to make them effective  - alas I don't have your skills and I have tried over a quite a period of time to learn.  It's a skill I will never possess as I just don't have the patience.  It's so easy just to load another blade into the handle.  

Thanks, and I understand 😊 If sharpening isn't for you then scalpel is your best option. I just want people to know that there is another option that is superior in most ways as long as you can learn to sharpen.

 

I personally find sharpening to be a very zen-like exercise where you stop thinking and get totally into the process. In other words, I like sharpening things, I find it very relaxing. 

Posted
On 12/6/2024 at 11:35 PM, vossiewulf said:

I suggest getting real carving knives and

I really like the idea. One of the reasons I like card modeling is because of the limited waste it produces but it does require constantly sharp blades. However, I'm constantly snapping off the fine point of the scalpel as I cut small curves of some card models. Would the harder metal of the better blade really be an advantage in that respect?

Posted
25 minutes ago, Jsk said:

I really like the idea. One of the reasons I like card modeling is because of the limited waste it produces but it does require constantly sharp blades. However, I'm constantly snapping off the fine point of the scalpel as I cut small curves of some card models. Would the harder metal of the better blade really be an advantage in that respect?

It's not the harder steel that would make it last longer, it's the slightly beefier steel you'll have on a point with a carving knife that will make it last longer. Xacto blades are just so skinny that the slightest twist and pop there goes the point.

 

The advantage to you with a real knife will be a much sharper edge than Xacto can produce and the knife edge will last orders of magnitude longer than the edge on an Xacto.

 

Further, if you really want to improve your results to the maximum, get a matched pair of single-bevel Japanese marking knives so that you can cut a perfectly square edges on your card pieces no matter which direction you need to cut. Just be aware that any edge that is really pointy needs to be handled with care.

 

Take a look at the left and right hand Kiridashi knives at 18mm. If you want to give something a try PM me and we'll walk through the details of what you need.

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