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Posted

This morning I accidentally caught the top mast, and almost snapped it. It’s weakened at the point where the 1mm hole is and is never going to hold when  I complete the rigging process!

when

I stopped sobbing and started to think of my options, which are these I think-

splint ?

some kind of support fabric?

re- do the top mast section, which could cause more damage in the process ( and having seen Glenn-UK’s post on HMS Sphinx I realise that the smart way is not to assemble the top mast at this stage!)

 

if anyone out there has advice,I would love to hear from you.

Couple of pics. attached, please don’t judge to harshly, I know I’m in the company of experts, but I only have my dining room table!
thanks I hope 

john
 

 

IMG_1836.jpeg

IMG_1837.jpeg

Posted

I hate to say it... but sometimes a "do over" is the best answer.

Remove the offending part and make a new one.

Seems like a kick in the sensitive parts right now, but when your done you will be much happier and will be wondering why you hesitated... but we all do so you are not alone.

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

Posted (edited)

I am with Alan on this one. I think you should just remake it. Also as you said it is better to not add things that stick out until you are completely ready for them. I like to only put the lower masts in, then rig them, then proceed to the topmasts, then rig them etc...

Edited by Thukydides
Posted

If I haven't made  50% of a Model at least twice then I'm not sure I've really built it.  I think the other guys are right...   remake it.

Posted

 John, at one time or another most of us have been in your shoes. When building these fragile models breakage is to be expected.

 

 Short of doing the correct thing by replacing the broken part, you might try removing the broken top part of the mast, drill holes into the two faces, insert a brass pin made from brass wire, and CA glue the two pieces back together. It's a long shot, it might work but it's always going to nag at you. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

I did the same with my prototype model, the one that's on the box art! But it was the fore topgallant I caught and snapped. You can see it slightly bent in all the finished pics - all I could do was apply a drop of glue and keep it in place until set. But it still has a slight tilt...

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Posted (edited)

i hate when that happens!

 

i kept snapping my bowsprit in the same place several times. my final fix was to dowel it. i drilled both part's center ever so slightly oversized hole to fit the shaft of a fishing hook. fishing hook wire is pretty tough metal. check how the broken parts fit exactly as they broke. i used epoxy in both parts holes. because the hole is slightly larger, its not critical to get the wire to align exactly centered due to the oversized hole. 

 

so far my fix hasnt broken at that fragile point even though ive hit it a few times since. i did put a red flag on it so i can see it and stay clear of it next time. 

 

btw we have a thread here on just this subject with a few good fixes. 

 

 

Edited by paul ron
Posted

Good decision, John. Sometimes a do-over is the best option.

Console yourself with the thought that you haven't added the standing rigging.

Attached is a photo of my current commission to restore a vintage model with several broken masts and spars that need dramatic repairs (prior to sorting-out the rigging mess); a family cat jumped on my client's glass case, collapsing the top panel onto the ship.

 

I show you my challenge to perk you up, accentuate the positive! It could be worse.

Ron

PortFullDamage.thumb.jpg.029e3f7abf0b877bae2890f69c2a73bb.jpg

RigDamageRef.thumb.jpg.ea0ba57f7334749aad30417396e7f3b3.jpg

 

 

 

 

Ron

Director, Nautical Research Guild

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

 

Current Build: HM Gunbrig Cracker #13 (HM Adder Gunbrig)

Completed Builds: Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner), HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS Godspeed, HMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

Posted

 Ron, the ship looks salvageable but can the cat be saved? 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

John,

 

Replacing the broken piece won't be much of a problem. You don't have rigging in place yet.

 

However, the suggestions to splice the break are not too far fetched. All of the rigging exerts a downward force, and that will hold the pieces together. And the different stays and lines balance each other if you get them rigged right, so the mast shouldn't try to bend.

 

When installing the rigging do not pull the lines tighter than the minimum force necessary to get them to stand straight without sagging. You really shouldn't be putting much strain on the masts and spars.

Phil

 

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted
15 hours ago, hollowneck said:

Good decision, John. Sometimes a do-over is the best option.

Console yourself with the thought that you haven't added the standing rigging.

Attached is a photo of my current commission to restore a vintage model with several broken masts and spars that need dramatic repairs (prior to sorting-out the rigging mess); a family cat jumped on my client's glass case, collapsing the top panel onto the ship.

 

I show you my challenge to perk you up, accentuate the positive! It could be worse.

Ron

PortFullDamage.thumb.jpg.029e3f7abf0b877bae2890f69c2a73bb.jpg

RigDamageRef.thumb.jpg.ea0ba57f7334749aad30417396e7f3b3.jpg

 

 

 

why not put some pirates climbing aboard and fighting on deck with the crew as if she were overtaken in battle? 

 

you have alot of work ahead.

 

Posted
18 hours ago, Keith Black said:

 Ron, the ship looks salvageable but can the cat be saved? 

When I picked the model up from my client I saw no evidence of any household pets. Plausible deniability!

 

MaineCoonCat.jpg.06dbda96c5444b0c3be699864fb97ac9.jpg

 

 

Ron

Director, Nautical Research Guild

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

 

Current Build: HM Gunbrig Cracker #13 (HM Adder Gunbrig)

Completed Builds: Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner), HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS Godspeed, HMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, paul ron said:

why not put some pirates climbing aboard and fighting on deck with the crew as if she were overtaken in battle? 

 

you have alot of work ahead.

 

One mast. One spar. One rigging line at a time. I'm Keeping Calm. Carrying On.

I've added an overhead "gantry" to my workshop's ceiling to suspend the model's rigging mess while I repair the broken masts and spars. Three clamps on the glued maintop that is in four broken pieces. Intense lighting also helps.

NorskeMain001.thumb.jpg.e9bb58323a1cbf0edb05c80824fdadf4.jpg

Edited by hollowneck
grammar

 

Ron

Director, Nautical Research Guild

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

 

Current Build: HM Gunbrig Cracker #13 (HM Adder Gunbrig)

Completed Builds: Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner), HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS Godspeed, HMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

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