HMS Victory by Jeff-E - FINISHED - Panart - 1:78 Scale - Bow Section

[olliechristo]

Looking really tidy Jeff. The copper matches in nice with the keel colour and I think all that time spent on plates is really going to make this model.. regards Ollie

[Jeff-E]

Hi Ollie,

 

Thank you very much, it is a tedious but enjoyable task

[gjdale]

Glad to hear that you solved you copper plate cutting quandary Jeff. Nice progress.

[Jeff-E]

Thanks Grant progess should be a little bit quiker and less frustrating now  

[Jeff-E]

Hi All,

 

A little more progress, all the lower strakes of each wale is now fitted and I have started to make the second strake for each of the three lower wales these should be fairly straight forward to fit as they just lay on top of  the strake below.

I have also done some more copper plating on both sides.

 

 

 

 

While browsing the forum the other night I came across a jig by GTM in the 'wooden tips and tricks and making jigs' section  for making eye pins as I had been thinking about how I was going to make some very small hooks for my cannon rigging I thought it was a great idea and that maybe I could use it for making hooks for the tackle on my cannons.

So I made the jig up out of a piece of dowel, he used brass rod which will be much more durable, but I don't have any on hand and it works a treat. Thankyou very much GTM   I can make a hook out of 0.3mm wire 2mm long in about 2 minutes.

I will give a brief description how I made mine but for a full description go to the page mentioned above, first I dilled a 0.85mm in the end of the dowel close to the edge about 12mm deep, then I filed a flat on the dowel about 4mm in from the end until half of the previosly drilled hole was exposed a slot was then cut on one side of the hole so that the eye of the hook can be inserted into it so it will stay in line with the bite of the hook.

 

 

To use the jig I inserted a 0.75mm drill bit backwards in my pin vice and lay the wire onto the jig and push the drill bit into the hole, trapping the wire in the half hole, then it just a matter of bringing the tag end of the wire over to meet the main piece and you have a eye formed.

 

 

Remove from the jig and then lay the eye into the slot insert the drill bit into the hole again and bend the wire around until you form a hook, remove it from the jig and trim  up

 

 

The finished product

 

 

As I have about 100 of these to make I would like to thank GTM for his time saving and brilliant Idea.

 

Sorry if some of the pics are a bit blury but the light was a bit dull even with the flash  

Edited December 29, 2013 by Jeff-E

[Stockholm tar]

Jeff,

 

You're making some progress – but without sacrificing quality workmanship. Glad you sorted out the copper plate cutting problem, and they look really good.

 

You're also making me want to get back to my own bow section, which hasn't had anything done to it for some time!

[AntonyUK]

Hi Jeff.

Nice progress with plates.

Yes that's a very nice idea on making small hooks and eyes.

 

All the best Antony.

[Jeff-E]

Hi Kester and Antony,

 

Thankyou both for your kind words.

 

Kester - Yes I am quite pleased with how the plates are running so far.

              I hope yopu get back to your build soon.

 

Anotny - Yes it really is rather handy and can be adapted for manking all different sizes

[gjdale]

Well done Jeff. I'd read that post on making eyes and wondered how it would work - very well it would seem!!!

[Glenn-UK]

Great information on use if the jig. Something I will bear in mind for the future as as my build progresses

 

Keep up the good work, I think you should be very proud with what you have already done.

Edited December 28, 2013 by Glennard

[Ronnie B]

Lokking good Jeff !!

Im just glad I have a pictorial to go by for my build This will help me alot.I am slowly starting and already made a mistake,  ( I thought ), but after looking at your log i see how i can fix it . Being my first build ,I see how people say directions are not totaly clear on all aspects of building order,

I have been taking pics as I go so I can post my build (Maybe) we will see how it goes.

Thanks again,

[Jeff-E]

Hi Grant, Glenn and Ron,

 

Thank you all for your kind comments.

 

Ron - The instructions can be a bit vague and sometimes out of step, I use them as a guide only and after studying them decide how I am going to proceed with the build.

I hope your mistake is an easy fix and if you have any questions please ask as you will get a lot of help from builders on this forum.

I look forward to seeing your log posted  

[Jeff-E]

Hi All,

 

Some more progess, the lower and middle wales are fitted and the timbers at the bow for the hawse ropes to go through are also fitted between the lower and middle wales. I cannot find, in any of my books, what these timbers are called if they do have a name and I imagine they do, so any help would be appreciated. They are most noteable in the last pic

 

 

 

 

 

The gaps betwween the middle and upper wale at the stem is to facilitate the fitting of the first frame which supports the beakhead deck . The port side middle wale is fitted I just took these photos beforehand. It is clamped and pinned in positon so you can't realy see much of it

 

[The Sailor]

Very nice progress, Jeff. Keep on the good work.

[Jeff-E]

Thank you Richard, I am getting there slowly

[Jeff-E]

Hi All,

 

I have made some more progress over the last couple of days. The wales are complete and I am quite happy with how they turned out I was a bit worried about getting the lines to look right.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have also drilled the hawse holes and fitted the stem supports which lie under the hawse hole blocks, these supports were laser cut ply and did not fit against the hull properly where the stem meets the bow planks so I glued some scrap 1.5 x 5mm strips to them and then filed them down to fit the shape of the hull

 

 

 

 

The first two frames for the beakhead deck have also been fitted

 

 

After the other two are fitted I will be some filling and sanding of the bow area where these parts have been fitted an then painting the area before fitting the beakhead deck as some areas will be hard to get to once it is fitted.

[Glenn-UK]

It's good to see the progress you're making. I hope to be up and running again in the next few days. Happy New Year.

[gjdale]

Looking good Jeff. How are you getting on now with the coppering?

[Captain Slog]

Hi Jeff,

 

The wales look good.  They certainly add another 'dimension' to the hull bulking it up to a nice shapely form.

 

I was going to suggest you might think about at least partially painting parts of the framework which may be difficult later but see by your comments your on to it.

 

Cheers

Slog

[mobbsie]

Hi Jeff,

 

A very Happy New Year to you and yours mate.

 

She's looking real good, coming together nicely. Good job on the coppering, have you much more to do on that.

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

[Jeff-E]

Hi Glenn, Grant, Slog and Mobbsie, 

 

Happy New year to all of you and your familys and thank you all for your kind words.

 

Grant - I'm going OK with the coppering now that I have an easy way of cutting the plates but is does become a bit fiddly sometimes when there are very small triangular patrs to shape and fit. So I take a bit of a break from it to work on other parts of the bow

 

 Slog -  I am very happy with how the wales turned out and I think they will look better when painted

 

Mobbsie - I am 8 strakes down on the port side and 5 down on the starboard and I will be doing 12 on each side before coming up from the keel, so there is a bit to go   . As I said to Grant above it does get a bit fiddly so I have been doing other things on the build to have a bit of a break from it, I hope to make a good run at it over the next few days so we'll see how go. 

After a bit of painting there's not much more I can do on the upper half as I need to turn the hull upside down to finish coppering the bottom

Edited January 2, 2014 by Jeff-E

[dragzz]

well jeff u are just moveing right a long with the build i see so far i see its going really for u its looking great so far i like the plateing that u are doing where u get the plate at 

[Jeff-E]

Hi Dragzz,

 

Thankyou for your kind words .

 

 The plates were supplied with the kit

[Jeff-E]

Hi All,

 

I have made a bit more progress today. I have coppered a few more strakes on the port side only 2 to go till I reach my gore line on that side. I also came across a better method of making the plates fit when you come to cutting the angles where they meet the stem or the battern.

It is in one of Keith Julier's books and he says to lay the plates but as they reach a point where they need to be cut , cut a full plate to fit the angle and the fill the gap behind it with a half or three quarter plate. It saves trying to cut very small triangular  shapes some of which on my hull are only 2 or 3mm long and trying to trim them to make them fit neatly.

I did skim through this article but did not quite understand what he meant  but I do now and although I will plate the starbord side to match the port side I will be using this method from here on in.

 

 

I have also fitted the last 2 beakhead deck frames and started to paint the area behind them and the gunports

A note to anyone else building model if you do intend to paint it paint the space between the middle and upper wale at the bow BEFORE fittng the beakhead deck frames as this area is a bit hard to access after they are fitted. I should heed my own advice, I said in my last  update that these areas will be difficult to get at   

 

A couple of pic's of the gunports, this is only the first coat

 

 

 

Last of all I would like to ask your opinion of the colour for in between the wales.The first pic shows the  colour as it is at the moment, this is Tamiya flat yellow, I think it is a bit bright. I am thinking of using yellow ochre, I think it is by Mantua, which is on the stick in the second pic. It is the same colour as I painted the test gun carriges

 

 

 

 

I would order some yellow ochre from Caldercraft or Admiralty paints but the only supplier I know of in Australia, Minature Steam, is out of stock 

Edited January 2, 2014 by Jeff-E

[dragzz]

looking very nice the gun ports look great iam not looking forward to mine on my build lol 

[AntonyUK]

Hi Jeff.

As you said the yellow is a bit bright.

The yellow ochre :- Cornwallmodelboats have it in stock.

 

The plates are comming along nicely .. Don't rush them.

 

Regards Antony.

[Stockholm tar]

Hi Jeff,

 

She's coming on well, and good job on the coppering.

 

Re the colour. I'd go with the yellow ochre, which is the colour used on the real ship. Many models are painted in lighter colours, but to my mind they don't look right. I read once that Nelson and Hardy decided on the darker shade because it was cheaper. 

[Jeff-E]

Hi Dragzz, Antony and Kester,

 

Thank you all for your kind words and swift replies

 

Dragzz - Are your gunports pre cut or do you have to cut them out in your kit after you have planked the hull

 

Antony - Thank you, I will take my time doing the coppering. I will keep it in mind that they have it stock.

 

Kester - I agree with you and I will give the yellow ochre a go  and see how it looks

[Captain Slog]

Hi Jeff,

 

As the others have said, definitely the yellow ochre.  I got my Admiralty Paints from CWB with no problems and came quick as well and if I remember was cheaper than buying from Miniature Steam! Although that was few years ago now and not sure of the current prices.

 

Cheers

Slog

[mikec]

What a fantastic model and build you have going here. I have just stumbled on this log. Great tips and workmanship.

Re the colour I used humbrol 74 on my Victory (although it is not the correct colour when matched to the real ship, it looks right in scale)

 

I originally started my Victory using the correct colour and just looks wrong in scale. 

 

Thanks for the great log, I will follow with interest, happy new year Mike