18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways

[Stuntflyer]

Finally got most of the inner hull details completed. I used Blacken-it on all the metal parts. 15 minute baths in acetone and vinegar in that order and then 50% reduced Blacken-it with distilled water. The windlass and handle where made next. I could not get each end super close to the riser because the riser is at a slight angle. Though everything looks good, if I did the model again, I would sand the frames slightly more vertical so the risers would be more perpendicular. Handle is not glued yet. I was hoping to get wooden belaying pins of the right scale but they are not available according to Chuck. I painted the brass ones from the kit after applying a gray primer coat first. I used yellow ochre Acrylic paint with a touch of orange, white and burnt orange. After I place the oarlocks using 24 guage wire I will clean up the red paint on the cap rail and paint them red as well.

 

 

Transom frieze

 

 

Augie told me about this product which he uses to flatten glossy acrylic paint. It's very easy to use and works great. Just a light spray is all that's needed. I will use it on the red paint later.

 

Edited June 4, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Looks great to me! 

[tlevine]

I used Testor's reflectance reducer to topcoat my friezes.  There has been no yellowing after a year.

[Stuntflyer]

I finished the oarlocks, the horse located in front of the transom and red paint work today.

 

Looks crude but it works. Made from scrap 3/32" aluminum stock to even out the oarlocks using a file.

 

 

The oarlocks were painted with the same wood tone color that I used on the belaying pins in order to lighten the color of the wire. I then did all the red painting as necessary including the oarlocks. All of the red was then sprayed with the Testors clear dull coat. I sprayed the clear into an airbrush container and used the airbrush to spray. This gave me finer control over the area being sprayed. Even though you can't see it in the photo the red has no shine at all and looks very evenly toned now that it has been sprayed with the Testors Dullcoat.

 

Edited June 8, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[Chuck]

That looks so good.  Wonderful work!! 

[Stuntflyer]

A big thank you to Chuck, Pops, Ryland, Andy, Mike Y, Sam, David B. and others who have looked in. I really appreciate all the positive comments and words of encouragement.

[Stuntflyer]

Made some progress over the past 2 days by completing the rudder and tiller. The tiller was made with the kit supplied 1/16" square basswood. It is thinned down to 1/32" at its narrowest point. I've never worked on anything this fragile so I had to be super careful. The pintles and gudgeons were made from kit supplied 1/32" x 1/64" brass strip and the pin was made using a tiny piece of 28 gauge wire soldered to the brass strip. As per Chuck's instructions, the cutouts in the rudder might need to be deepened slightly to ensure that the pintles lay even to the rudders edge. If they are not flush there will be a gap between the rudder and transom. The pintles and gudgeons were painted with Badger 16-05 Weathered Black.

 

Once everything was done a thin coat of Dullcoat(not seen in the photo)was sprayed over the entire structure. This has the added benefit of sealing the Weathered Black paint which has a tendency to rub off easily.

 

Edited June 10, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[Stuntflyer]

Some photos of the mast. The sheaves are there but not seen from this view.

 

 

Edited June 18, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[Stuntflyer]

Finished the bowsprit today. I painted all the parts off the model to keep things looking as clean as possible.

 

I glued the "bowsprit step" in place as per the instructions. After sliding the end of the bowsprit into the step I slid the smaller brass band up against the stem. Once I was sure that there was no play fore and aft I spot glued the small brass band to the bowsprit. I then removed the bowsprit from the "bowsprit step" by pulling the bowsprit gently forward. Once removed, I applied more glue to the brass band and painted the bowsprit behind the brass band black. I then glued everything permanently into place.

 

Edited June 19, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Looks great Stuntflyer!  

 

Be good when I get that far along.

[dgbot]

Looking good.  Your bowsprit is nice and the planking on the bow is great.

David B

[Stuntflyer]

Thanks guys!

 

Pops. . . Your coming along nicely and fast too. You will be where I am in no time.

 

David B. . .Do you have any build logs I can follow? 

[Stuntflyer]

Just did my first ever seizing even though it took 5 attempts to get it halfway right.

 

Edited June 26, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[Stuntflyer]

This is what happens when your not careful.

 

Edited June 27, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Ouch!

 

Is that repairable?  (hope so)

[Stuntflyer]

I'm trying to fix it now. It broke at the bottom sheave hole which is a weak spot. Will take pics of what I hope will be a working solution. Definitely don't want to make another one. But, I will if I have to.

Edited June 27, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[dgbot]

One way of repairing is to add another piece. Cut of 1/4 of an inch off of each part making sure the cut is square.  Using a #78 or 79 drill make a hole in the center of each.  Make a dowel 1l2 an inch long just a litte wider than you need and drill that as well connect the parts together using a piece of wood that will fit the holes.  Once the glue has set feather and paint.  This is what I have done in the past.  Your accident has happened to many of over the years. By having large hands some more than most.

David B

[Stuntflyer]

David - your idea sounds really good but I wanted to try something I used to do on the airplanes to strengthen glued wing joints. When doing aerobatics with 90 degree pullouts at 60 mph, 10-15g stresses on the airplane are common.

 

1. First step was to glue the mast together with epoxy glue.

 

 

2. Use 1/2oz or 3/4oz fiberglass cloth, I chose 3/4 oz, to strengthen joint. 0.0015 thick.

 

 

3. Attach the cloth to the mast by spraying the cloth with spray adhesive and wrapping the cloth around the mast just once.

 

 

4. Here is a photo of the wrapped and glued cloth. At this point the joint is stronger but still not strong enough.

 

 

5. Apply 4 to 5 thin CA applications lightly sanded between coats. After the first application the mast is super strong without any flex at the joint. The additional applications will fill the weave of the cloth.

 

 

6. Finished mast repair

 

Edited June 30, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[HIPEXEC]

I'm trying to spruce up the aluminum long boat that came with my kit. I shall copy some of your stuff. 

[Stuntflyer]

Thanks Rich, much appreciated. Your Constitution looks awesome! Do you have photos here of the Aluminum long boat?

Edited July 1, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[dgbot]

Great technique, I did not think of that method as I never use fibergass cloth.  Plus since the break was near the sheave hole my method would have removed a potiential weak spot.  I just learned something new again.  That is why this forum works.  Just by reading the logs you learn different ways of doing things.

David B

[samueljr]

Stuntflyer 

 

Great tip and method!

 

Nice work too.........

 

Sam

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Even closeup you can't even tell it was broken!

 

Amazing work!

[Stuntflyer]

With the mast repaired and re-glued into the hull my next project will be the boom and gaff. I shaped and painted the two parts without any problem but had no idea how to do the seized block and rigging that went along. I posted the topic on "Masting, Rigging and Sails" found here . .http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/7277-stropping-and-seizing/#entry215601. Some great tips and how-to's came out of that post but I needed more information. I talked with Chuck who also gave me a number of great tips and how-to's as well as explaining that I was over thinking the process. His opinion was that "The scale is too small to do it the way it would be done on the actual ship". Needles to say I had to do a number of trial runs before I was satisfied with the results. I will pass on the tips as I post new photos.

 

The gaff rigging was made from one piece of rope. Measuring off the plans the length of rope is approx 48mm. I seized the loop around the gaff in the middle first. The second loop was then seized for the peak of the gaff. I moved that seizing to approx 48mm of the first seizing and pulled the loop tight to the peak of the gaff. When I first did the seizings I thought they looked too large so I removed 1 strand from the tan rope to make it thinner. The thickness went from .015 to .010 and to me it looks more realistic. As Chuck said "Its just very tricky and there are no silver bullets." BTW; the black color is very dark, not what you see in the photo.

 

Edited July 8, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

looking good dude!  

 

I understand that "over-thinking" issue.  It's my worst enemy!

[divarty]

Wow I just went through your build log, exceptional work, I wouldn't believe it was your first build if you hadn't mentioned it.

[Stuntflyer]

Thanks guys, your kind words keep me going.

 

I have made and destroyed several seizings in an effort to understand and do what Chuck has explained to me. Here is the end result. . .

 

I formed the eye at the bottom of the block by making an overhand knot around a looped piece of rope and sliding the knot down over a pin and pulling it tight. I applied a few thinned coats of white glue to stiffen the eye and once it was dry I removed it from the pin. I tied the rope around the block with another knot and glued that. I wrapped the loose ends (forming a double wrap) of the rope around the boom and tied it off at the bottom of the boom with an another overhand knot. Looking at the photos of Chuck's build it's hard to tell if he tied the final knot on top of the boom which would make it a single wrap, I think. The double wrap is small and looks clean so I went with it.

Edited July 16, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[dgbot]

Looking good Stunt Flyer.  Is there a Bass Pro or a Fishing place near you.  Go check out the fly tying equipment.  You would be amazed at the amount of stuff that can be used for very fine rigging and the lines are nice too.

David B

[Stuntflyer]

David - Thanks for the tip. The closest Bass Pro store is 3 1/2 hrs away in Harrisburg, PA. They say that there will be one "coming soon" in Bridgeport, CT and that is only 45 min from me. I will go there after they open.

[dgbot]

You will also find this stuff in any sporting place or outdoor place.  Dicks. Sportmart etc.  You will be a kid in a candy store.

David B