Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section

[mtaylor]

Sweet Maury... good on you. 

[Trussben]

Nice Maury, well executed and very clean.

 

Ben

[Maury S]

While waiting for the next installment, I bought some Holly for the decks and worked a plank into shape on the Byrnes table saw for the waterway.  The area between the beam and the ceiling plank was set earlier with a prototype waterway.  The waterway is not yet glued in place.

Maury

Edited March 14, 2014 by Maurys

[druxey]

Looks good, Maury. 

[jml1083]

Very nice Maury, very nice indeed!

 

I've got to get back to mine one of these days. Too many irons in the fire right now.

[Maury S]

Now that the next installment is available, I've added a bit more.  Carlings are measured out from the center-line and installed, and I've cut the hanging knees (both lower and upper deck knees) to form before final fitting.  Holes in knees will be filled with black monofilament line to simulate iron bolts.  The lodging knees are already put in place in the second photo.

Maury

Edited April 28, 2014 by Maurys

[TomShipModel]

Great looking Maury,

 

I haven't started mine as of yet so I am drinking in all that you have learned with yours.  Thanks.  It really looks fine.

 

Tom R

[Maury S]

Thanks for the likes.  I appreciate the critical comments as well.  This is a learning experience and I've got a lot to learn.  Pics. follow:  Testing the fit of the aft-hanging knee.  The space available behind the beam is short, so I made the aft knees a bit thinner.  Installing and clamping the hanging knees.  The closeup of the installed knee shows it's not as perfectly fit as Greg's, but I'm getting better. The "iron bolts" visible on this pic.  Ledges coming up next and a few challenges.

Maury

 

[alangr4]

 

This is fine and delicate work Maury, well done.

 

How deep did you go with the "iron bolts"?

 

The knees in your bottom pic look like they were constructed of several pieces - were they?

 

Alan

[Maury S]

Alan, The collection of knees includes the upper-deck knees.  All cut as single pieces.  The "Iron bolts" were drilled all the way thru for most holes.   The ones deepest in the bend of the knees were drilled about 1/4".  The monofilament line (Amnesia brand) was dipped into some CA glue and inserted into the hole, cut flush and the end immediately wiped with acetone to remove any trace of the glue on the edge of the wood.  That technique is directly from Ed Tosti's Naiad log.

Maury

[alangr4]

 

Thanks Maury.  The steer on the use of the monofilament line is appreciated.

 

Alan

[Maury S]

Ledges:  Pics # 1 & 3 are out of order.  I laid out the pattern from the plans, marking where the ledges intersect the carlings and lodging knees.  I got ahead of the instructions and permanently installed the lodging knees when I put in the hanging knees.  Cutting the notches in the knees became a problem.  I used a chisel blade to start the notch, gouged out as best I could and used a home-made rounded sanding piece (See fourth picture...thin strip of 220 grit paper glued to the rounded edge) to clean out the notch.  One side of the ledges were cut to a 67.5 degree angle in the miter box, trimmed to 70 degrees on the sander and then marked for the proper length.  I then cut the other side, and gently sanded at 70 degrees to the proper length, checking for fit every few passes.  Each ledge cut to fit separately.  I marked the top side of each ledge with a pencil mark to 1] make sure I cut the correct side and 2] provide a sanding guide for after all are installed.

Maury

Edited April 30, 2014 by Maurys

[Trussben]

Very Nicely done Maury.

 

ben

[Maury S]

(second time I posted this) The ledges are finished.  Going back over the installation, the carlings and lodging knees were marked from the plans, showing where the ledges connect.  The carlings were scored with a knife and cut enough to create a shoulder.  The notches were then cleaned up with a fine swiss file per Greg's suggestion.  The ledges connecting with the lodging knees were covered in a previous post.  After all were individaully cut and fit, they were glued in place.  A sanding board was run across the beams, carlings & ledges to smooth and even the entire area.  I milled and cut the holly deck planks to rough size.  They will be installed at a later time.  Now for the next installment.

Maury

[alangr4]

Precision working Maury. Looking great.

 

Alan

[Maury S]

Back at work on the section.  Next step is the partners.  I drilled a 19" (+ / _) hole in a piece and then cut it in half.  Later I added a thin strip to the cut edges to widen it over the carlings...and let down the underside edges 1" on the sides and ends to fit over the beams and carlings.  Edges are softened.  The coamings and head ledges to the lower deck hatches are 6" wide and 4" thick.  There are 2" x 2" rebates in the coamings (not the ledges) for the grating.  The corner joints are a simple over-lap.  Since the deck planks are 2" thick, I followed David's lead from TFFM.  Cut a corner out of a piece of 2" thick scrap and use that as a platform to notch the corners with a chisel, then cut down on a 45 degree angle to the platform (leaving a square section on the lower edge).  The 45 degree angles were then rounded off with a 220 grit sanding stick.

Time to talk about the gratings.  I did not have a slitting blade near the required thickness of about 2 3/4"  (.057" at scale) so I put two blades together with a .05" thick paper spacer to attain the required thickness.

I first tried the method Greg described in Vol. 3 of TFFM (moving a scrap 2 x the thickness of the cut, adjusting the fence and repeating.  They did not come out even so I built a jig.  This time I put a square piece of thin plywood against the fence and over the blade and raised the blade well thru the ply. The fence was then loosened and a piece of batten material two times the thickness of the two-blade cut was inserted between the ply and fence and the fence re-tightened.  The blade was then lowered, batten removed and ply re-set against the fence.  This created an offset the desired width of the gratings.  I then raised the blade to cut about 1/2 the thickness of the batten and ran the ply over the blade creating a channel or dado the thickness of the batten.  Batten then inserted and glued in the dado creating a fence in the jig.  Hardwood sliders cut to fit the channels in the saw table, jig flipped over so the new fence was on the top side, blade raised thru the open slot in the jig, sliders set in the table and glued to the ply.  Jig completed.  Picture attached.  Blade set to the proper height thru the jig and a piece of 1/16" box wood material run cross grain over the blade, repositioned over the fence and repeated until I had enough material.  That was then sliced into the notched pieces for the gratings.

More later.

Maury

[WackoWolf]

Nice idea. Your doing a wonderful job with this build. Keep posting the pictures and Thank you for sharing this.

[gjdale]

Great idea with your jig and "dado" blade arrangement. Are there any issues to be aware of when mounting two blades like that? Would love to see more pics of your jig arrangement if you have any. The finished gratings look excellent.

[Maury S]

Grant,  Back when I did a lot of (furniture) woodworking, the standard way of cutting a dado involved stacking blades and maybe chippers between.  Just be sure the blades are the same diameter and hole same diameter.

Maury

[Maury S]

The lower deck partners were modified a bit.  A thin strip was added to the inner edge of each piece to push the partners out over the carlings.  Under side shows the let-in so they fit between the beams and carlings.  There is a minor re-do on the carlings.  There needs to be room for the pump cases etc to fit so a second set of carlings is needed outboard of the existing ones.  Because the ledges aligned well, I chose to remove the notched carling and relocate it to the outboard position and re-size the ledges.   New carlings were then added to the notches left from the removed pieces.  Also note...My well is either way too narrow, or the plans needed on-site revisions.  The pump cases pass thru the decks, between the set of carlings and intersect the top walls of the well rather than pass through to the limber channel.  I can't replace the well at this stage, so I cut out parts of the side walls to allow the cases to at least look like they are going into the well.  The inside of the well will not be visible so it's a mistake few will notice.  DIfferences can be seen between pics two and three. 

Maury

[Maury S]

Upper Deck Mast carlings and partners:  A challenge but not hard.  I squared up a piece to 11" sided and used the table saw to cut out the flat parts, a chisel to cut the angled parts, and I inserted 6" square battens  on the lower edge for the ledges/supports.  The partners were a bit more of a challenge with the octagonal hole for the mast.  Per Greg's technique in TFFM III, I cut little 45 degree corner pieces and glued them in place to created the octagon.  It took a few times to get the little pieces to match the size of the other edges.  Picture's a bit blurry.  Next is lining up the upper deck center beam.

Maury

 

 

[Maury S]

In order to line up the pump cases, elm tree pumps and mast partners the upper deck beams need to be aligned.  As I read it, the aft edge of the center beams (upper and lower) must align vertically.  Slight variation for the fore and aft beams is tolerable.  I used a machinist square to line up the center beam and pin it in place.  Once that and the aft beam are situated, you can finish the carlings and partners.  Use a card template copy of the scaled partner layout with holes cut out for the cases, elm tree, mast and the bitts.  Then the cases can be inserted at the correct angles and positions.  This is where I found the problem with the well walls. Once that's done, the lower deck planking can be started.  Getting a good fit of the cases through the planking is tricky and best achieved by making a card template and adjusting to make everything fit (Octagonal hole for the elm tree being the most difficult).  I went through three card templates and two pieces of wood before I was happy.

Maury

[Maury S]

The template for the holes on the upper deck has been put on and off a dozen times to line up the pump cases, etc.  Now it's time for the upper deck beam arms and other details.  I thought I had mis-measured the length of the beam arms, so I put an extension on the end (visible on the end of the arm near the partners carling).  No need.  The original measurements allowed for the thickness of the bitts on the aft beam and the carlings on the mid beams.  They got sanded off. 

The order of the pieces is probably important from an ease of access issue.  I installed the arms, then went to work on the lodging knees between the beams and arms on the middle beam, then I'll fit the hanging knees and then move to the fore and aft beams.  The port side will be decked, so I may skip some of the ledges on that side.  All the arms and knees have simulated bolt heads, made with black monofilament line (thanks Ed Tosti).  Same on the upper mast carlings and partners, though I'm not sure they would have been that visible.  Artistic license. 

Maury

Edited October 6, 2014 by Maurys

[druxey]

Those beam arms look nice!

[tlevine]

Looking sweet, Maury.  What kind of fishing line did you use?

[Maury S]

Thanks for the comments.  The fishing line is black monofilament under the brand Amnesia.  I think it's the 20 lb test.  It measures at about .017" or about .81" diameter at 1:48 scale.   I bought it on Amazon.  Be careful, it comes in all sorts of glow in the dark colors.

Maury

[Maury S]

Adding pieces to the deck.  As the hanging knees on the mid-beam are now in, next items were the forward beam arms.  After they were dry, the lodging knees were added and lastly the forward deck beam installed.  Next come the remaining lodging and hanging knees.

Maury

[peewee]

Great work, definitely something to aspire to

[Maury S]

Look at Greg's pictures for inspiration!  I keep a picture pinned up in my workspace all the time.

Maury

[WackoWolf]

Excellent detail work, this is going to be a very nice build when done. Something to be proud of. Keep the pictures coming.