HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class

[AON]

all gun deck beams fitted (tack glued in place)

Working on the deck hook and eking (spelling?) pieces at the bow

then I'll mark the centerline and carling locations, pop them off and notch them.

[AON]

Been a couple weeks since I posted.

I had completed the deck hook in three pieces.

I marked all the carling locations and started removing the beams when I realized I hadn't made the three beam arms

Here my templates were laid over top.

The beam arms (pairs still rubber cemented together) are made and all stored with the beams in a box.

I must now cut the notches ... cleanly this time 

Oh, and I prepared stock for the carlings and ledges. I will also need to install the knees between the beams after they are re-installed.

 

I been preoccupied starting to make Christmas gifts in the shop.

Had to start early and have to be sneaky about it so no one accidentally sees their gift.

 

[AON]

It is difficult to get anything done on this build when the sun is out.

I have 10 of 26 beams notched.

I should have taken a photo of that process... will do the next time I set up outside on the patio.

Reassembled the three beams at the bow and dry fitted the arms so they could be notched for the carlings.

Progress is slow... but it is summer.

 

[Thukydides]

Those joints look really clean, great job.

[AON]

Thanks, but the question is can I do it again?

[druxey]

...and again.

[AON]

Just coming through the other side of a rather unseasonably cold week.

Below is my set up for cutting my notches.

One short timber sample of each size carling. I marked the centerline and  inside carling edges when originally mounted on the model. I didnt mark most outer edges.

Pencil and mini square to complete marking the locations. I use the sample pieces to locate the outer edge accurately and then draw my lines.

I use my vernier, set at 0.04"(2.5" at 1:64 scale), to scribe the depth into the top of the beam at each notch. If I overshoot my cut I will approach 3" depth which might be more accurate.

I use my 1/4" chisel to press in at the edge limits of the notch. My notches are mostly bevelled as opposed to proper square pockets of which I have some in the deck hook and beam arms.

I set the end of my beam against the dead stop (clamped block) so I do not need to hold the piece down by hand to keep it from sliding on the cutting matt. Slice in once from one side, turn it around, slice in the other side, use mini files to clean up, use mini chisels to re-sharpen the filed corners of the notch if they got rounded off.

Double check my notch width with the sample pieces.

Use my eraser to remove the pencil marks.

This works for me , and I find I am a bit steadier on this deck having had the orlop to practice on.

Below are the first group of beams installed.

Once they are all in I will fit and install the column posts, carlings, knees, ledgers and stairways.

 

[No Idea]

That really is lovely joinery  - getting joints that tight is a real skill 

[AON]

It's all wizardry!

[AON]

Pictures tell the story...

   

Arms installed. Now to get the other beams placed , then the columns then the ..... and the list goes on.

[druxey]

Oooh. Nicely fitted tabled joints, Alan! I didn't see that a couple were a little short, though....

[AON]

Thanks for not drawing attention to them! 

 

I am certain I can make them disappear with smoke and mirrors .... or a well placed deck plank. 

Edited September 6 by AON

[AON]

All main gun deck beams have been installed.

Working on making the support columns.

[AON]

I've noted that the columns seem to be referred to as pillars or stanchions, dependant on where you look.

The ones I installed below the Orlop deck were simple square sectioned.

These now being installed between the Orlop and Gun decks are square for the first and last 12" of their height and have the corners chamfered or bevelled in between.

The ones that will install on top of the Gun deck will be square sectioned for the first and last 12" and turned round in between with some steps creating a ball type shape at the top and bottom of this centre length.

 

I find that having measured the gap between decks is making the installation much quicker.

 

Edited September 6 by AON

[AON]

all columns installed

moving on to the next challenge

 

[AON]

I am making and installing my ledgers, lodging and hanging knees beginning at the bow and working aft.

I may need to install one upper deck beam to secure my bowsprit step.

Then as I work further there will be riding bits, capstans, grating and coamings and mast partners.

 

For something different to look at, I completed my gifts and I've decided to give them to my family members at our Thanksgiving dinner next month (3 weeks), not waiting for Christmas. The wood block is a cell phone amplifier for my son, the dog for my daughter, cat for my daughter-in-law and butterfly for my wife.

Hope the like them.

[druxey]

Nice gifts, Alan! Does the amplifier work well?

[AON]

Surprisingly it does kick it up a notch.

[AON]

Cutting and fitting the carlings. ledges, lodging and hanging knees is slow going.

Might have a lot to do with distractions!

 

As I work back I'll be adding some additional pieces.

Here you can see the foremast partner template I've just made. 

Hope to be cutting tomorrow as I already have the material sanded to thickness.

[druxey]

Looking good, Alan!

[TBlack]

Sorry to break up the build, but those gifts are a wonderful idea that your family will cherish. Butterfly is magnificent!

Tom

[AON]

NOTE: MY PARTNER IS WRONG AND WILL BE CORRECTED AFTER POST #1711

 

Some images from my making of the Gun Deck Foremast Partner

 

First is of all the various 10 pieces. I have a cork board I can pin pieces to.

I laid my plan on it, a layer of clear plastic over top and pinned my parts down onto it.

The plastic keeps the glue from sticking the part to the paper.

 

Then is the partner assembled and placed on the beams (dry fitted).

NOTE: MY KNEES ARE INSTALLED INCORRECTLY AND WILL BE CORRECTED AFTER POST #1711

Next a fitting in place with the lower foremast. It just slipped through with minimal clearance.

Problem being the forward part of the partner should be 1/16" or more back from the forward edge of the beam under it.

The bowsprit mast step needs clearance here.

I could sand it back. With the bowsprit mast step leaning backwards over it and the mast itself in place and two decks installed above I suppose no one will ever notice the slight "fix".

Or I could just do it over.

I'll let you know what I decide.

Edited October 5 by AON

[druxey]

It's always a problem when one tiny thing sets off a line of dominos.... One realises how interdependent so many things were on a ship. I'm sure you'll arrive at a suitable solution.

Bowsprit mast? Did you mean bowsprit?

[AON]

Yes.

It is a mast but not thought of as one.

 

[druxey]

True, but I never see folk refer to it that way!

[AON]

Well, here I am!!!  😁

[TBlack]

That you can figure out where all the dominoes go is a testament to your mental acuity. I’m in awe.

Tom

[AON]

Thanks Tom but I owe it to the masterful drawings in TFFM volumes that I copied from.

 

I sanded down the forward end of the partner, and after placing it and the bowsprit (mast) step I decided I could do better. By the time I do the partners on the weather decks I'll be a professional! The new stock is sanded to thickness, cut in half and rubber glued together. I'll rubber glue the templates on tomorrow and then cut the pieces out for assembly.

 

Let's hope I don't screw it up.

[Thukydides]

9 hours ago, AON said:

By the time I do the partners on the weather decks I'll be a professional!

That is always the problem. By the time I finish the model I sort of know what I am doing. Unfortunately too late to benefit the model...

[druxey]

But for the next model you do, Thukydides! It's amazing the problems one can avoid on a subsequent model. But there are new pitfalls and traps instead....

Edited October 3 by druxey