Sloup by Dee_Dee - Corel - 1:25

[captainbob]

It's a fine job on both the stern and bow.

 

Bob

[adivedog]

Great job Dee Dee.

 

When I was doing all my measuring at first, I was planning on 5mm width on planks, only to find out later on in the planking the widths varied and were usually less than 5mm. So adjusted as I went.

[Dee_Dee]

Jpett, Thanks for stopping by

 

Thanks for stopping by Adam. I do like the walnut, but the hull will be painted.  What I really like about the walnut are the nice sharp edges. 

 

Thanks Cap'n'Bob.  I really appreciate your taking an interest in my build.

 

John, I use the fan method, but take it a step farther.  After I mark off the frame, I calculate the with of each plank at each bulkhead, bow and transom.  In post #39 I posted a copy of my measurement plan.  This way, I could custom fit each plank to make sure I stay on target with the tick marks.  With 18 planks, if each plank was a quarter millimeter (0.25mm) too wide, that adds up to 4.5mm's or one plank.  In post #45, is a photo of plank #17, shaped and edge bending.   

 

And THANK YOU to all who hit the like button

 

Dee Dee

 

Edited to correct 'Adam' to 'John'

Edited September 17, 2014 by Dee_Dee

[Dee_Dee]

Again, the obvious is I should have done more prep work back on page one:  Drop the cockpit floor height, build up the mast step, the bow stem, framing for the wells and more.   Oh well, but I'm learning and having fun. 

 

It was a puzzle, trying to figure out what to do first, but slowly I figured it out.

 

After removing the balance of the false deck, I removed most of the 6th bulkhead and the keel between the 6th and 7th bulkhead.  Added outer framing on all four sides.  The mast thwart is 12" wide, that's too wide, so I added an extra 6" of framing and built out the foredeck.  Since the hull is single planked and a few spots are a bit thin, I add some epoxy for strength (OK, I added A LOT of epoxy.....)

 

 

Before the side framing was glued, I cut a notch for the thwart.  

 

This first section of planks will be cut in half, at the thwart and permanently glued, still need to drill a hole for the mast.  Three short planks will be cut and fitted.  In post #2, in the 6th photo, you can see these short planks.  

 

Next up, i made 20 floor planks, only needed 14.  I'll use 3 planks when I cut down the center plank and the other 3 will be for 'just in case', as in just in case if I / when I loose one or two.............

Next, need to make the planks that will fit on each side. 

 

These side pieces were an adventure to make!  These will be permanently glued, which isn't quite right, but that's the way it is.........

 

Finally, all of the floor boards in place! It's a real tight fit and they easily pop out, so will need to reduce each very, very slightly.  

 

 

Before I glue in the end pieces or do anything else, I first need to decide if I should do some painting first. 

This took a month to figure out and make all the pieces, but I'm happy with it and again, I learned a lot!

 

 

As always, thanks for stopping by, I appreciate your interest in my build.  

 

Dee Dee

[JesseLee]

That's a strong hull now! 

[GuntherMT]

Went back and looked at your planking on the 3rd page, as I had skipped through that fairly fast when I first started following this log (there are just so many logs and so little time!).  Wow, what an amazingly patient and analytical approach, but it turned out great!  I'll have to re-read this a few times when I tackle my next project's planking.

[egkb]

You seem to have cornered the Epoxy Market there Dee_Dee   I was wondering why the price of the stuff had suddenly shot up.. 

 

Looking the Absolute Business by the way!

 

Stay Well

 

Eamonn

[Jack Panzeca]

Hi Dee Dee,

 

Sorry about the rework.  It is satisfying when it's finished.  The wet well is certainly water tight.  I love your work.

[captainbob]

Nice rework.  When I started drafting I was told “Buy the best eraser you can. Because you will erase twice as many lines as you draw.”  Now I seem to redo twice as much as I build.

 

Bob

[Dee_Dee]

Jesse,

Thanks for stopping by.  The design of the hull itself is very strong, but that 'puddle of epoxy' makes it lethal weapon!  Your Scottish Maid is looking fine!  I like your clothes pin solution for serving the lines, hope you don't mind if I borrow it!     

 

Eamonn

It's always nice to have you stop by.   Ha Ha!  I stocked up on epoxy and I still ran out!  Go figure!  Looking forward to seeing your mast.  I do a little bit of sanding in the house, but making a mast gets a bit messy, to I'm thinking I should start thinking about making my mast in the next few weeks, before it gets cold outside.    

 

Jack! 

Thanks for stopping by!  Shortly after I started building my coquillier, I read an article that inspired me to add the well feature.  So, this really isn't rework, rather, insufficient research before I started the build.  Maybe I should start researching info on my next build - if only I could decide what I want to build next.....

 

Cap'n'Bob  

Thanks for stopping by!  Our Drafters who worked on the large commercial units used electric erasers.  I've been working on the plan for the next few parts and I'm on my 3rd or 4th edition.....  

 

Brian,

I started planking with the tick method, but found it easier and quicker if I knew how wide each plank needed to be at each bulkhead, bow/transom.  With 18 planks on each side, if each plank was just a mere 0.25mm too wide, that totals up to 4.5mm or one plank.  In post #39, you can see the measurements.  The bow started off at 2.36mm, the last couple of planks were 2.10mm.  I remeasured with 8 planks, 4 planks and 2 plans to go.  Here's a photo of plank #17, just needs to be beveled and it's ready to be installed. 

 

Thanks to all who stopped by and all that hit the like button.  Off on another business trip, be back sometime next week. 

 

As always, thanks for stopping by, your comments and suggestions are always appreciated 

 

Dee Dee

[JesseLee]

I don't mind at all Dee Dee. That's what is so great about MSW. Sharing & learning from each other.

[NAZGÛL]

Nice project! Good work.

 

 

/Matti

[Dee_Dee]

Finally!  I reached the next target point in my coquillier build - All decking installed. To get here, I made a list of every little detail for the deck / floor planking, face planking and more.  It was sort of anal with 38 line items, but once I started working on the list, the work flowed smoothly.  

 

In the end, I got the effect I was looking for and I'm happy!    

 

It would have been easier to 'fake' the fish well planking details.  But it was worth the time and effort to add detail.  Now, when someone asks me about the couquillier, I can do a 'show and tell' about the story of the couquillier.   Plus, I learned a lot of little build details that will carry forward to future builds. It was worth the time spent!  An 8" / 8mm thwart above the seam will partially hide the gap.  The cockpit floor boards were finished with a gray paint wash.

 

It only took a few days to loose one of the plank, specifically, the starboard side curved plank!  That was way too easy to loose, so I made a few changes:  The curved planks are glued to the bulkheads.  The 7 loose planks on each side are now glued together.  Instead of the 3 short loose planks aft of the mast, I scored a line to give the impression of the 3 loose planks.  

 

Don't tell anyone that this (false) seam is in the wrong place.  When all of the boards are in place, no one will know!   

 

The height of the transom was increased by 4".  This might be a bit too high, I'll decide after I add the cap rail.  I left the excess width on the transom to protect the planking from eroding away.  It will be removed when the cap rail is added.  The opening for the tiller will be added when I install the rudder. Most couquilliers have storage under the fore and aft deck accessible through doors.  I'll add cleats and hinges to define the two aft deck doors.   

 

I scraped down the foredeck planking a bit too much and lost some planking definition - lesson learned.  The red paint is intentionally uneven - it's a work boat!  Since the foredeck was extended, a few adjustments are needed for the mast thwart and trim.  That little blue strip near the bow stem is an example of the waterway, it will be painted before installing.  

 

Next up is all of the interior planking, waterway, false frames, thwart knee, mast thwart and a few more parts that are shown in the photos of the Shepherdess of Domrémy

 

As always, I appreciate the time you have taken to stop by to read my build log.  Your feedback or suggestions are welcome.

 

Dee Dee

[captainbob]

Nice work, Dee Dee.  I like the way you finished the decks.

 

Bob

[themadchemist]

I agree that grey wash gives the deck that worked on feel. Nice Progress!

 

Have you considered using washes on the painted areas also? This is going to be another interesting build to watch as the fine detail work gets going.

 

...and as and "anal"ytical chemist, 38 items doesn't seem enough for a list    

[egkb]

Looking Very Special D.  Wouldn't for a second dream of mentioning the 'Shhhhh Moment' of the seam      (have a few Shhhhhhhhhh moments myself.. move along, nothing to see here...    )

The Grey Wash on the deck is a fantastic bit of detail..

 

As always a pleasure to read your updates.

 

All The Very Best

 

Eamonn

[Dee_Dee]

Bob, thanks for stopping by!  Painting still scares me, so I've been doing lots of sample planks.  The photo below shows the hull planking details and that is one of my goals.  

 

Eamonn!  Thanks for stopping by!  I'm looking forward to reading about your holiday to Venice!    

 

Keith, Thanks for stopping by!  In the close up photo of the aft deck you can see some faint hazy gray spots down near the cockpit floor and near the transom.  The foredeck red paint in the photo is a bit misleading; the paint is actually a bit uneven in coverage.  Some weathering will be added to the fore and aft deck (and maybe even the cockpit decking) using dark and light gray.   

Funny you mentioned details.  I spent Friday looking for photos with details.  That's what I love about this build!!  I've found lots of photos with details, details and more details!  Did I mention I found lots of photos with lots of details!?!  This one photo has nine (9) details that I'm planning to add to the build - and this is just ONE of many photos!  

 

I'm working on the detailed 'to do list' for all of the interior planking and making changes based on the photos I've found.  What really makes this fun, is my build is based on a living, working boat!

 

Thanks for stopping by!

 

Dee Dee   

 

Edited October 26, 2021 by Dee_Dee

[egkb]

Hey There D.   That's a lovely photo of the design, am loving your method of making 'Notes'   mine are scratched onto any stray bit of paper I can find.. then invariably lost 

 

Re Venice.. Absolutely fantastic place .. You hear people say this all the time, suffice it to say it doesn't do the place justice !  I don't recommend 'Jay Walking'  even though there are few (if any) cars   

 

E

[Redbeard]

Nice work Dee Dee!

[Dee_Dee]

Hey Eamonn!  Thanks for stopping by!  What I love most about this build is the abundance of photos of actual boats I've found online.  As for notes, I'm a big fan of post-it notes, write it down and slap it on the wall!   "Don't recommend 'Jay Walking' in Venice."  Where's Monty Python when you need him.....

 

John / Redbeard!  Thanks for stopping by.      

 

Josh!  The gray paint wash looks good, but it definitely needs more depth of color and texture.  'Weather It' is supposed to give the wood a deep silver gray look, which is what I was looking for!  I definitely need to pick up a bottle of this stuff and experiment!  Thanks for sharing!   

 

It's been almost a month since my last build update and I finally completed the interior planking.  Just need a day with a little bit of sun so I can take some photos. 

 

And THANK YOU to all who hit the 'like' button!  

 

Dee Dee  

Edited October 26, 2021 by Dee_Dee

[Dee_Dee]

I've made some progress......  finally!

In post #22, I made adjustments and increased the height of the hull, but it was not enough, so I increased the hull height by another 1/16".   This interior planking is closer to the SoD than the kit.  Since I didn't drop the height of the cockpit floor, I made a couple of adjustments, to give the hull the appearance of being higher.  

 

When I extended the length of the foredeck, I forgot to take into consideration the spacing of the false frames.  But all is well as the spacing in the cockpit worked out almost perfectly.  I was lucky this time!   

 

The main thwart covers the seam in the cockpit planking.  The top of the thwart still needs to be painted.   

 

Waterways are not part of the kit, but they are a nice bit of detail.  On the foredeck, the added height helped with the visibility of the false frames.  Still need to add one more inner planking board, the cap rail and splash water.  But with the added height, I now need to increase the height of the bow stem so I'll have room for the iron band for the bowsprit. 

 

The mast thwart, knees and splash board are courtesy of Starbucks coffee stir sticks.  The port side knee turned out fabulous, the starboard side not so well and needs a drop of filler.  I added the knees after the thwart was installed.  In hindsight, I should have made the knees with the thwart and installed them as one unit.  The splash board will be reduced in height.

 

Frames on the transom are a bit uneven, but once I add more parts, it should be less noticeable 

 

Next up is adding the cap rail  The cap rail will sit on a base of four layers of planking / framing that is 3/16" wide.  I'll also start working on the rudder. 

 

Thanks for stopping by.  Your thoughts, questions and comments are welcome.

 

Have a great weekend! 

 

Dee Dee

Edited October 26, 2021 by Dee_Dee

[themadchemist]

Starbuck knees, now I've seen everything.

So is this now a Coffequillier, or would that be Cafe'quillier... 

 

Nice updates and work Dee Dee. She looking Awesome.

[egkb]

Dang D.. that thing looks REAL !  Beautiful Work (as usual)

 

That little extra height is brilliant too. 

 

All The Best

 

Eamonn

[captainbob]

She's really coming along.  Very nice.

 

Bob

[Dee_Dee]

This update is a bit overdue.  I've been waiting over two weeks for a sunny day to take photos. The last sunny day was three weeks ago, lasted about 30 minutes and I was on my way to a race.  The next forecast for sun is next Sunday - SURPRISE!  We had sun this morning!  SURPRISE!  My camera pooped out this morning while taking photos!  The mirror got hung up while taking photos and I'm getting error message.  I can't complain, I've been using this camera a lot for eight years, took well over 100,000 photos and never a problem.  But I did get a few good pics before it pooped out and also took some with my little point and shoot to finally do this update! 

Bye - Bye Mr. Sun!  Hope to see you again soon!

~~~~

 

Cap rail are done!  After I added the last interior plank, I used an 8" hardwood sanding plank to get a smooth, even and level (glue) surface for the cap rails to sit on.  To understand all the pieces of this puzzle, I made a 'mock up' cap rail with coffee stir sticks and figured out the angles at the transom and bow.  I added the cap rail, starting at the transom and worked my way to the bow stem, five sections per side with butt joints and it's done!    Phew!  Only two of the eight butt joints are slightly visible.  Going forward, I want / need to learn how to do scarph joints.

 

 

The bow stem is a wee bit on the short side, as in 'non existing', so I need to add some height to it.  I like these bow bitts, but I'm thinking they are a bit too tall.  The good news is I'm thinking they're tall enough to lop off a few inches and they will still look right.  There will be just enough room for the bowsprit and it will look good. 

 

Way back I added 4" to the height of the transom and thought I would need to remove 2".  With the cap rail added, it's just barely enough.  Still need to make the square opening for the tiller.  

 

In the last update I added the mast thwart and knees. The splash board was sanded down to height and added knees.  All but one of the kit metal cleats have been replaced with wood cleats of various types or belaying pins.     

The hull is only 3mm thick, not enough for the deadeye strop nails to hold onto.  Since I don't want the ends of the nails poking through, I'm thinking about going to order some scale hardware nuts and bolts for the strops and hull struts.  Blackened / painted, these will blend in very nicely.  

 

Painting is a necessary evil and I'm learning.  Preparation is key, I'm using gesso as a prep.  I'm getting nice results.  While making the rudder, do make sure it had an even bevel, I decided to give it a coat of the black paint.  And while I was at it, add some paint to the lower part of the hull, to get an idea how it was going to look.  I used the canned spray paint I've used twice before with excellent results.  The next morning the paint was gummy, like a heavy coat of crayon.  Ickky!  So that all had to be scrapped off and then cleaned to remove residue.  It was a mess!  

 

It seems like the more small parts I do, the more small parts there are to do!  The rudder is almost done, need to install the rudder and open up the transom so I can get the right height on the rudder for the tiller.  Then there's the belaying pins, hull struts, bow sprit and a few other parts.   

 

As always, thanks for stopping by.  Your suggestions are always welcome.  

 

Dee Dee

 

Wishing you and yours Happy Holidays.

 

 

(Edited to change photos to smaller sized photos)

Edited October 26, 2021 by Dee_Dee

[egkb]

Great update D.. Said it before will say it again.. 'That dang boat looks real' !! 

 

Now what's this 'SUN' thing you keep referring to??       

 

From Overcast Ireland

 

Eamonn

 

PS Hope you have a blast over the Holidays !

[Dee_Dee]

My build is moving along at a glacial pace.  Primarily because I take my time to think things through and figure out how it's all going to fit together.  As I gain experience, maybe my pace will approach the speed of grass growing.  

~~~~~~~~~~~

The hull is painted!  I really don't like painting, but it's a skill I need to learn.  Paint will either showcase your planking or hide your planking.  I like the way my planking turned out, so I want to be able to see planking through the paint.     

 

 

 

Back in post #52 I lopped off a bit of the hull / keel so I could add a stern post.  It was a scary move, but I had thought it through and this is how it turned out!  I like it.     

 

Figuring out how to build the rudder / tiller and when to add the hardware took some time.  The tiller is removable so the rudder can be installed.      

 

 

Before I could add the bowsprit, I had to build up the bow stem.  This is another item that should have been done on page one.  I did my best and it's a bit off.  But with the bowsprit, it's not as visible.  I couldn't find the walnut square that I was planning to use for the bowsprit, so I glued up a blank from four pieces.  The bowsprit is supposed to be unpainted, but decided to paint it to hide the glue seams.  The aft most section is square and rests on the bow thwart between two stops.  These two stops were a pain.  The first wood I used didn't like to be glued and broke off AFTER I finished retouching the paint!  

 

 

I keep on finding more and more little detailed parts that need to be added.  My rolling TO DO list has 25 items and none are related to the rigging!  The kit rigging is overly simplified using only single blocks.  On the Shepherdess from Domremy, half of the blocks are double blocks and I think there's one or two triple blocks.  So, I need to draw / diagram the actual rigging plan and determine how many blocks and how much line I'll need and order from Syren. 

 

As always, thanks for stopping by.

 

Dee Dee

 

(Edited to fix photos)

Edited February 15, 2015 by Dee_Dee

[captainbob]

As long as you turn out work like this I don't care how slow you work.

 

Bob

[egkb]

Jeez Dee_Dee that looks special..  The planking does indeed show through nicely !

 

Quick Question.. How did you do the wee rudder Gudgeons & Pintles? They are the Biz!!

 

All TheBest

 

Eamonn

 

PS I'm off to throw my Ballahoo in the bin after looking at your work !!    Thanks for that.. 

[Dee_Dee]

Bob,

Thank you Bob.  I spend a lot of time reading build logs, they contain a fountain of information.  At times it's frustrating that I'm not progressing faster, but ah yes Grasshopper.............

 

Eamon,

I love your Ballahoo!  So step away from the bin..........

These gudgeons and pintles were made different from the prints.  The kit came with a sheet of photo etched parts.  The sheet of brass is 0.32mm / 0.0130" thick.

 

This is how the prints wants the P& G's made - NOT! going to happen

 

I saw on another build log, where instead of making the 'loop' in the middle, the builder soldered on a piece of brass tubing.  The key was to make sure the tubing was 90* to the strip, so I used a log piece of tubing and a lot of tape.  This photo is a mock up (with oversized tubing / strip) on how I set up the soldering.  The example I saw used silver / hard solder.  I used an iron and put down a big GLOB of solder to make sure I had a good bond.  

 

I used brass tubing with an OD of 1.57mm / 0.620".   After soldering, I cleaned up the excess with files and they turned out like this.  (The one on the right needs a bit more filing / cleaning up.)

EDIT:  I did a bit more filing / clean up to the 3rd set of  P & G's and I've added another photo to show how these cleaned up. 

One of my favorite build logs to follow is Ed's / Edt's 'Young America' scratch build.  Ed's work is stunning.  The day after I posted this info, Ed posted a similar way to make the P & G's.  Check out Ed's post here:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3453-young-america-by-edt-extreme-clipper-1853/page-79#entry281895

 

Here is the original photo of the 3rd set of P & G's

Here are the P & G's after being cleaned up

 

For the 'pin' I used brass rod that measured 0.80mm / 0.320", it's a perfect fit with the tubing and I glued it in with thick CA glue.

 

The head on all of the nails I have are too big to use and look clunky.  Instead, I use 'Silk pins', specialty pins made specifically for sewing with silk.  The pin shaft and head are almost 20% smaller look much better.

Brass Kit nails head size      1.60mm

"Silk pins" head size             1.30mm

 

I glued the g's onto the rudder / stern post first and then I added the nails.  Most of the nails were very short and I lost a lot of them!  

 

Again, thanks for stopping by and the 'likes'.

 

Dee Dee

 

Edited 1/29/30 to change out and add photos, see info added in blue.

Edited January 30, 2015 by Dee_Dee