HMS Victory by robipod - Caldercraft - 1805 version - first build

[robipod]

I hope the both fronts are a bit better than this Ian! Oops... my Sunday evening break from a database. LOL dahhhh

 

 

 

[robipod]

Got the two inserts in by doing this.

 

 

 

[robipod]

Bit more. Pulling together the forecastle beam assembly. Dry fitting here. Will likely do final sometime this week. Found this Vallejo liquid copper and used on the belfry assembly. Not bad. Did four coats of primer then three of the liquid copper. Dissolved one of my brushes in the alcohol that is required for clean up if using the liquid copper. 

[Seventynet]

Thanks for these tips Rob, they'll come in handy one day...Looking really good!

 

Ian

[robipod]

Am positive there is a giant vacuum cleaner inside! Took the cover off for ten minutes. LOL

 

 

Edited February 7, 2017 by robipod

[robipod]

Slowly, but it is interesting how relatively quickly this deck is going. I've not spent that much time. Again, just shows me half hour here and there keeps the elements going into place. (messed around with the green backdrop for a diversion tonight ) There's some flash 'burn' on the forecastle deck and a green tinge from the backdrop that I have way to close so I can chroma key in the ocean) Must note that the kevels are just sitting on the deck for the moment - not mounted)

 

Edited February 14, 2017 by robipod

[dafi]

Nive build. Love the test-scan for the etch, great for early test-fitting!

 

For the vacuum staircases and other black holes - also gunports - I also use some cotton. Just get a very fluffy quantity into the opening and also dust stays out :-)

 

XXXDAn

[pompey2]

Rob

 

Love the idea of printing the brass ornamentation, makes sure you can prepare beforehand.

Keep up the good work

 

Nick

[robipod]

Continuing the main deck. Snowboarding is getting in the way.

 

[rshousha]

Hi Rob,

 

Glad to know you're snowboarding. We're on hard ice these days but expecting a good snowfall this week. 

 

Cheers, 

 

Rick 

 

[Richardjjs]

On ‎26‎/‎05‎/‎2013 at 7:10 AM, robipod said:

"The Victory's copper is laid in two belts, the upper belt having twelve strakes and over lapping the lower belt" is from Longridge in his The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships. Most models I see here do not appear to have the twelve strakes at the top. most are one or two. If you have the book, the pull out drawing on page 36 shows this pattern. Am tempted to measure the distance from the waterline to keel and divide by the width of the Jotika supplied tiles to see if I should be starting the top twelve rows and work down while working from the keel at the stern up. It would appear that the twelve rows from the waterline down should be completed before the keel up is done. (does this make any sense?)

 

Have you overlapped the tiles?  In his book, Longridge states "On naval ships the upper edge of a lower strake overlapped the lower edge of the strake above it." I am not sure that I've seen the tiles overlapped. Is it an optical illusion or has everyone overlapped the tiles in the manner suggested by Longridge? 

 

Copper was laid from the stern first so the one in "front" of it overlapped the one behined it (This stopped the forward motion of ship ripping the plate of)
And as you say the upper edge over lapped the lower edge of the plate below it>
Most models I have seen just lay the plates next to each other
Similarly many models show 2 bit planking which is not correct.

 

On ‎26‎/‎05‎/‎2013 at 7:10 AM, robipod said:

"The Victory's copper is laid in two belts, the upper belt having twelve strakes and over lapping the lower belt" is from Longridge in his The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships. Most models I see here do not appear to have the twelve strakes at the top. most are one or two. If you have the book, the pull out drawing on page 36 shows this pattern. Am tempted to measure the distance from the waterline to keel and divide by the width of the Jotika supplied tiles to see if I should be starting the top twelve rows and work down while working from the keel at the stern up. It would appear that the twelve rows from the waterline down should be completed before the keel up is done. (does this make any sense?)

 

Have you overlapped the tiles?  In his book, Longridge states "On naval ships the upper edge of a lower strake overlapped the lower edge of the strake above it." I am not sure that I've seen the tiles overlapped. Is it an optical illusion or has everyone overlapped the tiles in the manner suggested by Longridge? 

 

 

[Richardjjs]

On ‎25‎/‎02‎/‎2013 at 5:56 AM, robipod said:

On ‎25‎/‎02‎/‎2013 at 5:56 AM, robipod said:

That took care of the pictures and books. I’ve now gone through the images and stored over 1400 to use on my build. My attention then turned on how to use the photos and catalogue them.  My solution was to take the plans of the decks and scan into images along with a side view.  I linked images to their points on the decks, masts, bow, stern, and sides using CorelDraw (Adobe Illustrator will do as well).  Decided to colour code my links, green being a view “straight on at that point” and blue being looking up, red is a general view in a particular direction. Arrows indicate the direction of the view. I hope to be able to use this during the final phase of the rigging and deck detail. 

Here is a sample of the poop and quarter decks and masts. When I click on one of my links the image comes up in my case with the Microsoft Picture Viewer.

 

 

 

 

I haven’t used all the images in this reference but enough that I can make a quick click and see any part of the outer hull or decks at just about any location. 

 

Of course the next was to order the kit. I decided to order from Rick Sousha, from The Modeler’s Workshop in Montreal. Rick is the official distributor of Jotika models for Canada and I have been totally satisfied with his service. He is a great person to deal with and I know he sends orders all over North America.

Rick ordered the kit from Jotika and it took about six weeks to arrive. Jotika did not have any in stop so I had to wait until they built a few new kits. I was actually pleased with this because I knew that my kit was ‘fresh’ from the factory. The day it arrived the postal carrier was very pleased that I came out to help her carry it to the door. As everyone indicates on their reviews, it is a big and heavy package.

I concluded from other accounts that counting the items was very important when the model arrived. It took a couple days and I did find one item missing from ‘extras’ that I had ordered. That was solved by a local supplier so I was off to the building stage.

The kit is awesome and I am truly impressed. It goes together like the plans suggest. What I want to show you at this stage are the modifications I decided to build into the model before I mounted the gun patterns on the sides.

I was a bit torn by the two lower gun decks being outfitted with cannon dummy barrels and decided to try to something different. Initially phoned Jotika and talked about putting guns in with carriages etc. but found out they do not produce the scaled carriages for the 24 and 12 pdr guns. The plans suggest painting the dummy barrel strips and the area inside a matte black. Not much will be seen once the gun port lids and openings have been completed so painting the area black made sense.

But, not for me – no black paint. Decided to try to ‘fake’ the interior by mounting an image of a gun carriage and the inside of the gun deck onto the dummy barrel strips. As there will be very little of the interior showing it was full computer imaging ahead. I know all the purists will not be pleased with this but, what the heck. It’s my model and I’m really having a blast putting these extras into play.

I also decided that the gun decks should have flickering LED lamps  . I must also thank Pompey (another MSW member) for his assistance. You can see Pompey’s lighting solutions for HMS Victory on this build at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2415-hms-victory-by-pompey-caldercraft-172-1805/

 

On ‎25‎/‎02‎/‎2013 at 5:56 AM, robipod said:

That took care of the pictures and books. I’ve now gone through the images and stored over 1400 to use on my build. My attention then turned on how to use the photos and catalogue them.  My solution was to take the plans of the decks and scan into images along with a side view.  I linked images to their points on the decks, masts, bow, stern, and sides using CorelDraw (Adobe Illustrator will do as well).  Decided to colour code my links, green being a view “straight on at that point” and blue being looking up, red is a general view in a particular direction. Arrows indicate the direction of the view. I hope to be able to use this during the final phase of the rigging and deck detail. 

Here is a sample of the poop and quarter decks and masts. When I click on one of my links the image comes up in my case with the Microsoft Picture Viewer.

 

 

 

 

I haven’t used all the images in this reference but enough that I can make a quick click and see any part of the outer hull or decks at just about any location. 

 

Of course the next was to order the kit. I decided to order from Rick Sousha, from The Modeler’s Workshop in Montreal. Rick is the official distributor of Jotika models for Canada and I have been totally satisfied with his service. He is a great person to deal with and I know he sends orders all over North America.

Rick ordered the kit from Jotika and it took about six weeks to arrive. Jotika did not have any in stop so I had to wait until they built a few new kits. I was actually pleased with this because I knew that my kit was ‘fresh’ from the factory. The day it arrived the postal carrier was very pleased that I came out to help her carry it to the door. As everyone indicates on their reviews, it is a big and heavy package.

I concluded from other accounts that counting the items was very important when the model arrived. It took a couple days and I did find one item missing from ‘extras’ that I had ordered. That was solved by a local supplier so I was off to the building stage.

The kit is awesome and I am truly impressed. It goes together like the plans suggest. What I want to show you at this stage are the modifications I decided to build into the model before I mounted the gun patterns on the sides.

I was a bit torn by the two lower gun decks being outfitted with cannon dummy barrels and decided to try to something different. Initially phoned Jotika and talked about putting guns in with carriages etc. but found out they do not produce the scaled carriages for the 24 and 12 pdr guns. The plans suggest painting the dummy barrel strips and the area inside a matte black. Not much will be seen once the gun port lids and openings have been completed so painting the area black made sense.

But, not for me – no black paint. Decided to try to ‘fake’ the interior by mounting an image of a gun carriage and the inside of the gun deck onto the dummy barrel strips. As there will be very little of the interior showing it was full computer imaging ahead. I know all the purists will not be pleased with this but, what the heck. It’s my model and I’m really having a blast putting these extras into play.

I also decided that the gun decks should have flickering LED lamps  . I must also thank Pompey (another MSW member) for his assistance. You can see Pompey’s lighting solutions for HMS Victory on this build at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2415-hms-victory-by-pompey-caldercraft-172-1805/

 

That took care of the pictures and books. I’ve now gone through the images and stored over 1400 to use on my build. My attention then turned on how to use the photos and catalogue them.  My solution was to take the plans of the decks and scan into images along with a side view.  I linked images to their points on the decks, masts, bow, stern, and sides using CorelDraw (Adobe Illustrator will do as well).  Decided to colour code my links, green being a view “straight on at that point” and blue being looking up, red is a general view in a particular direction. Arrows indicate the direction of the view. I hope to be able to use this during the final phase of the rigging and deck detail. 

Here is a sample of the poop and quarter decks and masts. When I click on one of my links the image comes up in my case with the Microsoft Picture Viewer.

 

 

 

 

I haven’t used all the images in this reference but enough that I can make a quick click and see any part of the outer hull or decks at just about any location. 

 

Of course the next was to order the kit. I decided to order from Rick Sousha, from The Modeler’s Workshop in Montreal. Rick is the official distributor of Jotika models for Canada and I have been totally satisfied with his service. He is a great person to deal with and I know he sends orders all over North America.

Rick ordered the kit from Jotika and it took about six weeks to arrive. Jotika did not have any in stop so I had to wait until they built a few new kits. I was actually pleased with this because I knew that my kit was ‘fresh’ from the factory. The day it arrived the postal carrier was very pleased that I came out to help her carry it to the door. As everyone indicates on their reviews, it is a big and heavy package.

I concluded from other accounts that counting the items was very important when the model arrived. It took a couple days and I did find one item missing from ‘extras’ that I had ordered. That was solved by a local supplier so I was off to the building stage.

The kit is awesome and I am truly impressed. It goes together like the plans suggest. What I want to show you at this stage are the modifications I decided to build into the model before I mounted the gun patterns on the sides.

I was a bit torn by the two lower gun decks being outfitted with cannon dummy barrels and decided to try to something different. Initially phoned Jotika and talked about putting guns in with carriages etc. but found out they do not produce the scaled carriages for the 24 and 12 pdr guns. The plans suggest painting the dummy barrel strips and the area inside a matte black. Not much will be seen once the gun port lids and openings have been completed so painting the area black made sense.

But, not for me – no black paint. Decided to try to ‘fake’ the interior by mounting an image of a gun carriage and the inside of the gun deck onto the dummy barrel strips. As there will be very little of the interior showing it was full computer imaging ahead. I know all the purists will not be pleased with this but, what the heck. It’s my model and I’m really having a blast putting these extras into play.

I also decided that the gun decks should have flickering LED lamps  . I must also thank Pompey (another MSW member) for his assistance. You can see Pompey’s lighting solutions for HMS Victory on this build at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2415-hms-victory-by-pompey-caldercraft-172-1805/

 

Yes is a total weight of 15kg butthere is about 2 kg of waste on the frames.
Maybe they should remove the frames on export kits but it does ensure there is no damage.Also you know if any parts are missing

[robipod]

I don't know why my early posts were recopied. A bit confused. However, 1st part of the project I've been on is done that's been keeping me really busy for last 8 months.  Looking at the cannons today. Ordered some blackening liquid but was totally disappointed in it. Tried to get Blacken-It but a supplier said it is no longer available. So after a couple evenings of liquid diet for the brass I gave up.

Used the Tamiya fine surface primer for plastic and metal - the white coat. Then used Testors spray enamel - black for the coat. I think they turned out okay. Way easier than dipping etc. Now, should I use a clear enamel to 'seal' the cannons or are they already sealed. Hmmmm...

 

[robipod]

Still at it. Bit more time available. Have two more carriages to build and then rigging the cannons begins. Am still amazed how just plodding along eventually results the big changes on the deck. Finally got the time to have coffee with Ian. He will eventually get back to his Victory.

 

 

[Seventynet]

Looking good Rob! Eventually is the key word.

[robipod]

Oh my gosh... there are too many "FINISHED" and I'm just plugging away. Been taking a bit of time to get on the ship. It's been so hectic this past two years and another year and a half to go.

Here's where I'm at. Working on the upper deck. Had fun with the flag locker and the flags. Printed flags on the inkjet fabric sheets by Jackquard (got them at Michael's). Sprayed the back with a cloth glue. Not much and then cut them out. Rolled them on a piece of wire. Them stuffed them in the flag locker.

Hmmm. Now how do I preview this? Don't know the new site. LOL

Since I don't know how to preview I just copied the files into the 'drag files' area. Let's see if it worked.

There I am. Had a great visit with Ian a while ago. We better do this coffee thing again soon. I'm going to get really busy in the next week for month or so.

I am now editing. The pictures have to be loaded last first. Now I know. that was easy, I just deleted and dragged them up in order... cool!

 

 

 

Edited May 28, 2018 by robipod

[Seventynet]

Hi Rob,

 

This is looking really good! Ingenious flag locker. I am glad to see that you can squeeze some time into the Vic while working that job. Good on ya. I’ll email you to do the coffee thing.

 

best,

ian

[robipod]

Did a bit more .

Too much is getting in the way for the ship. LOL... Do you think there is anyone else in Calgary who would like to have coffee with us. We have a model ship world sub-group of two! LOL

Just finished messing with the beakhead bulkhead decoration. Even have them mounted -- have to drill one more hole in a roundhouse.  Have so much more detail to finish up on the deck though. Getting there ever so slowly!

 

[Kevin]

Rob lovely work, 

mine is presently on hold and has been for nearly two years, whilst i finished the 1/200 Bismarck and have spent the last year on my HMS Fife build, but she is safe and ready to come out of storage at short notice, my main reason for stopping was that i want to fit stun sails, and therfore i need about another 9 inches either side to accommodate them, space i just dont have at present

 

sorry i cannot make your coffee club

[robipod]

Well, I'm back.

The three year project is over. It took three and a half years. The hardest part was getting back into the build. I just couldn't seem to get anything done. Started on the caronades and had all sorts of problems sorting things out. Finding things. And more importantly getting the mind into it. Remodeled the shipyard and now have my own stadium lighting. (Ikea had a sale).

Been working on the bow and stern. I find that doing one project at the bow and then switching to the stern helped with getting into the tedious and repetitive nature of building these. Starting plugging away about a month and a half ago. Got some done and thankfully called Ian and we had a meeting of the shippers.

So here is my stadium lighting. This new layout is good but i find it a bit strange. LOL

Drag my pictures. Cool

Okay now what.

Guess no text between images.

Nothing stunning. Just picking away. Actually working on the water buckets at the moment.

Guess i just do Submit. LOL!

 

 

 

[mort stoll]

welcome home sailor. you were missed. welcome home.

 

mort

[Seventynet]

Good to see you back in the bosun’s chair! Lovely work, please keep it up.

Ian

[spars]

I started the kit. It was costly. Caring for my handicapped child put a stop to the build. Now I am ready to proceed. If I said I was confident I would be lying. So, I look here and on You Tube for information.

[rkwz]

Fantastic build!

 

Looking forward to more updates 

[spars]

Remembering the contribution you Aussies made to WWII. I will try to post as I can. Not certain how to post pics. I will however post my MISTAKES as they are the real education.

[stupot]

On 3/26/2013 at 1:53 AM, robipod said:

Mort... thanks for the idea... I tried the green painter tape from Home Depot too. Didn't seem to work all that well in my testing stage, but I am using it to fix up the electrical tape effort. Is there a difference between the blue and green?  I read somewhere, am thinking Gii's post, that he used a 'plastic-type' tape. Will take a look at it too.

For future use, try Tamira masking tape, which I've used with great results, especially on model railroad rolling stock in the past. IMHO auto-shop tape is too thick & blue tape does not stick to itself, as for green (Frog Tape), that's a load of 'carp'.