ancre Le Colibri 1808 by Fam - scale 1:48 - POB French brick de 24

[Fam]

Thank you all, I really appreciate!

Treenailing... treenailing... I calculated something like 21x50 treenails for the entire deck... makes about 1000+ nails, not too much! 300 done, 700 to go but I'm now on a short visit to my parents-in-law, far from home, so shipyard is temporarily closed until Monday

Cheers

Fam

[Fam]

May 15^th, 2015

 

Hi all

lot of work but so little to show...!

I’ve completed the weather deck treenailing, sanded and sealed with matt sanding sealer. Then I’ve cut the gunports and started treenailing the bulwarks. Finally I’ve drilled the water scuppers, but unfortunately don’t have images of this last job.

 

So, some pictures of the various phases:

Treenailing... well, deck and bulwark and gunports were not done in subsequent steps because treenailing is so boring that I couldn’t resist the temptation of jumping to other tasks here and there...  

 

 

This is a small area of the deck that I’ve already sanded to see the final effect...

 

 

The holes are marked by pencil, then punched with a needle point and drilled at 0.6mm. Then the tip of the nail is inserted  with some white glue, let dry, cut as close as possible to the deck surface and sanded flush (which also helps cleaning from any residual glue).

 

And this is an overall shot of the entire deck, just to give an idea. I left some alternate free areas for better accessibility, then cut the wooden pegs flush with the deck and treenailed the remaining areas.

 

 

I couldn’t resist the temptation to cut the gunports because wanted to see the result of my building method for their framing...

Here you see the Pearwood framing exposed, and contrasting with the Yellowheart wood of the bulwarks planking. Also evident is the upward tapering of the bulwark, as per Ancre plans.

 

 

And the following pictures show the treenailing test for the bulwarks (inboard-outboard). Treenails are Birchwood toothpicks, the same material as for the deck. Treenailing extends only to the area that will not be painted, so only to the first 4 strakes down from the bulwark top.

 

 

A shot of the completed deck, after sanding.

Treenailing of the port bulwark is completed on the outside only: it requires about 500 nails for each side, because the vertical rows of nails are more closely spaced w.r.t. those of the deck... so still other 1500 nails to go!

 

 

Finally these pictures are taken after application of one coat of matt sanding sealer to the entire deck: difference is subtle but evident, the color of Ramin planks is warmer and the treenails are more contrasted. The yellowish deck area close to the starboard bulwark is just a reflection from the bulwark planks, not a color defect.

 

 

Finally, I drilled the water scuppers: they are 4 per side just in front of gunports 5-6-7-8, 2mm diameter, drilled in the waterways at the same level of the deck.

I used the method of progressively drilling from outside and from inside, until the two drill bits met in the middle. This way I had no problems with the linearity of the holes. I finished the inside of the scuppers, in the waterways side, with spherical diamond grinders. Could not do the same to the outside because the outward holes are in the area still to be covered by the 2^nd planking.

These holes were lined with leather or lead: I’ll use the method suggested by Tlevine, in his buildlog of the HMS Atalanta... will see how it works.

 

My best regards and stay tuned!

Fam

[cog]

NIce job. Would drive me nuts I think ...Scuppres lining ... I remember Dan Vadas had a nice solution ...

[Fam]

Thank you Carl

had a look at DanVadas's method and will give it a chance if the other is not working, because use of styrene tubes is a bit harder.

Yesterday did a test with heavy paper (0.15-0.2mm thickness) and Tlevine's method: the result is not bad at all, have to say!

 

In the meanwhile the porcupine look is increasing: treenailing of the starboard bulwark is completed on the outside, only need to sand.

 

And also prepared a set of pulleys for the bulwark multiple sheave blocks. As I don't have any tool, or even skill, for lathing brass pulleys I decided to simulate them using styrene sheets from Evergreen, 1mm thickness.

Will show you the result asap, so you can give me a go-nogo!

 

I'm also looking forward for the next job, which will be addition of the stem timbers (cutwater), keel and stern post.

In anticipation to this, yesterday evening started sanding again the basswood planking strips in order to have a 6mm total thickness of the false keel at the stern, suitable to match the 7mm thick keel and stern post.

Then will have to cut a suitable slot in the 1st planking strakes at the bow, to house the stem timber and cutwater I've already built.

 

Ciao and.... stay tuned

Fam

Edited May 18, 2015 by Fam

[Fam]

Hi all

yesterday I tried a variation to Tlevine method for scuppers lead lining, that I’m hoping to use on the bulwark outside (Tlevine’s method on the inside end).

I got inspiration from the model of the Dutch brig Irene (formerly HMS Grasshopper), a British built brig of 1806, which I’ve seen in Annapolis US Navy Academy museum...

 

 

On the outside of the hull the scuppers look like a pipe cut at an angle, flush with the hull surface...

 

 

Unfortunately the inboard ends of the scuppers are totally missing (!), an evident error of the model.

So my idea was to roll a strip of thin paper around a drill bit, let’s say 1.5-1.75mm diameter bit for a 2mm scupper hole. The paper is glued to itself, creating a small pipe. The pipe is then slipped and glued into the scupper from outside, and cut flush when glue is set. Finally painted medium gray.

I did another test on the same scrap piece of wood where i'm doing the other tests: this evening will cut it and see how it looks like. Tomorrow hope I have something new to show you.

 

Cheers

Fam

Edited May 19, 2015 by Fam

[cog]

Fam,

 

You make me curious ... hurry

[Fam]

May 20^th, 2015

 

Hi all

here I am to satisfy someone’s curiosity...

 

Firstly, my own personal porcupine! LOL

 

 

The lighter spot on the deck, in front of stbd gunport #3, is where I had to sand off the sealer to correct a defect, still to be fixed with another coat of sealer.

 

And now the tests for the water scuppers lining.

I drilled 3 holes 2mm diameter (left, for the scuppers) and 2 holes 5mm diameter (right, for the hawse holes) in a scrap wood piece. Then cut 2 disks from a piece of thick paper, about 4mm diameter, and 2 other disks of 7mm diameter. The problem with this method is to give the paper a sufficient lip surface to let the glue hold down the paper on the border of the holes when the paper is pressed into the hole... I tried with 1mm wide lip, but maybe 0.5mm is feasible if a thinner paper is used.

 

 

The last 2mm hole is used for the second method, using a paper roll (standard printer paper) to be inserted in the hole. The roll is then cut with scissors as close as possible to the wood surface, then the paper is soaked with glue and pressed to the hole border using a conic tool that creates the lip. This is similar to the technique plumbers use to prepare the ends of metal pipes for leak-proof connections.

 

 

And this is the final effect after a coat of dark gray acrylic paint... I didn’t even try to be precise with the brush tip, and the lining lips are far from perfect, but considering the size I think the result it’s not bad!

Maybe a slightly lighter shade of gray...

 

 

Just one consideration about the technique: gluing a paper disk above the hole borders, then pressing the tip of a tool trough the disk center to create the hole, is easier where accessibility for scissors is poor. Conversely, the pipe method seems to give a better result (well, to me), but free space for the scissors is needed.

So I think I’m going to use the first method on the inside, which will be also partially hidden by guns and various deck fittings, and the second method outside, where the lining will be perfectly visible.

Finally, all these holes were at 90deg to the wood surface, things may be slightly different when the hole is angled...

 

Next test: the sheave block pulleys.

The scope was to simulate the pulleys with something that gives the ‘idea’ of a pulley, even if the grove is not visible. Also consider that most pulleys will have a rope passing through, so will be only partially visible.

The method I used is the one I’ve already described, and you can see in the picture below the tool I used to punch the styrene disk out from the 1mm sheet. The sequence is straight-forward, no need for further explanation I think.

 

 

I painted the disks with bronze acrylic paint, but the result is maybe a bit too dark...

 

 

The look is not a shining brass as I’ve seen in many models, but I prefer not seeing any shine in my model, I think it’s too evident and not realistic... well maybe with the exclusion of the ship’s bell!

Don’t know, what do you think?? Any comment is really appreciated.

 

 

And finally yesterday evening I added the stem pieces/cut-water to the bow: the piece is made of three main parts, the other joints lines are just simulated... well, it will be partially painted and partially copper sheeted, so simulating the joint is a non-sense, but I wanted to see how it looks!

 

 

I had to cut a slot in the bulwark external layer of Yellowheart planks, because this layer is glued externally to the extension of the false keel, while the internal profile of the stem timber exactly follows the false keel profile.

Ideally, the hook of the stem timbers (the upper appendix for the main stay that is hold by the clamp in the above picture) has an extension internally to the bulwark that I added as a separate piece before planking the bulwarks: you can see it in the first picture of today, same color of the stem pieces.

If you compare this detail to the same in JackAubrey’s build-log, he cut all the way through the bulwark and the extension is integral with the stem timbers... definitely a better approach, but I was too late !

 

I also had to cut a slot in the forward side of hull basswood planking, to 2/3 of the height down from the wale (about where a darker strake is laying), to let the cut-water reach the false keel profile. Apart from this, the matching is quite good and there is a little slot left free for the second planking layer.

 

I’m now preparing the keel pieces; they will be two, and will be joined to the cut-water and to each other by scarph joints (where the green headed pin is visible). Cut-water and keel pieces will be fixed more strongly to the false keel by means of 2mm wooden pins. On top of the keel, the ‘shoe’ will be added covering the fixing pins. The second step in front of the green pin is just the housing for this piece.

Two holes will have to be drilled in the keel and shoe pieces for the bolts of the model supports.

 

And this is the end for today

Cheers

Fam

Edited May 20, 2015 by Fam

[cog]

Mister magic ... Right, the grey .. I would choose a lighter shade between yours and white ... besides the parts which oxidise turn white-ish ... Couldn't you use a sharp knife instead of the scissors? Any one of your methods should work fine, by what you showed us.

Overall you've managed to get some nice work done!!

[Fam]

Thank you Carl, I appreciate!

[mtaylor]

Very nicely done, Fam.  The sheaves look perfect. 

 

On the paper and punching a hole.... can you turn brass?  Maybe make a punch with a sharp point?

[Fam]

Thank you Mark

unfortunately I've no skill at all, nor the tools, to turn anything, apart from some very limited capability with a power drill that I transformed into a homemade lathe. I use it for shaping the masts and yards:

 

 

No possibility with any metal, it's too imprecise!

 

And this is a big problem for me, because I don't know how/where to get the guns and carronades barrels: the optimum would be to turn them in brass, this is the obvious solution. In fact, I've contacted Johann (archjofo) who is building Le Créole french corvette of 1827: I cross-checked his carronades with Ancre plans and apparently the design is the same. Unfortunately he got his barrels from a friend, so this is not a viable solution... sobh

Now I've a half-committment with a friend of mine, but he's going to have a babyboy and so I see very few possibilities... double sobh :(

Cheers

Fam

[Fam]

June 8^th, 2015

 

Hi all

this will be the last update from my “Brik de 24” shipyard for a while, since I’m going to close it for one month due to another business trip for the Company I work in.

In these two weeks I completed several long lasting works and started preparation for the hull second planking.

 

Keel, stern post and “shoe”

Before doing this job I had to refine the hull shape at the junction with the keel parts. These are 7mm wide, so I had to measure and sand the hull in the junction area until its thickness was 6mm, to take into account for the 0.5mm thick 2^nd planking layer.

After this, I glued the stern post, the two keel pieces (joined with horizontal scarph joints) and finally the piece that I call “shoe”, the one protecting the keel in case of contact with the undersea floor. All junctions were strengthened by wooden pegs (the usual 2mm toothpicks). Of course the holes for the supporting screws were drilled before adding the keel parts.

Here are three views:

 

 

Obviously addition of the stern-post required refining of the rudder tiller hole, which I later completed by adding the 2^nd planking to the counter in order to have the correct and final shape for the rudder hole:

 

 

Second planking strips are obtained from Tanganika wood veneer, 0.5mm thick.

 

Wale and bulwarks mouldings

Next in the sequence, so to complete the preparation for laying the 2^nd planking, was the addition of several mouldings that are needed to better define the upper boundary of the wale. Additionally, I prepared and installed also the mouldings for the gunport sills, inboard and outboard of the bulwarks.

The first moulding is obtained from 3.5x2.5mm Pearwood strips that are shaped, as three-lobes, using a scraper. I was really pleased to see how simple is this method... several light passes and the moulding slowly takes shape under my eyes The important is to stick the wood strip to the work surface and hold the scraper at right angle to the wood.

The gunports mouldings are obtained by cutting 1x1mm strips from Yellowheart wood: not an easy task, because this wood is extremely hard but also fragile and tends to split apart under the table saw blade, when cut in very small strips.

The next pictures show the results:

 

 

I really like this other picture because shows the beautiful curvature of the hull, as it is highlighted by these mouldings:

 

 

The lines defining the bulkheads positions are also traced on the 1^st planking and will be used to calculate the shapes of the second planking strips using the method described in C.Passaro tutorial.

 

Bulwarks treenailing

Very few to say about this boring work. I didn’t want to leave it behind, as it is another milestone to be passed for the preparation of the deck. The interested area was the interior of the bulwarks and the interior of the transom. Technique has been thoroughly described before, so the only detail worth noting is the total amount of nails I installed... 2860, plus or minus ten! It’s not the biggest number I’ve seen here on MSW, but gives an idea of what anyone has to be prepared to when the decision is taken!

After having completed the job I have to admit I’m very pleased by the result, the treenails add a beautiful texture to the look of both deck and bulwarks... just wondering how much of it will remain visible after installation of all deck fittings and guns...

Here are a couple of pictures:

 

 

As I had the hull in the upright position, I also finished the top of the bulwarks by removing the tips of the gunport framings and sanding the bulwarks top flat: now they are ready to receive the gunwale.

Also visible in above pictures are the hawse holes and the water scupper holes.

 

Hull lining for planking

Just before temporarily closing my shipyard, this was the last task I did. It needed an entire work-session of measurements and comparison with Ancre plans of planking, but I think I’m pretty close to an acceptable result.

I ask all of the readers to write their opinions, and also ask Chuck to drop by here and give his judgment, so that when I’ll go back home in a month I can copy-paste to the opposite side and start planking. I will really appreciate any suggestion and apologize for posting maybe too many similar pictures!

 

 

Bye

Fam

[cog]

Impressive Fam, I like the way the first layer of planks isn't in line with second. Will make it even more sturdy. Another interesting way to use your sewing basket ...

Edited June 9, 2015 by cog

[druxey]

Your model is looking very good, Fam. Might I suggest you look at your lining out with the hull right way up? I found that things looked very good while the hull was upside down, but more adjustments were needed once I was looking at it as one would normally see the model.

 

I like the method you are developing for scupper linings. However, as the holes come through at an angle, would the flared ends be more oval in shape than round?

[Fam]

Thank you Druxey,

I didn't thought about this when I took my series of pictures for posting here on MSW: I checked my archive and have no pictures at all of her upright Unfortunately I'm in Philly right now, so I have to wait until the first week of July to shot them! I will, anyway, and post them here.

And yes, the shape of the water scuppers will be definitely oval on the hull exterior, I imagine something like in the picture I posted previously.

 

Cog

thank you for the appreciation but the different laying of the two layers is only due to the different planking technique I'm going to use. Anyway I agree with you that the strips crossing to each other in several areas will give extra strenght to the hull

I don't understand what you mean about the sewing basket... maybe is a joke but please explain

 

Bye

Fam

Edited June 9, 2015 by Fam

[cog]

Fam,

it's a joke refering to the pins you used to get those strings for your planking running properly from stern to bow. Would have made it in Italian if I could speak/write it. Unfortunately I can't

[Fam]

OK I've got it now...

I'm sorry but my knowledge of English language does not get to these levels ;-)

I've plenty of them in my tools box, probably one of the most useful and flexible tool in my entire inventory!!

 

In the meanwhile I've got a PM even from Chuck, also suggesting to take pictures of the upright hull, directly from the side, from the bow and from the stern.

I will, as soon as I go back home (one entire month... how can I resist so far from my toy??! :P ).

 

Thank you very much and bye

Fam

Edited June 9, 2015 by Fam

[cog]

Fam,

You are doing very well, both in model ship building as in English!! Sorry to hear you have to do without for such long periods. Take care!!

Edited June 10, 2015 by cog

[Fam]

Hi all

I'm finally back at the shipyard.

As kindly requested to permit a better evaluation, I post 5 other pictures of the upright hull.

Any indication will be appreciated and more than welcome

Thank you very much

Fam

 

PS: the fourth picture show what seems an upward bend of the wale molding and gunport sills molding, but is is an optical effect

 

 

[Fam]

Hi all

I've finally started laying the second planking, after several other adjustments to the 3 thread lines dividing the hull into 4 belts. Then I've copied-pasted to the opposite side of the hull, each thread for each bulkhead line. Finally I've traced the lines to the hull with a soft pencil and removed the threads/pins.

Now the hull is divided into 4 belts that, per my intention, show the run of the planking and the tapering-enlarging of the belts. Next was to calculate the width of the planks and thus the number of planks required.

 

I measured from the Ancre plans, for each plank strake and at every bulkhead line, and got an average width between 5.5 and 6mm. So decided to go with 5.5mm width plus a 7.2mm wide Garboard plank - measurements taken at bulkheads M1 and M2.

There will be a total of 23 strakes 5.5mm wide plus the Garboard, total 24 strakes at M1-M2. Ancre plans show only one drop-plank at the bow and one stealer at the stern, both located in proximity of the keel... will see if I manage to maintain this layout or need to do some adjustment.

Yesterday night started laying the Garboard, which is tapered to zero at bulkhead "IIa" and widens to 7.6mm at the stern post.

 

In the meanwhile I'd like to show what I've received while I was in Philly:

 

Left are Pearwood sheets from TheCrownTimberyard, right is Cherrywood and Holly from TheLumberyard.

Quality of wood is very good, or even excellent, sizes are precise (in mm for C.T., in imperial units for T.L.) but surface finish is different: sheets from C.T. are as smooth as a peach skin , those from T.L. are a bit more coarse even if I chose the finest finishing.

Luckily a friend of mine is so kind (thankyou Cesare!) to get them through an industrial thickness sander that greatly improves the finish and adjust the thickness to the closest mm size. Additionally, Eve from T.L. added a spare piece of Cherry (just roughly sawn to a variable thickness), I think to increase the stiffness of the package for shipping: it's good quality wood, so I got it finished to 6mm thickness: thank you very much Eve!

About the prices and the shipping: prices are not cheap, but still in line with the prices of modelling material I find here in Italy. Shipping costs are definitely high: I would have not ordered anything for shipping to Italy... too expensive.

 

Stay tuned

Fam

 

[Fam]

August 3^rd, 2015

 

Hi all

just a brief update from my dockyard of the Brik de 24... its time of holidays here in Italy!

I’ve been measuring and planking during all July, at a very low pace because I’m testing a new technique and my first priority is to make a good job with the spiling.

Have to admit it is not easy, every planks strake has its own width that is varying from bulkhead to bulkhead. Additionally the Tanganyika veneer I’m using often splits broken just when a plank is almost finished, so have to start again...and again...and again

At the beginning I was able to lay no more than 3 planks per working session, then I started planking also from the wale downward and so the speed increased a bit... nonetheless it remains a slow job.

Results? I’m quite pleased by the run of the planks, even though they still need some sanding. I’m not highlighting the borders with any simulated caulking, because later I’ll cover all this areas with copper sheeting or black paint.

I hope the pictures are clear enough, because I’ve used my phone instead of the usual camera:

 

 

Consider that so far I didn’t have the need to use any drop plank or stealer, I’m just increasing or decreasing the nominal 5.6mm width of the planks but never more than 10-15% !!

 

Regardless of the result, my opinion is that the method is too time-consuming (or I’m not skilled enough, yet, more probable!) if this entire job will be later covered, the effort is not worth unless the planking remain visible.

So I will complete this side of the hull and then switch to my standard and quicker method for the starboard side, with the exception of 3-4 strakes of the wale that will not be coppered but just painted black.

 

Now I’m enjoying my holidays with the family, so see you on September with new updates.

Cheers

Fam

 

[Fam]

October 30^th, 2015

 

Hi all

it’s been a long time since my last update from the 'Brik de 24 dockyard'... I was definitely lazy in this period, but the truth is that I was really bored by this phase!

 

Anyway, second planking layer is now completed. In the end I decided to continue with the spiling technique also on the starboard side. The following is the final result: the planks are barely visible on the stbd side, which I have already roughly sanded with 80 and 120 grit sandpaper. A bit better on port side of the hull, second picture.

 

 

Next jobs will be to prepare the base for the copper sheeting. But before getting to this step, I have some other phases planned:

• continue sanding the Tanganyca planks, until I get a smooth finish.
• apply 2-3 coats of acrylic wood sealer, with other intermediate sanding.
• before applying the last sealer coat, I will also re-open the water scuppers and the hawse holes, and will line them with the method I’ve shown before (only on the outside, for now).
• draw the waterline, a task that needs preparing a dedicated jig
• then I’ll apply the first coat of black paint, from the gunport sills molding downward to the waterline. I’ve not yet decided if use an acrylic paint or a wood stain: I will test the efficacy of the stain on the Yellowheart wood, which has a very closed texture.
• preparation for coppering will end with opening the housing for the bowsprit mast in the forward bulwark (with the help of the bitts holding the mast foot to get the correct slope) and to fit the gunwale on top of the bulwarks.

 

I’ve read all the discussions by my good friend JA about the materials and method to use for copper sheeting. I think I will give a try to this:

 

 

With 9.53mm width it is pretty close to the 9.8mm width of the copper plates I measured on Ancre plans.

The strips are self-adhesive, but I’m not sure whether trusting in the adhesive power characteristics (mainly in the long period) or gluing every plate with some type of glue...   any suggestion from the forum members is really appreciated!

 

Have a nice building day

Fam

[Fam]

Hi all

can anyone here address me (e.g. provide links) to some MSW buildlog where procedures-details-suggestions-comments are given about how to copper a hull?

I'm also looking for suggestions about the type of glue to use, should I decide to improve the copper strips adhesivity.

 

Thank you so much

Fam

[Fam]

Thank you Dirk

for your prompt reply, you really did a good job and also a great explanation! I've juste copied all your posts dealing with coppering and will use them as a tutorial.

I've just two questions, if you don't mind:

- you trusted in the back adhesive of the copper strips...any reconsideration or change of mind after lot of manipulation of the hull?

- can you provide the "recipe" for the salt-vinegar solution? I mean quantities, proportions...

 

By chance, I also read your method for lining the water scuppers...I will consider it, if only I manage to find suitable brass tubes

 

Thank you so much

Fam

[Fam]

November 10^th, 2015

 

Hi all

the first steps forward in the above scheduling, plus some extras...

 

I decided to draw the waterline as first step, as the following coats of sealer would have protected the WL from the following sandings. This was another “First Time” for me, as I never had the need to do this job in my previous models.

So I built two simple jigs: the first to firmly hold a 2B type lead pencil at the required height, while at the same time providing an ample and smooth contact surface easily slipping on my workbench plan.

 

The second was to hold the hull so that the waterline was perfectly parallel to the workbench surface. This was built in two steps: transverse axis setup and longitudinal axis setup.

For the transverse (athwart) axis I used the hull profiles at bulwark VI(aft) and III(fwd) from Ancre plans, glued to a couple of 20x40x200mm plywood scrap pieces. I then laid a bubble-level across the main deck, from port waterway to stbd waterway, and adjusted the two supports profiles until the deck was horizontal at quarterdeck, midship and forecastle.

On the longitudinal axis, I measured on the plans the vertical distance from the WL downward to the bottom of the keel (false-keel, indeed) at two extreme bulkheads: I found a difference of 8.5mm from bulwark XIII(aft), where the keel deepest point is located, and bulwark V(fwd). So I had to raise the keel w.r.t. the workbench surface such that bulwark V(fwd) was higher by 8.5mm above the table surface than bulwark XIII(aft). This was done by adding wood wedges of increasing thickness under the forward support, until I got the required height difference.

After these alignment steps, I connected the two supports by gluing two battens, so to lock their relative positions, and the hull support jig was completed.

 

 

Drawing the waterline was just a matter of measuring and then working slowly and accurately, in short line pieces, connected one after the other. The height of the WL was measured and marked downward from the sills of three gunports (again forecastle, midship and quarterdeck), then I double-checked with another set of measurements downward from the large molding. The 6 measures matched quite well, and they were at constant height above the table in all three control stations. Then repeated on the other side of the hull.

The trickiest drawing point was at stern, where the hull sloped shape tends to push the pencil tip down... I had to try a couple of times before finding the correct pressure to apply to the pencil.

A couple of shots of the waterline completed.

 

 

Next I draw a dashed line at 5mm constant distance down from the WL: this is the lower edge of the first band of copper plates, which is laid just across the WL.

 

 

Then I started applying several coats of wood sanding sealer, with intermediate sanding by progressively finer sandpaper. You can see several darker spots in above picture: I had to use some CA glue to fix the 2nd layer planks where, in some points, was not glued correctly. Not a problem at all here, as the hull will be coppered and painted, but I must always keep it in mind if I want to build the hull with the wood natural color.... another lesson learned for the second planking phase!

 

In between a coat, sanding, another coat... I wanted to start something different as a distraction side project. I’ve received from The Lumberyard three gun barrels (18pdr long gun, pewter, 1/4 inch scale) that almost perfectly match the size and shape of the 9pdr long guns of my ‘Brik de 24’. So started to build the gun carriages.

Wood type is pear of the darker shade, the same as for the keel and bow timbers.

Below you can see that I divided the cheeks in two pieces, a la françoise, with a step joint in the middle. So glued the templates to the 2mm thick billets using stick glue, easily removable. The other pieces are for the wheels axle.

 

 

The Ancre plans show the carriage with wheels of the same size, 7mm diameter, but I was not convinced about this because the curved shape of the deck usually needs to be compensated by larger wheels in front and smaller in the back. A quick check with a prototype confirmed my doubts: the gun barrel, horizontal w.r.t. the carriage, was aiming downward. So I filed the bottom of the rear wheel, and glued a batten below the front wheel... much better this time, the barrel was almost horizontal:

 

 

So decided for slightly modified wheel sizes, larger in front and smaller in the rear: 7.6(ish)mm and 6.3(ish)mm respectively.

Here below the two cheek couples are glued together to ease shaping and drilling the required details, while the wheels and axles are being prepared.

 

 

Here are all the carriage pieces ready for final assembly (the brass pins in the wheels will be later blackened):

 

 

Assembly jig:

 

 

I improved the visibility of the joints between the two pieces of the cheeks by using a lead 2B pencil, same method as for deck planking. All the holes you see are just 0.6mm pilot holes, to locate the positions of the various details. The larger 2mm holes in the cheek sides are for the recoil breech, which passes through the carriage in the typical French fashion of beginning 19th century. The support sledge for the elevation wedge is still missing.

 

The barrel then: I was not able to find in internet a reliable method to chemically blacken pewter, nothing similar to the effect that can be obtained on brass. So decided to give paint a try: Humbrol n.53 Gun Metal enamel (for plastic modeling) as a color base, plus about 40% of matt Black for a darker shade. The mix was applied after cleaning the barrel from the casting signs and after a deep wash and degreasing of the barrel. Here is the result with the first coat:

 

 

It’s still a bit too matt for my taste; it’s missing that “metallic shine” that I was looking for. But I’ve already experienced with the carronades for my USS Constitution that this paint can be polished using a rotary nylon brush: I’ll show you the final effect as soon as the job is done also for the second gun.

The paper strips painted with the same color are for wheels iron banding.

 

Back to the hull: before giving the last sealer coat I drilled the water scuppers and the hawse holes. In the second picture is also apparent the shade of color of Tanganyika veneer after 3 coats of sanding sealer.

 

 

Last picture shows the first real trial of lining the water scuppers. I’ve already explained before the method I’m testing, now I will try to use it to see how it looks.

A 2.5mm hole is drilled with an upward slant, some standard printer paper is rolled and glued around a 1.75mm drill bit, the pipe is then just inserted into the hole for a dry fit.

 

 

Have a nice day!

Fam

[albert]

Hi Fam beautiful work.

[Fam]

Hi all,

I have a question about copper sheating, can anyone give me some clarification?

The following is a shot of page 67 of the Ancre monography, dealing with copper sheating. There is a sentence, explaining the overlays of the copper planks, that is opposite to my knowledge:

 

 

I'll translate from French for you:

"...as far as sheating, it's worth to recall that the edge of the forward sheets overlays by 18 lines (41mm) the edge of the following (meaning 'backward') sheets and that the edge of the lower sheets overlays by 18 lines the edge of the upper sheets...". The attached sketches seem to confirm this sentence.

 

The first part is ok, but shouldn't the second overlay be the opposite?

I mean, if I start coppering from the keel upward and from stern to stem, the overlay is automatically:

- forward overlays backward

- upper overlays lower

 

Can anybody explain me where is my understanding error?

 

Thank you so much in advance and bye

Fam

[mtaylor]

Fam,

 

From the drawing, it would appear that you'll need to start at the top and work towards the keel.  Your translation of the text seems to indicate also... which is the way Le Venus is coppered.    Looks like the same drawing also.   

[druxey]

With all due respect, the drawing shows the overlaps in such a way so one needs to start at the keel aft and work forward, strake by strake upward.

[mtaylor]

Druxey,

 

I'm looking at that drawing (above) and it looks like the top of the lower plate overlaps the upper...  I agree on the stern.   Am I miss interpreting somewhere?  I think that starting at the keel the lower plate would be overlapped by the top one.

 

I hope I'm having a senior moment on this...

 

 

Edit:  I just doubled checked Le Venus... the same drawing and text states that the upper plate is overlapped by the lower one.  The plate to the rear is overlapped by the one in front.  Stern to bow and wale to keel.

 

Edit to the Edit:   I double-checked Belle Poule and now it gets messy.. no word on how she was plated in her early years as some point, the plating was removed.  However, in 1780, she was re-plated and the lower one is overlapped by the upper one and the rear overlapped by the one in front.     Stern to bow and keel to wale. 

 

The problem I think, is the Brick is after both Belle Poule and Le Venus although Le Venus is closer in time to the Brick.  And then there's the variation in the various shipyards in France as to the way things were done. 

 

I think I'll just wander off mumbling to myself... scratching head...  Two ships and not plated the same way... puzzling.

Edited November 22, 2015 by mtaylor