USF Confederacy by yancovitch - Model Shipways

[GLakie]

I think if you've got the right size cannon, the bore should be right. From all the great reviews I've read, and knowing that Chuck designed this model, and also turned those cannon, I would think they would be OK. 

 

Edit:------Didn't see Brian's post. Math doesn't lie? 

 

Cheers

Edited January 30, 2015 by GLakie

[augie]

Well done, Brian.

[yancovitch]

wow....thanks for that!.........saved me from having to take out the apples, oranges and bananas.......the level of my math ...looks like i was right.... they should be larger.....now to figure out how to do it without wrecking the cannon.....guess i'll hold the cannon in a rubber vise, and drill, increasing the size in small increments....should be safe enough, and remain relatively centered.........

Edited January 30, 2015 by yancovitch

[yancovitch]

hmmmmmm....i find that acrylic paint doesn't stick to the lead sculptures....will oil base work...?...if so....which can i use.....?.....

[ChrisLBren]

Alll metal fittings need to be primed - then you are good to go with acrylic or enamel paints. Hope this helps,

Chris

[yancovitch]

will an acrylic primer work...or should it be oil based?....thanks....

Edited February 15, 2015 by yancovitch

[GLakie]

Between acrylic and enamel, I don't think it matters which kind of primer, but be sure to clean the metal good before-hand. 

[yancovitch]

    still more finishing to do of course, but most of the stuff's in place.......used oil based primer on metal sculptures and it helped somewhat, but paint still can rub off if not careful...i dry brushed some stain on them, but i may have to do more........ i don't really know why i put them on now.... to me, they should be one of the last things that should go on......didn't use the plastic windows...removed them with difficulty after i saw how everything stuck to them....actually, i should have known better, but not too much damage done....................kind of late now, but i may paint them, since sanding them a bit with 400 grit went through a layer of laminate in some areas, which of course shows up.............i may order another set of windows, and experiment with filling them with some clear non yellowing resin, but then i may just  leave them airey....

    stern galleries noticeably are a bit higher....and planking is done................

Edited February 18, 2015 by yancovitch

[thowen]

Looks very good.

[augie]

Nice color on those decorations.  She's looking very proud.

[Rustyj]

I'd say that you are doing a good job on a very taxing portion of the build. Keep it up.

[yancovitch]

   thanks for the encouragement....

oh....if using this method of planking, i definitely would not glue on the margin planks ahead of time

   and, of course i have to make more trouble for me by not having filled and painted the windows ahead of time........but what the heck, it will probably be a good excercise in control ......

   one good thing though...i recessed them a bit, which looks much better than flush with the transom....hmmm maybe that's what i was supposed to do although i didn't remeber that being mentioned.....

 

another oh........how do i glue on the letters evenly?

   one more oh.....i used a tripod this time with natural lighting from the window which came out better....

Edited February 18, 2015 by yancovitch

[augie]

.how do i glue on the letters evenly?

 

Slowly......with a lot of patience.

[Beef Wellington]

Stern is looking great, very neat decking as well.  Well done!

[yancovitch]

gee i never thought i'd ever say thanks to anyone called beef

 

gosh, i thought i could place them backwards on a clear low adhesion tape, add glue, and place on transom....but i guess that would be cheating .....but of course, i have never heard of a clear low adhesion tape..., and what kind of glue to use that wouldn't squish out......hmmmmmmm......

Edited February 19, 2015 by yancovitch

[schooner]

You might consider glueing the letters with Microscale's Micro Kristal Klear, the same stuff you can use to make the transom window glass if you want.

It works well as glue for small parts and it dries fairly slowly so you have time to reposition the letters.

Excess glue that may squeeze out from under the letters is easily removed after drying with a toothpick so it doesn't mar any underlying paint.

Once dry it's not nearly as strong as CA (the reason it is only good for small parts that are not under a strain) so if you decide you don't like the placement of a letter you can peel it off by sliding a knife or razor edge under it.

 

As far as the plastic windows goes it can be a pain to have dust cling to them due to static electricity. You might try spraying a sample piece with clear coat and see if that helps. You may have to spray both sides. I haven't tried it so I can't vouch for it.

Tim

Edited February 19, 2015 by schooner

[schooner]

As far as positioning the letters on the transom, something that worked well for me in a similar situation is to type the ship's name into a word processing program, change the lettering style to something close to the PE letters, adjust the font size to match them, and then with a little trial and error adjust the letter spacing,  cutting out the name and fitting it on the model each time until you get what you want. When you have it the way you want it trim the paper name close to the top of the letters and tape it right under where you will place the letters. It will act as a guide in getting them where you want them. Some word processing programs will let you bend the name to match any arching on the model, if you can't do that just cut slits between the letters so you can bend the strip as needed.

Edited February 19, 2015 by schooner

[yancovitch]

thanks schooner....on larger models i used glass microscope slides, and they were wonderful......too bad thinner glass isn't available ......interesting idea for the lettering.........

[Chuck]

Wonderful work on the stern carvings and drop.  I especially like your version of the drop.  The castings look very good and well painted.

[yancovitch]

thanks chuck......seemed the logical thing to do......but thanks for the approval....

Edited September 17, 2015 by yancovitch

[yancovitch]

one more step........................oh....somehow missed getting some of the planking ends lined up properly ...will do better on top deck....

Edited February 21, 2015 by yancovitch

[yancovitch]

not sure if it's right, but i thought i'd put some hinges on the hinges (although maybe, in actuality the pins were reversed?? )....not sure if they're a bit, large but i could reduce if needed  ...very limited resources here........oh...have to mention i'm so impressed with the extra parts included in the kit...so so thoughtful!!!....

   ordered some blacken it....tried muriatic acid, but it didn't seem to do anything.......but will prime and paint if necessary......

   sorry but i rounded of the heads a bit, cause it felt good...no other reason....more finishing to do....

   so interesting.....i was watching myself as i was building, and suddenly realized that i always wondered why i couldn't build things like the pros here and discovered it was because i didn't want to, not because i couldn't....guess i got a built in limiter....like they put in the 50cc scooters so they don't go past 35mph (while most of the traffic is going 40mph like fear of perfection or whatever......but maybe that's something one evolves into.........

   it scares me that i'm getting so used to looking at this loooong ship so that other similar styled models look kinda chunky to me now ....

   again....a great kit...so much fun....

Edited March 9, 2015 by yancovitch

[UpstateNY]

About thinner glass..rather than microscope slides, have you tried using glass cover slips? They are 0.13mm - 0.17mm thick. At 64:1 scale, should be close to scale.

 

Link below in case it helps.

 

BTW...enjoying your build-beautiful work!

 

Thanks,

 

Nigel.

 

https://www.microscopeworld.com/p-373-cover-slips.aspx

Edited March 9, 2015 by UpstateNY

[yancovitch]

thanks for that nigel...will check it out.....never heard of it......

[dvm27]

Microscope cover slips are the perfect thickness but have you had success trimming them to size, Nigel? I have found no consistent way to cut them without their breaking.

[Keith_W]

So glad to see you here, I have been looking very closely at your model of the Royal William (which I am building). I have a number of questions as to how you accomplished certain aspects of your build. I hope you don't mind me asking  

 

Your model of the USF Confederacy looks fantastic as well. 

[yancovitch]

hi keithw....i sent you my email address......cheers, vic

i also was wondering about cutting those glass slips......thought a diamond cutter would work.....that's what i used on microscope slides......would be nice to know ......

[Keith_W]

Thank you, Vic. I have looked through your build log in the R/C groups, bought the edition of "Shipwright" with your article in it, and getting to speak to you in person is really the icing on the cake! I will send you an email. 

 

And yes, you need a diamond tipped scribe to cut microscope glass. Like this: http://www.micromark.com/diamond-tip-scriber,6472.html

[UpstateNY]

Hi All,

 

Nope, I haven't tried cutting cover slips,  it was just a thought. As Greg points out they are very easily broken.

 

I agree with Keith as a diamond tipped scribe would be my first tool for this as well. Thinking about it some,  I would first support the slip on something extremely flat like a microscope slide given any unevenness will cause the fragile cover slip to shatter from the scribing pressure.  After scoring, I would also put another microscope slide on top of the slip along the scribe line before trying to gently snap it along the scribe.  

 

I think it will certainly take some trial and error...be interested in what Greg has tried to date.

 

Quick edit...Dremel make a 545 Diamond cutting Wheel that would perhaps allow the slip to be cut if supported on a flat surface.  Would perhaps avoid the problem of the fragile slip shattering from the initial scribe pressure. Again...just thoughts.

 

Thanks,

 

Nigel.

Edited March 9, 2015 by UpstateNY

[Mirabell61]

hello Vic,

 

thats a a wonderful built model, beautiful to see, and yes I`m with Nigel, it would be a pitty to put paint on that lovely natural warm planking of rthe hull.

BTW. how did your laying of golden CA (per injection needle) onto thr brass decor work out after complete curing, did it flake off or so, Did it still present a bit of volume (3D effect) to the plain brass.... ?

 

Nils