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Showing results for tags 'Plastic'.
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C.S.S Alabama, Revell 1:96 85-5621, is my next model now. I found it on Ebay. Two Men O' War were going to be my ladder to experience. After thinking it over, my time would be better served with a greater challenge. I can give the two other model kits away to a kid who wants to get started in ship model building. I bought these two books to get started with: CMS Alabama: Builder, Captain, and Plans by Charles Grayson Wolf of the Deep: Raphael Semmes and the Notorious Confederate Raider CSS Alabama by Stephen Fox What is the difference between CSS and CMS? So, the plan is to build three 1/96 scale plastic models after finishing Charles W. Morgan whaler. CSS Alabama, USS Constitution and then Cutty Sark before my first wooden kit. -
The next project is this vintage 60's Airfix kit # 1908-400, this looks to be one of the first releases molded in black. This model is void of any planking so I'm proceeding with scribing in some above the waterline only, I'm not too concerned with the remainder of the hull as it will just receive some texture using 80 grit and be finished with the tallow coating, also another area in question is whether or not I want to create the round tuck, but I still have time to make that decision . Thanks for looking. Michael D.- 104 replies
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- Sovereign of the Seas
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After my failed attempt at the 1:700 scale Dragon Z-39 I poked around the interwebs and found a site that presented skill levels in their reviews. ‘CyberModeler Online’ is a very nice review source. <sarcasm>Surprisingly</sarcasm>, the Dragon kits are ‘Expert’. But, the Academy Graf Spee kit I bought concurrently was a ‘Beginner’ kit. I've been lurking this site for about a year. It has kept my interest in the hobby going. So, here I go again!!! I’m going to model her as she was while ‘showing the flag’ just before WWII. She, and her captain, were caught out by the start of WWII. It is not likely a good thing to be in the wrong hemispheres (both of them) as an unescorted cruiser against the world’s best and largest navy. Her crew applied many hasty, at sea, camouflages – some of which are cool. I really like the brush painted bow wave she sported on her final sorties, but I don’t know if she also sported the fake second funnel at the same time. Regardless, she did not take fire till the Exeter, Ajax, and Achilles plinked her at the Battle of River Plate. Thus, she probably should not be heavily weathered, and she had been well cared for. That means just two main paint colors and no camo pattern. I’m going to whale this one a little bit. I mean, I paid for her a year ago so any mullah spent now just seems like a justifiable new kit purchase. I’ve never used 3D printed parts but I think working those in will be easy and effective. I could not imagine bending PE for all those secondary guns. The Eduard PE will be used for railings and for some easy PE stuff – I did OK with the Z-39, but it was difficult. The plastic rails provided in the kit provide a nice and easy template for the PE. Regretfully, the Eduard PE doesn’t have the ‘CORONEL’ plaque that was placed on the superstructure while the WEM PE does – but the Eduard instructions are derived from the Academy kit instructions and I’m thinking that will make things much easier for a noob like me. I have never tried a wood deck, but there is no time like the present and the Artwox deck seems to fit no fuss, no muss based on build threads I have read. And, I’m going to ‘nope’ on porthole covers and whatever – I want to have a win here. Another thought for the more skilled and ambitious. There is a really cool photo out there where the Graf Spee is anchored near the HMS Hood and Resolution for the coronation of King George VI in 1937. I think that will require back dating her secondaries since she was refit to include the below aftermarket secondaries in 1938. Look at this beautiful photo: If any of you see anything amiss, please comment. I have yet to click the ‘Buy’ button and will probably not do so for a couple of days. I am planning on using Squadron.com for the purchases. If anyone has better sources please inform me. They seem ok though. Aftermarket: Item Cnt Manufacturer Part No Main Guns/Turrets 1 Micro Master MM1743P 8x1, 150mm SK C/28 Kit Provided 3x2, SK C/33 Twin 105mm Dopp.LC/31 2 Black Cat Models AC350071A 4x2, 37mm FLAK SK 30 Twin, Dopp Mount 1 Black Cat Models AC350068A 10x1, 20mm FLAK C 30 2 Black Cat Models AC350064A Artwox Wood Deck 1 Artwox AW10049 Eduard 1 Eduard 53050 Paint: Color Hellgrau 50 (light gray) Vallejo Model Color 990 (light gray) Hellgrau 51 (dark gray) Vallejo Model Color 905 (blue gray pale) Happy Hunting and Pray for Me...
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SOLEIL ROYAL - HELLER 1/100 (side project) At the moment I am refurbishing part of the house including my humble workroom. So atm I haven't technically been doing any major construction work regards to my kit. This is a big project but A SIDE ONE for me as when my workroom and other refurbish are bk to normal I will be starting a main project in wood. I actually started this a few weeks ago but didn't want to start a build log for obvious reasons, plus the fact even now I still don't have a true picture of where I will go with this, other than the fact I will be to a certain extent heavily improvising on her, which I have started. I wanted to have wooden decks throughout so I meaured the sizes of the planking on the decks, calculated how much I needed and bought in 80 x1metre lengths 3mm x 0.5mm lime wood. The planking has gone really well and I have now finished it all, I also stained this with a Dark oak stainer. The Hulls I was unsure about but went with the kit instructions using Humbrol brown yellow and a lot of drybrushing, this came out darker than expected but realising this was because the mouldings of my kit Hulls are solid black(I used the same brown yellow on my complete Royal Louis but since that mould was in white hence the colour originally close to what it should be). That said I was quite pleased with the darker finish and it gave it more of a weathered look. I thought the bottom of the Hull needed to be slightly darker though so I used a Humbrol Dark brown wash over the brown yellow and it really came up to what I wanted. I have also drilled holes in the hull sides for the addition of pulleys for the Gunport Hatches. Atm I am now just building and painting the guns. I've finished the 24lb(x24) and have just started the 18lbers. I was originally thinking to replace them all after sales but found it well nigh impossible to get the correct type of gun and in 4 different correct sizes, so I've had to stay with the kit supplied ones. I have also bought in relevant wooden Deadeyes(triangular), cloth flags and rigging thread. Looking a bit further forward I want to replace all the masts and yards with wood other than that I don't know exactly where I will go with her, other than keep painting and weathering parts, I may well add other things like metal anchors and Rudder chain etc... Apologies for the long intro and in hindsight I probably should have posted earlier, but this will be a long drawn out build a bit like this post lol... On to the photos.....
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- soleil royal
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Late summer 1805, the sun is burning inexorably from above, the wind is completely asleep, the sea is smooth as glass. The dispatches have already been exchanged. The master of the small cutter has just returned to his tiny vessel. Behind it there is towering the enormously massiv silhouette of the huge black and ocher striped three decker. Through the open gunports the lashed up guns can be seen. Also the officers' cabins ports are wide opened by the order of the Captain's to ensure an optimal ventilation of the hot and steamy lower decks. Clatter of activity on some guns being ran out cuts through the silence. The rumble of the heavy guns rolling over the decks and the trampling of countless bare feet and the short shouted commands supported by a multitude of hand signs originate from the ordered gundrill for new gun crews and their officers. In competition between the three decks they are fighting for the fastest rate of firing. The rest of the ships crew is occupied with cleaning and mending duties. The holystone are scratching on the decks. Above all the sails hang slack in their yards. No breath of wind moves them. They are nestled heavily over stays and fighting tops. The captain took advantage of the hot calm to put up all the canvas possible for airing. One of the studdingsails is taken in, the spar tied up with its inner end against the shrouds, in order to mend something on its fittings. Sitting on a swing seat pendent from the fore top, a crew member just is finishing painting over with ocher the originally black coloured mast loops. On the poop Captain Hardy monitors the young cadets´ training in navigation, supported by Lord Nelson, who uses the opportunity to entertain the cadets with stories of his actions and the ideas of his tactical concepts. But in the back of everybodys mind there is just one question - When will there be wind again ... -
When I first built Dreadnought I did not own an airbrush and used rattle cans and paintbrushes. I was really happy with the build at the time and it’s time to redo her in a different way. hopefully better.
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I’ve been sitting in this one for a while, and there are not that many builds out there. Eduard makes a small upgrade kit and there are some aftermarket helicopters to use as well.
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I'm new to MSW and ship building. I have done a lot of modeling over the years. And I have found out that ship building is the 'meat and potatoes', if you will, of modeling. I have lost a lot of my earlier photos of the cannon being built and the hull construction. I followed pete coleman example and others to get ideas for details. Books are needed to build these ship models if you want to even try to be accurate. I'll be submitting a lot of my photos. Many of which will be rather boring but I want to preserve them somewhere other than Facebook. All comments and tips are welcome!
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I bought this kit online a few weeks ago, and I’m ready to start building it now. This is the biggest kit that I’ve done so far, and it was relatively expensive, so I want to get it right. I would like to try to add some chipping effects on the hull, and I have some chipping fluid from AK interactive, but I’m not sure about what colour to do the base coat in. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, and I’ll add some pictures once I have something worth taking a picture of. -
The plastic kit is H-330 1972 New box, bought off of Ebay. I washed it with Dawn dish soap and rinsed it in warm water. Debating on whether to glue the some part together before spraying Surface Primer L Gray, or, spray on the spruce first.
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- Charles W Morgan
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Some time ago I received the Le Superbe kit in 1:150 scale from Heller. Since shipbuilding modeling has always intrigued me a lot, I decided to take a shot and assemble this model as best I could. While I have some experience with plastic models, I've never built a sailing ship, so I don't plan on doing a lot of modifications. This will be a very long report, assuming I have enough persistence to complete the build. As someone who lives a busy life and always in a hurry, I try to build slowly and carefully, getting as much enjoyment as possible from the process itself. Since I only build when the family is already asleep, I have a lot of quiet 🙂 However, this also causes a difficulty: I can't afford to tinker with the model as often as I would like. The man who writes the instructions for Heller should probably change profession, although just deciphering the diagrams is fun in itself. So far I'm terrified of the rigging stage, but I'm trying to solve one problem at a time. Wish me luck and persistence. I also thank you in advance for all your advice and tips. Regards, Piotr
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Hello, everyone! I've been quietly reading these forums for some time and finally decided to chime in with my own build. Others' build logs have been a huge source of information and encouragement for me during the build process, so I hope this log can be of some benefit to others. I worked on this kit for a week or so about nine years ago, and only picked it up again this year. It's my first model kit I've built as an adult and first ship of any kind (Although as a teenager, I painted the hull of the larger 1:96 kit from Revell, then immediately gave up). I also started with zero knowledge of ships, so this whole thing is a learning experience. Much of the work I've done recently has aimed to undo or improve mistakes I made when I first started. One of my biggest mistakes was choosing to modify anything at all, as this slowed the process and made me feel daunted at various points. As a beginner, I regret spending so much time tweaking this kit instead of progressing through multiple kits over the years. Still, I'll mostly focus on modifications here because that's what I've most closely documented. These first photos are from 2015, so some of this is more retrospective. My earliest record is of hastily assembling the hull and deck and painting various details. I tried replicating the paint of the real ship, which lead me to notice differences in the bow and other details. I couldn't figure out why the model had a figurehead, which lead me to research that interesting history. At this point, I should mention that I had two of these kits to work with. Both were purchased at Goodwill totaling less than $5, so I recklessly decided to sacrifice one in an effort to make the bow section more closely resemble the real ship in its current state. Even though I had already installed the boomkins and metallic anchor thread, I ripped everything apart and temporarily ruined both kits. I cut off part of the stem from the donor ship far enough down so that it would extend to roughly the correct height when reshaped and attached to the working model. A bit of jump, but here's the result. I tried filling the gaps with Tamiya putty but you can still see the seam where the two pieces meet and the decorative relief doesn't match up. The other white details were made using thin strips of masking tape for curves and covered with acrylic sealant. The whole endeavor still misses the mark for accuracy, but it makes the bow more recognizable in profile, which I count as a success. At some point, I also lined the hull with real copper leaf but didn't like the look of it and painted over it with green. I think this was because most of my reference photos showed the ship in dry dock.
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Not my first kit, but first in 40 years! I started building this model that long ago, but 2 kids, and life interfered. I always told myself, "Tomorrow, tomorrow". Well. tomorrow has arrived. Now, if I can live long enough, I WILL finish her. These pictures are a start. Funny, I was having trouble taking good pics with my old camera(a Sony dslr), but picked up an older Nikon Coolpix, and man, what a difference! This is one beautiful camera. Only one problem. It shows warts and all. Looking at the pictures, I see every little flaw. Lots of paint touch-ups to do. I know I am not up to the standards of some (read any) of you, but I will give it my best!
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- Soleil Royal
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Well I am going to try 'Start a model and finish it'. I got the Lindberg 'Jolly Roger' at Hobby Lobby with a coupon for $17. I will make some changes to the kit, add details to the gun deck, improve the masts and spars, make my own sails, and decide on which color scheme use. Improvements: add birth deck under ladders add hawse holes add gun deck capstans add officers quarters add galley stove Hope to make some progress soon Ziggy
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Hello everyone: This log will go back in time a bit, like a lot of my projects this one started roughly twenty years ago. During the early 2000's this tug, the Malaspina Straits, was listed for sale on a used vessel website. With the posting were a few photos of the tug out of the water along with a few drawings. At the time I was quite into 3D modelling and thought that this would be a fun project to make a few renderings of. One thing led to another and the project never did get off of the ground and the files were tucked away. Fast forward to sometime around 2017 and it was suggested that we build a pond at the local museum; the model ship bug bit, at this same time I was realizing that HO scale model trains, while neat, just won't fit my current living arrangements. The ship bug really bit when the missus and I purchased a property with a small pond, and a pond needs a boat so the search was on for a prototype. While organizing some files I stumbled upon the old drawings and photos saved some twenty years prior. A little looking online showed that she was again for sale and a few queries put me onto the naval architect. After making a call to see about getting a set of drawings the architect noted that this was a common request and asked that I mail a cheque to them, but make it out to another independent society that is rebuilding a steam tug, the SS Master. The Master is British Columbia's last surviving wooden hulled steam tug, once I learned that the "fee" for the drawings was going to help with this restoration I couldn't get the cheque book fast enough. Check out the SS Master here: SS Master The Malaspina Straits was launched in 1964 and was one of a group of three ships, the Rasario Straits and the third escapes me at the moment, all built for Straits Towing Ltd. of Vancouver, BC. Considered a hot rod of a tug it was primarily designed for moving chip barges up and down the West Coast of British Columbia. The tug moved around to various owners over the years and was refit a few times, the model that I am building will be per the original drawings. I've never seen the tug myself so can't post any photos of it but here is a link to a page with a bit more detail: Malaspina Straits - Nauticapedia.ca As far as model ships go, I've never built one, at least from scratch however I have turned heaps of styrene into other buildings, trucks and various model railway related things. As I was more familiar with modelling in styrene and as this model will be used in the water styrene felt like a better fit than wood, it may be, it may not be, time will tell. Just after the ugliness of Covid descended upon the world the model got under way, a few 4' by 8' sheets of styrene were purchased from a local supplier and bits started to be cut out...- 7 replies
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I have started on the hull of course and the first thing was to drill out the portals along the sides of the hull.The next step was to examine for ladders up and down the hull these were necessary for duties and maintenance to the hull.I found while doing the IJN Heavy Cruiser Chikuma that these ladder's add alot of detail to the hull giving it that 3D look.The problem is I have no 1/200 scale ladders but my 1/350 matched to the width that Trump put on the sides I am figuring they equal to about 18" width good enough for a man to work it took me 1 hr for the first set the longest set the rest with experience will be replicated quicker.The ones that Trumpter had embossed on the sides of the hull were so faint one would never of noticed them.I feel I am getting a bit long winded here all about ladders an portals but the IJN loved these ladders they could have 5/8 sets on the capital ships each side the Scharnhorst has three in the stern both sides which most ships have something there.This build I figure may take a year or better depending on time and the attention span.I leave now with a simple pic of the ship when the hull gets it's primer coat I will post a pick..
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Here I go again! Having finished the ‘Mayflower’ with some difficulty I needed some more occupational therapy! In January of 1972 we found ourselves on the SS Canberra. My family and I were sailing from Southampton to Sydney. Our eldest son was eight years old at the time and to remind him of the boat we bought an Airfix model kit of the Canberra which we thought that he might build at a later date. Time went by and the Canberra kit joined the ‘Mayflower’ and went into ‘storage’ with the ‘Mayflower’ for the next 50 years. They travelled from Brisbane to Wellington to Germany with us and now, with my grown up son’s permission, I’m starting to try to build the SS Canberra! This build log will describe my problems and solutions (if any) with the build. As others have already commented, the kit was not very well made so features in the polystyrene are not often clear and pieces do not seem to fit too well sometimes. This time the first step that I took was, after washing the parts, to spray everything with a white undercoat! I soon found that the major difficulties with the build were going to be with the painting of the individual parts and applying the transfers (decals). As I found with the ‘Mayflower’ my hands were not too steady and I did have some problems masking and painting some small parts. The windows were a nightmare (see later).
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Many years ago, a good friend in Maryland gave me this 1:350 Trumpeter USS Essex along with a ton of photo etch and a reference book. I intended to build the model long before now but life has its way of changing our plans. Well, now seems to be the time, so I will give this baby a start and see what I can do. I have added a Pontos detail set to augment the photo etch I already have and have the Anatomy of a Ship, The Aircraft Carrier Intrepid, on its way from Amazon. Here are some photos of what I'm starting with.- 135 replies
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OK, I'll make a start on my next build log. The 1/350 Tamiya (new tool) Yamato with Pontos upgrade set and numerous other bits and pieces. Those of you that have watched some of my other builds have obviously figured out I like the aftermarket stuff. That being said the kit is enormous, compared to my last build. I also got a cheap old took kit off ebay for painting practice when I get around to buying an airbrush.
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1. Constitution - Superfrigate of the many Faces - A tribute to the Basses Years ago I got this nice book by William Bass and his wife in which they describe their findings and their reconstruction of US Frigate Constitutions "Second Phase" as they called it. The years after launch and Quasi War with France - and before the War 1812 - the times of Preble and the Barbary War. Since I saw this beautiful book which was published privatly and therefor did not get the audience it deserves, I did fall in love with this beautiful ship! The Basses based their reconstruction mainly on Felice Corné´s paintings done in 1803 (Side view) 1805 (?) and 1807 (Battle of Tripolis). This one for shure you all know very well. Its - as far as we know by today - the very first visual description of Old Ironsides - done by Felice Corné in Summer 1803 most likely. The Basses did brief investigations even on which viewing angle the artist must have had for his sketches and they could prove that Corné did do really intensive studies of his object. But isn´t the ship a beauty here? Ochre gun strike, no bulkward on foredeck, single dolphin striker, open galion and - that impressive Hercules. Nevertheless, as we will see later: this interpretation causes headaches (at least in my little brain). Here now one of the Tripolis Paintings: Source: https://www.mainememory.net/artifact/6155 You can increase the image if you click on the picture on the Maine Historical Societies Homepage (link). Look at that beautiful lines, the two yellow stripes above the gun deck - and note the position of the channels on the lower of those lines: and here the beautiful Stern of the ship in its early phase: She was a beauty in ochre and black, some white, yellow and maybe a bit gold? .. and a thrilling sight with all that guns! In my eyes the ships earlier appearance is of much more grace and elegance than in her later designs. Fortunatly the real ship is getting closer and closer to that design again with the restorations since Tyrone Martin started that process. But maybe the most beautiful sight she must have been as she was planned: with complete open bulkwards - just as Humphrey intented her to be: Nevertheless: my plan is to rework and pimp the beautiful Revell kit which is ment to show her 1812-15 configuration - but which has some "errors" in it and which does not totally fit to her 1803 appearance. And this 1803-4 appearance - before leaving to the Mediterean Sea - that is my goal. I imagine by now a situation in which the ship is about to be fitted out for sea - maybe some weeks before the above shown departure of the ship takes place. Still with only long guns on the quarder deck... This build will be the very first for me since about 35 years. I was doing a Cutty Sark 1/144 (without proper rigging and bad painting) and a very nice Spanish Men of War in 1/72 - this time with Revell instructed but fully rigging (boy was I proud !) .. So I need to re-learn during the build all the needed techniques. Oh, I was mistaken: I started some years ago the build of the Revell Charles W. Morgan - but the "rush hour of life" did stop that efforts. Now, in times of Corona and possible loss of job I believe I need a time out for some hours a week from crazy daily hectic .. and "if not now, then when?" shall I start with this beauty. I hope you join me in my efforts and I am open for any advice and hint. Thanks for watching me.- 6 replies
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Part 2: Digging In This is a photo of my completed Golden Hinde. You should remember this if you've been a long-time viewer of my build logs. As I was building this model, I ended up noticing multiple historical inaccuracies. For one thing, the Golden Hinde might not have even looked like this. In Wikipedia's records, it was armed with 22 guns of different types. This ship is armed with 12 guns. In fact, the Golden Hinde was probably not even a race-built ship as is depicted here. For a 1965 kit, it holds up to scrutiny however. That being said, calling it the Golden Hinde might be a fallacy. There is also the issue of the belaying pins. Baker told me as I was well underway with the running rigging that English ships didn't start incorporating belaying pins until over a century after the Golden Hinde sailed. Plus, let's face it- with the skill and knowledge I have today, I could do a lot better on this kit. For one thing, the entirety of the shroud assemblies could be scratch-built. Secondly, the majority of the rigging and sails do not hold up to my current skillset, and the anchors and flags are the same way. I would like to significantly improve the paintwork as well. While the paint job is relatively good looking even now, I have better paints and brushes than I had then. I also have better tools and fittings. That leads me to my plan, and this build log. I will not touch the original Golden Hinde. However, I will order the Heller version of this kit and do that. I am planning on doing all my normal work on the ship, while paying special attention to the paint, sails, and rigging. I plan on making silkspan sails, putting decals on the sails, staining the rigging (something Kirill told me I should do) as well as making general improvements. This is still just a plan, and I haven't even ordered the kit yet. However, it would be nice to have some company while I work on what is hopefully going to be my best model yet. I plan on portraying this ship as a small galleon of the English fleet that went up against the Spanish Armada in 1588, and yes it is named after someone I know, but for official records, the name Queen Elizabeth comes from the English tradition of naming ships after the reigning monarch at the time. There were two ships in the Elizabethan Navy bearing her name (The Elizabeth Jonas and the Elizabeth Bonaventure) so this name is historically plausible. For now, this is a research log.
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I've finally found the time to reconstruct my build log after the great crash of 2013 Some of the pictures are lost so the log does not start at the beginning. This is my first serious foray into ship modeling. I say first serious attempt because 30+ years ago I built a Revell USS Constitution. But I was still in High School and not very concerned with accuracy or craftsmanship. I just wanted to finish the kit and display it. This kit of Soleil Royal was given to me as a gift way back then and I am just getting around to continuing building it. I am very much looking forward to a build that I can be proud of. Even though I know that my skills are not up to par with some of you I am trying to incorporate as much research and accuracy as I can muster in a plastic kit. Here are some of the pictures of what has been done. I'll try to summarize what I've done so far to catch everyone up. I decided to display the ship with all gunports closed to starboard and opened on the port side. Eventually I plan on setting just the fighting sails (topsails, mizzen, and perhaps the spritsail topsail) with the courses clewed up. I did not like the look of the eyebolts supplied with the kit so I replaced them with brass. The holes for them were drilled and the eyebolts pass completely through the upper wale. The ends will be trimmed and bent over to lay alongside the inner bulkhead. The ends will lay inside the gap between the hull and the upper bulwarks, in an area that needs to be filled anyway. Doing the eyebolts this way should also prevent any pullout cause by strain from rigging. I am leaving the lower hull unpainted for now until a proper cradle/base is finished. I don't want to ruin the paint job. It will be painted a dirty white to represent white stuff. I also drilled a hole through the bottom of the keel, roughly amidships, and fastened a threaded nut inside the hull over it prior to fitting the decks. This will take a bolt from the base to fasten the model down to it. I don't know how other people secure their models to the display bases so I just improvised with what I had on hand. The head grating in the bow has been noted by others to be a problem with this kit. It has no supporting structure to it and seems to be just floating there. I do not know how this would have looked with respect to ornamentations and design, so I have not decided what to do with this area yet. [/size] The decks went in easily. The kit has a series of stanchions along the centerline of the first battery deck to support the 2nd battery deck. There are none for between the 2nd and 3rd battery. As a result there is a lot of flex in the 3rd battery deck. Since there will be quite a bit of rigging fastened here that will produce an upward strain on the deck I added some extra support. I trimmed some sprue to length to make stanchions for the centerline to hold the deck up. And I added a boot (coat?) to the base of the mainmast to hold the deck down. The mast coat was fashioned from sheet styrene and quarter round molding. The masts are dry fit at this point. I do not think I will cement them to the step. I'm going to let the rigging hold them in. I added some shims beneath the hatch gratings to raise the gratings above the deck level to give the appearance of a coaming. All of the eyebolts for the decks were replaced with brass. .
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OK my MSW friends. I am going to need a kick to get me started on my Heller 1/100 HMS Victory. I know it is going to be a long and enjoyable process so I have to eventually get started. I got the kit a good while ago but have only removed the plastic wrapper and peeked inside. Meanwhile I continue working on a previous build but see the box containing that beauty setting there in my peripheral vision. I have spent countless hours reading the build log of other Victory builders. That may be part of my reason for delay. Each time I have my mind set on how I want to proceed once I start I see an idea or technique someone has used and think “Wow that is what I want to do!” So I guess my concern is doing something a certain way then later seeing a better way and being disappointed. My initial internal debate is the process used to paint the hull, especially the stern? I think by far the design of the stern and the paint scheme is so distinctive on the Victory. You see it you know it is the Victory! So beautiful! If you are now building, or did in the past, what was your method to apply the black and yellow ochre. -
My U-552 build! I bought this U-Boat model already December. After that I have collected paints, supplies and extra parts for the model. …and of course looked at other building blogs and took tips on them for my own project. Thanks for them. The plan was to start build when I get my “new hobby corner" ready. It's still in the middle of it, but I'm starting to make a model little by little … A few "Open Box" pictures at first. Orginal Box My plan was to order all the photo etched parts from RC Sub, but their stock was sold out just then. So I order parts from Bid Ed (Eduard). I also ordered detailed 3d-printed dec-cannon made by Eduard. Of course after that, Rc Subs was parts I wanted order. So I also ordered more photo-etched parts from them, but not the biggest set …. Left to right: Big Ed's U-Boat flags - Trumpeter original photo etched parts - RcSub Enigma - Big Ed's hull - Eduard cannon - Big Ed's hull body - 3 parts from RcSubs and Big Ed's tower
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As I move into retirement (and the peasants rejoiced) I had wanted to spend some time focusing on rigging. Well, I was given this Heller Victory with the hull pretty much done. The backstory was the gentleman had passed away and this was picked up in an estate sale for next to nothing. His work was superior and once I saw the hull I decided this was a good subject for my goal. There was the inevitable broken components but that was largely confined to the royal masts and (of course) the jibboom. The accompanying box of parts was incomplete but I have another 1.5 of these in the stash (bit of a story there). I would have done some things differently (like the deck isn't painted) but for what I was going to use if for and for actual looks that was fine. I have a friend that already has asked to have it upon completion for his library at home, which is perfect. I have dissected the plans and have defined each and every line so am over that hump. I did notice some differences to actual practice. I have a set of the plans that Longridge uses in his book (thank you Uncle Leo) and have defaulted to that presentation where practical. For example the foremast stays did not include the Breast Backstay so I am adding that. Not going crazy or over the top but where it makes sense will make those changes (for example, will use the supplied plastic blocks). I looked through my stash of 'rigging' line and have chosen to use 6 types. The Heller supplied line is white and didn't want to dye. So this morning after getting the remnants of the broken pieces removed and things prepped, went ahead and primed the necessary replacements. I am using Vallejo acrylics. It will be interesting to see how close I can get to the existing yellow shade. I should be working on this at least 2 days a week at a minimum. My first task is to scratch some open and closed hearts for the fore and main mast stays. These seem pretty iconic and need to be there but aren't included in the kit. Stay Building My Friends, Mark.JPG.79990ac9a03ccb5863611932cf047da2.JPG)
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