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About xken

  • Birthday 02/09/1947

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Morro Bay, CA
  • Interests
    Scratch building of all venues and working with brass.

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385 profile views
  1. Glad to see another Marine reporting aboard. I am in the middle of a Constitution build so stop by and visit. I was in Marine helicopters Vietnam tour with HMM-164 and HMM-362 July `67 - Aug `68. Semper Fi to those who fly! This is a great site to enjoy and learn as well. Semper Fi! Ken
  2. Sitting on the deck of my son's house in Southold,NY enjoying the morning breeze while the twin grandsons are napping. Life is good! Up from naps and playing with some new toys. These are the ones that will get the Constitution once completed.
  3. Now you just need to buy a "spare" motor Ken, and then you'll be able to have both machines set up permanently! Grant, Sssshhhhh! The Admiral has not figured that out yet.
  4. Just received my Sherline X-Y Table that my lathe column will fit on and become a milling machine by adding my lathe motor to the column. Changes from lathe to column in less than a minute. I plan to put this to work when making my yards both milling and drilling. Now back to tying ratlines for the topmasts.
  5. Wulf, here is a link to the show. Put this on your must go to list, plenty to see, swap meet and suppliers to buy from. Plan on taking a fair amount of cash. http://www.wemeshow.com/ Ron, the challenge with stacked disks is cutting them out and then alignment. This was one reason I bought my first lathe. As for casting in resin one would need to do pressure pot casting to drive the resin into the fin detail and then contending with the cleanup of the mold joint lines. Don't ask how I know all this.
  6. Vossiewulf, if you have a milling machine and a rotary table an easier way is to use a slitting saw to cut the fins. Still requires attention to detail but much less nerve wracking. Are you familiar with the model engineering show up in your area?
  7. Ken, Thanks here is the set I used. http://www.tomsmodelworks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_32&products_id=30 Will be buying now that they are available again.
  8. I may be a little late, but here are some steps on how I made the earlier version of the guns. Also not sure if Tom's Modelworks is still in business. I did scratch build my own cooling jackets when I did my Triplane. Just FYI
  9. John, you have hit upon one of the key factors of chemical staining. Another approach depending upon the size of the parts is to scrub the part using pumice and a toothbrush (I save old ones for this) in a bowl of hot water with a few drops of dishwasher soap until clean. You need to do the scrubbing within a bowl to "catch" the excess pumice which if not caught will plug you sink drain trap. Once the parts are cleaned rinse with warm water and set on a clean cloth to dry. When ready to stain heat the parts under a light bulb and once warmed up then dip the part(s) into the blackening chemical. Heat is a second factor often overlooked in the process that I have had great results with. The product I use is Novacan Black Patina that I purchase at a Stained Glass Supply outlet. Once stained if not pleased try rubbing the part with a clean soft rag and re-stain in the chemical. Sometimes the buffing alone can result in a pleasing finish as well. As you have learned, there are many factors that can influence the results including the alloy used to cast the parts themselves. Next time try heating (warming) the parts and let me know how the heating worked for you.
  10. Michael, Fantastic job on the drill press. Keep up the great work you are doing! Ken
  11. I am in the process of doing that with my Constitution build now and just finished the lower sections on all three masts.Note in the picture that I inserted a 1/8" x 1/4" wood strip between the dead eye lines to align the deadeyes facing forward and then tied each in place to the sheer pole. More pictures on my build.
  12. Visit and explore this site for Pocher cars and replacement parts. http://www.modelmotorcars.com/our-store/ Enjoy!
  13. Torbogdan, Thanks! WWI planes are my first love and I have more planes that I want to build than I have time left to build them. Here is a link to my other plane builds. Check out the Sopwith Camel it was built as a half and half from the upper left side it looks like a complete plane and from the lower right side you can see the structure details. This was requested by the client it was built for along with a spare engine for display as well. If you are going to cover do so before final assembly. http://www.wwi-models.org/Images/Foran/
  14. Torbogdan, Glad to see a plane build on this site. A few years back I scratch built this plane as part of the Fokker series with the Eiendecker E-IV and the D VII all being left either wood or brass as the original either wood or metal. One detail many of the kits overlook is the wind baffle behind the pilot's seat which was an attempt to reduce drag; while the British usually left a space at the rear of the fuselage to allow airflow. If you need any information or details let me know. Here are a couple of pictures of my build. Keep up the great job you are doing. Here the cowling is hammered out of .020" dead soft aluminum. Here is the wind baffle behind the pilot seat. The tail plane that you are working on. Let me know if you need anything.
  15. Just started back working on my USS Constitution build after a little diversion to build the Dirty Dozen.