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About xken

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Morro Bay, CA
  • Interests
    Scratch building of all venues and working with brass.

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  1. What have you received today?

    Greg, many of the trickier parts to make in the Constitution like the trailboard decorations and the canopy frames and hinges, portholes and propellers from the Dirty Dozen. No cannons or anchors. The first edition was written and published before I started ship building. When the first edition started to sell out the publisher asked me (Sept '17) if I wanted to change or update the book for a second edition I thought I would add a chapter on ship building, so I did. Keep in mind many of the techniques can be applied as needed to fabricate various parts. When I first started down this path one criticism I heard about other books available, were that they needed color pictures and more pictures and less verbiage. Also to focus on basics for builders transitioning from plastic to brass for substitute parts and assemblies and be more of a primer than a treatise on working with brass. I would like to think that I achieved that in the end.
  2. What have you received today?

    John, yes a case would have been nice; but I am grateful for even one bottle as a form of recognition from them.
  3. What have you received today?

    Actually came last evening much to my surprise was the advance copy of my second edition book with a bottle of wine included from the publisher. Here I am with both and a link to Shiffer Publishing to pre-order. Here is a picture showing the new added ship building chapter. This shows the new chapter. Here is the link to pre-order. They are on the boat inbound to conus. http://www.schifferbooks.com/model-building-with-brass-6401.html
  4. Doug, I like your idea of adding the guide rails for the white background card. I just cut mine to press fit. I agree with wefalck that your ratline could be thinner and be easier to tie. Again I used 100% cotton for both and tied my own ropes; polyester and nylons seem to have too much spring back for tight knot tying. Great job and I agree with you on the ergonomics of using it.
  5. Doug, I have not tried that to see if there is any difference; but I am sure that the yellow color of the glue may have so level of tint when applied to brown rope. I have only ever used the white glue for this kind of application.
  6. Doug, I did not have access to all ship plans, and it appears that the PdN is more the exception than the norm. The 1:35 size would handle the height but would require a little fussing on spacing the ratlines as they are added. Also keep in mind the shroud line spacing can be slightly adjusted by rotating the knot on the lower tabs from left or right to center on the tab. Michael, you need to make a port and starboard set; then the shroud loops can be added by alternating each as needed indexing each as they are added to the mast. Once in place then the deadeye ends can then be addressed. The key is tying the loops to keep them in proper order before removing from the Ratliner. One other thought that I have not tried is painting the lines while still on the Ratliner using either thinned paint in the case of black lines or using a 50/50 mix of white glue and water to stiffen for easier handling once removed. Perhaps Doug could do an experiment to see if it helps any.
  7. Derek, in the instructions there is an option to bypass indexing the shroud lines through the holes and tying directly to the bottom tabs for a little extra length if needed. Sometimes you just need that extra inch or so.
  8. Doug, looks like you are off to a great start; and practice will help. One thing to do is stretch the line before starting and use 100% cotton for best results. I made all my own lines on ME’s highly modified ropewalk that can be seen in mt Constitution build. As for your issues when tying the left side, tie a clove hitch which you can tighten and snug up with tweezers then follow up with a half hitch tied back through the rat line and seized on the tab to tighten more. The real key is to have all lines as tight as possible when starting. Three sizes are needed to best satisfy the range of model scales. Height difference from 1:35 versus 1:96. Ratline spacing is quite different. One can also drill a new pattern off indexing holes for a specific application and still tie off on the lower tabs Question 2: A odd or single shroud can be seized like a double line and then positioned as needed. Question 3: use clove hitches and with a half hitch if necessary and knot tying practice. Question 4: May need to make a rigging fixture to hold the deadeyes when tying off the shroud lines to them. To add your finished assembly to the mast you may have to cut and pin to relocate the mast after installation. That or debond the joints to disassemble. That will be a choice to ponder. I will enjoy following along and appreciate your feedback, but it looks like you are off to a great start!
  9. Another good source for copper foil with no clear coating are Stained Glass supply shops. They also carry the various widths as well.
  10. Gregory, if I understand correctly "for setting up properly on the mast" it does but you have to index the port and starboard mast loops in the proper sequence as you slip them on the mast when setting them in place. I hope this makes sense, that is one of the reasons I suggest in the instructions to tie the mast loops with a string before removing from the RATLINER once tied to keep them in sequence for later installing.
  11. Doug, I am the guilty one that designed, engineered and wrote the instructions for the RATLINER. As I was working on my Constitution I thought that there had to be a better way. Having been in Product Development my entire working career the gears went into motion. I also have designed and engineered model for ME so it was an easy proposition to work with them. Also keep in mind that I to am relatively new to ship building; but not modelling. So I devised this tool to be able to do the lines off model; like any other tool there is a learning curve. Some will wish to use it and other will rather rig on the ship. We went through a few materials until we got the correct combination for the best product to bring to market. I have tested it and it works great, but I also have the benefit of designing it. I also suggest reading and understanding the instructions before starting. Here is a link to the instructions on how to use them. Enjoy! http://modelexpo-online.com/assets/images/documents/RATLINER-Instructions.pdf
  12. The "What have you done today?" thread.

    Brian, here is a link to their schedule for 2018 and Oakland may be a great deal closer. Start saving your money and go on one of the sails, I did it last year and it was fantastic! http://www.historicalseaport.org/public-tours-sails/sailing-schedule/
  13. The "What have you done today?" thread.

    Another beautiful day in Morro Bay, California made all the better with not just one, but two tall ships parked together in the harbor. Life can't get much better. Here are just a couple of pictures taken earlier. They are here until Dec. 12 and on Saturday and Sunday from 2 pm. to 5 pm. they will have mock battles with cannon fire out in the bay. Enjoy!
  14. The "What have you done today?" thread.

    Not what I did, but my son had a business dinner at the New York Yacht Club last night in the "Model Room". Based upon the pictures he sent all I can say is WOW! A model of each of the contenders for the America's Cup since around 1867 displayed side by side, as well as other models scattered around as well as half hulls everywhere. Has anybody else been there? What an absolute amazing display of models.
  15. Here is a new Model Expo product that will make tying ratlines easier. I designed it based upon my experiences with the Constitution and thinking there had to be an easier way. We ended up doing three sizes for most common scales. http://modelexpo-online.com/MS7201-Ratliner--the-Shroud-Building-Tool--For-Approximate-Scales-of-176-to-190_p_1509.html