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About xken

  • Birthday 02/09/1947

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Morro Bay, CA
  • Interests
    Scratch building of all venues and working with brass.

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  1. Ben752 I just was reading your post and just wish to make a suggestion for future reference for yourself and others. Scanners and copiers really do distort images; for better results use a camera telephoto lens and stand back and zoom in on a plan detail, the lens greatly reduces distortion, then import the image to trace more accurately. keep up the great efforts! Ken
  2. Here are some additional pictures for a better look at it. The decorations are P.E. brass. This is targeted for those wanting to get into boat building and learn some of the techniques of building. The challenge for me to to build it using no machines and doing everything by hand as a novice might have to just getting started.
  3. This is one of the projects I have been working on and is now available. It is a larger scale than the previous kit offered by Model Expo and is the one Chuck refereed to in one of his postings. I can now show it since ME has posted it. MODEL SHIPWAYS 18th CENTURY ARMED LONGBOAT BRAND NEW! 1:24 SCALE KIT 24" LONG True plank-on-frame construction Perfect detailing with 36 Brittania mettal fittings, dozens of photo-etched parts Armed with 2 swivel guns & a cannon Three huge sheets of detailed plans 48-page step-by-step assembly manual SEE IT HERE & BE THE FIRST ONE TO OWN IT! 18th CENTURY ARMED LONGBOAT Laser Cut Basswood, Metal & Photo-Etched Brass Parts Model Shipways 1:24 Scale Kit No. MS1460 MSRP $169.99 Intro Special $119.99 Bulwarks & transom decorations are photo-etched brass! ARMED LONGBOAT PAINT SET Ten 1 oz. Bottles of Model Shipways Paint One each: Bulwarks Gun Red, Primer, White, Hull Yellow Occre, Iron Cannon Black. Two: MS4973 Wood Conditioner, Three: MS4972 Clear Satin Reg. $44.99 Now $34.99
  4. Sandor, the key is to first anneal the strip by heating it to just starting to change color and then quenching in water; this will soften the brass. Then with small duckbill pliers straddling a rod slowly form the strip while pushing down and squeezing at the same time. There is a picture on page 9 of my Constitution build of this. Hope this helps.
  5. What have you received today?

    Kurt, Sounds like a plan, will hold one for you. Also if anyone buys one elsewhere and brings it to the conference I will also sign them.
  6. What have you received today?

    I hope you have many hours of enjoyment! I am glad to see it has reached all the way down under.
  7. errors in blueprints

    I have come across all the issues identified above; but two critical are the reproduction printing process and the drawing program to begin with. I discovered the reproduction process when getting CAD drawings size D (22 x 34)reproduced for a build. The local printer did not reset the printer from a previous job and my drawings were printed at a 105% setting. Once discovered I took the drawings back and they zeroed the printer at 100% from then on on all my drawings I draw a 1 inch reference square and I tell the printer to verify the size on printing. I have not had a problem since. Also make sure the printer is using a large format printer capable of size E (34 x 44) drawings. Smaller machines when forced to a larger size often have distortion issues. Much like camera distortion in photographs. The second issue is the CAD versus Drawing program. While a drawing program is exactly what it says it is to be used for....drawing. CAD programs are for engineering drawing to at least four decimal points or more if needed. The best example to explain he difference is comparing both to a road. A drawing line is the size across the road from berm to berm while the CAD program set a .5mm line weight is like the stripe down the centerline. Admittedly, CAD programs are more expensive with a steeper learning curve versus the drawing programs. The old adage comes into play " you get what you pay for" and if accuracy is of major concern one needs to start with a good CAD drawing. One can still have errors with CAD but that usually is now human operator error not the program. As technology has evolved with 3D printing and laser cutting machines for hobbyists, to appeal to more they can use drawing files to work with their machines which usually have some form of conversion program to work. As a parting comment I would say that we are building models that probably will sit in a case and never be measured for comparison to another and can only be as good as the reference material we are building from. My experience has been that all kits and plans have accuracy issues and common sense adjustments are required and enjoy the build process.
  8. A lathe for masts and spars

    I have the 4400 long bed Sherline lathe and have used it for both masts and yards. Check out their site they now have a lathe setup for pool cue manufacturers along with an extended live center (new product) which I plan on buying. One thing with working with a lathe with wood is the type of wood being cut. Hardwoods are best, softwoods tend to shred rather than cut. I use mine primarily for metal and occasionally for wood. Keep in mind you can always turn wood with a metal lathe, but you cannot turn metal with a wood lathe. Just my 2 cents.
  9. The "What have you done today?" thread.

    Taking the Admiral out to see a movie and dinner to celebrate our 44th wedding anniversary.
  10. What have you received today?

    I plan to bring a case or two to the NRG Conference in Las Vegas. I will be signing them there and if anyone attending has a current copy bring it and I will them as well.
  11. What have you received today?

    Greg, many of the trickier parts to make in the Constitution like the trailboard decorations and the canopy frames and hinges, portholes and propellers from the Dirty Dozen. No cannons or anchors. The first edition was written and published before I started ship building. When the first edition started to sell out the publisher asked me (Sept '17) if I wanted to change or update the book for a second edition I thought I would add a chapter on ship building, so I did. Keep in mind many of the techniques can be applied as needed to fabricate various parts. When I first started down this path one criticism I heard about other books available, were that they needed color pictures and more pictures and less verbiage. Also to focus on basics for builders transitioning from plastic to brass for substitute parts and assemblies and be more of a primer than a treatise on working with brass. I would like to think that I achieved that in the end.
  12. What have you received today?

    John, yes a case would have been nice; but I am grateful for even one bottle as a form of recognition from them.
  13. What have you received today?

    Actually came last evening much to my surprise was the advance copy of my second edition book with a bottle of wine included from the publisher. Here I am with both and a link to Shiffer Publishing to pre-order. Here is a picture showing the new added ship building chapter. This shows the new chapter. Here is the link to pre-order. They are on the boat inbound to conus. http://www.schifferbooks.com/model-building-with-brass-6401.html
  14. Doug, I like your idea of adding the guide rails for the white background card. I just cut mine to press fit. I agree with wefalck that your ratline could be thinner and be easier to tie. Again I used 100% cotton for both and tied my own ropes; polyester and nylons seem to have too much spring back for tight knot tying. Great job and I agree with you on the ergonomics of using it.
  15. Doug, I have not tried that to see if there is any difference; but I am sure that the yellow color of the glue may have so level of tint when applied to brown rope. I have only ever used the white glue for this kind of application.

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