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About lmagna

  • Birthday 06/19/1949

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    Everett Washington
  • Interests
    Modeling, hiking, camping, reading

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  1. lmagna

    Them Old Jokes

    Now that one is one I could believe! Some if the people who are running the school system these days are astonishingly stupid and seem to lack all reasonable forms of common sense!
  2. Based on the dimensions of the real ship of 273' X 44' the model should work out to slightly over 13" X 2"
  3. Ok, ok I went back and hit the like button! I think J will come out on top also. I will make you a deal Mark. If you pull out your CH-53 and build it, then I will do the same for my Huey and we can kind of build them together as a open build like Greg has for his 1/350 ships. We could open it to all equipment that forum vets have served on, land, sea, and air. By the way I forgot what scale your CH was?
  4. Now I have just learned something new as well. I had no idea that breaking the anchor free was still a practice! Back in the days of rope and manpower I can kind of understand the occasional need. But now days with steam or electric capstans, and steel chain and anchors I thought there was pretty much nothing that would force a ship to have to abandon the anchor. One would think that the ships today even have the option of using the ships main power to rip the anchor free and the chain would handle the strain.
  5. Looking froward to seeing how this paint works for you. I have the same set. I will be using at least some of them on my Houston build. I think I am leaning toward the rail gun build as well. We have had a number of Missouri builds as of late and besides I know almost nothing about the history of the rail gun and following the builds of others gives me an education while I watch.
  6. Don't remind me that I have that coming up yet again. Probably this year! I would give your above post a "Like" but it does not seem quite right somehow. Let the decal wars end!
  7. Movies not included I have read time and time again about ships involved in blockade or other harbor engagements that had to cut their anchors free rather than be burned to the waterline or boarded by personnel in small boats, and having to operate with just one anchor until it could be replaced or retrieved. These are historical accounts, and as my reading interest is primarily in the American Revolutionary War it may have just been something the Colonials and British did to get away from each other in a hurry. Admittedly it seemed to be more of a common activity by the Colonials. I admit I have never heard of it being done by a merchant ship or for that matter by a large ship-of-the-line with huge crews and at least one or more captstans but then I have not read everything. I suppose that is why I also enjoy these discussions.
  8. Maybe like Carl said or adding a drying retarder/wetting agent?
  9. Might want to make it a LONG piece of aluminum wire! Aluminum transmits heat pretty well!
  10. Adding bushings just behind the universals is pretty easy. All you need to do is make another bulkhead just like the one you already made only for the new location. It does not have to be all that tall either as you will not be adding motors or anything else to it. Then it is just a matter of cutting two slots that allow it to sit under and around the two shafts just behind the universals with space all around. Cut two pieces of brass tubing just like you used for the stuffing tubes that went through the hull and slide them over the shafts and reconnect everything. The slots in the bulkhead should not touch the tubes at any point and they should be free to slide up and down the exposed shafts and through the bulkhead. when all is in place and nothing is touching or binding use silicone glue, (The toothpaste like stuff) and putty up the area between the tubes and the new bulkhead. When the glue fully cures in about 24 hours you will have a friction/vibration free support for the shafts. As a buy-the-way, Silicone glue is a fantastic RC ship product. I used to use it for everything! For example, motor mounts. Make a glob of glue where you want the motors to sit and press them into place and wait for it to cure. The same method can be used to mount servos and almost anything of that sort. After curing the only way to get them out again will be to cut them out! You can also make watertight seals with it by laying a thin bead around the lip under a hatch and spreading food wrap over the opening and pressing the hatch into place. When it cures just lift the hatch, remove the wrap and put the hatch back into place and secure it. Totally waterproof for years to come. If it is a covering like over the rudder that will probably never need to be removed unless something breaks and needs repair, you just leave the wrap off and glue it into place. If you need to open it at some point, with some care and a sharp knife it can be opened. On a model like you are building you could even secure the entire deck this way allowing you to remove it later if needed. It will NEVER come off on it's own and will never leak at the joints.
  11. Looks like they could go together quite nicely if they are in the same scale. Could make a nice diorama. Have you considered making the wood stock from real wood? Just go out to a tree and cut what you need then split and pile them in the tender. No painting needed. I thought you were planing on replacing the wood with coal anyway, but I guess I just misread. We need to get some of the real train people over here like Ken and Ron!
  12. lmagna

    Ship paintings

    Used hay is still a unpopular yet profitable and necessary commodity. LOVE your paintings Jim. I'm always looking forward to the next installment.
  13. Hi ir Great work so far. If I may I might inject a suggestion at this point. It looks like you are installing fairly powerful motors for his boat as would be expected. Your motors are well supported so long as your bulkhead is firmly mounted to the hull. But just aft of the bulkhead you have nothing but the universals and a relatively long section of open shaft until you reach the stuffing boxes. You may want to build another at least partial bulkhead with bushings or bearings just aft of the universals to stop any vibration of the exposed shafts at high RPMs. Just a suggestion, it may be possible that everything is heavy enough, aligned and balanced enough so that this may not be a problem even without the extra support. I believe it will be quite fast. It will be interesting if the Lurssen effect actually works at this scale. I think you will find that it does work. In fact it may work at much lower speeds than it did on the real boats. You have to remember that the one thing that has not been scaled down is the medium you are running in. Water is non compressible and your model is lighter and far more powerful than the real boats and will lift much more easily than the real boats ever could. Years ago I had much the same issue with the Lindburg PT 109. Right out of the box she wanted to ride nose high and tail down with a bow wave that flared out on either side by six inches or more! I was able to cure this by adding two strakes made from evergreen "L" strut on the bottom of the hull parallel to the keel starting from the transom. I did not make them very big but the effect was to bring the stern up and the nose down and reduce the bow wave considerably. The speed also increased noticeably. So if little strips of Evergreen plastic were able to do that then your outer rudders should also not have any issues of obtaining the same ends.
  14. No problem Tim The search was not only interesting but useful to me as well. Through this search I was able to locate the same kind of gun that I will need for my upcoming 1/350 scale Houston build. I doubt I have the skills to scratch build them the way you did yours. If you had built in 1/144 scale you could have used these: https://www.whiteensignmodels.com/p/WEM+1144+USN+50+Cal+Watercooled+MG+PE+14407/5134/#.XGb7pKJKi00 Sorry I was unable to locate anything in 1/200 or close.

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