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About wefalck

  • Birthday 05/01/1956

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  • Location
    Paris, France
  • Interests
    19th shipbuilding and naval history, indigeneous boats and their history

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  1. I think that it is how it was done. I think they used some sort of anvil on a long arm. I faintly remember having seen an illustration somewhere.
  2. Conversely, I have never seen a photograph or drawing with these guard-bars on the outside of the hull (just checked a 1910 text-book on iron-shipbuilding and it shows the bars on the inside). There they would be rather prone to entangle the lower sheets or being sheared-off in harbour (unless the hull had sufficient tumble-home). Restricting the swinging out of the freeing-ports would also defeat their objective, that is to clear out as much water as quickly as possible. I don't understand the point about the 'stays'. There would be no stays near the bulwark, or did you mean the bulwark stanchions ? Or did you mean the shrouds ? In any case the distribution and size of the freeing-ports would be chosen so as to not interfere with any of these elements.
  3. The use of this additional layer of wood may have been at earlier times. The 19th century hull I have seen don't seem to have intermediate layer. However, there was a layer of tarred and sulftur-impregnated felt under the copper. Before good antifouling paints were invented, iron ships were clad in a layer of wood before the customary tarred felt and copper sheathing was applied. This was needed in order to prevent the electrolytic corrosion of the iron hull by the more 'noble' copper. Heavy metal ions, including copper ions, can inhibt (partially) the polymerisation of cyanoacrylate cements. They can also interfere with the structure of other cements. The fact that the area, where the copper was attached was brown, seems to indicate that the oxide layer became detached from the metal, leading to a failure of the bond. This is indeed one of the mechanisms by which copper antifouling sheathing works: the oxides slowly becoming detached and with them anything that intends to attach to it.
  4. Jaager, if you didn't rub bright the back-side of your heat-treated copper it is no wonder that the plates are falling off ! The cement bonded to the copper oxide that slowly comes off the solid copper. I have stuck birght copper plates with contact cement to a model and they are still there after 30 years. There have been various discussions about the colour of copper sheathing on this and other fora. The work-day look would be a dull reddish brown, perhaps with a bit of green in the zone between the wate and the air. It does not look metallic at all. Painted, very thin paper plates may be route to go for small-scale models.
  5. Well, bought mine at a time, when the FET was not dreamt of and I had not knowledge off or access to the US american market - that is, if the Byrnes products actually existed at the beginning of the 1990s. At that time I wouldn't have been able to afford the FET and it is considerably bigger than the KS115 This fence-alignment problem is partly a design issue and partly due to manufacturing tolerances. Early on I made a fence-extension from extruded aluminium channel that can be clamped to the other end of the table. I also screwed down onto the saw table a thin sheet of aluminium to reduce the gab between the blade and the table. I don't do that much of sawing, so I can live with it (more or less).
  6. Due to the structure of ropes - three or four more or less round strands winding around each other, it is difficult to measure a diameter. On a three-strand rope a caliper would touch on one side a strand and on the other side the space between two strands. This is why traditionally the size of ropes is given by the circumference, which can be measured by laying a thinner rope around it. In addition, direct measurement instruments, such as the vernier caliper, though known in principle for quite a while, did not come into common use until well into the 19th century. This is, indeed, rather inconvenient from a modellers point of view, as the circumference of our 'ropes' would be very difficult to measure. However, as pocket calculators are common and virtually every mobile phone has a calculator, it should not be a big deal today to convert circumferences into diameter or vice versa. In many case a division/multiplication by 3 should be good enough.
  7. wefalck

    Working Comfortably on Upper Rigging

    The arm-rests are a good idea to steady them and make the work less tiering. Most modern ironing-boards are too flimsy and poorly made from aluminium. My mother had solid one, made from 1" steel tubes, which was heavy and stable. Haven't seen such for years. The ones with expanded metal tops are for steam irons.
  8. Well, what else one can do, but to join-in into the chorus of praise
  9. Personally, I think that such discussions are useful and interesting, as they convey information beyond the immediate topic. It is the essence of fora to have such discussions in the open and not behind the scenes via PMs. Good to know that the Lloyds volumes are being digitised, as many libraries do not have all the volumes. What about Bureau Veritas ?
  10. Good advice to contact the NMM. However, I would bet that she had iron knees. There would have been plenty of iron in Norway and Sweden (e.g. from Kiruna). Iron knees would make more room in the hold and being stronger.
  11. Somehow, the diagram appears to be correct in principle. However, there should be enough line to lower the boat into the water. I have also seen a lead-block fixed somewhere at the bottom of the round so that the fall would clear the boat, when swung out. The stay on top of the davits should be just that long to keep the blocks above the attachment points in the boat. There was either a ring-bolt cast onto the bulbous end of the davit, or there was a piece of sheet-iron fiddled onto the swivveling pivot for the blocks, with a hole punched for the stay. These are the arrangements I have seen in real life, it could have been different, of course, on the ALBERTIC.
  12. I would suggest that you get yourself a textbook on machining, for instance the one that was written by Joe Martin the deceased former owner of Sherline. This gives you ideas on workholding and machining techniques. There are countless ways of holding workpieces on a rotary table. It depends on the size and shape of a piece and on what machining operations you want to perform. Drill-chucks are for, well, drills and reamers. Do not use drill-chucks for work-holding, they are not designed for lateral forces. Most of them are also not precise enough. Whether you use a 3-jaw or a 4-jaw chuck, or a collet (chuck) for workholding depends on the size of the workpiece and on the desired precision. Collets are the best way to hold small round parts. 4-jaw chucks come in a self-centering and in a version with indipendent jaws. The former is mainly good for square stock and parts, while the latter can be used on all round, square or rectangular materials and parts, but is more time-consuming to center.
  13. Did not notice this sad news before and would like to join my colleagues in the condolescences. I always admired John Harlands scholarly writing, including his language comparisons, in his 'Seamanship in the Age of Sail', which has remained an important reference book for me since it was first published.
  14. I have had the book STEPHENS, S. (2009): Ship Models. The Thomson Collection at the Art Gallery of Ontario.- 184 p., Toronto (Skylet Publishing/Art Gallery of Ontario). for quite a few years now and it is an impressive collection. Unfortunately, when I visited the AGO in 2007, this collection was not on display yet. Druxey, is it really correct, that not all of the models are listed in the book ? Is there a complete list of the models somewhere ? There is one builder's/contemporary model of a pre-1918 German torpedoboat in the collection and I am wondering now, whether there are other models of the Imperial German Navy.

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