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wefalck

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About wefalck

  • Birthday 05/01/1956

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  • Website URL
    http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Paris, France
  • Interests
    19th shipbuilding and naval history, indigeneous boats and their history

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  1. Without meaning to be offensive, but somehow I don't get the fuzz about this . These are calculations one learns in primary school ... ok, if you are Imperial you have to handle different units (feet, inches, 'thou', ...), but this is just one more division/multiplication.
  2. Just to add to this: beds were also often raised higher above the floor than it is usual today, because obviously the higher you are in a room the warmer it is. I suspect that in Britain they still do this today, as British houses traditional are not very well heated. For the same reason four-poster- and alkove-beds, both with curtains, were used.
  3. Doors were low to keep the heat in the house and beds short, because people slept in the fetal position, also to loose less heat compared to sleeping with stretched out limbs.
  4. Becoming slowly envious of your new workshop - spacious and well-organised - and aesthetic. On my side all work has ground to a halt as I am trying to cope with the influx of my father's tools (and other memorabilia and household goods) after I had to clear-out my parents' house in preparation for its sale. Definitely need more workshop space than my 36 or so square feet. The Myford makes me drool ...
  5. Indeed, there are considerable regional differences today and were presumably in the past. I recall the sensation (hightened by the fact that it was a time of civil unrest) of walking through the streets of La Paz (Bolivia), a gringo towering above everyone, while only being just 180 cm tall - quite a difference to walking the streets of say Amsterdam, where I felt rather diminutive However, like in real life, not only the absolute height would be important for the scale impression, but also the proportions. While certainly there is a distribution of proportions across a given population, some peoples tend to have longer limbs and shorter bodies, while in others it is the inverse. The latter would appear smaller than the first group. Head length to body length ratios are also important, a big head making a person appear to be smaller. In this context it also interesting to compare artists' rendering with real life. There have been periods (e.g. during the 'gothic'), when people, particularly gentle-folks, were portrayed with a 1:12 ore more head:body ratio, while in real life it is more between 1:8 and 1:10. This reflected aesthetic concepts, as well as class distinctions. So the story turns around, as better fed gentle-folks in any population would grow taller than more deprived classes subject also to hard labour.
  6. Is anyone aware of such a small CNC-mill/router that can be controlled from a Mac ? The guys that make the Shapeoko 3 also make a thingy called Nomad that seems to work with Macs, but I found it too big and pricey. Most small, cheapo machines only seem to made to work with Windows ...
  7. In the days of pocket calculators (now almost gone) and smart phones scale conversions shouldn't be an issue. Simply take your calculator and divide the prototype measure (ideally in the same units as you will be using in model construction, e.g. millimetres or inches) and divide this by the scale you are working in, say 1/60. In this case divide everything by 60. If you are on inches and feet, unfortunately, the story is not so simple, unless you use 'thou(sands of an inch)' - converting into 1/16ths, 1/32nds, etc. needs one more calculation step. I agree, for those, who are not metric, a ruler might be simpler
  8. There are various UK-based small manufacturers who offer white-metal figurines in O-scale suitable for the 'Victorian' period. Have a look at this trader's Web-site for a start: http://www.scalelink.co.uk/
  9. Nail varnish is a solution of cellulose nitrate. The same stuff, zapon, is used to protect metals, such as silver and brass, from tarnishing and can be bought in DiY stores cheaply. I have used it for decades to fix rigging, because it can be dissolved again with a drop of acetone and corrections made. Beware, today there are also nail varnishes based on acrylics. These cannot be dissolved again very easily.
  10. Halyards made out of chain?

    As materials science got under way together with quantitative methods for testing the strength, iron and then steel chains and iron/steel wire rigging replaced a good deal of the old organic rigging materials in running rigging. No rotting issues and a lot less maintenance. The last square riggers, such as the Flying-P-Liners, did not have a lot of organic rigging, except for the parts that needed to be handled by the sailors.
  11. Fly tying thread

    Indeed, dafi made a lot of experiments with fly-tying thread for small scales ... Personally, I found the Veevus-brand from Denmark the best: http://veevus.com/. They have various useful colours, such as greys, tans, and of course black. Also they go down to 16/0, which is useful for making really small-scale ropes. Usual disclaimer: I do not have any business-relationship with the company other than as a customer. I got the stuff from various ebay-sources btw.
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