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About wefalck

  • Birthday 05/01/1956

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    Paris, France
  • Interests
    19th shipbuilding and naval history, indigeneous boats and their history

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  1. What about e.g. (machine)gun barrels ? There are dozens, if not hundreds of parts that are round and will come out much crisper, when actually machined. I wouldn't be able to live without a lathe (anymore) regardless what kind of models I would build ...
  2. This could be an inherent design problem with these 'continuous' machines. Perhaps you can unwind the individual threads and then gather several unwound threads as a strand. On a machine with fixed distances between both heads, you would, of course, run multiple threads as one line, zig-zaging backwards and forwards between the heads, which automaticlly puts the same tension on all strands.
  3. I had seen this before and it is quite amazing. For the parts of a vessel that are permanently under water such complicated joints with many angles and corners may be not such a good proposition, as there would be many places prone to attack by rot. On the prototype the joints would have been tarred before assembly, which would be not so easy to do successfully with the complicated patterns. Besides, such joint are very costly to make, requiring a lot of fitting ...
  4. Even when working on platic kits, you may still need a lathe ...
  5. This kind of chopped-of-at-the-front name 'Phatic' aroused my curiousity. I assumed that it comes from aliphatic (resin) and, indeed, Wikipedia tells me that such glues are emulsions of aliphatic resins and sold e.g. under the brand-name Titebond. So people familiar with the latter may be able to tell more.
  6. Rather garish colours ... but may be practical
  7. You don't say what finished sizes of 'ropes' you want to arrive at, but I see that you are working in a 1/90 scale. This may require some rather thin ropes in places. For these you may want to look into 'fly-tying thread' as used by the fly-fishing fraternity. They are man-made fibres. My preferred brand, due to sizes and colours available, is Veevus from Denmark. You can fish such threads in the wellknown bay.
  8. ... one is never at the merci of the kit designers (who have to - to be fair to them - find a balance between the amount of work invested in them and the profit they can make from a kit), one can always do one's own research and/or study reputable sources.
  9. I would obtain a copy of HARLAND, J. (1985): Seamanship in the Age of Sail.- 320 p., London (Conway Maritime Press). This book is probably the best modern compilation on handling ships, giving examples for when, how and why certain sails were set or not and how they were handled. It is based on an extensive research on contemporary publications, pictures and other records.
  10. I gather using full length planks has the advantage of making it easier to get clean strakes and hence to look neater on a model. Whether this is prototype-fashion is another question in addition to the scale plank length. The problem is to get the butting ends aligned properly. Perhaps the best way is to fit a full length plank and then to cut it into shorter sections before attaching it. This ensures that the planks have exactly the same wiidth at the butt.
  11. The fewer layers between the material of the hull and the coppering the better. Any additional layer can become detached and may be incompatible with the cement used for the coppering. CA is problematic due to the fact that copper ions can 'poison' the polymerisation reaction, which then will not take place. CA is also a sort of 'redox' agent, i.e. it reacts with the fine film of copper-oxide that forms immediately once you cleaned the copper. As a result, CA can leave stains on the copper. A contact cement would be the best choice.
  12. I don't know anything about these boats. In general, the details of rigging tend to depend very much on the person in charge of it. So it could be useful to find out more about the background of the people involved, e.g. whether they were American or British, had a RN or merchant navy background, etc. This can give you some hints of the likely practice employed for a given period.
  13. Of course, I did not imply that anyone should ever attempt to drink sulphuric acid ! I tried to point out the difference between 'toxicity' in the scientific-medical sense and other detrimental health effects. Peolple tend to confuse these. Oh, btw, I have a PhD in geochemistry and many years of practice in chemical laboratory work
  14. NB, sulfuric acid is not toxic ! I doubt that you could drink enough to experience any toxicity from the sulphate ions ... sulphuric acid dehydrates and oxidises organic tissue, which is something completely different. It is important to not mix up different categories of hazards. Otherwise, people get worried about things, while in reality materials can be safely handled with the proper procedures and precautions. Having said that, for me there would be certain no-nos in certain working environments. For instance, I am working seated at a wooden workbench. This means that I would shy away from using at this workplace strong oxidising acids, such as sulfuric or nitric acid. A spill is difficult to control on a wooden bench and when seated, you cannot get out of the danger zone quickly - you will have it all in your lap.
  15. Look through 'dafi's' building log for his HMS VICTORY. He made a lot of experiments with different types of thread to arrive at calibrated ropes. The final thickness depends on many different factors, such as the compressibility of the material itself, its surface roughness, and in particular the amount of initial and secondary twisting you give it. In practice, you will need to experiment with the threads at your disposal.