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thibaultron

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Everything posted by thibaultron

  1. thibaultron
    Just shapeways, for now. A 3D printer is on the list, but I need to finish my shop renovation first.
  2. thibaultron
    I use SketchUp as my main 3D software, with DesignCAD as my drafting software. I have a thread on going from 2D to 3D that I did last year, in the forum, see my signiture below. What you can print, depends on the size of the parts. I was able to 3D print hand powered oyster dredge winches, about 3 X 2 foot, in 1/64th scale, but not the pipe dredge frames. For Shapeways the minimum floor/wall thickness, in their Frosted Detail plastic is .3mm, with wire minimum about 3X that thick. Long thin parts have a tendency to warp. I've also printed HO scale steam locomotive tender frames, in one of their cheaper plastics, and oil hatches for the tender tank top.
  3. thibaultron
    I have both his rigging books, great resource!
  4. thibaultron
    Manual tracing works best. There are NO bitmap to vector tracing programs that work well enough for modeling!
  5. thibaultron
    Nice idea!
  6. thibaultron
    For the less machine tool gifted, how about stacked disks, alternating large and small dia.?
  7. thibaultron
    I think the "temp" label refers to the bolt pointed to by the arrow. The outer timbers may be free floating, and serve only to tie the side and transom planking together at the corner.
  8. thibaultron
    I bought several, years ago. I'll have to go back and look through the files. Thanks.
  9. thibaultron
    Which Lanck rigging practicum has the seizing tech. you mention?
  10. thibaultron
    May they rest in peace!!
  11. thibaultron
    The frames were out by 1/16", or 2" in real life. I don't doubt that this may not have been true on the real boat, and probably fixed in much the same way. Years ago while living in MD. I read an article on a local large wooden boat builder, one of the last in the area. He said that all the boats he built, and all of the ones he knew about were asymetriacal by a fair amount, that modern ship builders would be surprised by. The nature of wood construction.
  12. thibaultron
    Looks like a good book, ordered one. Thanks!
  13. thibaultron
    In model railroading we have a saying. "There is a prototype for everything!" We also have a saying, "Never put a window in a chimney!" A couple weeks ago I posted this picture, on my Railroad Forum: When I was a teenager, I passed this house everyday going to school, and just looked it back up on GOOGLE Maps. Having said that, you also have to consider your viewer. Sometimes making a model realistic, can also make it look odd, or unfinished. In the end, however, it is up to you, what you want in your model.
  14. thibaultron
    Thanks!
  15. thibaultron
    Nice work! Looks like a fine delicate spider web.
  16. thibaultron
    BTW. I have the HMS Alert kit from the same manuf. The smaller 1/96th scale, non laser kit.
  17. thibaultron
    The only thing about the kit, is I would reca0end not applying the copper tape. A US/Colonial ship of that period, was unlikely to be coppered. The British were just starting to copper their warships about this time (1780). Coppering was very expensive, and experimental at this stage. A private builder was unlikely to be using it. I will be following this build. I love the Baltimore Clipper type ships!
  18. thibaultron
    It will likely be Mon. before I can start. Have to work the next 3 days.
  19. thibaultron
    I'll read through the whole thing in the next few days.
  20. thibaultron
    What a wonderful resource! Thanks for your effort!
  21. thibaultron
    My thoughts on the paint/no paint options. If you were building a plastic model of, say a model "T", or a ship, would you leave it the raw plastic color, or would you paint it? I would leave the wood parts with a clear coat, and paint the other parts the correct historical colors.
  22. thibaultron
    They make stuff you can brush on rotten wood trim to harden it. Then you use filler to restore the surface. This has fungicide in it. It is thin and soaks into the wood. Maybe these compounds would work. I think one brand was Dr. Wood.
  23. thibaultron
    For the problem that the surface in contact with the balloon/bag is smooth, perhaps cover the "mold" with similar cloth, apply the paint/epoxy, etc., let it set then spray it with some sort of mold release. After that put the real sail on. that way the mold surface would be textured, not smooth, and both sides of the sail would be textured.
  24. thibaultron
    Here are some pictures of the finished spray booth: These are a couple of pictures of the airbrush mount, and the regulator mount. The short length of glue strip is there as the regulator mount screws were longer than the ply was thick. I made a temporary dust cover for the booth out of a couple boxes, that I used as drop “cloths” while painting the booth.
  25. thibaultron
    Thanks for this tutorial! I think I'll use this method for my 1/64th Skipjack, that I may even have time to get back to soon.

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