ChrisLBren
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Hey Mark, These are all complications i faced when trying to use ebony - i seem to remember somewhere that you might want to try applying some acetone to remove some of the oils before using an adhesive. Good on you for getting it to bend to fit you hull - thats most of the battle. As far as filler - another tip i have - is to dilute the sawdust with your finish and apply. In my case i mix it with pure tung oil - looks much better than PVA mix IMHO. Chris -
Hi Mark, The planking is looking really good. As far as Ebony - I attempted using it on my Confederacy's wales using laminations. I had no success with it. You may want to ask Rusty how he did it. I used Fiebings Leather Dye on the swiss pear and it worked really well. I think i applied 3 or 4 coats to the finished wales (i made sure to apply Tamiya tape and not flood the tape edges with dye) buffing between coats. And then top coated it with Watcos Danish Oil. You need to be extremely careful dying on the model - this stuff does bleed easily - but with some advance planning you should be OK. Chris
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HMS Royal William by kay
ChrisLBren replied to kay's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Brilliant work Kay - cant wait to see more photos. Chris -
Love to see it Remco - I have a ton of respect for plastic modeling skills. The last one I attempted, a Pocher Monza, i smashed into bits after 4 frustrating months into the build. Chris
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Thanks Mike - actually the deck elements were finished with two coats of Watcos Danish Oil - which doesn't involve as much buffing as the Tung Oil which goes on thick. I used Watcos for most of the smaller assemblies (cannon carriages, binnacles, pin racks, deck beams, etc). Not sure if that made a difference or its just the lighting of the iPhone camera.
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Thanks everyone - Toni - your Atalanta is a beaut ! I'm really enjoying following your log. Always great hearing from you Rusty, Ben, Ferit, and Mark. As far as the wood Mike - its Swiss Pear - sanded to 600 and finished with 100 percent pure Tung Oil. I spent yesterday cutting out rails with my scroll saw - now Im sanding them to final dimensions with my Dremel. And just placed final order to Jeff for a the last sheets of wood I'll need to finish this one up.
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Hey Group, At last all deck furniture is finished with the re installation of the ships wheel (i lowered its supports 1/16) and the binnacles. All thats left on this one is the headrails, dummy masts, channels/deadeyes, gunport lids/fenders and anchors. I need to decide if i want to proceed to the head rails or revisit the WVH - it is painting and sanding season outside here in Chicago (if it cools down just a bit). On the other hand Ive got some renewed momentum on the Confed. Have a great weekend, Chris
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Hi Ferit I dont think so - the WVH is SM28 and the Berlin is SM29. They would not have made different size fittings/sculptures for these ships - I suspect they share them. I wonder if Berlin is truly 1/40? You dont have any secondary sources to compare the plans. I will do some measurement on the cannons, fittings and sculptures and compare to my plans to see what their actual scale is. Chris
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Appreciate the kind words ! Ben i used the 24mm wheel from Caldercraft - it looks great and worth every penny. I should be installing mine again later this week. I think the number is C87152
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Hi Ferit, You could easily scratch build her using Corels plans scaled up to 1/40 or the secondary ones Im using (Hoeckels or Quingers). The other interesting question this brings up - both models share the same fittings - so which ones are at the correct scale ? Im going to upgrade all of my blocks - but i should do a scale check the cannon barrels. Chris
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Hey Group Doing more research on her this week - both my secondary plans show her to be between 24 and 25 inches long at a scale of 1/75. The Corel model is 36 inches long - so the scale is actually 1/50 after all that is stated on the plans. For some reason on the box and the Corel site its states 1/40.
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Thanks Joe, Mike and Geoff. Good hearing from you Mike ! Congrats on the twins - mine just turned 6 mos and are sleeping thru the night - I never thought this day would come.... Pear is a great wood to work with - if you want any tips as to how to work with pure tung oil - let me know. Its actually fairly easy once you get the hang of it.
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Thanks John - the wood is Swiss Pear purchased from Jeff Hayes at Hobbymill. The "glow" is from the finish. The wood was sanded to 600 then three coats pure tung oil was applied. Chris
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Ok i did find some info from the Ships of Abel Tasman - heres what he states "Poor stuff was mixed with sulfur, tallow or whale-oil, which produced a whitish or grimy-yellow substance with which the hull below the waterline was treated. So it seems ill just experiment a bit with an off-white/slightly yellowish mix. Since im going to tung oil the wood and then finish with a diluted coat of bitumen to age the wood - a pure white will be out of the question.
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Good Morning Group, I thought I'd attach these photos - another member of the forum was asking about them. They are pics of the Quarter Galleries and Stern. I scratch built the lights and carved all of the filagree and scroll work out of costello boxwood. The humanity sculptures on the stern as well as the drops were resin copies of Chuck Passaros painted to match costello boxwood. These days it seems Id rather complete/tinker with existing builds (Confederacy and Wappen Von Hamburg) than start a new one - so you never know - i may revisit this area and replace the resin carvings with my own. I plan on doing some carving on the WVH so i may get the itch. Chris
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Really appreciate the kind words everyone ! Hopefully will have an update soon, Chris
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Thanks for the site Wefalck - really helpful ! Chris
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Thanks for the pic! The "white stuff" will have a Matt finish on my Wappen Von Hamburg. I already looked at the Wasa site and the site of the Batavia replica. Hoping to find some hard historical evidence. No luck so far.
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Thanks Rusty - im enjoying your progress on the Cross Sections ! As far as WVH - I'm excited to be starting her again. The thought of starting a new build from scratch is really daunting right now with the twins. Much of the heavy lifting has been done on the WVH and Im getting closer to my game plan. I want her to look as close to her actual appearance as possible which will involve a lot of painting/weathering. Im going to experiment with Bitiumen (some of the Russian Modelers use this) to age wood and rigging and paint all of the sculptures in life like colors as well as paint the bottom of the hull with the "white stuff" Im also going to use wire to simulate nailing on the wales that are pronounced on Dutch/German ships. Theres a lot to be "bashed" including scratching the head rails, carving of sculptures Corel omitted from the ship as well as some of Corels sculptures which dont fit my model. I also need to figure out a way to simulate the windows that will look real (which by design are dummys in this model) Im also going to carve the figurehead. And lastly she will be fully rigged - maybe even with sails. Its large scale lends itself to a lot of detailing. I still havent decided what to do about the opening in the deck - thinking its probably best just to plank over it. But before starting, I do want to reinstall my ships wheel on the Confederacy and finish those pesky binnacles. Also id like to finish the head rails - which should help me when Im ready to build them on the WVH.
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Hi Group, Doing some research on what exactly the color of this stuff would be on a 17th Century Ship. I know its off white/beige ish but Id rather get a bit more concrete evidence if its exists out there. If anyone has any useful websites - please let me know. Chris
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Hi Ferit, No i posted that message yesterday morning before i had a chance to remove her from storage. Now I'm revisiting all of the research I did on her 10 years ago and formulating an approach to restart this build Chris
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