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Everything posted by ChrisLBren
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ebonizing boxwood
ChrisLBren replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Pear bends very easily - on my Confederacy - I built the wales and dyed them on the model - using a demarcation line and Tamiya tape - I was successful not having it bleed onto the stem. I then planked the rest of my model afterwards. -
ebonizing boxwood
ChrisLBren replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Go with Fiebings Black Shoe dye on Swiss Pear for your wales - it takes the dye better than boxwood. I use 4 coats - they dry instantly then buff with an old t shirt. I then top coat with Watcos Danish Oil. -
Unless your name is Chuck - I wouldn't attempt these with anything other than a hardwood
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Thanks guys - actually this is the third one on this side - the other side I'm on number two ! Good thing I'm in no hurry to finish...
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This phase is taking forever (then again my time in the shop is limited). It takes a good amount of time to cut out and sand a rail that fits your model to spec and then this happens - the boxwood crumbles as you are carving the molding. And im using a hard wood... The scrap box is growing......
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Thanks Mark ! The rails are my carving - the wolves and the filagree are Chucks resin copies painted to look like boxwood. I cut them out of his resin trailboards and added them to my trailboards I cut to spec out of 1/32nd swiss pear on my model - then dyed with Fiebings. Again nice to be able to rely on Chucks beautiful carvings for this part of the build.
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No Rob (I wish) I used Chucks resin copy painted to resemble boxwood. I wont have this luxury on my next builds....
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With some care - Chucks Figurehead paints up nicely. I'm hoping to get the rails and trailboards finally installed by the end of next week.
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Hi Richard, Swiss Pear takes it really well - better than boxwood. I typically apply 4 - 5 coats buffing between coats. It dries almost immediately and has a sheen very close to Ebony. It is a little dangerous to dye wood on a model - because it will run. But Ive developed ways of dealing with that as well. I usually top coat with Watcos Danish Oil. Check out my scratch build Confederacy Build log if you want to see some pics. Chris
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How are you liking the scale Rusty ? Some swear building larger is easier.
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Ha - im worried about the supply of Swiss Pear too !!!! Welcome back from vacation Ben. And thanks for the kind words Mike and Rob. Mark as far as the conversion of the Commerce De Marseille to the L'Orient - its not that difficult - Gerard Delacroix included a supplemental plan sheet which has the figurehead Ive posted and the arrangement of the Poop deck to accommodate the 6 additional carronades she carried. Thats what I love about these Monographs - all of the research has been done for you - they are spectacular.
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Thanks Druxey - i now spend a couple hours at night after the babies go down to visit the workshop vs watching TV. As far as the next projects - I feel L'Orient is a notable subject - boggles my mind that I have never seen her modeled. In my opinion, one of the most beautiful 3 deckers ever built (sorry HMS Victory). I plan on building Le Gros Ventre as a proof of concept/introduction into building fully framed and French Naval Architecture. Then i will decide whether to build L'Orient P.O.B. or Full Frame. I am 43 - so hope to have another 40 years in me or so. And yes the wife knows both will be built in 1/48..... Here is her figurehead
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Thanks guys - Mark - rest of my life - yes - Le Gros Ventre will be full frame for sure - and Im toying with the idea of building the 3 Decker as L'Orient - Napoleon's Flagship at the Battle of the Nile full frame - enormous....
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