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ChrisLBren

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Everything posted by ChrisLBren

  1. ChrisLBren
    Thanks Michael and Ben for your feedback. Ben - cross sections aren't really my thing at the moment. What's attractive about the La Jacinthe is that it is an elegant little ship - @ 1/48 the hull is only 19 inches long and rigged and masted it would be 30 inches. Its shouldn't be too much of a challenge/stressful - but a great ship to focus on perfecting the basics while learning some new techniques. I really want to fully rig and add sails to a model. Theres some modest carving and metal work. And only two guns. If done right this ship can be a museum piece. This example won many awards in Europe. http://5500.forumactif.org/t1490-la-jacinthe-de-snarlev-au-1-48eme Based on my schedule a 120 gun monster is off the table for the next 18 years - I am going to give Confederacy a go again this weekend and see if i can get re energized. But I've been in love with this pretty little schooner for some time now. So we will see, Chris
  2. ChrisLBren
    Thanks for the responses guys - honestly because my time is so limited - maybe a more complicated full frame build is not the answer - but rather an easier subject where I will see payoff a lot sooner - and I can focus on improving the fundamentals (planking, metal work, rigging, and possibly sail making etc). I've had my eye on this beauty for some time - Frolich built this one and called it a "ship modelers holiday" between lengthy builds in "The Art of Ship Modeling" The price is about the same as enlarged plans of Le Gros Ventre @ 1/36th http://www.editions-ancre.com/Product.aspx?ID=3807269&L=EN Thanks for chiming in Mike - you know my world right now !!! Chris
  3. ChrisLBren
    Thanks Nils. Group I am stuck - I haven't had any motivation to build (which is a shame because I can see the finish line on this one). I used to work on Confederacy every day when I started her in Nov of 2009. I do have 18 month old twins and can use that excuse but there are others on this board in the same situation as me. About the best I've done with Confederacy lately is dust her off. I still follow builds on this site as well as the Ancre site and do research. I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and buy the Le Gros Ventre plans blown up to 1/36th from Gerard Delacroix (I already own the monograph and plans at 1/48) and and start assembling some frames on that build. Maybe sawing some wood for a new project will get me motivated again about ship modeling and enthusiastic about wrapping up Confederacy. This lethargy has nothing to do with not being happy with my build - in fact this one is the first build I'm proud of. Can anyone else out there relate ? Chris
  4. ChrisLBren
    Hi Gaetan - Curious about this Hahn build - what ship is this ?
  5. ChrisLBren
    I'll never understand you kit bashers(smile). It's easier just to scratch build if you don't want to build out of box with the materials you've already paid for as part of the kit.
  6. ChrisLBren
    They are necessary - I'm working on the fenders and chess trees on my Confederacy - to get the types of bends necessary for a flush fit to the hull with a hardwood - its really handy. Chris
  7. ChrisLBren
    I've posted this ship on my Confederacy log as well - I agree Karl - perfect ship and will use this log when I make my attempt at her.
  8. ChrisLBren
    She's a transport ship - love the name ! That Pear is a very interesting in color - much paler than the Swiss Pear i see here in the US. Are you going to build exclusively in Pear ?
  9. ChrisLBren
    Hi Jay, My process with pure Tung Oil is simple - apply first coat thinned 50 percent with mineral spirits (this is key for your base coat for maximum absorption) - let dry for 24 hours. Lightly steel wool with 0000 - then apply second coat full strength - let it sit for 10 -15 minutes then buff with t shirt - watch for seepage (you shouldn't get much - since you thinned your base coat). Again let dry for 24 hours - steel wool and apply final coat full strength and remove excess after 10 minutes or so. Let dry 24 hours and you're done - I don't steel wool final coat. Keep in mind this is using pure Tung Oil on a hardwood (in my case Pear) - you should be good to go after letting the final oil coat cure for a few days. I've never had a problem glueing a part to a surface i have applied this finish to - again you do need to sand or scrape the area you will be glueing the part to - then just reapply some oil after the part has dried - works like a charm. Chris
  10. ChrisLBren
    Sure Ill add to the discussion - I use pure tung oil as a finish. In order to glue a part to the finished surface - all you need to do is sand the area with 320 grit or scrape. Then you glue (PVA or Cryno) - and after dry reapply the oil for a perfect finish. Chris
  11. ChrisLBren
    Hi Tom, I will be watching your progress as well - wishing you the best. I also own this Monograph and hope to start her next year - in 1/36th scale. Chris
  12. ChrisLBren
    Looks terrific Remco - cant go wrong with Fiebings. Personally i think treenails standing out against dark/black wales looks odd. Subtlety is always better. Chris
  13. ChrisLBren
    Hi Mike, Kit bashing to me always sounds way more difficult than just buying a scroll saw, quality wood, source whatever fittings you need (from Chuck for instance), and doing it yourself with solid plans (smile). Look forward to watching your progress ! Chris
  14. ChrisLBren
    Looking really nice Danny - I'm at a similar point on Confederacy - i know how difficult it is to scribed parallel grooves on the headrails and cheeks. Ben to answer your question - swiss pear is softer to carve than box. Euro box is the best if you can find it, costello box almost as good. I had some costello crumble on me while attempting these rails on my build. Can't imagine them coming out half as good as yours Danny in swiss pear - kudos ! Chris
  15. ChrisLBren
    Thanks guys - your compliments are giving me some motivation to get back in the shop this weekend. Work and the babies are making it really tough right now. I can see the finish line - if i can just steal an hour here or there it should help me to get some momentum going again.
  16. ChrisLBren
    Id use the Oil afterwards - it should have no affect on the painted surfaces if they are completely dry (meaning wait a few days of the paint fully drying out before applying the oil). The wood will soak it up like a sponge - the painted surfaces shouldn't as the paint will act as a barrier for absorption. Hope this helps. Chris
  17. ChrisLBren
    For me its Art of Shipmodeling B. Frolich and Volumes 1 -3 of the 74 Gun Ship Boudriot - Volume 4 is on my wish list.
  18. ChrisLBren
    Fun discussion Nigel - but maybe I'm off here in understanding conversions - 1/32 is 1.5 times larger than @1/48 and 1/24 is 2 times larger than @ 1/48. 1/36 is 1.33 which just seems odd....
  19. ChrisLBren
    I've seen this gorgeous model Nigel - thanks for sharing ! As you've mentioned - its up to the builder to determine his/her own style. On my Confederacy build I completely borrowed/stole Frolich's approach. When I get to my next build - Im hoping to create my own style. I do know this - I'm going to scale up - either 1/36 or 1/32 (which again seriously wondering why I haven't seen a ship depicted in 1/32 scale)
  20. ChrisLBren
    Perfectly built model without any "simulated" caulking. http://5500.forumactif.org/t671-modele-le-gros-ventre-au-1-36-par-gbesson
  21. ChrisLBren
    How about no caulking ? Most classic museum models do not depict it - this is more or less a recent addition in ship modeling. Chris
  22. ChrisLBren
    Thanks Mike I think on a POB Unicorn - Black, Pear and Box would look sweet. Consider the Pure Tung Oil Finish - if you want to know my technique - send me a PM. I learned it thru trial and error. Chris
  23. ChrisLBren
    Jeff Hayes at HobbyMill has provided me some of the best service and product in my 20 + years as a sales person period. Communication has never been an issue and follow up has been first rate. Chris
  24. ChrisLBren
    Thanks Brian - big fan of your work and all of your posts here helping out. A friend of mine who is an architect blew up the plans of LGV to 1/36 to give me an idea of size - right around a 43 inch hull which is doable. My passion is French Naval Architecture after reading Boudriot's 74 Gun Ship series. As much as I love the idea of building L'Orient - she will be over 63 inches at 1/48 which just doesn't work for my space considerations. I could shrink the plans to 1/64 and she is doable - but I don't want to build full frame anything smaller than 1/48 so she would have to be POB. So ( I could change my mind yet again) - but I want to build full frame so my next project will be LGV at 1/36. At this scale you have so much room for detailing and sculptures are easier to realize. She has an interesting history in connection with Western Australia and has elegant lines. The 74 awaits in the wings if I ever finish this one ! As far as approach - it will either be exclusively pear wood (Belgian School) or i will use boxwood for sculptures as I do have some good English boxwood stashed. No dying pear to resemble ebony, no simulated caulking, but all fastenings and joinery will be executed. As far as finish - i want to explore some options - pure tung oil worked really well on Confederacy - but does involve buffing - which could be a nightmare on a full frame build with all of its nooks and crannies. I may need to look into wax as a possible alternative. Some of the French Modelers use old fashioned shellac which was used on the original museum models - very tricky in its application. More photos on Confederacy later this week, Chris
  25. ChrisLBren
    Hi Group, I wanted to share this build log. This model is gorgeous - built completely "Belgian Style" in all pear. Leaning towards this approach for my next build - note no simulated caulking but joinery and fastenings are well articulated all in 1/36 scale. http://5500.forumactif.org/t671-modele-le-gros-ventre-au-1-36-par-gbesson

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