usedtosail

Wow, that is a beautiful model, Dave. Great job!

Ken, I use this AOS book with a big grain of salt. There seems to be quite a mix of time periods represented in the plans, from what I can tell. That said, if I have no other information I will use it as a reference. For instance, I plan to make sky sail masts above the topgallant masts, as shown in the book, because I have seen these referenced in other sources. The small boat information was also very good. Other AOS books, like the one for the Beagle, was really valuable to me because of a lack of other references.

Thanks all for the kind words. It is so nice to be a part of this MSW community. I have had lots of time to work on the Constitution, which is always very therapeutic. I am focused on finishing up the small boats so that I can get on with the mast making. I had to bend some wood strips for the railing on the gig that goes between the splash rails. I edge bent them using the base of the keel clamp I have, which had just about the exact radius I needed. I used a bunch of clamps and blocks to get them to lay down flat. After they dried, I cut out the sections I needed and glued them down with very little pressure needed. Here is how they came out. As an aside project, I woke up one morning with the notion to replace the wire bumpkin supports I had, since they were not very straight. I had recently read Ken's (xken) build log where he stretched the wire between two pliers to straighten and harden it. I had tried this when I first made the supports but was not successful, so I tried it again and it worked great. I thought I was going to have to remove the eye bolts and replace them that way, but they were really in tight, so I was able to open up the loops on the ends of the wires, take the old wires off, use them as templates to get the lengths of the new wires, place the new wire into the eye bolts with the loops still open, then close them when they were installed. Here are the new ones. I am much happier with these. I have been doing some thinking about how to stack the two cutters on the waist rails. The plans show only the large cutter with cradles underneath and strong backs over the tops to hold it down. I could either use the same method and use cradles on the small cutter to sit on the strong backs, but I thought they might stick up too high. In the AOS book, they show the small cutter inside the large cutter, with fenders between them. I liked this method better, but was struggling how to make fenders until one day, as I was tying my shoes, it hit me to try pieces of shoe laces. I bought some white oval laces and after cutting the pieces, I browned them using brown shoe polish. I was quite happy with the look: I had first tried this with round laces, but it didn't look as good. I have been making the accessories to go into the boats, which in my case include masts with furled silkspan sails, wrapped with line, oars, rudders with tillers, and rope coils. The rudder for the gig also has a yoke with line attached, which I wrapped around the rudder for storage. I made the oars in two pieces, a shaft and a blade. I used square wood for the shafts, first making a slot in the end for the blade, then sanding it into an octagon shape, then rounding it in the lathe. I also shaped the handle while it was in the lathe. I then made the blades, glued them into the slots, then cleaned up the joint with a small file and sandpaper. I then stained the oars with oak stain. Here are some oars just after gluing them together: And here are some finished oars: One last little detail. The thole pins on the gig are very small. I used wire for these but just didn't like the unfinished look of the tops. So, taking a clue from Nenad's Cutty Sark build, I placed a tiny bit of CA on the ends of the wires, then painted over the CA with thick black paint. Now the thole pins have a bit of shape and to me look better. Hopefully I will be able to wrap up these small boats this weekend. Thanks for watching.

Looks great Mike.

Thank you Geoff, Al, and Denis, and those who hit the like button. I realize that the dust cover will work for now, but once I put the masts up I'll have to improvise something else. I hope all our US members had a great Thanksgiving. It was hard for us this year as my father passed away last week. He would have been 94 next month. He went peacefully and we are sad but at the same time a bit relieved that he did not have any serious illnesses that would have caused him to suffer. I will now devote the rest of this build to him and my brother who died a few years ago. Rest in peace, George. I finished the two cutters this morning, by adding the cleats, lifting rings, and the gudgeons. The rudders are finished too. I still need to make the masts and oars to go inside them. For the mast fitting hardware and the pintels and gudgeons, I used left over blackened chain plates. They are nice thin brass that I was able to bend around the stern posts and rudders easily. I am still working on the gig but it should be finished in a few days. Then I will be able to focus on building the masts.

Some progress to show. I continue to fill out the details in the ships boats. Here I have added the floors, benches and thwarts to the two cutters, and the floors and foot rest to the gig. I am working on the thwarts and stanchions for the gig, and the gunwales for the cutters. I should have pictures of those soon. I also was working on the martingale for the bow sprit. I added the bulls eyes by seizing them to some line, wrapping the line around the leg of the martingale, tying an overhand knot, and holding it with some thin CA. I then added the lanyards by seizing a piece of line through one bulls eye, wrapping the lanyard three times through the bulls eyes, then seizing the end around the wrapped line to hold it. I added the blocks and eye bolts and other hardware to the cap and here is how it looks on the bow sprit. How do you like my high tech dust cover for the hull? It is just an opened up grocery bag, but it actually works pretty well. It is very light and comes on and off easily, so I don't worry about damaging anything when I put it on.

Very nice. And can you show how you made them, please.

Nice kmart. Thanks for posting the link.

Beautiful job on this boat. That shot of the dashboard looks like the real thing.

That picture is of the famous chase of the Constitution by three British ships in July 1812 - the wind died so they used the anchor and capstan to pull the ship along (ketching I think it was called, or warping?), with the ships boats to pull on the ship too. The Constitution was able to escape and fought one of the chasers (Guerriere) in August and beat it. So these small boats had a big part to play in her survival during the War of 1812. Thanks Fright. I think you will do fine with the cannon rigging. It is a little tricky at times, but it helps if you can make the hooks so you can just hook the tackle lines on after the cannons are in place. Making the hooks small enough is the challenge I have had before. Also, seizing the breech lines to ring bolts before the cannons are put in place helps too, as then it is just a matter of gluing the eye bolts into holes in the bulwarks.

David, those boats are perfect and so realistic looking. I will have to try your method of making plugs from individual strips of each hull profile on a future build. Thanks for the tip.

Those conveyors look terrific, Denis. Nice detail with the nails on the control boxes.

Thanks Popeye. Here is the look I am going for. Some 1812 descriptions have the ships boats painted green, but I like this look better.

Thanks Popeye. Nothing real special here on the bow sprit, there are just lots of pieces to make. Since this is such a prominent piece of the ship, I am trying to be a little more careful. Here are the pieces with some white paint on them. I continue to make up the three ship boats. I finished painting the insides and outsides with white paint. I had a little bleed through of the white under the masking tape on the rails in a couple of spots, but I was able to scrape and file the paint off. I added the outside rub rails on all three. For the gig, I was able to CA glue one end down then slowly bend it around, gluing with wood glue, then more CA on the other end. For the two cutters, the curve at the bow was too much for this technique, so i soaked them and clamped them on the boats to set the curve, then glued them down with wood glue. I then added the keelson and floor boards to all three boats, and the platforms and mast steps to the two cutters. I am going to stain the rails and the interiors at this point before adding the next layers of stuff, so I can get to it all.

Really beautiful Pat. A great job you have done,

Hi Fright. I see you do have a build log, so I will check it out. I used the blocks from Model Expo for the guns. These are pretty blocky as they come, so I round them up with some files to get them to look better. For the single blocks I used 2.5mm blocks which I kept at that size. The smallest double blocks they sell are 3mm, so I filed them down to 2.5 mm before rounding them off.

Thanks Fright. It hasn't been that long that I have been building wooden ship models but it is so enjoyable. Don't be intimidated to start a build log. You will get some great advice from this group.

In between cleaning the gutters today I made some good progress. I gave the boats another two coats of white paint, and I think they are good to go now. I'll be started to fit out the interiors when this final coat dries. Over the last few days I have been working on the martingale. I started with two 1/16" square pieces that I planed and turned into the two legs. I took a piece of 1/16" sheet stock and at a 90 degree corner I marked out the angles and drilled two holes that the legs just fit in. I wanted a really secure joint for these, as I will probably bump them a few times while rigging. I then drew out the shape for the "head" and cut it out with the jig saw. I glued the legs in and shaped the transitions between the legs and the head with files and sandpaper, then finished the shape of the head. I drilled small holes into the legs and glued on small piece of wood for the chokes, which I am in the process of shaping. I had to glue a couple of these back on that fell off while sanding them, which is where I am now. I have also been test fitting the bow sprit and jibbooms and making the metal pieces that hold them together. I am almost ready to paint them, once the martingale is ready. As always, thanks for looking in.

How about a large self healing cutting mat, which is what i have on my work table. Amazon has some that are 48" on a side.

Yes, modern art is what went through my mind when I saw the pictures. That is a great looking jig and I bet it works even better than it looks.

Beautiful sheaves, Ken. Those masts are really tall!

A proper update with pictures. First, I masked off the rails on the three ships boats, then gave them a coat of primer and the first of many coats of diluted white paint, inside and out. Between painting I continued working on the bow sprit and jibbooms. I did end up remaking the cap because once I got the jibboom to its reduced size, the hole I had filed out was too big. The nice part about making my own was that I was able to hold the raw material in the drill press vise at the proper angle and drill the holes just about at the correct size. Then I just had to file out the round hole a little, and square up the other hole. I did make these a little further apart than the original cap had them, so the jibboom and its support piece fit better. Once I was happy with the holes, I cut the piece out of the sheet stock and sanded in the appropriate bevels on the top and bottom. This proved to be a little more challenging than I thought it would be to get the top to look right. I ended up making a few of these until I got the one I wanted. I then turned to making the flying jibboom. I did this one a little different from the other spars, in that I made it out of square stock instead of starting with a round dowel. EdT has a great tutorial on how he does this in his Young America build log, so I thought I would give it a try. I found it easier, less messy and less time consuming than making it out of dowel. I used a small plane to shave down the sides to the right profile, then used it again to plane off the corners. I chucked it in the lathe and sanded it round to finish it off. Kits don't usually supply large enough square stock to do this, but for smaller spars, like this one which was max 1/8", I had it in stock. I have found places on the net where you can order larger sizes of square stock, like 1/2", though if you do want to use this method for larger spars.. I used the mill to drill holes in the jibbooms to simulate the sieves, then used an X-Acto knife and small round file to finish them off. I then had to make the metal bracket to hold the two jibbooms, which I made from slices of two different diameter brass tubes with a smaller tube to connect them. I placed the three pieces together, put a drop of flux on them, then placed a small piece of silver solder on the connecting piece, and hit them with a pencil torch just until the solder melted and ran into the joints. When it cooled I cleaned it up with a small file. It still needs a little more clean up and to be blackened. A few pieces to add to the bow sprit, then I will make the dolphin striker.

Looks great so far Mike.

Very nice start, Steve. I like your reasoning for doing a cross section first, which is the same reasoning I used when I started. I will look forward to following along with your build log.

Thank you Geoff, Steve, Ronald and Bill, and those who hit the like button. I agree that the boats are little models in themselves and I have tried to tackle them that way. I am also hopeful that once all the interior stuff is in them the ribs won't be so prominent. I masked off the rails last night and will prime them tonight. I use AOS a lot and I am referring to the Anatomy of Ships series of books, particularly the Constitution book in this case. I have used others as references for other builds too. I shaped the jibboom this morning and now it looks like the bow sprit cap will work just fine. I'll have pictures of that later.