usedtosail

Congratulations on your son's graduation. Feels good, doesn't it. Nice work on the coppering, too.

OK, more planking "progress", but in this case it is really taking a step back. I started by adding a plank above the gun deck gun ports and planking down from the plank sheer. As that gap closed, I was having to cut thinner and thinner planks, and it got to a point that the planks were getting too thin and didn't look good to me. Of course, I could have avoided all this if I had worked out a planking plan from the beginning as I should have, instead of just winging it like I did. I have to complain a bit about the instructions at this point too, because the plan sheet I was using had the planks between the plank sheer and the gun ports the same width as the plank sheer, but on the next sheet, they are the next width up, so the really thin planks I started with for this area were too thin to begin with. The planks on the bulwarks are also too thin according to this second plan sheet, but I am going to leave these as is and will have to repeat it on the starboard side too. Here is the area I didn't like, where the planks were getting to be less than 2mm wide. You can see the big difference between these thin planks and the plank above the gun ports. So, I used the trusty Isoproyl alcohol to loosen the glue, then gently (well, mostly gently) pried them up using a dental pick and a micro chisel. I did not have too much collateral damage, just a few places where a couple of upper planks needed to be reglued at the ends, and one of the dummy gun port sides had to be reinstalled. Here is a shot with some of the planks removed (I had originally planned to only pull out three planks, but I ended up pulling out four). I cleaned up the areas under the pulled up planks with some riffler files, to make sure they were flat again. I could now replank in the new gap using three wider planks instead of four planks, and I am planking them in groups of three so that I can thin them down to the same widths before gluing them in. To me this is looking much better. I love planking...I really do

Markku, from that last picture it looks to me like your transom filler block may be rounded a little bit on top, so I would first make sure it was sanded flat. Then you could remove any excess at the top of the stern frames.I had to take some off the top of these so the deck didn't pitch up too high at the transom.

Looking good so far Mundie. For the waterways, I found the sides not too hard to make, but the curved area around the bow was a bit difficult. I cut the waterways for these areas from a larger sheet instead of trying to bend the strips laterally. But, I did not make them narrow enough and had to file and sand them narrower when they were in place, which was a pain. So, check the width before installing to save yourself a headache later.

Thanks Pete and others for the likes. I feel like an idiot this morning. As I writing the entry yesterday I was thinking - I know I have tools to make equal length strips, so why am I not using them? This morning I cut five strips the same length using a Chopper with a stop set for the length, and planked between a gun port in much less time. I only had to get the first strip to the correct length, them used it to set the stop. I guess I didn't think this would work at first because previous builds did not have perfectly square gun ports, but these seem to be much more precise. Oh well, I am always learning, and some times relearning, with this hobby. isn't it great?

Bob, there is some freeware that I have been using that works pretty well. It is called Inkscape and is a lot like Adobe Illustrator. I have done a few raster to vector conversions, but not a whole lot. The output will also depend on the quality of the image. There is a companion freeware program called GIMP that I use to clean up the images after scanning them and before vectorizing them. The one caveat is that the vectorization makes a lot of points, so editing after vectorization is a pain.

Nope, pouring like crazy here. Supposed to be dry over the weekend, though.

OK, I had to show some planking progress. I am taking my time as best as I can and have gone back and removed some planks I didn't like, but progress is being made. These are all raw planking - no sanding or filler (yet). I started by planking the rows above and below the gun deck gun ports, so that these would be full width planks and have been filling in between the upper gun port plank and the plank sheer, and between the gun ports. Most of the work has been in the stern but I am also soaking and bending the curved planks in the bow, but can only do a few a night in the bow. Those short planks between the gun ports take a lot of time because there is a 1/32" gap between their ends and the sides of the gun ports, which means I can't sand them to length in place, so they have to be exactly the same to line up vertically for the edges of the gun ports. I will be glad when they are done. I could add a couple more rows of planks under the gun ports, but I may wait until after the other side is planked like this side, so that I can use those two rows to adjust the height of the wales between the two sides, if I need to. I am having 10 yards of top soil delivered to the house today that my son and I will be spreading in the circle where the pool was that I took down earlier in the spring, so there won't be too much progress this weekend.

Wow, that rear deck looks great. If you didn't say anything, I would have thought it was individual planks.

Looks good, Mundie.

Nice job Markku. I also had problems with those plans at the bow which I modified as I went along. I still have to drill through the bow bulwark planking for the bow sprit, but I test fit before planking to make sure there was room for it, as you did here. I will enjoy following along with your build.

Nenad, I can just picture you taking a break, smoking a cigarette and looking at your lighter, thinking to yourself, Hey that might be just what I need! (And I see from your other post that is just what happened.) I love your build so far and your sense of humor. Nicely done.

Rich, I learned that lesson when I tried using nails to bend wood, a few models ago. When I saw you using those thumb tacks, I thought it was brilliant.

BTW, Pete, I love the natural wood of your models. I hope to aspire to that level of craftsmanship someday.

Don't get me wrong, I enjoy all aspects of building, including planking. This is just a bigger job than I have had so far. I'm just glad this is single planked and will be painted/coppered over.

As promised, pictures of the completed outer bulwarks. The inside planking for these will come later. Here is a view of the reworked spar deck water ways and plank sheer. So now I have started planking around the gun deck gun ports. I first calculated how many planks would fit below the plank sheer to the plank above the gun ports, leaving a 1/32" space all the way around them. If I use all 3/32" wide planks, I will have about a half plank above the gun ports, but if I use 1/8" wide planks for two of them and sand them down to about 7/64", they will fit nicely and still look about even. So with that figured out, I was able to add a plank above some of the central gun ports. I found a group where I could place a plank of a good length without having the ends right at a gun port, which wouldn't seem right to me. I made a little tool to help get the gaps consistent, which is just a piece of wood that fits into the gun port with a piece of 1/32" wood glued to it. I measure one gun port at a time, starting in the center and work my way to the ends. As I measure each port, I clamp the plank at that port, then go back and check that the plank didn't move after all the clamps are on. I also made sure the ends were at the correct height so that the adjacent planks can line up with the adjacent gun ports with a smooth run of the planks. After the two upper planks were added, I added two planks below the gun ports, using the same method, just different style clamps. The planking material for this hull is so narrow, it is going to take a long time to plank it. I'll try not to bore you all with too many updates once I get into the more routine planking, if there is such a thing.

Thanks Pete and Rich. Rich - I learned the thumb tacks idea from your build log. It works great. It's been a long time wince the Admiral hung clothes in the yard. Now she just pushes the dryer button.

Sorry, I should have included a smiley. Your stairs look great.

Is that a Stairway to Heaven?

More pictures of clothes pin clamps doing their thing. As I was planking the starboard outer bulwarks, I also started making and installing the inner plank sheer pieces, first on the port side, then on the starboard side. The starboard bulwark planking was done exactly like the port side and the two sides are coming out pretty similar, especially around the fixtures like the through hull sieves. I'll have pictures of the finished bulwarks later. I soaked and heat bent two pieces of square basswood for the inner plank sheer across the bow. Here I am gluing in the port side piece and the starboard side piece is clamped in place wet to dry. You can see a piece of wood I clamped at the very bow so the ends of the two pieces made that last bit of curve. Before gluing these in place, I sanded the inside edge to match the angle of the bulwarks in the bow. Here is the port stern plank sheer piece glued in place. I placed scarf joints at the ends of all the inner plank sheer pieces, except right at the bow. These pieces will either be cut away at the bow or covered by the bow sprit. The clamps at the stern are holding the last layer of planks on the starboard bulwarks. After I installed the plank sheer pieces across the bow, I thought the waterways underneath them were too wide. I made the water way pieces from sheet stock and was not sure how much the plank sheer would cover them once installed at the angle of the bulwarks at the bow. I summoned up the courage to take a sanding disk on a Dremel extension to the sides of the water ways while in place to make them narrower. I first sanded them down, then cleaned up the sides with an X-Acto knife, riffler files, and a sanding stick. When I was happy with the width and sides, I filed the bevel back into the top and side using a riffler file. Here is how they came out, which you can compare to the first photo in this post. As I was checking the sides using some deck planks, I saw that the forward ends of the planks would be unsupported behind the first bulkhead. There are pieces between the first bulkhead and the bow that the ends of the planks can rest on, but not along the sides behind it. I didn't see anything in the instructions to add supports for the plank ends, but I think I better add some. What have other builders of this kit done in this area of the deck? Here is the plank sheer across the open waist on the port side. I had to make a decision here how to cover the top of the hull planking in this area. I had a couple of options that came to mind. One was to make the plank sheer wider in this area to cover the opening with one piece. I was going to go this way, but then thought about the color scheme in this area, The plank sheer will be the green color like the rest of the inner bulwarks, but the outer section i thought would look funny if it was green too. I think the outer section will be better black, as the rest of the hull, with a groove cut into the outer edge. So, I decided to make these as two pieces so I can paint them separately. I won't be adding the outer piece until after the outer hull is planked and faired, as it will be proud of the hull by a bit. If anyone has an idea of how this area might have looked in the 1812 era, please let me know. The only other reference I have is the AOS book on one of the cross sections in the waist area, but that looks more like a trim piece than a waterway and plank sheer. In between this planking and other work on the hull I have been making gun carriages for the gun deck cannons. I have all but one of them made to a point that they are roughly in shape, but need some clean up and painting. Here is the jig I use to assemble them, which basically holds the sides in place on the rectangular axles. I add the end and inner pieces while the glue is still wet on the sides, then remove it from the jig before the glue totally dries so I don't glue it into the jig. When the glue is completely dry, I file the ends of the axles that stick out from the frame round for the wheels. The wheels are just pushed on for now and not glued on yet, and the axles still need to be trimmed once the wheels are in place. Here are the carriages made so far. I am finished with the bulwarks planking and will now start planking down to and around the gun deck gun ports.

I finished planking the port side outer bulwarks. I set a compass to the height of the bulwarks above the plank sheer and drew lines across the sections. In most cases, I had to remove about a half a plank width, so I carefully used a razor saw to cut off most of the excess, then sanded the tops fair so the main rail pieces will run smoothly. I thought at one point I would have to lower the sieves, but I had just enough clearance for them when sanded. I left the planks at the curve of the bow as is until after the starboard side outer bulwarks are planked. I was able to sand these bow planks smooth without any big gaps, so I am pretty happy with the planking so far. I was also happy that the sides of the spar deck gun ports all have pretty much the same shape and width. Here is how the port side came out. The starboard side is still just the inner support pieces in these pictures. Now to repeat on the starboard side, and hope that the two sides come out similar.

Thanks Evan for the information on the whaleboats. I'll not be adding them to my build then, but will add a gig or cutter like the article mentions.

Hi Mike. I didn't buy any nails with the pliers, but have used them on all kinds of nails that I have received with various kits, as well as regular sewing pins.

Check here: http://www.consumercrafts.com/store/details/catalog/jewelry-adhesives/GS100?CAWELAID=120132600000003290&gclid=CP3M5s6C0r4CFZJr7AodUyEA8w

I bought a pair of these and really like them: http://www.micromark.com/pin-insertion-plier,10735.html