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popeye2sea

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Posts posted by popeye2sea

  1. OK, so first let me say that I think the rigging plan for these topgallant and the royal halyards is incorrect.  There are tackles in this position on the actual ship however they are for the lower yard truss tackles.

    I actually do not remember how the halyards run on the ship.  I will take a look and report back.

     

    That being said, if you are going to stay with the plan I would temporarily position a line that runs from the sheave hole on the mast to the belaying pin on the pin rail where it will belay.  Mark the position where it crosses the top.  That is where I would put the "B" block so that the tackle ends up in line with the lead of the halyard.  You may have to drill a hole in the top so that you can fasten the block.  You will end up with the topgallant halyard coming down to one side of the mast and the royal halyard coming down on the other.  You should lead the fore halyards opposite to the main halyards.  In other words if the fore topgallant leads to starboard then the main topgallant will lead to port. 

     

    BTW, the "B" block is a single block with a becket.  The becket is that second loop on the block.  It takes the standing part of the tackle fall.

     

    Regards,

     

  2. It may help with the tensioning if you install the crows feet as all one piece instead of several separate legs.  Start at one of the center holes in the top run the line down through the first hole in the euphroe the back up to the hole next to the first then back down through the second hole in the euphroe and up on the other side to the next hole in the top.  Continue to alternate left to right until all the holes are filled.  When you pass the rope through the top make sure your line passes over the rim of the top on its way to the euphroe.  That way all the segments between the holes will be hidden underneath the top.  You can then make adjustments prior to securing the crows foot line so that the euphroe is centered over the stay.  The final tensioning will be done using the tackle from the euphroe to the stay.

     

    Regards

  3. I believe that in the late 16th century they would rigged as follows:

    The futtock staves are seized outboard of the lower shrouds at a distance below the top equal to the height of the mast head above the top.  Futtock staves go the full width of the lower shrouds.

    The futtock shrouds are either hooked or seized into the bottom of the futtock plates that strop the deadeyes.

    The futtock shrouds lead down and pass around the futtock stave and are then seized to the lower stay below the stave.

    Catharpins are fitted between the port and starboard futtock staves in order to bowse in the lower shrouds and keep them from being pulled outwards by the futtock shrouds. Only the lower shrouds that have futtocks attached are catharpined.

     

    If you fit catharpins on your model, do them first before you fit the futtock shrouds.

     

    Regards,

  4. I'm sure both Constitution and Victory have a team of shipwrights responsible for the maintenance and upkeep of their respective ships and are knowledgeable in the construction of blocks and deadeyes.  You may want to contact them for advice.  There are other shipwrights that have worked on the various replica ships afloat that could be contacted also.

     

    Regards,

  5. I love my wife dearly but she seems to be a walking entropy engine.  She can walk through a room and things will appear or disappear on whatever horizontal surface strikes her need at the moment.  At some point we get the re-arrangement a-la Derek's post above at which point I will be able to find nothing.

     

    As a result I am super diligent about scooping up tools and things that she has borrowed after she has used them.

     

    Regards,

  6. Other than the minimum required ballast that would not be removed.  The cargo itself becomes the ballast.  You can look at the ship during or after the ship is loaded to see what her draft and trim is.  A ship would normally be trimmed so that she was a little heavier aft.  If more ballast is necessary after the ship is loaded you could always add some and/or shift cargo around to provide the proper trim.  When the cargo was off loaded the ship would take on a new cargo (hence, not much change to ballast requirements) or if returning empty (this was called sailing in ballast) additional ballast my be loaded to stabilize the vessel.  

  7. Knot is a rather generic term.  In reality very few actual knots are employed in rigging a ship.  The most common knot being the reef knot: the name tells you its usage.  Knots were also used to create a knob on the end of a line: Matthew Walkers knot and the Wall and Crown knot for lanyards, man ropes and tack lines, etc.

    Most rigging was accomplished with hitches, bends, splices, seizings, and lashings.  All of which can be used to advantage in models.

     

    Regards, 

  8. Basically , any yard that has to traverse up and down its mast requires a parrel or truss parrel arrangement to facilitate the movement.  When the main and fore yards were no longer lowered for reefing sails they no longer required parrels and a truss was substituted making them essentially fixed in position (other than bracing round).  The crojack yard on the mizzens only function is to spread the foot of the mizzen top sail so it too does not require a parrel.

     

    Occasionally, an upper sail: royals, skysails, moonrakers, etc., was set 'flying'. Meaning it was hoisted aloft by its halyard from the deck without parrels, trusses or lifts.

     

    Regards,

  9. In the History Buffs video it mentions that HMS Surprise was sent after USS Norfolk in the Pacific.  This is incorrect. The ship that Surprise was sent after was the USS Essex, Captain David Porter commanding. If you ever want to read about that fascinating voyage check out the book by Robert Booth, Mad for Glory- A Heart of Darkness in the War of 1812.

     

    Regards,

  10. Nice work on the carriages. I particularly like the way you did the carriage bolts.  Much less time consuming and fiddly than the way I did mine.  Wish I had thought of that.

     

    IMO the molded notches for the trunnions sit a bit too high and the pegs/pins for the attachment points for the cap squares are too large.  The cap squares are the the parts that hold the gun barrel to the carriage. They fit over the trunnions.  One end hinges on one of the pegs the other is fastened with a through pin.

     

    Regards,

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