Blue Ensign

I'm sure you will enjoy the Alert kit Phil, it has a lot to offer both novice and kit basher, and Chris's decision to upgrade the guns in the newer editions, goes a long way to improve the basic kit. I look forward to seeing your approach. Cheers, B.E.

Cheers Alan, I've no immediate pressure to complete the guns so I can ponder the subject a while longer.🙂 Post 38 Swivel guns I had started making the Swivel gun pedestals but have side stepped to look at the Swivel guns and their ‘iron’ yolks that fit into the posts. For the Swivels I am using RB 15mm Brass guns which are spot on for scale. 3558 They do need a little fettling because for some odd reason the trunnion hole doesn’t go all the way through the Barrels, but at least only completing the drilling is involved. 3560 The button also has to be removed and the gun drilled to take the tiller. 3561 A mornings work on the little Miller and it’s all done. 3568 The kit provides neat photo etched Swivel Gun yolks which save a lot of time fiddling around making these small fittings, a boon to those modellers less inclined to indulge in habitual kit bashing. The photo shows a mock-up of one of the early Resin Swivel guns. However, I decided to make my own yolks using the method I used on my Pegasus build. 3564 As with the last time I made these items they were formed from etched brass hooks but this time I silver soldered the two halves to form the yolk. 3570 The wip RB gun alongside the Resin Kit version. 3573 I do prefer the crispness of a brass gun, and personally I don’t think you can beat the look of a chemically blackened gun. With the Yolks made I can now return to looking at the posts and drill out to take the mounting. B.E. 21/11/2019

An interesting project, and great approach to the start, Christian. I look forward to seeing her progress. B.E.

The smallest guns I have rigged were on my 1:150 scale Heller French 74 build. The carriages were around 8mm long. It is probably feasible to add the Breeching ropes if desired, but the side tackles are very tiny and 'false' representations are the way to go, I suppose it depends on how much you wish to torture yourself. 😉 I used a combination of very fine wire and tiny sections of styrene for the blocks. B.E.

Hi Alan, The Cap Squares that retain the gun trunnions on the carriage are hinged and secured at the forward end by a pin thro' a bolt over which the Cap Square fits. The pin has a short chain attached which is secured to the carriage side. You can see the arrangement here on one of the Quarterdeck 12 pounders on Victory. Cheers, B.E.

Post 37 Completing the Guns This is now the time to secure the gun barrels to the carriages using the Cap squares. These are supplied as etched items and do have the fold lines and hole points marked to take the retaining bolt and Cap square hinge. 0020(2) In preparing the Cap squares I use a trunnion bar as a jig to aid the folding process. 0019(2) Once formed the holes are drilled thro’ and the ends trimmed a little to better fit the carriage. 0029(2) The Cap squares are quite fragile with weakness at the bend points; there are only a couple of spares so careful handling is required. Fitting Cap Squares is a tedious business; I use ca to secure to the top of the carriage and then drill thro’ to take the retaining bolt and hinge. 3521(2) These little additions are not referred to in the instructions, but I like to add them. 3531(2) I use tweaked etched eyes from some stuff I have lying about and copper eye pins. Once in place these help to better secure the Cap Squares. 0075 Still thinking about adding the bolt pins and chains to the carriages as I did with Cheerful. The smallest chain I have is 48 links to the inch which may be a tad over scale. I’ll leave the guns for now and go back to a little woodwork. B.E. 18/11/2019

Hi Jim, thanks for looking in. This is my approach to metal blackening. My Blackening Kit 1) I first scrub the guns in water with washing up liquid using an old toothbrush. 2) Rinse the guns in de-ionised water. 3) Soak the guns in the Acid Dip for a couple of minutes, and then rinse in the Neutralising fluid, but I find the de-ionised water is just as good. 4) Immerse in the blackening fluid (which I dilute with de-ionised water by around sixty percent) until the guns are black. 5) Rinse again. 6) Dry using a hair dryer on full heat. 7) Buff the guns using a soft paintbrush to check the coverage. Because I have used ca to fix the Monograms invariably this will show up, requiring scraping away in places and the careful use of acetone to re-clean the area. Acetone dissolves ca so great care must be taken not to lift the Monograms. 9) I re-dipped the Alert guns several times until I got the finish I was after. 10) With an even black surface I used Humbrol Matt Cote thinned a little with White Spirit to improve the flow, to paint over the guns. I don't always coat the guns, I didn't with the guns on my Cheerful build, but they were larger and handling was easier with less risk of marring the surface. Hope this helps. B.E. 18/11/2019

You may find this little book very useful for modelling the 1:180 Airfix Victory. HMS Victory(Classic Ships No 1: Their History and how to model them) Noel C L Hackney. It specifically relates to improving and rigging this particular kit and dates from the 1970’s. Second hand copies can be obtained very cheaply, I see there is one on Abe Books for the price of £1.98 at present. Well worth a punt😊 Cheers, B.E.

Post 36 Preparing the Guns. I have replaced the kit provided guns with RB Brass versions. To these the Royal Monograms (Syren) and representations of the vent holes are added. The Monograms are exceptionally fragile items and there is quite a high attrition rate. Even so once stuck they will withstand the acid dip and the blackening fluid. 0003 I used the smallest of the Syren Monograms. Once the gun is thoroughly cleaned the Monograms and vents were added. A tiny spot of thick ca is applied to the gun and the monogram gently pressed into place. 0044 This flash shot shows up the Monograms but is not a true reflection of the colour. 0039(2) This shot more closely reflects the colour. It takes several re-dips following cleaning off any residual ca to get the desired finish, and from this point plastic gloves are worn when handling the guns. 3497(2) I don’t buff the surface but seal it using slightly thinned Humbrol Matt Cote, this both protects and deepens the colour a little. So, here’s the completed set. 3500 3503 3505 3506 3501(2) 3498 It has taken about five days’ work to reach this point, but I consider taking extra time with the guns is well worth the effort. On an open decked vessel such as a cutter they are a major feature and very exposed to view. In my next post I will be covering the combining of guns and carriages and adding the fine detail. B.E. 16/11/2019

Post 35 Perhaps the most eye-catching deck fitting on a cutter is the Windlass and Carrick bitts. I rather like making up these parts and Chris has provided in the kit the makings for a good set. The laser cut wooden parts are cleanly cut and have a good surface for painting. The kit provides a resin windlass spindle which is nicely formed and requiring very little clean up. It is also a good match for scale against the Alert Book drawings. Unlike wooden versions where the option is to varnish or paint, paint is the only option. If it is to be painted red, as often represented on models, no problem, otherwise getting a good colour mix is the main issue. 3479 I wasn’t too keen on the suggested dark wood colour, but not quite sure what I’m after; perhaps a sort of washed out salt stained wood colour that will provide a contrast to the Carrick bits (Red) and other woodwork. Fiddling around with paint mixes is the only way to go. 3478 The final addition to the Carrick Bitts are the straps that secure the cheeks to the Bitts. Nice brass etched well scaled items are provided. 3476 One addition that can be reproduced are representations of the iron hoops at the outer ends of the warping heads on the Windlass. These are made from my old standby of heat shrink tubing. Jeer and Topsail Bitts This is the remaining significant centre line deck fitting. 3460 Cleanly cut, easy to assemble parts with a resin windlass complete with pawl drums. 3461 The only extra which may be considered are tiny pawls, but they are very tiny. Pumps In the kit the elm tree pump casings are represented by some 4mm dowel into which the multi-part pe Brake handle mechanism is glued. 3459 Strictly speaking the casing should be octagonal in section and I prefer to make mine from square section Boxwood. 3467 One of the things to note when fitting these to the deck is that they are not vertical but angle outwards very slightly. 3471 Not too sure from the kit instructions how high above deck the pump casings should stand. The instructions indicate gluing the pump handle assembly into 40mm long dowel but doesn’t elaborate further. Taking my guide from the Alert book I have settled on a length of 14mm above deck. 3466 To finish the pumps, I added the discharge ports and the iron bands top and bottom. Coming together now, but still too early to fix these deck fittings. 3483 3485 3490 Back to the guns I think. B.E 11/11/2019

Post 34 Creating a Bowsprit For this I am using 6mm square stock to produce a spar 275mm in length. The square section is marked with tape as is the outer end. There is a formula in Steel based on Quarters along the length from the square section forward. 1st Q 2ND Q 3RD Q Outer end 60/61 11/12 4/5 5/9 5.90mm 5.5mm 4.8mm 3.3mm 3441 These stations are marked on a card for checking the diameters as the tapering progresses. Before turning on the lathe the square edges are taken off using a ‘V’ jig. Various grades of sandpaper are used to produce the taper. 3445 With the sprit completed, additional fid holes are drilled thro’ the square section. 3456 This is a good time to fix the iron hoop to support the Bowsprit. A nicely presented etched item complete with square bolt plates. 3447 Iron fids have replaced the simplified kit arrangement, they will be trimmed on final fitting. 3450 The square section has come in at 5.75mm but I did in the end take a shave off the inner sides of the bitts, which is not apparent to the naked eye. 3449(2) My eye tells me that it passes muster so the set up can now be put aside for the present. B.E. 09/11/2019

Thanks Dave, they do have prints of Prince, they are sold via a third party company. I will message you the details tomorrow. Regards, Maurice

I'm using the 1794 edition Dirk, the base source of almost every modern writer you can think of. He's writing some 17 years after the Alert time, and we all know how exceeding slow the Admiralty was to effect any significant changes, at least until the end of the Napoleonic Wars. If anything the scantlings of timbers and spars and rope work tended to decrease slightly over the 18th c, as evidenced by the various tables included in Lees but none of that is likely to affect my scale arrangements on Alert and I doubt that the quarter proportions given in Steel varied much over the period. In dealing with a kit like this it just needs to look right to the eye, and getting to that point given the constrictions of the provided parts is my main concern at present..🙂 Cheers, B.E.

Thanks Gregory, I've not seen that arrangement before. The Bowsprit on Alert should have a series of fid holes along the square section to allow for movement, and that the fids fit thro' both bitt and Bowsprit to fix the position. I suspect in the case of the Alert model that it is there as a simplification for the purpose as you describe , but the whole set up of the Bowsprit Step is a simplification to aid the modeller. Regards, B.E.

Cheers Guys, now a bit of a set back. Post 33 Pawl Bitt pins (Bowsprit Step) I have been working on the Bowsprit Step but have hit a problem regarding the dimensions of the Bowsprit which I need to resolve before I can move on. You can’t really consider the Bowsprit Step without looking at the fit of the Bowsprit. There is a simplification on the kit part in that the iron fids used to fix and retain the Bowsprit heel are represented by solid wood top and bottom, formed by the square cut-out for the Bowsprit heel. There is a fid hole and fid indicated in the Bowsprit but this sits forward of the Bitt pins, which makes little sense. 3410(2) I removed the top bar and drilled thro’ to take the ‘iron’ fid. A hole below this was drilled to take the retaining fid for the Bowsprit heel which has a corresponding hole drilled. The inboard squared end of the Bowsprit is shown as 6mm, reduced and squared from some 8mm ø dowel. My own preference is to use square stock, and round the outboard section on the lathe. Now I come to the problem: 6mm square stock will not fit between the step uprights whereas 5mm as shown in the above photo is a good fit. However, the dimensions given in the Alert Book are 18½” which equates to 7.3mm at scale, whereas 6mm is a perfect fit for the Alert book drawings. 3429 6mm stock laid over Alert book drawing at 1:64 scale Note: The Alert book quotes dimensions as relating to the cutter Pheasant which was slightly shorter than Alert and some 34 tons lighter. Her Bowsprit is given as 56’6” L x 18½” ø Pheasant capsized in the Channel in 1781, perhaps she was over sparred. When in doubt I always refer to Steel; For a 200-ton cutter (Alert was 183 tons) Steel gives a Bowsprit length of 64’ (304.8mm) with a 20” ø (7.93mm) By comparison the kit dimensions are a scale 275mm in length and 6mm at the heel (57¾’ and 15” diameter). 3418 3420 3422 The photo’s above show the 5mm square stock in place. Below I compare 6mm square stock. 3428 Without either thinning down the uprights or the 6mm stuff it just won’t fit. I am reluctant to thin down the bitts which look good for scale. However, the evidence of Steel is that the Bowsprit may have been even longer and certainly heavier at the heel. To thin down the 6mm stuff so it fits between the uprights, but leaving the depth the same, effectively makes it a rectangle rather than a square. 3432 Thinned down 6mm stuff to fit between the uprights 3433 3431 I can’t clearly see from the instruction photo’s what Chris did on the prototype to get the fit, whether he modified the mortise or reduced the heel or a combination of both. I can’t settle my mind on how to proceed so I have decided to make a Bowsprit using 6mm square stock using the taper formula given in Steel, the heel will then be reduced to fit between the bitts. I will then let my eye be the judge. B.E 08/11/2019

Post 32 A nice delivery arrived today. Whilst I was researching all things Alert, I was much taken by the painting by Joseph Marshall. 3402 When I found out that the Science Museum sold copies, I just had to have one. 3409(2) Can always find room for one more Naval print. B.E. 07/11/2019

Thanks for looking in Guy, and for your kind appreciation. Post 31 Bulwark attachments This is a good point in the build to deal with the iron work along the bulwarks and other stuff where the centre line fittings would get in the way. Ringbolts and eyebolts for the gun tackle. The kit provides brass pe etch items for the breeching rope ring bolts. All that is necessary is to fit the ring over the open bolt and close it up. However, the kit makes no reference to rigging the guns and if you use the kit tackle and intend rigging, it is wise to check that the intended Breeching rope fits thro’ the provided etch rings. 3381(2) My preferred option is to use Amati fine rings and eyebolts as per the centre example. I think it is appropriate and certainly more authentic at 1:64 scale to rig the guns with breeching ropes and side tackles, and I intend to do so. The main concern is to get the combination and blocks looking right with the carriage. The Breeching rope is 4¼” circ; equating to 0.54mm ø at scale I will use Syren 0.6mm ø line which provides the right visual contrast to the finer tackle lines. I tend to use slightly undersized tackle lines blocks and hooks. There should also be eyebolts to take the side tackle hooks; in the Alert book drawings these are secured to the face of the shot garlands fitted to the bulwark. Shot Garlands These are neat laser cut items and the shot (2mm ø) is also provided. My immediate thought was that the provided shot looked at tad overscale. Naturally I couldn’t resist trying the ball for fit in the muzzle and not surprisingly it doesn’t. The bore for a six pounder is given as 3.675” (how did they measure that close with the technology they had at the time) with a 3½” ø ball. At scale the bore works out at 1.46 mm. and the model gun is 1.56mm; 1.50mm ø shot it is then. 3380(2) This did mean I had to modify the Garlands to take the smaller shot. On the left, 2mm shot; on the right, 1.5mm shot. 3384 Tricky little items to fit I used a guide to get the right height. 3399 The ring bolts for the Breeching ropes are not fixed at this time, they will be attached to the ropes before gluing to the bulwarks. While I was looking at the shot garlands and their position along the bulwarks, I became aware of differences between the kit and the Alert book drawings. There is a much greater spacing between the third and fourth ports from aft on the book drawings, (C2/1) which appears between the fourth and fifth from aft in the kit. The kit follows the arrangement on the Admiralty drawings. The book deck plan drawing(C2/1) shows a longer garland accommodating 11 balls. On the Admiralty plan there are two smaller garlands which seems more logical as a continuous rack would be over eight feet in length. The kit provided garland sits centrally within the greater space which is relevant because as noted earlier the side tackle eyebolts are fixed to the garlands. 3395 I added two shorter Garlands within the space which maintains the continuity of the side tackle arrangements. 3392(2) Not sorry to see the end of this fiddley little exercise. Movin’ on. B.E. 06/11/2019

It’s a pleasure to follow your builds Nils, you choose such interesting subjects and apply such innovative skills, great job.👍 B.E.

Thanks, Nils and Dirk, once they've been adorned with Chuck's little Royal monograms, and blackened I think they'll look spot on. 🙂 Post 30 - Bits and pieces. The Rudder coat If I am to fit one of these it is best done whilst I can still invert the hull free of all the deck fittings. I fitted one to Pegasus and I thought one would be appropriate for Alert. I am thinking of water constantly entering the space below the platform deck that would be inevitable without one. These are tricky little additions to visualise and there is an element of trial and error involved in their making. This is a shot of the Rudder coat on Victory. Not of a particularly aesthetic appearance they attach around the rudder head below the counter, and spread out to cover the rudder port, whilst retaining an element of bagginess to allow the rudder movement. I make mine from fine handkerchief cotton, the initial pattern is sort of light bulb shaped and having drawn out the pattern the edges are sealed with pva to avoid fraying when cutting out. The difficult part is building in an element of ‘bag’, as the natural inclination is for the coat to cling too tightly to the counter. I try to get around this by using cotton wool to fill out the coat before I seal it down. I remember thinking when I was building Cheerful that those little fibre Horseshoe plates supplied by Chuck may come in useful when fitting a rudder coat to secure the edges to the counter. Now is the time to find out. 3321 Stage one is to glue the horseshoe to the outer edges of the coat, whilst pulling up the centre to provide some bag. Stage two is to use strands of cotton wool to partly fill out the bag. 3323 Stage three is to glue the assembly thus far to the counter. Once set one side of the bag is glued to the rudder head. 3326(2) The bag is then carefully manipulated adding further strands of cotton wool, before gluing the other side to the rudder head. Any excess of cotton is painted with diluted pva, and when dried a scalpel blade is used to trim the edges on the rudder head. 3337 3333 3329 The coat can then be painted with diluted black paint to represent the tarred surface. Where there’s a rudder coat there is a helm coat, I made mine using microporous tape, useful stuff where small areas of tarred canvas are required. 3357 The photo also shows the Transom Knees, and Mizen Mast Steps. The kit provides these together with brass etched brackets. The items are well shaped and represent a combined step to the counter deck and support for the Mizen Mast. 3354(2) I slightly modified the bracket to suit a 3mm ø Mizen mast. According to the detail in the Alert Book, the mast is given as 37’ 2” height with an 8”ø This equates to a scale 177mm length with a 3.1mm ø I will make the mast and store it on the deck. Scuppers. To scupper or not to scupper No scuppers are shown on any of the drawings in the Alert book, and there is only a passing mention of them in the narrative relating to the deck pumps. Likewise, they are not included as a feature in the kit. The only model I have seen showing Alert with scuppers is a beautiful 1:48 scale scratch-built version completed by Daveyjones back in 2014; that really is a very fine model, check it out in the Gallery. I think I will defer the decision for while even tho’ logic tells me that even a low freeboard boat such As Alert would have them. B.E. 03/11/2019

Thank you Dirk, Rusty, and Jim. 🙂 Post 29 Today I received the replacement ordnance for Alert. 3352 3349 3350 3351 These are 29mm Brass guns from RB Models, Poland, and represent good value at £10.00 delivered. The carriages are the kit provided ones. I can now move onto completing the guns. B.E. 31/10/2019

Post 28 Hatches Main Hatch The kit provides a quick and easy method of assembly with pre- cut joints for the Head ledges and coamings, and pe brass gratings. A simple arrangement, and this is the first kit I have come across with brass etched gratings. A good idea perhaps at smaller scales but for me wooden gratings look better and are perfectly feasible at 1:64. The Head ledges lack any round up, and the brass gratings also lack the cut-outs to allow passage of the anchor cables, but I suppose the brass ones could be carefully modified. 3294 My approach is to use the brass grating as a template to form a Boxwood version, and then build the head ledges and coamings around that, also in Boxwood. Altho’ the framing will be painted the Boxwood will provide a far better surface to take the paint. 3316 For the Gratings I am using Chuck’s (Syren) Cambered Boxwood strips and grating jig. These are a good match for scale and take all the pain out of grating construction. Fore Hatch 3315 I also adopted the same approach to the Fore hatch and replaced the kit gratings with wooden versions, and included the ladder leading down to the lower deck. The Bread Room scuttle This is represented in the kit by a solid cover whereas the Alert book drawings show it as a grating. On my kit the laser cut lid was a poor fit to the provided frame and I discarded both. 3308 Because I like gratings better than covers, I went with a grating. This grating is not one of Chuck’s, but a temporary fitting until fresh supplies arrive. 3298 3299 3302 3304(2) 3313 Having made a few fittings, I will now return to do a few other necessary jobs on the hull, scuppers, ring bolts for the bulwarks, and a rudder coat come to mind. B.E 30/10/2019

Cheers Dirk, and thanks for looking in Ricky, glad you like it. Post 27 Main Companion way The style has been taken from the Alert book drawings and is the traditional sliding canopy form. It fits well on the 1:64 scale drawing in the book. The head ledges have been represented and the pre-formed parts fit together well. That said there are a few enhancements that can be made to improve the look of the item. The canopy is a tad thick and could stand some thinning down and the fixed part of the canopy has a slight overhang whereas it should really sit in a recess around the head ledges and coaming. 3244 I replaced the sliding canopy with some thinner Boxwood sheet and added a slight round up to the head ledges, which allows for a corresponding curve in the canopy. 3269 I added the runners to the sides so the canopy roof can move to the open position. 3247 I had early in the build installed a lower deck, and a ladder was constructed which can be seen below the open canopy. This is simply to give depth to the model and the impression that it is more complete than it is. 3272 Construction completed, cleaning up and painting now follows. The wood used for the laser cut parts is quite soft and grainy, this is not unusual in kits and is down to cost. 3286(2) I find it difficult to get a good finish even with multiple coats and fine sanding. 3282 3281(2) B.E. 28/10/2019

Post 26 Companionways and hatches I will start with the Companion to the Captain’s Cabin, effectively a hinged sky light. This is reproduced in the kit as a brass etched item, with the coamings and head ledges pre-formed in a wood material. These are shaped to reflect the proper joints rather than a simple edge join. The item goes together very well and it is a straightforward assembly particularly for the novice builder. The kit version is as per the drawings in the Goodwin Alert book. A boxy affair with a flat top and glazed square lights. A slight puzzlement is that the kit version has 42 lights contained within the frame whereas the book drawing has 30 lights, which for me looks better, less like a grating. There seems to be as many variations of the Skylight design fitted to Alert as there are models and paintings. Within the Alert book there is a contemporary painting of a model dated 1775 showing a clerestory style skylight. The contemporary model of Hawke (circa 1777) shows the familiar pitched roof glazed sides version. The modern Cole model of Alert has a glazed top but longer, and in a different position. The Irving Kingman model also has a version of the pitched roof style of skylight. I made up the kit version but I tweaked the thickness of the framing to allow for the skylight to sit in a recess rather than just positioned atop the Head ledges and coamings. 3242 Using micro brass tubing I added hinges to allow opening of the light. My preference is for something slightly more interesting than the kit provided item, so I opted for the clerestory style as shown in the painting of the model of ‘Alert.’ The oil painting by Joseph Marshall 1775. The notation in the Goodwin Alert book reads:- An oil painting of the Alert cutter model dated 1775. Various features comply exactly to the modified draught of the Rattlesnake used for the 1777 Alert. These include the squared gunports, the five shroud deadeyes and three backstays chain plates. The painting formed part of the George111 Collection of ship model paintings. This is at variance to the notation in The Science Museum:- who hold the painting, and gives the date as 1755. Perspective view, possibly drawn to illustrate an experimental design rather than an actual plan. a model is known to have been built from design of Sir J Acworth d.1749. - Not part of the series of ship model paintings commissioned by King George III. - Ship is cutter, 6th Rate; eight were in service 1753-1754 Interesting to note that the table on which the model sits, does say ‘Alert’. The paired stern quarter view painting Regardless of these descriptions, the model as painted does look very close in design to the Alert I am modelling. Still I digress. 3241 This is the first attempt of creating the skylight using a bit of Boxwood scrap. My prime concern was getting the scale looking right as I don’t have specific dimensions, but it looks ok to my eye. 3232(2) A view as per Joseph Marshall’s painting. B.E. 26/10/2019

Post 25 Guns Part 2 Moving onto the carriages; The carriage design has been taken from the Alert book and is a good representation for shape. Each carriage consists of five main parts plus the wheels. Cleaning up the parts consists of a light sanding of the laser burn but be careful with the axle pieces they are quite fragile. 3167 I found the carriages easy to assemble, more so than many other examples I have done in the past. I didn’t even need to make a holding jig, just used a barrel to ensure squareness of the setup before the glue dried. There are pre-drilled holes to take the two eye/ring bolts, and the Transverse bolt which spans the two carriage cheeks. 3182(2) The eyebolts and transverse bolt are part of a pe set, but for me the eyebolts don’t work that well looking too chunky for the carriage cheek. 3168 My own preference is to use Amati fine copper eyebolts and rings for carriage fittings at this scale, and I have included additional eyebolts, or hoops as they properly are called, and the ring to carry the breeching rope. 3172(2) Some extra effort is required to make up and blacken twelve sets of ring bolts, and five eyebolts per carriage, but for me it’s worth it. 3170(2) Once assembled a coat of paint is applied and the transverse bolt is blackened and glued into place. 3205 The next somewhat tedious job is to attach all the iron work to the carriages. A puzzling feature for me are the square cut holes in the wheels (trucks) to fit over the axletrees. I expect axletrees to be square but the ends being rounded to fit the wheels. 3009(2) Here the Alert laser set is overlaid with a Syren set, the axle holes are round, and a slight rounding of the axletree allows for fitting. It makes sense to me that the wheel hole is round and the axletree is then carefully rounded to give a good fit. Never mind, for the purpose of the exercise I went with the kit arrangement. 3207 I added the wheel bolts or impressions of them by the simple expediency of marking them using a sharply pointed 9H pencil. On my kit at least the axletree and wheel mortices were not universally a good fit, and I will have to use a fine filler to rectify the issue. This is as far as I am going with the guns at present, there is still a fair bit of fettling to do, and I need to decide on the barrels. B.E. 23/10/2019

Thanks Steve, I must admit to looking at the later pics and thinking 'what rubbish planking'.🙄 It is my first attempt at clinker, and I think I could improve on the technique were I to tackle it again, a task I have little enthusiasm for. Still it doesn't look too bad to my eye from 12" or so, but then my eyesight is not what it was.🙁 I always hope the bashing I do on these kits does provide a few ideas for those following on, and doesn't add to their frustration. Cheers, B.E.